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That's possible. I did switch them around to get the motor in. Bigger question is if it matters?
If it was me, I would definitely want the motor sitting level. No telling what effects that would have down the driveline. Want it as square as possible. Plus, if it’s something you ever decide to sell that may be looked at negatively. I know first hand what a pain it is jacking lifting removing reinstalling etc but you will be glad you did in the long run. As much work as you’ve put in this far why not make it right 😬
Damnit man you had me convinced. Put the lift together and drug it out to the car. Checked level on the motor (was still off) but got lucky and checked level at the radiator support. Whole car is off by about the same amount. Motor is sitting just fine. I'll double check when I get it back on it's wheels.
Remember when I said I wasn't known to be a bright man....
Damnit man you had me convinced. Put the lift together and drug it out to the car. Checked level on the motor (was still off) but got lucky and checked level at the radiator support. Whole car is off by about the same amount. Motor is sitting just fine. I'll double check when I get it back on it's wheels.
Remember when I said I wasn't known to be a bright man....
Well to be fair I did assume that you started with the car level. And you know what they say when you “assume” something...
Been avoiding the Trans crossmember. Right now it's defeated me, but I've got the headlights back on!
Also working on getting the rear shocks replaced. Originals were really shot.
Been a busy couple weeks. Transmission is bolted in! Got the Holley Black installed and hooked up as well. I owe you guys pictures on those.
Here's the latest fun, Installed the passenger side header (Speed Engineering long tubes). They fit tighter than heck, you'll need to pick up the engine to get them in, and I had to cut the ear off the TH400. Unfortunately they're sitting right against my stock steel fuel lines. See below:
Going to try and re-route them a little bit to get some space. Will post a pic when I get it done.
Let's have a conversation about a couple choices I made for this swap. First off, I went with the Holly Blackhawk crossmember without Holley's motor mounts or oil pan. It can fit with some massaging, but I sure did make it ugly. See below:
Ultimately it's my fault they turned out as gnarly as they did. I tried to work the holes on a bench. Next time around I'll bolt the trans up, jack it up to see where the holes should be, and "cut" them on the car. Expensive lesson there . After some learning I'd use that crossmember again, the exhaust cutouts and torque arm mount are very nice to have.
On the other hand, I hate how I'm setting up the fuel system. Sticking with stock lines, an inline holley black, and a mallory fuel pressure regulator (not mounted yet). The pump was a major PITA to get installed, and took some creative plumbing bits. See below:
I wouldn't recommend doing this unless your only concern is budget and you have unlimited time. Assuming the pump runs well (and that's a big assumption) I'm still stuck with stock lines that are getting a little weak in their old age.
Being a cheap ***, I didn't want to splurge. But if I were to do it again I'd go with Aeromotive's GenII tank for a couple hundred more, and run all new AN lines to the reg.
Hopefully the black runs good for awhile and I don't have to revisit this.
That going to run carbureted? Myself I’ve never been a fan of a hard 90 like that in a fuel system. That’s a sharp turn. Like to use an A/N style 90 in a situation like that. In a low psi situation it may not present a problem.
Was a real fun weekend.
Got the starter hooked up, the MSD 6014 wired in, carb installed, and attempted a start.
Unfortunately I've got a couple things fighting me: my MSD plug wires were a bit short and the 2nd hand Mallory Regulator can't seem to keep up with what the holley black is pushing out. Fuel pressure gauge jumps up to 9ish PSI and the carb leaks from the bowls. Have a new Aeromotive Universal Regular coming that should hopefully resolve that issue. If it doesn't I guess I'm running all new fuel lines anyway.
Felt real good hearing the pig crank over after 6+ months of working on her. She nearly fired over. Get those couple things sorted out and she should run!
Cranks but doesn't start. No spark. Seeing 10.5 volts when cranking. Thinking that's not giving the MSD the juice it needs. Going to try charging the battery and trying again.
Time for an update and some honesty.
I spent entirely too much time dicking around this summer, so the car won't hit the road this fall. A little bummed by that fact, but it does open some opportunity.
To be completely fair: I could go into crunch time, get the driveshaft built, front suspension up underneath it, and maybe drive it once or twice before snow hits Nebraska.
That has a few issues with it. 1) I don't like rushing these things 2) I don't want to bolt the old steering bits back in 3) It feels stupid putting the stock brakes back on.
So here's the fall/winter/early spring plans (check through this thread to see how many times I change plans):
Get new front brakes from BigBrakeUpgrade.com
Get new front wheels/tires (Corvette most likely)
Clean/POR15/Paint Wheel wells
Get the new proform steering rebuilt kit
Cut a hole in the hood for the air filter. Paint hood tractor Red to match engine bay. Maybe throw in a screaming chicken decal.
Put all those neat bits on the car
Get Heater Figured out
From there it would be "driveable". Lots of little stuff in there I'm not going to bore you guys with. Here's to having this ol bird on the road in 2021!
Ordered the C6 front brake kit from BigBrakeUpgrade.com. That one hurt the ol wallet.
I'm not allowed to buy anymore parts for awhile.
Did get the wheel wells painted up. No POR-15 because I put it away poorly last time and my half full can was hard as a rock. Oh well. Rustoleum works just fine and looks plenty good to me.
Boom! New Brakes! Everything is so new and shiny now
Compared to the old rotors, the C6 setup is massive
I've got to attach all the steering bits, bleed the brakes, get new wheels and tires for the front, and the car will be "road ready"
Getting closer every week.
New wheels came in today. Ridler 18x8s. Originally thought I was going to go with Corvette Wheels and spacers but decided that I didn't want to deal with the spacers.
We'll see if I can get enough rubber on these to not burn off the tires constantly
Gotta love Nebraska winters. Got the steering linkage half on, and we got dumped with snow.
Not a whole lot of actual progress, but I did have a chat with my welder buddy about getting the exhaust done, and he convinced me to order it from Matt Walter.
Should be ready to rock as soon as this damn weather turns.
Shoveled a path out to the car in todays balmy(50F) weather.
Got the wheels test fit on the front!
Everything fits good enough. May have to hammer some sheet metal to give some room on full lock, but shouldn't be a big deal.
Anybody have a recommendation for a 245-40-18 summer tire?
Proforged Steering setup is installed. Measuring the old vs new carefully makes it look like I can avoid an alignment for a couple miles.
Mostly just stoked to be outside working on it.
I feel your pain. My tiny garage isn't big enough to do anything with my Firebird. Being in Minnesota, it's a long, long wait to spring. Which is unfortunately because I need do a wheel alignment, put together the interior again, and I really ought to color sand and polish it. Thankfully, the winter has been (relatively) mild this year so hopefully it'll come sooner rather than later.
Things idiots like me do:
Got real excited after getting the wheels and tires. Got the brakes bled. Decided I didn't need some of the odds and ends, and wanted to take the ol girl for a drive.
Set her down on her own feet for the first time in over a year. Fired it up. Put her in gear. Gave a couple stabs of the throttle and nothing.
Checked the trans fluid and the dipstick was bone dry. Whoops!!
Double checked Jegs and there's a breakin procedure for the TC. I'm a dummy. Will get it right tomorrow.
Ya'll probably know what that means. She got on the road today! Took her for a couple block test drive. Set off a couple car alarms and pissed off a couple neighbors, but couldn't be happier to finally get to drive her.
Torque Converter doesn't want to lock up until about 3300RPM, so I didn't have too much fun, but it was good to feel her move under her own power. Was also only running on 7 cylinders accidentally and she was a bit sluggish. Still more power than the old LG4
Neat thing I found out the hard way - I have a Reverse Valve Body Manual TH400. Not sure if I love that or not but it is what it is until it blows.
Need to get gauges and vacuum lines run, speedo repaired, exhaust installed, carb and ignition tuned, and it'll be a regularly drivable car. List is getting shorter and shorter.
This won't win me any popularity points, but I got the hood installed.
Hole for the cleaner is temporary until I can learn to make a cowl scoop. I kinda like it, despite not being able to drive in the rain.
Pillar gauges are mocked up. More or less installed. AFR and Vac and hooked in. Trans Temp needs a sensor somewhere on the TH400. Little more wiring to finish up and they'll be operational.
I have the same jackstands, jack, dirt work space, mounted my fuel pump in the exact same spot, and I have a red 85 T/A that I put all UMI suspension on.
We have way too much in common Bob!
I have the same jackstands, jack, dirt work space, mounted my fuel pump in the exact same spot, and I have a red 85 T/A that I put all UMI suspension on.
We have way too much in common Bob!
Thanks!
Started working on getting the speed engineering duals installed. As has been mentioned elsewhere - backhalf fits just fine, X-Forward needs modification. This is what I've got mocked up at the X so far. Need to get some more pipe from the local metal supply.
Local metal supply failed me. Ordered new pipe from summit. Should be able to get it all mocked up Friday.
In other news that tent made it a year before midwestern wind tore it apart. Not too bad for $200 if you ask me.
Local metal supply failed me. Ordered new pipe from summit. Should be able to get it all mocked up Friday.
In other news that tent made it a year before midwestern wind tore it apart. Not too bad for $200 if you ask me.
I had this happen to me 3 times with 1 of these temp garages from Harbor Freight. 2 times my new paint job got scratched. Never again. Now I just put a cover on it.
I had this happen to me 3 times with 1 of these temp garages from Harbor Freight. 2 times my new paint job got scratched. Never again. Now I just put a cover on it.
I'm considering myself lucky that my paint isn't good enough for me to care about the scratches.
Local law is the only reason I put it up. Now that the car is driveable that's not really a problem. Cover will be on it until the exhaust is done.
They are nice to have. My first temp garage lasted for 3 years, never a problem. But we have been getting strong winds since last year. The first time I didnt really tie it down, never needed to. But a storm blew it apart. I had the metal tubes form the first one and rebuilt it. I spiked and tied it down. But last Christmas a nasty storm came through and blew it apart again. Now I have to touch up some areas and repaint the entire rear quarter panel.
Well, ya'll probably know what this means. Car is on the road!! This part of the project is "done".
Right now she runs pig rich. AFR gauge almost always stays at 10.0, not sure if it'll read richer than that. Coolant likes to get good and hot, but hovers around 240 without much issue. Fan temp switch is defective, so it's wired to run with the key on. The Speed Engineering 3" duals are nice, but a little loud for my taste.
Now that I've got the negatives out of the way, this motor/trans combo is badass. It's my first time driving a high stall converter car and that took some getting used to, but I was able to get on her a bit on some open road. She gets up and goes much better than the LG4 ever could. With the cam I've got in that LM7 power comes on around 4k and pulls like a train until I let off or shift. Tons of fun even with the shitty 2.73 highway gears.
Next steps? Get a cover for the "hood ornament". Get that carb leaned out. Get the speedo more correct. Fix the fan switch. Probably swap in a cooler thermostat. Get an alignment done. Pop in some auger style exhaust baffles. Drive the **** out of her and enjoy her. Once I get the gremlins shaken out I'll take this old bird to a track.
It's been a long year working on this thing, but boy it already feels worth it.
Have a couple more pics. Sorry she's so dirty, but the way she looks right now it's hard to tell
I don't think a lower temp thermostat is going to fix high temps at 240°F. Both are wide open at that temp. I'd gander on an air flow problem to the radiator. Do you still have the air dams under the nose? And what fan(s) are you using?
I think rule of thumb is leaner fuel and retarded timing = hotter, But that's within "normal" operating parameters. Not sure what happens when things are way outside of bounds at 10:1 AFR.
That's what I've heard as well. I'll get the AFR straightened out and see what happens.
Now that I'm sitting around thinking about it, my temp gauge is tapped into the upper radiator hose. I wonder if that could be skewing the readings hotter.
Project cars are never done.
09-15-2020, 11:14 AM
. After some learning I'd use that crossmember again, the exhaust cutouts and torque arm mount are very nice to have.
