LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Actually I went with the street 195 heads. I asked about the competition ported version. They said I would get another 15 hp but would cost almost 700 more. They very well could have talked me into the the comp 195's and I would have bought them but they didn't. That ment a lot to me. I can spend that 700 towards buying a 9 inch to actually hook up.

Tobias05

nice heads, and awesome start on the bird! hope i can tear mine down and have a swing at it someday too!

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

LilJayV10: Excellent work so far! Your custom lower rad support has inspired me... I think when I start working on the 86, Im going to build a custom support for the 4th gen rad and a/c condensor. I wasnt totally happy with the way it all sat in my 87.

On the upper strut mounts. I went ahead and got spohns. They are VERY nice pieces. My stock ones were sloppy. Not to mention ugly compared to the spohn piece. They are very solid and Im pretty sure they use a common bearing. So should they ever wear out, its just a snap ring and you can change out that bearing. WITHOUT messing with the entire assembly/alignment.

I was worried about clearance, because I was using the 4th gen booster and master cylinder. I talked to him about it, and he made the upper mounts to my specified height. They arent as tall as his production units, but they arent as short as stock. Since I was lowering, I wanted them to be a bit taller. Just an FYI...he'll make ya a set for at your height for the same price

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

ghettocruiser: Did it trun out to be true that your 4th gen stuff was going to interfear with your Spohn parts? Is it close? Any pics? Just curiouse cuz I have some Hotparts.com units that I am not 100% happy with and am considering replacement. Although I run 3rd gen stuff, I am just curiouse. thx

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

dennis,

What don't you like about the hotparts strut mount? I know there is an early design and late design. I was looking at their new ones that can adjust camber and caster independently. There's a few threads about them now in the suspension board. One guy said he had the spohn mounts, he said they looked nice but the hotparts performed better. I don't know.

I slapped my worn out stock ones on for now. I will replace them before I get the car on the road.

Thanks for all the nice comments about my car. The front is back together and is on the ground. I had to push it out of the garage. I'm working on a 95 Camaro 3.4 V6 for a friend. It has a bad oil leak.

After I get that done my car will go back in the garage and I will put the engine/trans in. I have to do some valve body work on the transmission first.

I also need to adjust the steering box before I put it back on to.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I have the first gen style that they made. The new ones that they sell now look great. I might just get those. They are a nice company. They said they would help me out and upgrade me for cheaper than buying the new model.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Dennis,
I think it would have been tight depending on where the mount ended up after alignment. I just didnt want to take the chance of it hitting when they had to do the alignment. I dont think it was an issue with the thirdgen parts. The 4th gen parts are positioned/shaped alittle different.

As for performance between brands... I cant see how they would differ much? Its just a housing, with a solid mounted bearing. Unless the "hotparts" ones are different inside. But atleast you have other choices if you want them.

J.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I got the trick flow heads off and cleaned everything. I cleaned the studs, chased bolt holes, etc.




When AFR says to use a 1205 gasket, thats what they mean. I couldn't believe how big the port is.



AFR suggests a Air Gap RPM intake but not to port it because the heads don't match it exactly.



I think everyone has seen a SBC with aluminum heads before.



In the instructions is says if you are using comp cams pro magnum rockers they will ship with a stud thats longer because the center of that rocker is so much bigger.

I have crane engergizer rockers. The poly locks I have are the deepest they make I think. After deciding a 7.3in pushrod is what I needed I tried to adjust the rocker arm, just for mock up sake.

The stud is so long that the lock in the center of the poly lock is flush at the top. Every other set of heads I have adjusted the lock sits down about 1/4-3/8inch below the top of the poly lock.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Just to show that AFR L98 angle heads have no problem fitting SLP headers. I have another thread that I think should be a sticky talking about AFR heads and SLP headers.

AFR heads will work with straight plugs and L98 angle plugs ONLY!





The rear tube on the SLP header apparently been so hot its warped it. I can bolt up the front four bolts the rear tube is almost 1/2 off. I have seen this on SBC's in mid 90's trucks. Without there being one flange for all of the tubes to the tubes on the front and rear can heat up and move. I bought these headers used and didn't see it till I tried to bolt them up. I think I am going to bolt them so a set of junk heads and heat the rear tube up and move it. I don't know what else to do.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Last night I was trying to test fit the SLP headers again. AFR recommends a 1404 gasket which is 1.5x1.5. This shows how much larger the port on the head is compared to the SLP's.







Do you think that I can port the SLP's out that much to match? The way it is now is going to cause horrible turbulence.

I asked Dyno Don about his headers and what size of gasket he uses. The gaskets he uses is 1.55x1.63

I have thought about buying a set of his headers since they already have the bigger collector and especially if the ports are bigger.

Any ideas?

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

If you have the $$$, go for it. If now you may look into moddin gthe SLPs. Or just saying screw it all and do the heads later down the road. Easy to swap out.

Thats all the thought I have on that. haha.

My heads don't match up super well with my headers, I use the 1.5x1.5 kinda gaskets, but I def don't have overlap as bad as that.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I am selling my SLP headers. If anyone is interested PM me. I am going to fix that rear primary tube before I sell them. I don't think it would be right to sell them and not fix them first.

I mocked up the serpentine belt brackets tonight. I had to drill and tap a bolt hole on the passenger side lower block to put a stud in to bolt the bracket up.

Did a bunch of small things, bolted on flywheel, motor mount brackets. Cut the clamshell mounts apart and cleaned them, primered and painted them. Getting them ready for the energy suspension mounts.

I am going to start on the transmission valve body this week. It's the last big thing I have to do before I put the engine in the car.

I am ordering a set of Don's headers. I will have to have a local shop make me a y pipe.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I ordered a set of Dyno Don's headers. My SLP's are for sale and a set of Crane Energizer 1.6 roller rockers.

This is what I am working on now, I am trying to figure out my transmission problems before I put it in the car.





Here are my two "kids" watching

deadbird

Must be nice being able to do more than just look at your car... lol.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Where in the heck have you been? I have PM'd you a couple times. To good to reply back I see. Do you still want those control arms? They are off if you want me to drop them off to ya.

rmmstnr

This is great stuff, great idea to put the build on here, it's great watching something that looks so fun come to life. I wish I was at this point in building up my car; right now I'm at the "dreaming of the $$$ required" stage. Unfortunately, progress even in this area is slow :p

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

It took me a while trust me. I have a few more things to buy. Rocker arms, water pump, exhaust gaskets, etc. All the smaller things what will add up.

I talked to Trans Go about my transmission. The guy told me there was no way I was having the problems I said I had. I told him I respect the fact that he has been working on tranny's longer than I have been a live but he is wrong. We talked for a while and he said to send the valve body to him and he will look at it and not charge me anything. I might just send the whole damn transmission. No body has ever been able to figure out whats wrong with it. I tried to get a hold of Dana at Pro Built but I think he is out for the holidays. I have waited this long another month or so isn't going to kill me.

I am going to try and sit the engine in tomorrow night so I can start doing wiring and things like that while I am waiting on the transmission. If I would have planned better I would have worried about the transmission long before now.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I was determined to put the engine in by Sunday night. It was more like Monday morning but close enough. Thanks to my good friend Daniel who stayed late and helped me. My wife was going to but she had to be at work at 8am.


Ready to go in



Ready to go in to..



I have read about the problems with the Spohn k member. First I was worried about the K member bolting up right. No problem there. Next I was worried about the engine actually sitting down on the motor mounts correctly.

I put the new ES mounts on the k member and put the bolts there to hold them. Then on the first try we put the bolt through the passenger side and messed with the drivers side for at least 30 minutes. I tried every trick I knew. Didn't work.



So we took the passenger side bolt out and tried the driver side first. There's just something not right about the driver side mount. I don't know if it's bent or what but it's not right.

So the second attempt we bolted in the driver side first and lowered it down aligning the passenger side. The bolt freakin slid in. So a little bit of impact action to tight them up and BAMMM! The engine's in the car.



I put a chain on the front of it so it wouldn't destroy the mounts. I scratched up the driver side motor mount trying to get the engine in. I guess it's not going to bring as much on Barret Jackson.



I am still on the quest to fix my transmission. Hopefully my Dyno Don headers will be here in the next week or so. I am not expecting them soon because of the holidays.

Thanks for following my build. I really do appreciate it. I go back to work tomorrow so I probably won't work on it tomorrow. I have to clean the front serpentine brackets up and order some things from summit this week.

Everyone have a good xmas.

Jason

Spike-Z

iTrader: (4)

Great build so far. Although I would suggest getting rid of the chain and swapping poly mounts in your clamshells. A lot less ghetto looking.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Ah, I did put poly mounts in it. The chain is there to keep the engine level since I don't have the transmission in so I won't destroy the mounts.

The chain is temporary.

Brisk

iTrader: (25)

good read so far

3.1EyeCandy

iTrader: (3)

Great work and a wonderful read.

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Jason:

Your headers are on the way, they went out yesterday.

Don>>>

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Don,

Thanks for letting me know. I am looking forward to getting them.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

make sure you post pics of the headers (i know you will) cause i'm interested in what Mr. DD's header's are gonna look like

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

They Look like this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...eaders-w-o.jpg

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

to be honest, i don't see what's so special about them. they look nice, and the y-pipe looks to be a very high flowing piece, but they still look like they're going to be on the small side for an AFR headed 406 with a big roller camshaft. LilJayV10, any reason you're not going with a hooker 2210 longtube?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Mainly ground clearance. The car is lowered, not as much as it is in the first pictures though. The posts I have read say the hooker LT's and the mufflex y hangs down pretty low.

The guy that I bought the SLP's from went high 10's with a 406 with a little bigger cam than mine with the SLP 2 1/4 y pipe and a mufflex 4 inch cat back. I don't expect to run that fast and with a better y pipe I hope to be ok.

I agree, Lt's would probably make more power. If it wasn't for the stock 4x4 stance I would have went with them.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I have a question about how the y pipe should be done. Dyno Don please feel free to post your thoughts on it.

Because of the oil pan I have I am going to have a local shop do my y pipe. Dyno Don, my exhaust guy really liked the picture of your y pipe.

My question is this. The outlet on Dyno Don's Headers are 2 1/2 ball flange. I am running a 4 inch Mufflex. Would it be better to go w/ 2 1/2 on the y pipe to a 3in then a 3-4inch adapter?

Or, start with 2 1/2 then go to 3inch on the y pipe and use a flowmaster merge dual 3in to 4in.

Would the 2 1/2 to 3 y be like a stepped header going from 1 3/4 to 1 7/8? I have no idea of that theory applies to a y pipe. My exhaust guy is going to look come look at the car after I get Don's headers on there to see what kind of room there is with the spohn k member.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Jason

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I came home today to find that Fed Ex and UPS had been by the house today.

Dyno Don's headers showed up as well as the parts I ordered from Summit, Earl's header gaskets, stage 8 bolts and Stewart's Stage 1 water pump.

Someone asked for pictures of the headers so here they are. I tried to compare them the best I could.





Dyno Don's and SLP's





Port sizes, it's hard to tell by the pics, but the ports on Don's headers are bigger. What you can't see in the pic on the SLP's is the tube and the welds on the back side of the flange that make the port smaller.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Problems with SLP's, #6 tube





Driver side, where you have to dent the SLP's




----------
Outlet is 2 1/2 ball flange

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Dyno Don's headers look really good. The main thing that sold me on them was the larger port size than the SLP's. I was going to put the SLP's on that I had until I saw the port size.

IMO, the SLP's should have been like this from the beginning. I didn't order Dyno Don's y pipe because with the deep Moroso pan I am going to have a custom y pipe made. Don's y pipe looks great and is a lot better than SLP's 2 1/4 y pipe.

Since SLP doesn't make their headers anymore, I think Don could have a good market for his shorty headers.

It will probably be a week or so until I get the headers on. My wife is wanting to work on the car so I am going to wait for her. I work seconds and she is working days right now so we don't see each other much.

I am putting the transmission back together. I really didn't find anything wrong except I left one check ball out of the case. I was on the phone with Dana at ProBuilt for at least 1/2 an hour last night. Dana is nothing short of awesome. If my trans still doesn't work right when I put it back together I just might ship it to him to look at. When I blow this trans up I will be ordering one from him.

I think I have decided to go with a pioneer street balancer. The price is good and I don't think I need anything really crazy.

I also have to get a starter. When I had long tubes on the car I used a LT1 starter. I constantly had problems with it. It would make horrible noises and I would have to keep tighten it down. What I didn't know is there are two different teeth count's. There is a difference between 94 &95's. The 95 has the 158 tooth count that I need. I have no idea which starter I had before but I would guess it be the 94.

I need to decide what rockers arms to get. I am going to call AFR and see what they recommend.

Other than that it's just some small things, finish the wiring, then I have to get some AN fitting's and finish the fuel system to the carb.

I appreciate everyone's interest in my build. I know it's nothing special but I like working on it. Hopefully on the way I can help someone avoid the mistakes I have made.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

for shorties, those are some good looking headers. i might try them on a different project of mine. i still think you'll be leaving power on the table with your combo though. how much did you pay for 'em? does dyno don have a website?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I agree I will probably be loosing some power. How much I don't know, I doubt will ever change to long tubes. No Don doesn't have a website. The headers were $480 shipped. They are stainless steel and coated. I believe the y pipe is another $200.

It costs money to go fast.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

have you seen my sig?

i'm well aware, lol! just try to do it with 100less cubes and you'll see just how much you're willing to sacrifice(or spend) to get it there, lol!

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I really didn't say that towards you. I was just throwing that out there for the first person to say, damn thats expensive, you can get such and such for x amount of dollars.

Damn 305's!

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

haha, alright, just making sure, lol!

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Here is a pic of the merge collectors I use:
The one on the right is 2 2 1/2"pipes into a 3" outlet
The left is 2 2 1/2" pipes into a 3 1/2" outlet

If your guy can't get that 3 1/2" one let me know and I'll get you one.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Don, could you explain where you use these? I am looking at the pic and I'm just not getting it?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

it's in the y-pipe where the two pipes come together.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Ok. I am pretty sure I understand. So do you think using 2 2/1 would be good enough or should I try and go 3 inch on the y?

Firebird_dave7

The port job should work real well it looks like there is enough meat there to do it, and if your confident with yourself then go ahead and do it yourself. Because i dont know about yourself but i am so much more satified with work done if i did my self.


with the build!!

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Worked on the car today. My wife asked me to take off work today so she could help work on it.

I got the transmission back together this week. I decided to pull the engine back out and bolt the trans on it instead of laying on the ground and putting it in from the bottom. It went well and didn't have any problem.

She bolted the new headers on. Don, I must say, these things are amazing. I will post pic's tomorrow. We got a bunch of little things done. I was going to put the steering box back on but I can not find the damn bolts any where. My organizational skills leave a little to be desired.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Here are some pic's of the headers. My buddy found the damn bolts for the steering box in the bolt bucket. Go figure. IT doesn't look like I am going to have any tie rod/k member issues. The sway bar end links I am still questioning though.





Spark plug's, they are autolite plugs, I am using MSD wires. There seems to be plenty of room.



No steering shaft clearance problems.

Cadillac

Awesome and beautiful.

*subscribe*

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I cleaned the front serpentine brackets up and put them on tonight. Installed trans cooler lines and cooler. I am trying to get it all to work with the bigger radiator and A/C condenser.



I found out I can not use the tall valve covers and the serpentine setup. The alternator will not clear. I can only imagine how bad it will be with A/C.



I do not want to use centerbolt valve covers. I personally think they are ugly. Anyone using a stock style valve cover with the serpentine setup?

I have a lot of wiring to do.

Here are some pics of the exhaust under the car with the k member. It's tough to see. I tried to get the best angle I could. I am going to have to re route the passenger side brake line. The y pipe is going to be right in the way.





There seems to be a lot of room on the passenger side. I am going to get a LT1 starter this week.



Nothing really exciting. Just slow work to finish everything.

The toughest thing for me right now is how I am going to mount the radiator and fans. I have some sheet aluminum that I want to use for the upper mount. I don't have a metal break or anyway to bend it. Then I have to figure out how to mount the fans.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

You most certainly can retain your tall valve covers, you just need to either purchase a shorter bolt for the alternator from the hardware store, or simply cut the existing bolt with a hacksaw. A shorter bolt, is a stronger bolt, anyways....

Edit: Wanted to add, you can always discard the bolt entirely, install a shorter stem in it's place, slide the A/C bracket onto it, and fasten it with a nut....

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Its been awhile since I scrapped the A/C compressor, but here's a pic of the A/C delete pulley though (sorry for the quality of the pic). The bolt ends barely even reach the valve cover, so you should be fine, because from what I remember, the bolts themselves extend the furthest (in comparison w/the A/C compressor's rear connections)....

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

It's the stud on the back of the alternator. The stud that the positive cable goes to. Even if that cleared I don't know if rest of the alternator would clear. I will have to look again.

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Here is the y-pipe installed: