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I am guessing the gauge is reading between the pump and regulator because I had almost 20 psi upstream of the TBI before I put in the extra regulator. I needed 13 psi for proper operation. The original CFI system has a regulator built into the first TBI and a return to the tank downstream of the 2nd TBI. I am going to plumb in my other gauge and attempt to understand.
OK, I see. Does the new regulator have a return port? Sounds like you are dead-heading the pump. That will kill the pump sooner than later.
When you were only running on the regulator in the throttle body and getting 20psi, I suspect the fuel return line is too small to handle the higher volume of the bigger pump, so the regulator can't do what it needs to. What did you put in for a pump?
No return port on this one. Someone recommended the 255 LPH, so that is what I put in. Just did some research and found that the stock one was 100 LPH. Maybe something a little less drastic would be apropos.
Last edited by stuartswede; 06-15-2021 at 07:27 AM.
Someone recommended the 255 LPH, so that is what I put in. Just did some research and found that the stock one was 100 LPH. Maybe something a little less drastic would be apropos.
All of the 255LPH pumps I have seen are rated at 40psi. They will work at 10-20psi, but will flow more like 275LPH at that pressure and will have a significant amount of bypass flow back to the tank. That's almost 3 times the original pump's flow and the CFI fuel return system likely can't handle it.
Stinks to have to change the pump now, but I suspect that's what needs to be done. Maybe one of the CFI guys are reading this and can chime in.
I plumbed in my gauge just upstream of the fwd TBI, and it is rock solid at 13 psi. I reduced the regulator pressure from 67 down to around 60 where the TBI regulator just started to move up to around 13.5 psi, just to remove as much dead head as possible on the fuel pump, and not be restricting available fuel flow. I will have to see how it goes once I can open it up on a test drive. Street lethal suggested a 190 LPH pump as an alternative.
Removed my auxiliary pressure gage at the TBI inlet after verifying proper pressure. Completed air system plumbing.
Timing at idle it was approximately 6 deg BTDC, tightened down distributor. My idle rpm is around 900, and vacuum was at 13.5. Sounds really happy and feels like it wants to be UN-leashed. I have insurance and a tag, thinking of bolting on the fenders and nose, install lights and go for a ride. Then remembered that my windshield is not glued down, waiting till after paint, dang! Patience is a virtue, but is sometimes hard to exercise.
I'm surprised your vacuum reading at idle isn't higher there at sea-level. That cam is pretty tame, so that can't be the reason.
I'm more familiar with carb setups, but I wonder if you can bump up the initial spark advance (to like 12 BTDC) and adjust the idle speed back down to where it should be...
Thanks TL,
Not sure how to adjust idle speed, would like slower. One thread said to adjust torx on IAC, but cannot find any. Could not find consensus on where to put advance. Looking for advice.
Thanks TL,
Not sure how to adjust idle speed, would like slower. One thread said to adjust torx on IAC, but cannot find any. Could not find consensus on where to put advance. Looking for advice.
I'd double it to 12 degrees initial, but only if the idle speed is adjustable, because it will increase by advancing the timing...
Not sure how to adjust idle speed, would like slower. One thread said to adjust torx on IAC, but cannot find any. Could not find consensus on where to put advance. Looking for advice.
Found this video for you...4:23 shows where the torx adjustment screw is.
Thanks so much IROC, I found that video and a couple for the tuning and syncing the CFI this morning. I found my 20 torx, and it was still covered, and the syncing bolt on the other throttle body is still welded in place, after 38 years. I am resetting my timing and then will play with the idle speed and sync this afternoon.
Set my timing at 12 degrees BTDC, installed the air cleaner, just for a photo op
Created a water manometer to set and sync the throttle body's. Looks like it should work pretty good. Closer look, should be happy with results!
Last edited by stuartswede; 06-17-2021 at 05:34 AM.
Thanks TL, that's what sold us on the house, I never tire of the view. It's a classic Florida oak hammock with a creek meandering thru that dumps out to the intercoastal waterway, and no backyard busybody neighbors.
Hey Resipsa,
I guess GSD could have more than one meaning. I am trying to get s*** (stuff) done!, but also have a German shepherd dog. I've had 3 others, and Nuke is the best of them all.
Since I am running the electric radiator fans, I got a 100 amp Powermaster alternator (just because this brand looks really cool). Also had to get a new slider bracket as my old alternator mounted slightly different, so obviously had to get a chrome blingy one. Looking better every day.
Hey TL, To make a short story long, my stock gauges are not dialed in. Remember I broke several very brittle needles during instrument panel restoration. Battmann was kind enough to provide me with a new set, but hard to zero correctly. The temp and oil pressure were tracking, however, the oil was about 20 below zero at zero, and the temp was around 80 above zero at zero. I tried to re zero the needles, and the oil is now reading around 40 psi at idle, which I believe, but the temp is still misbehaving. I ordered auxiliary gauges that I will mount on the pillar, coolant temp, oil pressure and trans oil temp, since I am going to the air heat exchangers. I just got the coolant temp hooked up today, and with the 160 degree thermostat and electric fan, and the ambient temp 90 degrees in the shade, my coolant temp was steady at around 190 F at 900 rpm idle. I will start with the TBI setting and sync tomorrow. I just didn't want to blindly idle thru all this not knowing true coolant temp. Also my tach is screwy reading around 3500 regardless of actual engine RPM. My multimeter seems to be reading actual rpm. Any input would be appreciated.
Those tachs are notorious for going bad. Someone here sells kits to fix the circuitry. Don't know what to tell you about the gauges. It has been said here that they are little more than a trim package on these cars. I have temporarily connected an after-market oil pressure gauge and Temp gauge for when I do the cam break-in, because I don't trust the factory gauges. 190 is a good temp for idling in 90-degree weather. What kind of multi-meter do you have that reads RPM?...
Those tachs are notorious for going bad. Someone here sells kits to fix the circuitry. Don't know what to tell you about the gauges. It has been said here that they are little more than a trim package on these cars. I have temporarily connected an after-market oil pressure gauge and Temp gauge for when I do the cam break-in, because I don't trust the factory gauges. 190 is a good temp for idling in 90-degree weather. What kind of multi-meter do you have that reads RPM?...
They are Glow shift, from Amazon, mediocre quality 60 to 80 dollars per gauge, but you can select the colors by pressing the button, pretty cool. Plus the triple gauge holder was less than 20 bucks, vs $100 on eBay.
Last edited by stuartswede; 06-21-2021 at 08:58 PM.
This was the "before" a couple days ago Gauges mounted on pillar, like it My gauges have a greenish glow, so goes good with the aux gauges, and they dim nicely when you turn the lights on Hooked up my new ac comp pigtail. Old one had a diode, new one not so much. Hope it doesn't matter.
I bought an adapter to connect the ALDL to the OBD2 scanner I have in hopes of monitoring engine data and clearing codes etc, but my scanner does not recognize I am plugged in, even tho I am. Big disappointment. I got another cable that connects the ALDL to a USB on the laptop. I wanted to monitor key parameters while adjusting throttle body's and breaking in the engine etc. I got a used laptop for 100 bucks, and downloaded Tunerpro, wanting to simply monitor engine parameters while messing around with the break in etc. I followed all the instructions, but Tunerpro is still giving me the bird and will not connect to my ECM. I downloaded several others, and the only one that works is winALDL. I got it to read my engine data real time, but the dash board and parameter list is very limited. The coolant temp is around 20 degrees higher than my gage, but my gage and fan controller is plumbed in to the heater line on the pump which I assume is post radiator. Looks like the BLM is pretty good at 108, 127.5 is optimum
I had to do some honeydoos, and replaced an attic vent fan Tuesday that took all day. Took away from my restore effort.
Last edited by stuartswede; 06-24-2021 at 06:28 PM.
Installed AC plumbing and replaced melted loom with a woven type that looks pretty good. Charged the system, note clamp holding trigger so I don't have to. Frost out on the pumpkin', blowin' cold. Woven loom looks pretty good too. Those are the old AC hoses BTW.
My son was in town over the weekend for my granddaughters 1st birthday party. I cranked up the beast Saturday morning so he could hear it. Ran for a couple minutes then blew the compressor relief valve. I had apparently overcharged the system, just using the low pressure AC Pro setup, although was still in the 35 psi range on the low side. I also have been using an old refrigerator compressor as a vacuum pump for the last 20 years, so may not have fully sucked down the system. I picked up the right stuff like I should have originally.
Sucked it down to almost 30 inches Recharged and it is blowing cold again, I figure in was running in the 450+ psi range when the relief valve blew, now around 250/40 psi.
Got the old rusty bumper support out. New one pressure blasted and ready for POR 15. Ordered a replacement gauge cluster on eBay, and replaced today. Now all are working perfect!!!! Yes, I am almost out of gas!! So nice to have real gauges again. Used my new homemade plexiglass lens tho.
Got my "DRL"s mounted today. They will function like fog lights, but let people know I am coming. They can be dim, Or Bright! I think they look pretty cool.
Got my "DRL"s mounted today. They will function like fog lights, but let people know I am coming. They can be dim, Or Bright! I think they look pretty cool.
Hey NoEm, sorry for the delayed response, but here's how I did it.
Mounted the lights to the aluminum support with a few modifications. Drilled a mounting hole to center the light in the opening of the louver panel (each side). With a cutoff wheel, removed about 3 inches of the lip around the hole to allow the light bracket to seat. Next view is from the front.
Then had to customize the mounting socket to allow enough adjust-ability to point the light where I wanted it.
Here is the old air tube I made supplying the port side, it looked crappy, so I made a new one. Looks a lot more professional Putting the nose back on, finally looking like a real F body again! Ordered all new u-nuts and fasteners from "clips and fasteners" (thanks Battmann). I thought the zinc chromate (gold) screws would look nice against the black, and they do.
Last edited by stuartswede; 07-04-2021 at 07:54 AM.
I would love to take it out, but the windshield is not glued in yet, waiting till after paint. Would hate to slam on brakes and watch my new windshield tumble over the hood and smash on the asphalt in front of me. Does the law require a windshield??
I am near sighted, so have worn glasses since the second grade. Would be fun to jump in and lay a patch.
Formally attached the bumper to the upper support using some extra hurricane straps as straightener/washer plates. Now I am good to 155 mph. Installed the sub bumper support, reminds me of Mad Max! Headed to Thunderdome, just need a 50 caliber. Ran the wiring thru the firewall and installed a switch. Here are the dim DRLs And the brights, I am really happy with these. Happy Independence Day!
My 255 LPH pump gave up the ghost pumping against shutoff head, so replaced with a stock 100 LPH. Ditched the auxiliary regulator too, good riddance! Also my fuel level was acting up, showing about a half tank above full. Got a new sending unit and mounted the stock pump. Everything is happy now.
My duct temperature with Max AC was only 16 F below ambient, so ordered a new condenser. Now 27 F below ambient at the AC duct. Much better, but my Highlander measured almost 40 deg F lower than ambient. Blocked the fenders on the table, a recommendation from the "save the back foundation", nice to see it all one color again. With a full tank of gas (around 16 gal) the rear wheel clearance went from a fist plus 2 fingers to just under a fist. Definitely lower. And the front is lower than previous with all the parasite hardware and fluids installed. Hopefully complete paint this month, my birthday is the 27th, would like to drive before then. Cheers!
Last edited by stuartswede; 07-08-2021 at 06:55 PM.
Wet sanded the hood to eliminate orange peel and bug tracks, with 800 to 2000 grit. Buffing to bring back the shine, lower right. Looking nice! Painted the fenders and nose last night. Removed the windshield in preparation of painting the rest of the car.
Want to spray the sill plate, so isolated the virgin interior. Figured should make the interior waterproof in anticipation of buffing I pulled off the old door edge molding and the adhesive remover didn't work so used a razor tool and the paint came off on strips! Must have been a previous repair, the grey primer did not grab the topcoat, but the black primer did. Glad I found this out. Keepin on truckin'
I would like to accent my louvered openings with a gold accent and was looking at other cars. I was thinking of spraying gold in the inset of the louvered openings, then I found this
I tried using 1/4 inch tape but didn't make the turn. I am thinking of commissioning Battmann to make me a stencil that I can spray the outline on my existing opening.
By the way, this was a car driven by Burt for 4 years https://www.foxnews.com/auto/burt-re...ing-to-auction
06-15-2021, 07:02 AM
