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I'm so excited!!! Yesterday, I drove 3 hours to Michigan City, IN to pick up my new to me 3rd Gen Camaro!. It's been 16-17 years since I last owed one, and the first time to own a Z28. Got a great price on it that I was not going to pass up.
Here is what it is:
1985 Chevrolet Camaro Z28
5.0L TPI
Rear Disc Brakes
Automatic
T-Tops
Power everything including Driver Seat
I'll go through the RPO Codes and list all of the options on this thread later.
He bought the car from the daughter of the 2nd owner, after he passed away on Christmas Day last year. The Z28 was sitting for 13 years in a garage. 2nd owner bought it in 1996, and according to the Illinois Title, he bought it from the original owner. Title shows under Type of Title as Original. When the guy I bought it from bought the Z28, he was going to strip it down to get parts he needed to rebuild his 84 Z28, but changed his mind when he saw how good it still was. So he took off the louvers, at my request, because he wanted them and took $200 off the asking price for them. He was going to get it running, but realized that he didn't want to work on 2 different 3rd gens, is what I'm thinking. He already put in a new fuel pump (glad about that, I didn't want to drop the tank!), and he suggested for me to get a new Fuel Pressure Regulator and Ignition Control Module. I mentioned that since it's been garaged since 07, to get new Fuel Injectors with the other items.
I would say that it is 75-85% original. The 5 digit Odometer shows 20166.7, I'm sure it's over 100k and I'm hoping it's not over 200k. The Illinois Title doesn't list Odometer Reading. Though the original paint is not black, I'll have to look through the RPO codes to get the actual color, but it doesn't matter, I'm just excited to have another 3rd Gen Camaro! I just messaged him this morning to thank him again for the sale & the help to get it on the trailer. I mentioned to him about TGO and he's been a member since 2012. I made a friend with him, and he said to add him on Facebook so we can keep in touch.
Thanks for reading this thread, and now on to the picture adding;
Bad Wolf (formerly mwclarksr)
Last edited by DontBlnkBadWolf; 08-18-2022 at 02:19 PM.
Reason: Changed Thread title
I would definitely go back with the original colors, that dark blue and gold is nice. I don’t think I’ve ever seen that combo
That was a photo I found on the net that shows the Dark Blue original factory color. I don't know if this Z28 had different ground effects color or not. Gold is an interesting and decent looking but I don't know if I would do that. I'm not doing a full blown restoration, too much money in it, but I do want to make it run and look good for late spring/summer/early fall cruising fun. I finally want to park a car when others park to show off their rides.
Well, I just bought the Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Ignition Control Module. Also bought a new set of Door & Hatch Locks, and Ignition cylinder everything with new keys. Since the TPI Plenum was removed, I got a new gasket set and a sweet looking Throttle Body Plate found here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/254221102810
I got new Rear Hatch Hydraulic Arms and a Transmission Filter Kit. Going to use my next 3 day weekend, in 2 weeks, to put it all together. Man, it's great to be working on a 3rd gen, again!
That was a photo I found on the net that shows the Dark Blue original factory color. I don't know if this Z28 had different ground effects color or not. Gold is an interesting and decent looking but I don't know if I would do that. I'm not doing a full blown restoration, too much money in it, but I do want to make it run and look good for late spring/summer/early fall cruising fun. I finally want to park a car when others park to show off their rides.
Yeah I brain farted on that I see what you were saying now. I use to hate gold but in the last year or so it’s grown on me when mixed with the right colors.
This car is a members here (forget who) and it’s the car that changed my mind on gold.
Like I mentioned, mine was originally Dark Blue. Well, found out the the Ground Effects were factory painted Silver. Seen it on the T/As, don't think I'll like it. I'm not going with Gold, either. I'll just have them painted the Dark Blue.
The 5 digit Odometer shows 20166.7, I'm sure it's over 100k and I'm hoping it's not over 200k.
Just push the soft dents out, give it a coat of wax and lets get it nominated for COTM. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/auto...cotm-self.html A little thing like a rolled over odometer never kept anyone from claiming a car was low mileage.
Just push the soft dents out, give it a coat of wax and lets get it nominated for COTM. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/auto...cotm-self.html A little thing like a rolled over odometer never kept anyone from claiming a car was low mileage.
Looks like the start of a fun project!
That's funny that you just said that. I was thinking at work last night that I could say it's 20k miles on this car. But then I remember that I already posted what I think it is. I would have to track down the original owner to find out what mileage they sold it at, I don't know where to begin. I would say IL BMV but IDK.
Well, while I am waiting for parts to arrive, I pulled out a part that I bought 19 years ago and can finally put it on a 3rd Gen. I bought it for my RS but, never put it on. Here's some pictures of what I put on.
Here we have a broken, sun faded grill. Sun destroyed it and made it very brittle. Had to go!
Now it is starting to look better. Old grill broke off into several pieces. Front Z-28 License Plate holder is still good and I will be selling for dirt cheap, or just for shipping.
And here is what I bought to put on my RS 19 Years ago. I did a crappy job of painting the Maxie Pad.....I mean.....Bow Tie gold. It will change when I get the body work and painting done on him.
6 Stainless Steel self tapping screws later and it looks 10 times better.
When I bought this 19 years ago, I got this one instead of the one that has Camaro on it. Good thing I got it this way, most of the IROCs and Zs got them that way And I don't recall anything coming out of the factory with the Bow Tie instead of Camaro. Since mine is not an IROC, this one works better, IMHO.
Thanks for the info, I did not know that. So now mine is going to look strange with it on. Oh well, it's mine, and I'm strange, so my Z should match me perfectly.
Thanks for the info, I did not know that. So now mine is going to look strange with it on. Oh well, it's mine, and I'm strange, so my Z should match me perfectly.
It won't look strange at all! I actually prefer the cleanliness of the bowtie grille.
Congrats on that beautiful car. Nice Save.I looked at a blue and gold 86 Z28 but my girlfriend who is now my wife was against it. Due to just having a child.
Congrats on that beautiful car. Nice Save.I looked at a blue and gold 86 Z28 but my girlfriend who is now my wife was against it. Due to just having a child.
I have since found out that it was, indeed, Dark Blue w/Silver N90 Wheels, Silver Ground Effects, Tri-color Blue body stripes (4th stripe was black I think. 85s had 4 stripes for Z28s)
Originally Posted by BIRD91ZRAG
Nice deal!
What part of IN are you in? I'm up in the Fort...
Plainfield, 3 miles away from the Indianapolis International Airport.
I looked at all of the Regional Boards, there is one for the Mid-West (Doesn't list Indiana) and one for NW Indy and Chicago Suburbs, but not a single one for Central Indiana or, for that matter, Indiana at all, except for NW Indiana. Maybe we don't care about them here, But I kinda do.
I know it won't match the Dark Blue paint, whenever I get that far, but it still will look nice. I'm still winding down from my 8 hour round trip to Marion, OH. I drove there to get a TPI Set-Up from fellow member Stock-3864, I had to get one because the original on mine was really not taken care of. Plus, some bolts snapped and I just don't feel like extracting them currently. I'll do that at a later date so I can have the original as a spare unit, or to sell. Below is the picture of the set up taken by Stock-3864, I am just lazy and tired. I drove that 8 hours after working my 12 hour shift. It's hard for me to go to sleep, I have to take prescriptions to help me. Which is what I am getting ready to do so I can finally sleep. I've been awake since 5:45 p.m. Thursday.
****UPDATED 01 MAY 2020**** ****CHANGED INFORMATION****
Here is the RPO Code list for my Z-28
AC3 – ADJUSTER, SEAT, 6-WAY POWER, BUCKET, DRIVER
AG9 – ADJUSTER, SEAT, POWER, 6-WAY AM9 - SEAT ASM, RR SPLIT BACK FOLD DOWN AR9–SEAT ASM, FRT BKT RECL (EUROPEAN STYLE) AU3–LOCK, SI DR ELEC A01–GLASS, TINTED (ALL WDOS) A31–WINDOW, ELEC CONT A90–LOCK, RR COMPT LID, REM CONT, ELEC REL
BS1 – INSULATION, ACOUSTICAL B18 – ORNAMENT, DLX INTR B34 –MATS, FRT FLR (CARPET INSERT) B35 – MATS, RR FLR (CARPET INSERT) B48 – TRIM,LUG COMPT (DLX) B84 –MOLDING, BODY SI (BLACK)
B9K – ORNAMENTATION, BODY SIDE MOLDING, REAPPLY TO REAR DOORS ONLY B94 – EMBLEM, BODY (VAR 1) B97 –MOLDING, EXTR LWR ACCENT
CC1 – ROOF, HATCH, REMOVABLE PANELS, GLASS
CD4 – WIPER SYSTEM, WINDSHIELD, PULSE
C4D – GVW RATING, 5,500 LBS
C49 – DEFOGGER, REAR WINDOW, ELECTRIC
C60 – AIR CONDITIONER, FRONT, MANUAL CONTROLS
DG7 – MIRROR, OUTSIDE, RH AND LH REMOTE CONTROL, ELECTRIC (PAINTED)
DK6 – INTERIOR, CONSOLE, ROOF
D03 – PAINT, PROCESS, WATER BASE
D27 – COVER, REAR COMPARTMENT STOWAGE
D34 – MIRROR, VISOR VANITY
D42 – COVER, REAR COMPARTMENT SECURITY (SHADE)
D6E – GEAR-SPEEDO DRIVEN
D80 – EXTENSION, REAR END PANEL (SPOILER)
D88 – DECAL, STRIPE, SPORT
E5Z – SPEEDOMETER ADAPTER (DELETE)
E7Z – SENSOR, VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR (DELETE)
E9Z – SPEEDOMETER KEY (DELETE)
GC5 – RIGHT REAR FENDER HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
GC6 – LEFT REAR FENDER HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
GU5 – AXLE, REAR, 3.23 RATIO
J65 – BRAKE SYSTEM, POWER, FRONT AND REAR DISC
K34 – CRUISE CONTROL, AUTOMATIC, ELECTRONIC
K90 – GENERATOR, 108 AMPERE
LB9 – ENGINE, 5.0L (5.0F), V8 FI (TPI, 1985-92)
MD8 – TRANSMISSION, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED (THM700R4/4L60)
MX0 – MERCHANDISED, TRANSMISSION, AUTO PROVISIONS, OVERDRIVE
NA5 – EMISSION SYSTEM, FEDERAL REQUIREMENTS
NK3 – STEERING WHEEL, SPORT, SOFT RIM, SIMULATED LEATHER
N33 – STEERING COLUMN, TILT TYPE
N90 – WHEEL, 15X7 (CAST ALUMINUM)
QAC – TIRE, ALL P235/60VR15/N BL P/PE ST TL HWY
TR9 – LAMP, GROUP
TT4 – HEADLAMPS, HALOGEN, 4
T63 – ALARM, HEADLAMPS ON WARNING SYSTEM
T93 – TAIL AND STOP LAMP, SMOKED
UA1 – BATTERY, HEAVY DUTY
UE8 – CLOCK, ELECTRIC, DIGITAL
UP8 – RADIO, STEREO INSTALLMENT PROVISIONS
UX1 – RADIO, AM/FM STEREO, CASSETTE, EQUALIZER, ETR, INCLUDES CLOCK
U05 – HORN, DUAL
U21 - CLUSTER, INSTRUMENT (OIL, COOLANT, TEMP, VOLT, TACH, TRIP ODOMETER)
U25 – LAMP, INSTRUMENT REAR COMPARTMENT, COURTESY
U26 – LAMP, INSTRUMENT, ENGINE COMPARTMENT, COURTESY
U29 – LAMP, INSTRUMENT, INTERIOR PASSENGER COMPARTMENT, COURTESY
U79 – SPEAKER SYSTEM, 4, DUAL FRONT COAX, DUAL EXTENDED RANG PACKAGE SHELF
VAN – ASSEMBLY PLANT, VAN NUYS, CA
VK3 – LICENSE PLATE, FRONT MOUNTING PACKAGE
V73 – ANTENNA, FIXED YE2 –RADIO, STEREO, CASSETTE, CLOCK, S/S, EQUALIZER
YR2 – SEAT FRONT, DELUXE
YS2 – REAR SEAT, DELUXE
YT1 – BUILD UP DOOR AND QUARTER
YT9 – OPTION PACKAGE, FISHER FURNISHED PARTS
Z28 - OBVIOUSLY
1AA – SALES INCENTIVE, RETAIL AMENITIES (DELETE)
1AZ – ORDER MODIFICATION, CUSTOMER ORDERED VEHICLE
16P
24A
26L – EXTERIOR COLOR, PRIMARY, DARK BLUE
26U – EXTERIOR COLOR, PRIMARY, DARK BLUE
6ZX – SPRING COMPUTER SELECT, FRONT, LH
7ZX – SPRING COMPUTER SELECT, FRONT, RH
8NM – SPRING COMPUTER SELECT, REAR, LH
82C – TRIM COMBINATION, CLOTH, MEDIUM DARK GRAY
82I – INTERIOR TRIM, MEDIUM DARK GRAY
829 – SEAT BELTS, COLOR, MEDIUM DARK GRAY
9NM – SPRING COMPUTER SELECT, REAR, RH
There are still some that need further research. I did get a Parts & Illustration Catalog for 82-85 that was revised in June of 86. I found another one to get that covers 82-87, I'm sure there are RPO changes there. But, I'll find out.
Good to know another Dark blue Z28 gets a second lease on life. Cool to feel your excitement through your posts. Keep it up. Is it just me or is there a rash of people posting here about getting back on the thirdgen wagon after 20 years or so?
It took a few years after trading mine off to get me to miss what I had. Maybe it's a case that I'm a year away from being 50 but, it's nice to have another. Sure, it's not currently running and I'm getting irritated that I can't reach Y-pipe bolts and engine mount bolts but I'm still glad I got another one.
All this time I’ve been shopping for parts, so let’s start talking about what I have gotten for it so far. Let’s start with the engine. Let me take you back to the reason why I had to get an engine, when I got the car, the upper Intake (Plenum) was off and in the passenger seat, the engine did turn over, so at least I knew that it wasn’t locked up. But it needed an Ignition Control Module, and since it had been sitting for 13 years, I figured it needed a new Fuel Pressure Regulator and new Injectors. Well, while trying to remove the runners, I ****ed up the Intake. So, that led me to buy, from a TGO member, a TPI setup for the 85 heads.
Now, here we are, different TPI setup, let’s start removing the intake bolts. Well, I’ll be damned if the torx (star) bit didn’t snap off in one of the bolts. This is not looking good, bad luck is following me so far. Hey, what’s this, another 305 TPI for sale? With the harness and ECM? Awesome! So, a drive to outside Chicago to pick it up, good luck this time, it’s a 90-92 engine, that means Speed Density (SD). Now you are caught up with the reason for another engine. I do have a list of things that I have bought, some I need but there is a few that I no longer need because of this engine being SD but, I’ll never know if I’ll need them, so I’m keeping what I don’t need (I’m a pack-rat), maybe.
So, where am I at currently with everything? Well, I have started taking things off the replacement 305, AIR Tubes and hoses for the Smog Pump, took off the upper intake and Runners, drained the oil & now it’s ready to go on the engine stand so I can finish prepping it before installation. I still need to take out the engine that’s currently in the car.
Now for some items that I bought or am going to get tomorrow (Sat 5/9/2020).
Pair of electric doors $100 – Tomorrow
AC Delete box OEM $50 – Tomorrow
168 Tooth Flexplate (new) $33 – Delivered
Console Lid $55 – Delivered
Lock Pawls $25 – Delivered – Side note: The day after I had them delivered, I found 2 old locks that I kept from years past.
Cargo Cover Lock $25 – Delivered
A.I.R. Tube Exhaust Manifold Plugs $13 - Delivered
Parts from Rock Auto
Small Distributor Cap & Rotor
Spark Plugs & Wires
There are some other odds ‘n ends but, I’ve been awake for 26 hours now, and made a 6 hour round trip to OH & back. Gotta be awake for the 11 hour round trip to IL in the morning. I’ll add more to this thread when I get back (including pictures), if I’m not exhausted.
So, this is what I have scored on my Saturday road trip. My Saturday road trip was close to 11 hours to 2 places in IL. The 1st stop was to pick up, N.I.B. Headman headders & Y-Pipe for $150. Which was a great score.
The headders & Y-Pipe is an investment that I was going to do down the road this summer because the cost was something that I couldn’t have done right away. Even though I knew it would have been better to get them and put them on before putting in the replacement engine (putting the headders on before, not both the headders & Y-Pipe). I remember that I had a bitch of a time trying to put on headders on an installed engine in my ’91 RS 18 years ago. I’m just glad that I found this.
2nd stop, 90 minutes away from my 1st stop, but, it was closer to my home state of IN, was a pair of powered doors for $100 and an A/C delete box for $50.
The doors and heater box: I needed a replacement drivers’ door because of the huge dent in the middle of it, slowing down the window going up or down. I didn’t need the passenger door but, for $100, it doesn’t hurt to have a backup. The Heater box was a bonus from the door seller. About a week ago, I decided that I would go ahead and remove all of the A/C components in the engine bay. I am only going to run my car in the nice weather, sure, in the summer it would be useful. But, with 2 windows down and the T-Tops removed, that’s plenty of air conditioning flowing through the car. I do have to repair a hole in the box before installing it & I have to get the heater only controls. But again, I’m only running the car on nice days, so no real hurry to get the controls.
What I had failed to mention, for reasons of "OTHERS" on TGO telling me what to get against my wishes (because they did not want to listen to me when I created a thread on the Engine/Drivetrain section), I drove to outside of Cincinnati and bought a 350 block. This block was already 30 over and was in really good shape. This was an older 2 pc. RMS block, and after 2 days, I was already regretting my choice. The guy I bought it off of had a 1 pc. RMS 350 block for $10 less and I should have gotten that one instead. I wanted a Hyd. Roller block for what I plan to do. In my next post I will explain further why I got the block and what I did on Sunday to change the outcome.
Alright, so let’s talk about the engine. As all of you know (at least the ones that have been reading this thread) my original engine is a LB9. What my plan was, to rebuild the motor and maybe try to get more HP out of it. By either getting a one step better than stock Camshaft and/or maybe stroking it. Because it can & has been done before and, not to mention, has actually gotten some good HP out of it.
What’s the problem with that?
Nothing at all, my engine, my choice. I wanted to keep the original motor in it. No harm in that. So, I created a thread on the Engine/Drivetrain section of TGO. I had a simple explanation of my plan, with a simple question of suggestions on how about to do this and what would be the best quality/price. I even said several times to please respect my wishes and not tell me to get a freakin’ 350, LTx or LSx because, I don’t want that. But, do those butt-munchers listen (or even know how to read what I typed)? Hell no, not only do they go against what I repeatedly said, I was labeled nothing short as “Hitler”. Sure, I was never called that, but the way everyone bitched at me for even thinking that, you would swear that I was the evilest person in the history of mankind. I even explained why I like the 305 over the 350. Did that matter? Again, to those that commented, hell no. After the 4th or 5th time telling those jack-holes that I don’t want comments about getting a 350, I deleted every post I made and said that I removed my subscription to my own thread. So, they could comment all they want and it wouldn’t matter to me. Do I still like the 305 over the 350? You bet I do, that will never change. So, let me write up how I got to this junction. And, nope, it had nothing to do with anybody on the website on why I went out and got a 350 block. I bought it because a bought it, no one gave me the idea or reasons why I should get one.
Because of the issue (that I have explained before) of what has happened to the original 305, I started looking for replacement 305s on FB Marketplace and Craigslist. Found a few on FB, one was a very clean GM Goodwrench 305 that had 21K original miles on it for $600 (https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...5152594797801/).Anyway, I did find a replacement 305, turns out to be a 90-92 Speed Density TPI with Harness & ECM. Which is great because I want to go with the Dynamics EFI EBL system. Easier with the SD harness instead of re-pinning my original harness (which I still may end up doing just to sell it for a little recoup of what I have spent so far). Going with the EBL system has opened the door to an easier why of tuning for me. Won’t have to learn the programming chips, buying the flashers to burn chips. Won’t have to hunt down the ever-decreasing stock required chips. Just plug in the ECM to a laptop and run the program and I’m done with a few clicks. Get the results in real time.
That led me to thinking about how much HP do I want at the flywheel. What would get me to that number safely and best way. Also had to think on how long do I want to take on this, for which I replied to myself “Over the Nov. 2020 – March 2021 months. No need to rush this” Then my next question was “Do I really want to take out this replacement 305 and rebuild it and rebuild it to what?” I had come to the conclusion, on my own, that I just want to see what some of the costs are when it comes to doing things with a 350. Actually, not much on price difference. When it comes to me, I’m a cheap bastard, I’ll try to get things with the least amount of money. In no way am I saying that I will cheap out on quality, though. I want to do it right the first time, not throw money at it a 2nd time. So, I started searching for a 350. I found one back in early March, $50 350 bare block 60 over. During the beginning stages of my State’s travel restrictions during this CCP (Chinese Communist Party) Virus spread and that caused me to miss out on buying it. It was a good thing though, reading up I found that being 60 over already meant that it was at the max on bore size. Yes, it could go more, but why risk thin wall failure? Over time, I was looking at everything and researching more. Read somewhere that Hydraulic Rollers were better than the Hydraulic Flat Tappet. Then I started looking for the 87 & up engines. During this time, I was looking more into Truck motors for 4 bolt mains, then I discovered that the tucks didn’t get Hydraulic Rollers until 95. That put a stop to looking into truck motors. Why? I don’t want to pay for Vortec Heads when I’m not going to use them. I stared looking into short blocks. That’s when I started looking into doing a Stroker. What was involved in doing it? Read up on that too, found out that I could go with a 2 Bolt Main for a Stroker and it can handle (according to several different site visits) up to 600HP safely. There was a debate going on some of the sites on if that number was with or without splaying the caps. Never did get a definitive answer on that. People just kept going back and forth on the matter.
Now we jump to a little over a week ago. Craigslist posting of a 350 Block w/ Crank for $90 just outside of Cincinnati. A couple of pictures were posted, but that didn’t give me the answer to the Hyd. Roller question. After contacting, turns out it was a Roller. Good was my reply but I could go to get it for a week, for lack of funds. Staying in contact during that time, the seller mentioned that if this block sells before I can get there, he has another block that was already 30 over for $100. But it wasn’t a Roller block. I wanted roller but wouldn’t pass up a 30 over block, for which I told him. After driving there, the Roller block was still there, but I bought the 30 over block instead.
Well, yesterday morning (Sunday), I got to thinking about it more. I really wanted a Roller block and I didn’t want to have to get a retro roller camshaft kit to make it a roller. Besides, I started looking into a shop out in CA that is considered the “Home of the Stroker” according to a Super Chevy article titled “Chevy Small-Block Engine Stroker Kit – Shoestring Stroker” (http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/pro...y-stroker-kit/). Enginekits.com is the place (https://www.enginekits.com/). Looking at their kits, there is one that I could add options. Head options are some addons that I could do. Then it got to 1 pc or 2 pc RMS, well, I already know that a 1 pc is better. Then it got to Cam option, they listed both but, reading in that Super Chevy article, they explain why Roller is better. But that still meant, I have the wrong block for what I want. Alright, I made up my mind, I had to sell the block and now find a different block that is a Roller.I listed the block on FB for $125 (the extra $25 was to cover my fuel for the trip I made to get the block), and it didn’t take long before I had a few guys wanting the block. I did write in the listing that I was wanting a Roller block and it didn’t matter if it was 2 or 4 bolt main. One guy, an hour away, messaged me telling me that he has a Roller block that is 40 over. Needs new main caps but wanted to do a straight trad because he wants the older block and not a Roller block. That was great so, that’s what I did on Sunday. Exchanged my block for another. Which will now make it a 384.568 (385) Stroker instead of a 382.667 (383). For which I think that’s what the Fast Burn 385s are anyway.
So, there you have it. That is what I did on Sunday. Nothing happening for the next few days, I have to work.
I hear you there. You want what you want, and there's nothing wrong with that. That said, there is no replacement for displacement. 385 ci should put a smile on your face, and that's what it's all about.
DR.K.
This was my only day off from work this week. Next day off is next Monday. But I was productive today on the replacement motor. Took off the Exhaust Manifolds, Spark Plugs and Fuel Rail. I also removed the Alternator to get it tested, it tested great. I already have new Injectors and Spark Plugs. The intake is disgusting, I think I'm going to take it off and then take it to a sand blasting shop along with the plenum, runners & the extra set of N90s I have. Here is the pictures of the engine after what I removed today:
I think I am also going to remove all of the seats and sell them and keep the High Back seats I'm trying to sell. I actually like them, not the purple inlays mind you, but the style. They remind me of the 2nd Gen seats. And I'm not putting in different rear seats, my two teenage sons are too tall to fit into a tiny back seat. The rear seat don't have much functionality anyway, my thoughts are building a compartment for storage. But those are just my beginning thoughts on that matter.
Not much else to add right now, kinda stuck in limbo until I get the bung welded onto the driver's headder for the O2 Sensor. I'll post something when I do something.
Well, today was my day off. Got off work at 7am and haven't been to sleep yet. And the Thunderstorms didn't let me do anything else. That's it, nothing else to report.
Well, today was a productive day. I didn't get a chance to go part shopping because of an unexpected bill my wife created. But first let me tell you about a guy contacting me through Facebook wanting to buy the LT1 Reman Starter that I am currently selling for $165. As I listed it on TGO and FB Marketplace, it is a new reman starter that I have never put on and have had it for 15 years, it was either 05 or 06 that I bought it. Anywho, I looked it up because I bought it at Advance Auto back then, the starter is now labeled a Car Quest brand, I think I payed $225 to $250 back then (can't remember for I have slept since then). But it's currently being sold at Advance for $190 + $40 core. So, this guy messages me asking what the lowest I would go, I replied $145. He replied if I would take $80. He's high, I replied back that I would not, to which he said he can get a new one for $145. Duh, mine is new, just been sitting in storage for 15 years. His reply How about $100? I left the conversation.
Back to today (meaning Saturday the 23rd). I was productive on the replacement engine today, what I did was clean the surfaces of where the intake gaskets contact the block. I was also put in a happy mood when I discovered that the TPI Setup Intake that I bought from @Stock-3864 was actually from a 87+ Engine. He mentioned to me that is was for the 85-86 Heads but when I just set the intake in place to see how much elongating needed to be done to the 2 center bolt holes on both sides, the holes lined up perfectly. Now I can use that nicely sandblasted one instead. Here is what the surfaces look like during the cleaning process and after.
During cleaning After Cleaning 01 After Cleaning 02 After Cleaning 03
After that was done, I moved on to more removal of parts to be replaced:
After that, I noticed that the Oil Pan is beat up all to hell so, now I have to either find a good used one or, buy a new one. If I buy a new one then it could be put on the new engine after rebuild. After all of that, I wrapped it up for the day. Won't be able to do anymore until this Wednesday. I have to work Sunday - Tuesday. Yes, I have to work Memorial Day, which is fine because I will be getting 12 hours paid at Double Time & a 1/2.
I never really minded working on holidays. I always looked at that extra half-pay as "car part money". Many of the companies I worked at would pay double.
must have been a craigslister that wanted to pay you so little for the new starter. I always get the most rediculous offers from them. I think a lot of them don't live in the same reality as we do. Engine is looking good 👍.
DR.K.
I never really minded working on holidays. I always looked at that extra half-pay as "car part money". Many of the companies I worked at would pay double.
must have been a craigslister that wanted to pay you so little for the new starter. I always get the most rediculous offers from them. I think a lot of them don't live in the same reality as we do. Engine is looking good 👍.
DR.K.
Also I think that he was hoping that I am hurting for money because of what is happening to everyone else. But I am an essential worker so I am not hurting for money.
First off, anyone else seeing the following in random posts?
All of a sudden it started showing up in post that I've seen, including mine.
Wednesday was a so-so productive day, I did a test fit of the headders & Y-Pipe to see what the routing was going to be. It's been 20 years since I put on headders and a Y-Pipe on my 90 RS, so I had to see it to remember.
Next, I went ahead and installed the intake after getting new Grade 8 Flange bolts. I first had to remove a little bit of surface rust that appeared because I forgot to put on a little bit of coating on the surfaces, after that the install was easy and quick. Thus confirming that the setup I had bought thinking it was for the pre-87 heads, is actually for the post-87 heads.
I now have to wait for a new set of locking clips that fit on the injectors for rail installation. Also waiting for the 9th Injector block off plate. Have to take the Plenum and other items to the sandblasting shop. There are other parts that I'm waiting for, like the replacement sensors that I mentioned on my other thread "Name That Sensor!" Oh, I can't forget, I also ordered a new Oil Pan that I can pick up today (Thursday) as soon as I'm notified that it is ready for pickup.
Well, it's 8 minutes after 2 in the morning, I'm going to go see what else I can damage or accomplish.
Last edited by DontBlnkBadWolf; 05-28-2020 at 01:18 AM.
First off, anyone else seeing the following in random posts?
Well, it's 8 minutes after 2 in the morning, I'm going to go see what else I can damage or accomplish.
I have noticed the"glitch" as well. Curious.
I know all about the 2am thing. Lately the temps have been well over 105 degrees during the day, and the only way to get things done is to do them in the middle of the night 😁. Someday, I will finish my air-conditioned shop, and then the world will be right again.
DR.K.
I have noticed the"glitch" as well. Curious.
I know all about the 2am thing. Lately the temps have been well over 105 degrees during the day, and the only way to get things done is to do them in the middle of the night 😁. Someday, I will finish my air-conditioned shop, and then the world will be right again.
DR.K.
My 2am thing is because I work a rotating 12 hour shift 7pm-7am. I've always been a night person, not much of a daylight person. I'm glad someone else has seen the glitch, I was worried I picked up a virus. Maybe from China or something.
Alight, another 1/2 way productive day, I was able to get that nipple off of the intake.
Can't say that Kroil did it's job, and I can't say it didn't. But I do know that Kroil with a propane torch did the job.
New parts arrived. Temp Gauge Sender, Coolant Temp Sensor, Serp Belt.
And a new Dorman Oil Pan made in China.
My question on things made in China: Do they come with a pre-loaded Virus?
I love the live focus on my phone, it adds a nice DOF (Depth of Field) to them. Crazy that I don't like DOF in the games that I play, but like it on my pictures. I'm ordering a custom chip that removes the VATS and EGR. I'll get the Dynamics EFI for the Stroker, don't need that expense right now.
Anywho, nothing done today, waiting for more parts before I can continue putting it back together. I still need to drop off parts to the Sandblaster place & that'll be Monday for the Friday pickup. I work the next 2 nights. I'm taking my normal 3rd day (Sunday) off. Been working to many hours and it's catching up with this 49 Y.O. body. It'll give me 3 days off. My Ram is overheating so, I need to change the thermostat. I haven't seen any coolant in the cab, so it's not the heater core. I'm hoping it's not, I really don't want to spend my 3 days off removing the dash even though I need to because the blower motor is going out. I only have high fan as an option.
Last edited by DontBlnkBadWolf; 05-29-2020 at 01:51 AM.
Reason: Hit post reply when I wasn't done. Doh!!
No worries. Looks like you are getting things done. My daily drivers (99 suburban and 04 Chevy cc dually) are constantly getting in the way of my projects, especially as the heat ramps up.
DR.K.
No worries. Looks like you are getting things done. My daily drivers (99 suburban and 04 Chevy cc dually) are constantly getting in the way of my projects, especially as the heat ramps up.
DR.K.
Yeah, the first thing I had to do when I got off work this morning, was change the Thermostat on my Ram. After I let it cool down after a couple of hours. Ram was rapidly overheating, and putting in a new stat did the trick like I knew it would. Though changing a stat on an older vehicle was easier. Everything up top on a 3rd gen or older motor, Ford and Dodge the same. Not on my 02 Ram, oh no, it had to be on the bottom of the engine. PITA, but I got it done.
Yesterday was a productive day for the most part. I didn't do anything to the replacement engine, I'm still waiting for a few more parts. Instead, I started taking things off the car. I removed some more of the A/C, got the Y-Pipe unbolted and removed the starter and soaked down the engine mount bolts in Kroil. Going to try and remove them today and see what I want to move on from there. Though I think it'll be time to drain the coolant, start getting bolts loosened on the front bumper and fenders. Maybe remove the radiator and some other things. I'm getting ready to drop off the parts at the sandblasting place. There are a lot of things that need to be blasted and set up the pickup day for Friday.
The Intake and the Runners are extra parts that I'm having blasted for selling, I have a total of 2 extra set of runners, 1 for Cold Start and 1 is not. 1 Extra Intake and 2 extra Plenums, 1 for Cold Start and 1 is not, I do have the Fuel Rails (again, one is for Cold Start the other is not) and Throttle Bodies, One of the Rails is in 2 halves but nothing missing except a few Injectors. I'll lay them all out after the blasting and I'll take pictures then. I'm not going to ask for a stupid amount, there are too many out there for a stupid amount and I just want to sell them and not keep them forever. I'm about to do that with all of my stuff listed for sale. Modest price drop, I need to get rid of these things. There are a few items that I haven't listed because I might use them at some point.
As for the extra set of N90s that I'm going to have blasted and I'm going to repaint them myself. That wouldn't be the first time I have done it, here are some pictures of the wheels I painted for my Ram. During the process After the first wheel that I painted, I found it easier laying down the Flame Red first and masking that off to lay down the Graphite. Centercaps Before final touch-up 2nd wheel before touch-up Finalized with a Matte Clearcoat
That's it for now, time for some eggs before driving to the blaster. I'll be back to post what I did today later.
Nice! I might be interested in some of those parts for my son's firebird. Getting them sandblasted is a nice touch. Helps a lot. I used a polish on mine for my'86 IROC. Wouldn't do that again.
DR.K.
Nice! I might be interested in some of those parts for my son's firebird. Getting them sandblasted is a nice touch. Helps a lot. I used a polish on mine for my'86 IROC. Wouldn't do that again.
DR.K.
I would assume that you would want the sandblasted parts, the ones that are sandblasted are the Cold Start. I will be using the Rail and Runners that are Cold Start, I have another Rail for Cold Start and Runners that are not. And like I mentioned, I have another Rail in 2 Halves. 2 extra Plenums, 1 of them Blasted are both for MAF. The 3rd one that I dropped off yesterday is MAP, which I am going to be using. Also have both TBs, neither are blasted. So, to sum up, I have 3 TPI Setups. 2 are for MAF & Cold Start the 3rd is MAP. Since I bought a Cold Start Delete kit, I will be using 1 Cold Start Rail (Since I already replaced the FPR and Injectors), 1 pair of Cold Start Runners, the MAP Plenum and Cold Start Intake (Since it's already bolted to the engine).
So, If I can ever get that broken Torx Bit out of that one intake bolt off the original engine, I'll take that to get blasted along with the last set of Runners and Plenum. PM me when you think you might want the parts, I'll be paying around $75 for all of the parts that are being blasted, which on Friday, when I get the actual total. Then, I'll brake the dollar amount down by piece and we can discuss price after that adjustment. And it shouldn't be that much price p/piece. I dropped off quite a bit of engine parts. I'll be taking pictures of all of the parts when I get them back home on Friday.
Last edited by DontBlnkBadWolf; 06-02-2020 at 06:56 AM.
Reason: Added more information
This will be a somewhat daily thing for me, updating my Blue on Black thread. The only times that it won't be daily are the nights that I have to work. As for yesterday's progress: I did nothing! LOL, when I woke up yesterday morning, I was expecting to do some more work but, I was still tired from the 30 hours I stayed awake the day before. After I dropped off the parts for blasting, stopped by a junkyard to see if I could find any fenders. 3-3rd gens there, 1 Berlinetta, 1 RS & 1 Bird. Fenders were gone on the Camaros, Berlinetta still had the Digital Dash intact. I almost took all of it off to see if anyone here wanted them, but I didn't. No need to waste time and money on parts that I don't need. I did almost take off the rear hatch off of 1 Camaro, it was for a 3rd Brake light spoiler (spoiler removed, but I have one in my garage), I'm considering changing mine to that option. I always thought that the spoiler with the 3rd brake light looked good. Never liked the ones with it on the hatch glass, internal or externally mounted.
Have to get some blood-work done today for the Doctor, then I'll come back and get those engine mount bolts removed. I'll update at the end of my day, which could be around 4 a.m. tomorrow morning. I work Wed & Thurs so, I'll be staying up all night.
nice build, it looked better when you towed it home than my bird did - one thing I would suggest- send headers and Y off to be high temp coated, the paint will burn right off and rust- ugh rusty headers are a peeve of mine - carry on!
I would assume that you would want the sandblasted parts, the ones that are sandblasted are the Cold Start. I will be using the Rail and Runners that are Cold Start, I have another Rail for Cold Start and Runners that are not. And like I mentioned, I have another Rail in 2 Halves. 2 extra Plenums, 1 of them Blasted are both for MAF. The 3rd one that I dropped off yesterday is MAP, which I am going to be using. Also have both TBs, neither are blasted. So, to sum up, I have 3 TPI Setups. 2 are for MAF & Cold Start the 3rd is MAP. Since I bought a Cold Start Delete kit, I will be using 1 Cold Start Rail (Since I already replaced the FPR and Injectors), 1 pair of Cold Start Runners, the MAP Plenum and Cold Start Intake (Since it's already bolted to the engine).
So, If I can ever get that broken Torx Bit out of that one intake bolt off the original engine, I'll take that to get blasted along with the last set of Runners and Plenum. PM me when you think you might want the parts, I'll be paying around $75 for all of the parts that are being blasted, which on Friday, when I get the actual total. Then, I'll brake the dollar amount down by piece and we can discuss price after that adjustment. And it shouldn't be that much price p/piece. I dropped off quite a bit of engine parts. I'll be taking pictures of all of the parts when I get them back home on Friday.
That sounds good. We will be wanting the cold start/MAF setup. No big hurry on those parts, either. Whenever you are ready, is fine with us. Thank you! We really appreciate it.
DR.K.
As promised, here are the Post-Sandblasting pictures. I think they turned out great. The MAP Plenum and the Runners that I will be keeping for use, I may paint them Graphite with a Clear Matte Finish.
I may even paint the Valve Covers the same way. I still have to take the non Cold Start Runners, Cold Start Runners, Perimeter Bolt Valve Covers, 3rd Plenum and if I can get my original Intake off (it's been mentioned several times by me), that would be the last of the for sale parts. I'm thinking on getting the fuel rails blasted too. Of course the N90s still need blasted.
I haven't done anything to the car or the replacement engine the past few days, I started cleaning out the garage making room to push the car in. It has to be in the garage before I take off the hood, fenders and front cover for engine removal. I can't do it out in the driveway for fear of the board of health coming by and saying that it's an abandoned vehicle and having it towed. Even though it's on my property, they can do it anyway. I work the next 3 nights (Tue-Wed) so on Thursday, I'll pick up where I left off in the garage.
So, I haven't done anything these past few days. On Saturday, I was making a trip to pick up a 9-bolt when around 10 miles from home my muffler rusted off. Of course no parts store carries direct replacement muffler or tailpipe (It's rusted is a couple of areas also), so I had to order parts for it. Sunday was a mandatory OT night at work, so while I was asleep my youngest son was driving my truck to his friend's house and a hole in one of the brake lines developed a hole. So he got his friend to bring him back home to wake me up and tell me what happened. After getting ready and getting tools, we rode with his friend to where my truck was. Couldn't do anything there and since it wasn't the first time I have driven with bad brakes, I drove my truck home to work on it. After arriving at the homestead, I proceeded to work on the line but, naturally, the fitting was hard to get to and there wasn't anything I could do. And I couldn't got to my mandatory OT for which the penalty points are double for missing a Mandatory. Since I only had $330 remaining in the bank account, I had AAA tow it to Big O Tires on Sunday. Because I had to work Monday & Tuesday night, I guess my subconscious woke me up around 3pm on Monday to check on the progress. My wife wasn't home but her truck was. I drove to BOT (I'm tire of writing out Big O Tires), to get an update, noticing that my truck was parked in the same place as I left it. They told me that they had been backed up all day & my truck was getting ready to go into a bay. I told the guy at the counter about my bank funds and then I left and went back home to sleep some more. I then get a call around 4:15, them telling me that the truck wouldn't be ready until Tuesday and wanted me to authorize the work with the total bill of $452. "Why was it that much?" I asked, to which the response was, after replacing the line, the brake system needs flushed. AGAIN I told them about my funding limit, his reply was that he guesses that the flushing doesn't need to be done, but I should really get it. Reminding him again, I don't have the funds to do that. He said the truck will be done Tuesday. I had to take my wife's truck to work Monday night and on Tuesday morning when I got home, she was awake. I said to here to take my card and her and our youngest son can go pick it up when it's ready.
Tuesday night, I woke up extremely late & had to rush to get to work on time. I get in my truck & take off to work. Noticing that the brakes are spongy, meaning there is air in the brake lines! They didn't bleed the brakes! And I know why they did it, someone that doesn't know how to work on vehicles or doesn't understand some basic functions on vehicles would have gone back to BOT, and said that the brakes felt spongy. To which they would have replied, "Well, a brake line flush would fix that problem." And that person would have agreed to get it done anyway even though they didn't want to in the first place. So, **** them and anyplace else that rips people off.
So, think twice about going to BOT, or anyplace for that matter, before you find out what is wrong with your vehicle. Do your homework, that's what the internet is for. Ask Google why is your vehicle doing (fill in the blanks)? You'll get a big ****ing list of different reasons why and some of them are linked together for that kind of problem. After you read up on the problem, and if you can't fix it yourself, you are now armed with vehicle education to fire back at those ****ing *******s.
I hate that kind of garbage. Gives such a terrible reputation to themselves when they conduct business that way. Hopefully things go better for you.
DR.K.
02-29-2020 | 11:27 AM
That's funny that you just said that. I was thinking at work last night that I could say it's 20k miles on this car. But then I remember that I already posted what I think it is. I would have to track down the original owner to find out what mileage they sold it at, I don't know where to begin. I would say IL BMV but IDK. 
