The CFM on my gun is less than 4, but I also have a binks 7 copy that I might end up using with the clear. I don't think the little lvlp gun willl be able to lay down the clear properly

 

did a lot of taping this morning, and removed one of the inner fender plastics, as well as the rocker molding emblem on the drivers side. I also finished the rust repair on my rear bumper support and put that back on

 

Might be easier to remove the hatch gasket and backtape the pinchweld flange.

 

are those glued in? It's in really good shape, and I hate to mess it up

I'm planning on removing the hatch to clean up and paint the groove. I don't even want to do that, but for as much work as I'm doing, what's a little more labor?

 

Looking forward to see how this turns out.
Painting is one of the things I want to do as well, and prefferably do it myself.

Germany is not quite known as the home of the brave, so there is little support from this side of the pond. There for, any hands on experience someone pictures as well as this is a great help in determining how achieveable my goal is.

Your preperation work looks thorough enough.

 

Not sure. Wouldn't hurt to grab an end and give it a tug.

 

ok, i'll try that. Funny, after doing a little research on it here, it looks like most of the time it's not glued in. I didn't even consider that, but thanks for the suggestion

 

Mine wasnt, it was just joined together at the seam right in the middle of the back with a heat weld and a metal barb thing on the inside.

 

well don't I feel like an idiot. There was a little adhesive on there, but it really lifted right off.

that saved me about a day of taping, I hadn't even gotten to the diffucult part yet

thanks to travis and haps for suggesting it

 

I cut and taped sheets of plastic all morning. took forever, especially the hatch area. I still have to do the entryway to the car on both sides, and the underside of the hatch glass.

I also removed the inner fender shield on the passenger side and the rocker molding.

I'm going to paint the drip moldings and the molding that goes around the hatch tomorrow or or saturday, let those dry, and then mask those off too.

you like my idea of putting pipe insulation around the hatch struts?

 

Looks good.

 

sprayed a little paint today. it's just the moldings around the windows and the hatch, but it feels good to be putting paint on the car. I'll give it overnight to fully cure and harden, and then mask it off so the primer I spray doesn't mess it up.

the real fun stuff starts next week

 

Exciting to see you start the work, I will be following your post. Can't wait to see how nice it turns out. I wish i could paint!

 

Lookin' good, I'll also be curious to see how it turns out.

 

well, don't I feel stupid?

Ok, you've all heard me talk about how I was going to borrow my dad's 33 gallon compressor for the first part of my painting project, and then borrow a friend's compressor when it was time to do the real deal.

I looked up craftsman 33 gallon compressors... 5.1 SCFM @ 90. UG.... so that's why I bought a LVVP grizzly gun with a CFM of 3.9

My friends compressor, 60 gallons, CFM of about 8.2. Gives me a little more breathing room.

Ok, so today is the day I go with my wife and son to help me load the compressor into the truck. Keep in mind this is the compressor that used for months when I painted the 58, but I didn't know CFM from AM/FM then. I never paid attention to it, because we were painting the car in lacquer, in pieces, with no clear.

So we lift the compressor, my son on one wheel, me on the other, and my wife lifting by the handle. What do I see when I get the thing up off the ground?

6HP
SCFM of 15
this may only have a 33 gallon tank on it, but it's got a great motor! I guess craftsman has radically changed what a 33 gallon compressor is, because the ones they sell now only come with a puny 1.6HP engine

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... P?prdNo=12


so in short, I'm still going to try my grizzly because I want to see how it does, but it looks like I could step up to a different gun if needed

 

I started spraying today.

I mixed up about 20 sprayable oz of epoxy, and sprayed some parts that had exposed metal

I really like my LVLP gun! hardly any overspray and it has a great fan. It's amazing for a $50 gun

 

this morning's experiment went so well that I decided to just paint the car over here, instead of moving it over to my dad's house to do the base and clear. the only thing my garage doesn't have is good lighting, so I went out today and bought these... this should help considerably

 

That should do it!

 

havn't put the lights up yet. probably tomorrow.

Today I brushed some epoxy into the gully track of my hatch, put epoxy on the bumpers and chin spoiler, and then followed it up with a light coat of a dark grey mix of epoxy that will more or less match my base coat. I'm using it as a guide coat on the parts I don't want to put high build primer on, like the bumpers. I have almost a quart of that mixed color I'm going to use as a sealer right before I put the base on

Here's a couple of bumper parts. no, I didn't spray them outside, I just put them there to dry in the sun. that should do it

 

ok, i lied....the lights are UP! I even bought another one for the front of the car, just to make use of the ten pack of bulbs I bought. I told my wife I was putting a light there for both the engine bay and front of the car, but also because that corner is really dark, and that's where the washer and dryer are. She loved the idea

 

You can grow tomatoes in there!

 

nah, I don't even like tomatoes! My wife would love it though....

I'm done for the day. Garage is just too hot to continue

today I sprayed my hood hinges and release catch with black epoxy. I know they are supposed to be body color, but I just like them this way. if I change my mind, they are easy to spray later




I also sanded down the epoxy I put on yesterday, and repsprayed the bumpers and chin spoiler. there were some scratches and marks on them that I didn't see until I put the reflective epoxy on. I think they are ready to put on the car now. I'm not going to spray them with high build primer, because epoxy flexes better, and you don't want a lot of thickness on these parts.




the last thing I did was clean and prep the body for the high build. tomorow morning I'm spraying the replacment fenders and hood, and the rest of the body with high build, at least 2 coats, but maybe three on the parts that I had to put filler on.

tomorrow should be fun! Friday morning I'll put on a guide coat so when I start sanding and blocking on monday, everything will be dry and shrunk up as much as it will go.

 

ok, I need to STOP. I was cleaning up my sunroom (where all my parts are... LOL) and I picked up my taillights. One looked good, but on the other one parts of the black were looking a little chalky, and compound wouldn't make them black again.

so I broke out the fine line tape, and I individually taped off every single rectangle so I can paint them black again

If I keep being this picky, I'll never finish this car

 

 

Brilliant. That's exactly what I intend to do. Well done indeed.

 

thanks!

got the high build down today. everything went great, except I noticed there was a dent in one of the fenders that still needs work. I started spraying and thought "how did I miss THAT???"

I've got to let the high build dry, sand that part down and see if I need to break out the filler again

Next on deck, remove the front clip and get the car ready to put the new clip on

 

wow, busy day!

I put on the guide coat, and finished fixing that one bad dpot I found on the fender yesterday.

Then I jacked up the car, took off the front wheels, and took off the front clip. it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be, but it seemed like there were 100 nuts and bolts I had to take off... took a while

guide coat





one naked car

 

The shipping here in Hawaii is outrageous! I bought some universal outer belt mouldings form I think JC whitney for my DD, the shipping was twice the cost the part!

I also wanted to buy a grille for my S10...1Aauto actually called me up and warned me about the shipping price and all other vendors didnt want to ship here....


Anyway , back to topic, great job! Subscribing!

 

Did a lot of cleaning yesterday...

today I decided to take advantage of the hood being off the car to change the cap, rotor, coil, plugs, and wires. they didn't loom exactly like I wanted them too, but that's pretty typical of aftermarket wires.



I also worked on derusting my battery tray. that's another job that's a lot easier with the right fender off the car. I'm hoping tomorrow to spray some base coat on the underside of the hood, around the rear hatch track, and the top of the cowl

My goal is to be ready to spray the entire car a week from monday (august 1st)

 

That why i always get the build 'em yourself plug wires. its not hard, and i can run them exactly where i want.

 

i like your car the way it is, i mean by all means mechanically go for it, but i'd repaint it in the same scheme, i've never seen another one like it and thats all the reason you need to keep it that way

and nice polished intake, wanna paint mine a high gloss red

 

Yep, that's basically what I'm doing. Just replacing the rattlecan with a higher quality paint, and doing body work at the same time.

Thanks for the compliment!

 

sure, hope it turns out nice and lasts a long time, gotta love the 2.8

 

yeah, me too!

Toiday when I changed the spark plugs I was shocked to see that the old ones looked practically brand new. No oil build up on any of them. Mechanically, the engine is very sound, but I have no idea if it's the original engine or not. Someday when it dies I'm probably going to replace it with a 3.4, but that might be a long way off.

 

i'd love to build my 2.8 up and have a fast great handling good looking car, saving for all that now but college costs money

 

I sprayed clear and base today! Didn't take me long at all to dial in the gun. I was worried that the LVLP wouldn't put out enough material, but as you can see I was getting runs on the setup until I adjusted the fluid control.


I sprayed both the base and the clear at about 30PSI with the trigger pulled. I might dial that back to 25 and see what happens. I did get more overspray today that I've seen out the gun before. That might have been my fault for having the pressure so high, but the paint did go on very smooth and even!

yeah, there's a touch of trash in there. I'll admit to getting sick of prepping the underside of the hood. so many nooks and crannys, and it looks like something got dislodged and landed on the surface I was painting

 

Doesn't look bad at all. Most trash can be sanded out. Glad you practiced first. That's the way it should be done if you have limited experience. Well done.

 

thanks. I read somewhere to do my test patten horizontal instead of verticle, and it's easier to see if it's heavy in the middle or the sides, that way you can adjust your gun so it's even all the way across it.

 

WOW! check out this reflection. this is 90 minutes after the second coat. No sanding, or polishing, just a nice flat, beautiful clear. there's less orange peel in this than brand new cars from the dealership

I can't wait to paint and clear the part of the car that actually will prep properly. It should look even better. All I did to this part was sand with 120 grit paper, spray epoxy on it, scuff it with 400 this morning, and then clean i with wax and grease remover

 

not bad

 

if the outside if the car turns out that good, it's going to be easy to block it down flat and polish it with my buffer

 

if the outside turns out that good, you wont even need to block it. just a quick wetsand to knock out any trash then a good buff and it should GLEEM.

 

maybe. the plan all along has been to give the car a show car finish, and the only way to do that is to cut and buff, at least on the roof, hood, and the tops of the doors, fenders, and quarter panels.

 

yea, but you can get a flawless shine without blocking the clear. just run over it with some wet 1500 or 2000 then give it a good buff. depending on the compound and pad, you can make it look like glass.

 

I have a good supply of 1200 here. I'll probably run over it with that, and then do 2000 before I buff

 

1200 is about as course as id go for clear. itll remove any trash pretty quick though.

 

Looks great! Would you be able to post a pic of the gun you used? And where did you get it from?

 

damn, cant wait to see the rest, car looks pretty WOW so far, wish i could get mine painted, but black is so hard to do

 

i'll do more than that. here's a review of it i'm doing on another website

http://www.autobody101.com/forums/vi...hp?f=3&t=17224

great website.... anybody who is interested in painting needs to spend a lot of time over there

 

Thank you!!