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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
All, I have waited until I got pretty far along before posting a thread of my swap, to make sure my idea wasn't a bust! Well, it has all worked out as planned with a few learnings along the way, I dont believe I have seen anyone on the forum use a TR6060 from a challenger for their swap yet. Well here is proof, with a little modification that it does fit. There is a lack of photos for how much work has gone into this swap, but if anyone has any questions feel free to DM me or comment. Thanks!
Build Details:
Junkyard LY6
Replaced almost all parts internally with stock parts except:
Terminator X
Bored .030"
-4cc domed pistons
Husler mid-length headers
trunnion bushings
dual valve springs
SS2 Cam
LS3 intake
LSA Injectors
Aeromotive 340lph fuel pump
ICT Billet Accessory mounts for Truck accessories.
Transmission:
2010 Challenger TR6060
LS1 bellhousing
LS1 slave cylinder (re-clocked)
input shaft machined shorter to fit (i believe a CTSV input shaft could have been used, but was cheaper to machine to spec)
fabricated transmission mount
flange to yoke adapter
prior to the swap:
Block is back from machine shop
as you can see the cross member is not completed. still need to fab up the torque arm mount and you can see where i traced out where the hump will be removed for the exhaust. Also, the shifter location lines up dead center in the opening of the tunnel. However this does not line up with the 4th gen center console, so it is going to be offset 3" rearward and 1" to driver side to line up. Relocation kit is on the way, will update when it is installed.
received the BMR Adjustable torque arm this week and got it mocked in place to get the pinion angle close. still need to build mount to the transmission crossmember. I got the measurements for the driveshaft and will be getting that on order today.
this thing is way more heavy duty than the stock stamped steel one.
watched a few dyno comparisons on youtube and seems that longtubes are more for peak horsepower and the shorter headers offer more torque. slight trade off between peak power and torque between the two is what i've been lead to believe. i built mine for strictly street use, so peak HP numbers at 6000 whatever RPM does not interest me, and cost secondly, they were a little cheaper than Stainless Works Headers (which are no longer available IIRC..) Drag car, yeah would have went with longtubes, just didnt think it was necessary for my application.
watched a few dyno comparisons on youtube and seems that longtubes are more for peak horsepower and the shorter headers offer more torque.
No, it doesn't work like that. A proper set of long tube headers make more torque everywhere. Now maybe they mismatched headers and gave up low end torque. Either way, doesn't matter much if it's not important to you but thought you might be interested to know.
No, it doesn't work like that. A proper set of long tube headers make more torque everywhere. Now maybe they mismatched headers and gave up low end torque. Either way, doesn't matter much if it's not important to you but thought you might be interested to know.
Thanks QwkTrip. guess i shouldnt have said anything since the only real reason was price in the end..
Either way, i am picking up the driveshaft tonight and maybe, just maybe i can have everything together to take it out for a first drive this weekend!!!!!
Intake built and installed as well:
UPDATE - got the transmission crossmember completed and installed, shifter should be in tonight. Waiting on a conversion U-Joint for the new driveshaft, didn't realize it was a 3-R and not a standard 1310... if all goes well it should be ready for its first drive this Saturday!
Also, i set the pinion angle slightly less than 2 degrees and located the rear-end with the adjustable panhard bar. It was only out 1/16". Having the adjustability of the rear end to locate everything properly is well worth the cost I must say.
Ahh, missed that. Hopefully that mounting system works out and doesn't cause you problems.
Is there no mounting pad for a mount on the 6060 like the Magnum has?
I hope it works out, have to see. I believe there is a mount for the 6060 but mine is the challenger tailhousing and I am pretty sure no one has a pre-made mount for it. Cost me $20 in material and like 3-4 hours of time to build.
I was just wondering why you didn't use the Mopar mount and build your crossmember around that?
Oh that was my first thought, and I bought it. But it hung down so far it would have been dragging on the ground, and clearance for exhaust was really hindered. I would have had to modify so much, it was easier to just start from scratch.
02-24-2021, 12:09 PM
