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Thanks guys, that means a lot coming from you-all, DynoDave, hope your damage was minimal from the fire, especially the "fine Corinthian leather" in the DOBA.
Last edited by stuartswede; 02-23-2021 at 06:14 AM.
I got tired of looking at the old tailpipe hanging under the car, so after a half hour and 3 cutoff wheels, I had it out. Never realized what an ugly octopus it was. I mocked up my new 3 inch cat-back side by side, and looks pretty good. I think it will fit nicely. My first mate Nuc appears in the upper part of the pic (named after nuclear power or nuclear weapons), he is a real camera hound! He told me he has first dibs on shotgun for our test drive.
Looks like it will fit over the axle too.
Any comments or experience with this setup?
This is a cool build, have you thought of adding the Corvette servo to that 700R4? Would be super easy while it’s out, that is if the trans shop didn’t already add one. That is one of my projects this year.
Thanks RD, I just looked up the Corvette servo and did not realize the big performance upgrade it brought with it. I am checking with my shop now, but if they didn't add it, I certainly will. Thanks for the tip.
You bet, there are a few other options for the servo like the sonnax or superior IIRC that is more aggressive but it all depends what you are looking for.
I got mine here but I’ve also heard many guys like Dana at Probuilt, I liked the drop in style fully assembled.
Looks like it will fit over the axle too.
Any comments or experience with this setup?[/QUOTE]
My Magnaflow system rear exhaust section hangs exactly like the picture you posted. I was convinced that it would contact the cross member and make noise on the road. However, I can tell you that I have not had a single issue with the setup.
Resipsa, thanks for the input, good to know. I was worried of that very thing, not much clearance there and it doesn't align with the hanger location exactly. Not a big problem, we can rebuild him, we have the technology!
This is a great site! Bravo to the webmaster! Would like to know who that is. I have greatly benefited from the huge cross section of support, and I just noticed that I am 1 view away from 1000 views in less than 3 weeks! UN-believable!
Last edited by stuartswede; 02-26-2021 at 07:00 PM.
Looking at my rear end in the last post, it is horrendous! Last few days spent attempting to clean up my act. Decided to go all out. Ordered new springs, control arm bushings, rotors, calipers and brake lines, shocks and sway bar too. Got the old springs out a few day ago.
The sway bar end link rubber was toast EEEW Control arm bushings, one down one to go Coming attractions! I have carpet, new steering wheel, shift **** and a new high volume fuel pump but will be procuring all the rest. Yes the windshield is cracked. Reminds me to order the removal tools. The rubber on this stop was hanging by a band-aid of rubber ligament. I tried to order a new one to no avail so I cleaned up the bracket and wire wheeled the rubber to remove the crappy oxidized layer, then used black RTV to reattach the rubber, better than new! Funny side note, bet I have spent over a hundred hours on this bench wheel, the last month or so, sprucing up engine and body fasteners and parts. It has been a true warrior, but I think it is time to bury it with it's fathers and ordain a new king.
I have been meaning to ask the site what color is the under carriage brackets and sheet metal? It looks like a grey with a blueish tinge. I searched all the threads but came up with nothing. Then I had set out an empty Blue Rhino tank to return to the convenience store and that was it! Does anyone have paint code or anything for that color? Anything is an improvement!
I have been sanding and wire wheeling this area for several days. Looking good!
I was using my ball joint tool to remove and install control arm bushings. Removal was a lot easier than installation. This picture is an install. Needed the sockets to keep the control arm from collapsing. I probably should have seeked sage advise, but made it through OK. Funny, I had watched a video where the guy brought his parts to a machine shop to do the work for 20 bucks. I should have done the same. Live and learn. Springs and control arms in. Passenger side
Last edited by stuartswede; 02-27-2021 at 08:07 PM.
I noticed that you can see parts of the cross member when following a 3rd gen, so I used up the rest of my engine gold color to paint the lower cross member. Peter-peter pumpkin is neater! Remember this view from earlier post? Now looks like this! Still waiting on sway bar, shocks and pads. Hold your breath.
Last edited by stuartswede; 02-27-2021 at 07:46 PM.
I am trying to install my new rear calipers, and I need some help. I have thoroughly researched this site and world wide web for the last 3 hours, only found a partial answer. This is regarding the damper clips. My calipers came with this type: Surely this is crappy design, there is only relief in my piston for one wire not 2, this would create a point load on the pad, with severe offset of the piston face with the pad surface.
Then I found this one online, with no relief for the wire in the piston at all. Am I suffering a GCE?
Last edited by stuartswede; 02-28-2021 at 06:24 PM.
Got the rear calipers and pads installed after I squared away the damper question. I did not use the piston dampers above. The new rear pads had their own dampers permanently attached.
And this picture was inspiration to me
I was having trouble pressure washing under the car with my long pressure wand, especially in the tunnel area
So I ordered one of these Can't wait to get back at it!
New parts are piling up like chord wood.
If you squint your eyes you can see it installed and bled out. Old sway bar ready for new paint. Tribute to American steel and innovation. Ready for new life. Painted in "Forged Steel Silver"
No, thank you. It's the encouraging responses that are like the icing on the cake for this project, reassurance that I am far from alone in this expensive obsession. Finally got all my pressure washing done on the undercarriage, That short gun worked great. Nice to get rid of that greasy, oily nasty plastic! Got my new battery tray installed yesterday as well. Jumping up and down on it resulted in no plastic deformation. The next big thing!
You should never begin a sentence with "so". So my old drop light needed replacing, I went looking for an LED drop light, then saw this one that would fit into a standard light-bulb socket. This sucker is bad a$$, adjustable flaps, and so bright, the sun has to turn away. Reminds me of the alien eye from War of the worlds. The 3 panels are adjustable, way more lumens than I will ever need. Just need to incorporate the hook from my old drop-light. Also got a couple of these for my "open concept" garage, tired of stepping on extension cords. These are really nice. Has a 3 outlet end built in. 14 AWG. Bushings for rear sway bar came today along with rear shocks and a bunch of other stuff. Me and the UPS, Amazon, and USPS guys are on a first name basis! In fact this is only 75% of the boxes that came in the last 2 days! I am an engineer, but I have become a purchasing agent. I always hated the plethora of rubber hoses in the engine bay of my car. Several prominent ones were for the AIR system. I am replacing those with tubing. I thought that the nipple on the check valve was half inch, like the tubing going from the air valve to the cat, but the check valves are actually 11/16 or .6875. I had bought half inch 90 degree compression fittings to transition from the check valves to my new tubing, but now they won't work.
I looked for a suitable transition adapter to no avail, and simply butt welded the check valve to one end of the 90 degree fitting. After much re-welding and grinding, fixing blowouts, the check valve wall is << less than the wall of the compression fitting, I think I have a workable solution. I mocked up a short piece of half inch tubing to see how it would look. I am happy with results.
Dang I really want to drive this car! I feel for you Yankees that can't get your chariots out of hibernation.
Last edited by stuartswede; 03-03-2021 at 07:43 PM.
Thanks scooter, sounds better, but ignorance is bliss. I thought about brazing, but didn't have tight fitting adapters. I felt like I had to do with what I had on hand.
Just wanted to share with you about a company I just came across for brake lines. When I pulled my car out of my parents garage (storage), I sent it to a mechanic that was referred to me. Just to give it a look over and get it safe to drive. Long story short a** broke my hard brake line on the rear back brake. I finally found it at www.sstubes.com
I realize you completed the rear, but again just wanted to share this company with you if you need anything for the the rest of the brake system.
Also, what modifications did you make with that blast gun? And what type of media?
I boycotted Amazon. But yeah, that's some cool stuff there. Just makes me all the more looking forward to get mine on the road.
I'm thinking a couple more months...
(That thing on the distributor cap is nylon tubing for the temporary oil pressure gauge I'm using for tha cam break-in)
Thanks for the link 1985, I checked out the site and looks real helpful. I did just notice a dent on my rear driver side brake line which is solid tube all the way to the caliper. Looks like a rock or something hit it and it looks like it is pinched closed, I was able to pass brake cleaner thru it, but may replace it just to be safe.
For the sandblast gun, here is the link I watched
However, I did not remove the roll pin on the valve, just drilled it all in place. You remove the 2 small allen screws holding the hopper, and drill the plastic and the valve/housing but keep the hole just smaller than the oring gland. My valve does work, unlike the guy in the video. I was impressed with the performance of the gun after opening up the hole. I am using the sandbox sand from Lowes.
Last edited by stuartswede; 03-04-2021 at 01:06 PM.
Picture perfect engine bay TL, great inspiration for me. My new booster is due today! Notice you have no AC, guess you don't need in Colorado. It is indispensable here in the tropics.
I hate having to use Amazon too, but have been spoiled for 5 or 6 years with their effective service, long before their political views became known. I will probably sever ties after my project is done.
Scooter,
I am using aluminum tubing for the air system, and only a short piece of rubber at the valve. I plan on all new fuel lines too, at least in the engine bay. I also got a new higher flowing fuel pump, the 255 LPH I think it was. One of the threads said it would help at WOT.
I know exactly what you mean. I was scared I might separate a socket from the wire but luckily I didn't. I actually bought two sets of sleeves one had bigger circumference but I cant remember where I got em now.
TL, the compressor and hoses probably look mint like all the rest. That is one thing I am looking forward to is not having to "Fast Orange" my hands every 15 minutes while working on this car. I will finally have time to do house-keeping and keep it pristine.
Today was spent installing the rear shocks and sway bar. Sway bar took a little longer than expected
DOH!!! That doesn't look right.
Had to flip it end for end
Good ole drywall buckets were perfect height for temporary supports, for a one-man (can I say man?) operation. My pronoun is he, he-he. Thats more like it!! So with shocks and sway bar, just waiting for a couple of brake lines and the rear end is looking nice!
With the grimy fingerprints cleaned off, one day closer to liftoff! BTW, after reading one thread about chassis stiffness, I ordered the solid bar rear control arms and cross member. Will update with photos when I get them. I meant to ask about the front strut tower bar, is that really beneficial?
Last edited by stuartswede; 03-04-2021 at 06:10 PM.
When I started this morning, BTW that brake booster was a PITA to remove! Now an empty canvass! Room to work! Needed one more pressure wash! I stripped out the flare nut on my rear line! Da gonnit! Ordered all new hard lines from Jegs. What is the green thing in the photo so I can order a new one? This is coming from the gas tank, over the rear axle. Thanks
Last edited by stuartswede; 03-05-2021 at 07:27 PM.
You've been busy! I admire your ambition and motivation.
I masked off my brake booster. I think it's the only thing I didn't remove before painting (just wasn't worth the hassle at the time)...
Got the coil spring out from the front passenger side, exciting since my spring compressor hasn't arrived yet, and I ran out of room lowering the control arm with the floor jack, let's just leave it at that.
When I tried to remove the upper strut nut however, it was frozen solid and wouldn't budge. It snickered at PB Blaster, heat and my best, brute force effort at moving it. Things did not end well for the nut, resulted in a pretty cool cross-section.
RIP Mr. Nut
While dealing with the nut, I noticed the elaborate bushing and bearing innards of this mounting plate setup, obviously not up to snuff.
Drivers side same way, it is still assembled and I see daylight there.
Rock Auto saved the day, new parts will be here Tuesday. Rock on!
I got the passenger side suspension completely disassembled except for the control arm bushings Sway bar looks lonely
Removed the old ball joint and the front bushing, but when I tried to get the back one out, only the center sleeve came out, and the tip of my ball joint tool became imbedded in the rubber. I could not bang it out in either direction, so grabbed the torch to burn out the rubber, thinking I could use a dremmel to cut the OD of the bushing and break the hoop. Once I got my tool out, I was playing around, and with an open hole in the bushing, the torch created a flame thrower, pretty cool!
Love that blue orb-like streak, couldn't see in real time.
And it was multi directional
Burn'n Rubber with no tires!
Now she is a true FIREBIRD!!!
Last edited by stuartswede; 03-07-2021 at 07:06 AM.
My upgraded rear control arms and cross member came today, sure look beefier than the sheet metal stamps.
Back the Blue!
Finally got the "Fire Bushing" out, waiting for material.
Installed new motor mounts, glad I'm doing them now, looks like you have to remove the control arms for access to the nuts in the cross member. I like the paint scheme, Oakland Raiders baby!
That cross member has some pretty nice welds.
Passenger side ready for prime time.
Drivers side will be Monday's child.
Last edited by stuartswede; 03-07-2021 at 07:44 PM.
Hey Scooter, the link just didn't look happy when I first installed.
So I put the original back in, still not right, so I heated up the long bolt and bent until happy. I also ordered a new set of end link hardware to replace if needed. Not sure if the mismatch is due to no tires being on the ground with everything seated. I knew someone with a keen eye would notice.
02-22-2021, 08:37 PM
