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TotallyHucked said: It is truly insane what cars go through in the hands of people that don't care
I just don't understand how somebody could be so ham-f!sted when working on stuff.
Do they not have any pride in the work they are doing and just care about the end result sort of working?
I forgot to mention that I found the previous owner on the 'gram.
With a simple search I have found some of the lunacy that happened to this poor car in its past life.
This car was known under his ownership as "The Falcon" and "Xena" is his Jeep Grand Cherokee...
The guy I bought it from wanted these wheels and tires for his Vette as they were what came on it stock.
Nope.
Its not.
But as a tribute to the past, Max has informed me that this very can will be reinstalled on the car after he is done with the exhaust work.
Yup.
He is a boob.
I wonder what "Stereo Foam" is?
I have found no such thing in this car and as you can see if you have read this far, I would have found by now.
So I sent him a follow request to show him that we are fixing his sins for him and we shall see what comes from that.
Perhaps I will just post a photo of the TRULY can reinstalled on the 3" and tag him in it...
August 26th:bucket said:
Golly. That car is in MUCH better hands now. I hope you realize that you literally saved that car, lol. It was going nowhere but downhill before your ownership.
You didn't throw out the Bose wiring did you?
Throw it out, no.
But it was cut at one point and I used a two foot part of one of the wires to the power Blaupunkt doo dad.
Otherwise it is out there in the pile of radio wire stuff.
Some times it is the small victories.
PO awesomeness.
Victory!
Over the weekend I buttoned up the whole rear of the car.
One of the items on the list of to do things was to remedy the fact that parts to the auto were missing.
The rear trim panels were missing and the cars we obtained did not have the Bose rear decklid cover.
So, I was perusing the junk pile and the old dashboard was held together with some metal bracketry that is now going to be reused as the missing stop bracket.
As well as the lock tab that the cover lock grabs on too for "security".
Here we are all taped on for proof of concept...
And it works!
I had a spare door lock cylinder that we repurposed to be the hatch lock and the car it came from had the keys still in it, so we have the actual key for it.
In the original cluster, the trip meter button was broken off.
We have a complete spare cluster and Max set off to see how these things tick.
We have figured out somebody else had been in the cluster previously as fasteners were broken or missing.
With the rebuild completed, magically it has zero miles...
More of the swell lock set up.
I used the sticker from my burger to deem it special...
From the top all closed like...
Here you can see it all closed up.
I have trimmed out one of the rear trim panels to clear the parts that protrude to catch the Bose hatch lid.
It closes right up and looks like it is meant to be there even though it is the wrong color piece...
Opens right up to reveal some doo dads...
This is fully wired up and ready to go as soon as we have a dashboard to put the head unit into.
The board is screwed to a piano hinge that is bolted to the bottom of the floor.
From the hatch mounts, I have found and installed some metal that holds the top of the board into place quite securely.
I spent 24 hours out in the driveway over the last 3 days.
From the doors back the entire car has been reassembled and is ready to go.
However, the dash install has not gone as well.
Max dealt with the gauge cluster clean and rebuild on Saturday.
Then on Sunday, the car won't run.
First it would not fire the injectors.
So we hit it with starting fluid and it would run, easy the distributor module died for some reason.
Que trip #1 to the parts store.
New injector module installed.
Now it randomly fires the injectors, it will start.
But as soon as the key seems to be released as it sounds like it is starting.
Then the injectors stop firing, it stumbles and dies.
Then the injectors fire one more time.
But no dice as it is dead.
Some intronets digging says there is an oil pressure interrupter switch that shuts the whole thing down if no pressure sensed.
Sure, we can do that.
Que trip #2 to the parts store.
So the boy comes back with the new senor and it is wicked huge.
The wrench flats have rounded corners and you need to have a special sensor wrench to get the thing out.
F&%k.
Que trip #3 to the parts store and he took the sensor with him to make sure it fits.
The first store didn't have the right size, so this one took two stops.
He got home.
The stock sensor, has different size wrench flats.
He was pissed.
The new sensor is a 1-1/16th size and needs a super long sensor socket.
The stock sensor is even bigger and does not fit the fancy new socket we purchased.
He ended up cutting the stock sensor in half and using a 1-1/4 socket on the stub to get it out.
New one went right in with the socket and was perfect.
Damm car still won't start.
This is where we are today.
No dash still and now it won't start.
I have an appointment with DMV to get it registered this Friday.
We shall see if we are going to make it, as this is an out of state car so they have to verify the VIN visually.
I have been doing a bunch of reading as I knew we were not the only ones to have had this issue.
On the thirdgen.org forum, I found a recent thread that told the same story as mine.
It was told that it was the function of the VATS system.
Junior went out at lunch and found that he had unplugged the VATS from the harness.
That thread is what lead us to look for that little black box.
Car starts right up now with it plugged in, imagine that.
He was going to pull the chip to see if that was the thing as well because the car will start with out it, but didn't need to go that far this time...
I still ordered the little VATS disable 30hz modulator gizmo they recommended for the car though as it was only $25 for the piece of mind.
Whilst looking the other day we saw the VATS has had the resistors soldered in line as we tested them the other day at 680 ohms on the key and the resistors in the line.
So somebody had already started eliminating the system before we got ahold of the car.
There is also a 1989 305 powered truck in the local junkyard we may go and requisition the computer and chip from as well. (Somebody else already took the computer from the truck)
That is stated to eliminate the whole damn thing and is plug and play.
Good times and I guess now she has a couple of new sensors....
Whelp.
The story continues.
Max and I were told to take Friday off last week to make for a nice long 4 day weekend.
Max tried to clean up and protect the soldered in resistors that eliminate the need for the resistor key.
He broke one of the legs off two days before we have appointment with the DMV.
Enter Amazon and speedy fast delivery.
I bought a kit of resistors that has some 1,350 pieces in it.
Just need one.
It came in on Friday morning and he then soldered in the 680 ohm jobbie and we were back in business.
Then we had to put the dash install into overdrive and get it ready to hit the road by appointment time.
Now we have the proper sized holes for speakers and all the mounting spots for the dash.
I didn't want the back of the speaker open so I also started working on making a backing to close it off to help prevent sound cancellation.
I started with a pair of coffee filters to get the shape I wanted, those with some tape to hold the shape got me started....
I popped the speaker into the hole to check fitment and then added some more tape for structure.
I was satisfied with the shape and size of the "shell".
I then added more tape to the shell and then flipped it over and added HVAC mastic butyl tape for structure.
It looks like a baked potato dish.
After some fitting and refitting, I have a nice fit to the speaker and the dash.
I have also trimmed off all the extra materials that are not needed.
New dashboard is in and complete!
Just have to get some double sided tape so that we can reaffix the 25th Anniversary tag on the passenger side.
Look at that complete dash area....
Speakers both have backing on them now with wiring and are fully screwed into place.
Dash pad is on and the rest of the trim is going in next.
Just ignore the console mess that is on the floor as we didn't have time to get that part put back in before the DMV trip.
I forgot to take a totally complete photo of the dash project.
This is how it has been sitting for the last two months on the big 6 ton jack stands.
Must be getting close as Max is lowering it down from monster truck status...
Heckin yeah!
They took it for a rip around the block after I did to see how all of our work turned out.
But right after this was complete we ran the car to the DEQ where it passed the emissions test and then to the DMV where I transferred the title to make it ours.
Here it is with the tailpipe sniffer in the tailpipe.
We took a chance at going through DEQ as we still don't have the muffler installed.
Just a 3" pipe that terminates just after it comes over the axle tube and points down at where the muffler inlet pipe shall be.
It passed just fine with a visual cat inspection and good exhaust fumes.
It sits so low now.
I let her drive it to get it washed and then she went to show her friend.
While out showing it off, the 90 that went over the axle broke off.
It was only tacked in place for final welding after all was in place including the muffler and tailpipes.
So there is still more to do on it like the console and muffler, but it is nearly there.
Also, before we took it down she got to learn to change her own oil.
The PO true to form, put the filter on as tight as possible.
Awesome.
Jacob was over so I had him get under there and assist with the removal of the filter.
After that was all did down below, they put the new earl into the pan.
While at the house, I put Jacob to work as he was standing around looking at his phone.
I had him change out the rear brake soft line as it was showing some wear on the outer casing of the hose.
Friday morning before the DMV, Max, Burger, and I bled the brakes with me pushing the pedal and them going around to open the bleeders.
We did each side twice on the rear and then for the front as well.
The car has great brakes and it will lock them up if you give it enough.
So now this is how the front of the house looks, all Chevy and all considered old now.
She loves the car and just wants to be set free to drive and drive.
Now I have leverage to make sure she does well in the next terms of college.
I did see that this car seems to run hot.
Like at 240 consistently, in stop and go as well as on the open road above 40+ mph.
This is the stock radiator cooling fan that is on the 1992 we have.
No shroud on it and only 5 blades.
Advance/Autozone shows a replacement at ~1200 cfm and the stock mount sets the fan a couple of inches off the radiator, allowing it to draw around the radiator instead of through it.
So over the weekend we went to the junkyard that was having a sale on all parts pulled from the yard.
Enter my over enthusiasm along with some internet research and I now know what to look for when shopping for efficient cooling fans from the OEM suppliers.
I stacked up 5 different styles of fans in just a couple few hours.
This unit off a Volvo wagon is rated at 600w and they have been proven to be able to cool even the most rowdy of turbo engines.
To run them I will have to learn some new tricks as you can hook them directly to the battery and they won't budge.
They require a Pulse Width Frequency Modulator to generate a signal to trigger the fan on.
The really nifty part is that guys are using these and other similar fans at 50% duty cycle and they have more than enough to cool the radiators they are behind.
So overkill, excellent.
The PWM gizmo's are a massive $10 each and I picked mine up off Amazon. They are similar to the ones shown in this graphic below. I have not tested to see how this electrical design will work just yet, that and I will not be using the ECM to trigger the fans. In my car the computer does not trigger the fans, a temp sensor in the passenger head does. So I am going to try using two different temperature fan switches with the ac over ride when that is turned on.
Just for knowledge, whilst out with the dogs on a potty break, I got out a big block fan shroud and laid it over one of the larger units. Mounting the fan inside the hole and then filling the gap around the two pieces should make for a tidy install on the pickup truck.
There is a lot of information out there on these fans and putting them into other than what they were designed for. I have read that a Vette C6 and a Ford Focus use the same little control module. So a cheap way to control one is again with junkyard parts as seen below. Again, I have no idea if these are correctly drawn to function as I am just getting started.
I totally forgot about the score that Max made the other day at the junkyard!
He wandered off while Paul and I were pulling a stubborn fan from its home.
Came back and said we weren't allowed to look until he told us we could.
He came into view and said to look...
He had found in a 1984 Camaro the yard recently put out had the T-top bag as well as a set of T-tops!
Now the bag is in great shape, just needs some cleanup and elbow grease.
Not exactly the same as the one for a 1992 car, but closer than nothing.
This bag with Body By Fischer and GM on it was observed on Ebay for $200, so score.
They tops need some work as the pins are rusty and don't want to move much without persuasion.
There are also scratches on the under side where they were improperly stored.
But they fit the car and we wanted another set that we could modify anyway.
Definitely some cleanup and detail work to do to them, but these things are expensive to purchase even used.
Once cleaned, we are going to figure out how to make them darker for less light transfer.
Ceramic tint, affixing a shade, straight up painting them on the inside, I am not sure just yet.
That would help with the heat in the car on a hot summer day, maybe.
So these are perfect to work with once we clean them up and get them working like they are supposed too.
One of the ones that came on the car has a broken part of the trim on the front edge, so these will also make that go away.
Hard to see and I never did take an actual photo of it, but you can see the front edge of the T-top looks lifted up cause it is.
Photo from the PO add we bought it from.
So the other day when the kid ran around after DMV showing off the car to whomever, she reported that part of the exhaust fell off.
Crap.
She picked the piece up that went over the axle as it was only tacked in place and not finish welded in place.
Now the part has witness marks on it where it needs more clearance....
So the BFH was employed to provide some axle tube clearance...
Here is the whole thing from the cat connection on the right to the over the axle part on the left.
Now I have to get more gas for my OXY / Acetylene torch set as the inexpensive V-bands seem to have warped even though we had them clamped tight when welding.
So we are going to pour heat into them and them re-clamp them to see if that makes things better.
If that does not work, they may get some muffler glue and them clamped back in to see how long that lasts as I don't want to buy more of them...
That is where we are right now.
Re: 1992 RS Camaro. First car for Der Burger. bruh
Originally Posted by isaacgg
what type of inginiton u use 4 this
Currently the ignition system is totally stock as far as I know.
When the module was replaced recently it was just a stock piece from AutoZone.
Limited Lifetime Warranty is a good thing on these parts.
We have not yet tackled some of the issues under the hood.
So no fancy stuff has been used there other than the new wires that I made.
Just ordered the OSC 951 for my daughters car.
It was all full the other day and then she took it out and drove it all over the place.
Came back and she said that she could hear it bubbling and gurgling when she turned it off.
Checked the overflow and it was empty with remnants of cruddy water coming out of the top of the filler cap.
I looked in the radiator and it was down 1/3rd as well.
The existing radiator is bent and I am sure it is plugged as well due to the awesome PO driving through a hay field.
I was hoping after some flushing it would last until she could change it with her cash money.
Nope.
Since I have very little confidence in the PO's abilities to do much of anything mechanical, I have also ordered several other parts of the cooling system.
They are inexpensive enough and I don't want to have to keep diving back in to fix the next thing.
So also coming along will be a water pump, thermostat, and temperature sensor.
Doing some research here, I went with this one based on the thread starters thoughts on it.
If I had time currently I could start digging in, but alas, I do not.
So I will just have to wait until the weekend and the rest of the parts should be here by then too...
It looks like two 5/8" flat tubes side by side in there.
I can snag my finger nail on the center section of the tubes.
If you squint and turn your monitor too 43 degrees you can imagine that you are seeing a seem that I describe above...
I spy the trans cooler section in there.
Hopefully this will help keep the temperatures in check.
Of course I will have to wait for the coolant system flush stuff to come in so we can clean out the block as well.
It's kinda rusty colored in there and should be warshed out.
I will go to Harborious Freight later this week and pick up a mixing tub that will be placed under the car to catch all the nasty stuff that comes from the car.
That way I can get rid of it properly and not let it get into the ditch.
Also much easier to get it in the tub than trying to aim into a bucket when it is coming out of multiple places...
09-11-2024, 06:08 PM
