Mumz

Ok guys I need help with this swap. This is a one of a kind. Here we go. It's an ls1 and t56 swap into a 87 trans am no big deal. But. All the gauges are universal. Got rid of the digital dash. The engine has a stand alone harness already built. Need help with the chassis harness. Starter, alt, and gauge wiring, reverse switch.headlight wiring seems ok.. Here are some pics. The chassis wire harness was copped and nasty from the past owner.



I wanna make the wiring as simple as possible. This is how it sits now.





[I]This is the digital gauge pod i started with. After a bit of fiberglass

And bondo





Didnt like the digital stuff and wanted to change where the stereo went so im movinh it to the top.dvd player. ill have to cut into the dash and move the middle vent.





Sfter some fiberglass. Almost there





Ive always like the 3 gauges infront of the shifter so i figured why not. Had an old 3 guage pod laying around.





Used some fleece to start the mold








Im tired of fiberglassing by this point.





Turing out pretty good.





New seats.





Painted engine bay. Its a ford tuxedo black

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Start with the LS1 swap guide sticky in the top section of this forum.

WTR388

I am pretty sure my reverse light harness plugged right in to the T56... Could be wrong on that one.

The wiring for the headlights won't be touched.
There are only a handful of wires from the C-100 that will be used...
The starter solenoid wire from the c-100 goes to the same lug on the starter as stock set up.
I ran my alt wire under the alt/front of the engine and then up to the starter, that reduces the wires going to the battery as I tried to keep the engine bay clutter free.

In my swap thread, I show what wires from the c-100 I used, I also have an 87 T/A with a stand alone harness. I built the harness, Pocket set up my fuse/relay panel because he did a tidy job.

The next time I have the motor out, I'm going to change the routing of my harness so it goes through the firewall directly behind the intake to hide it even more than it is now.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

If your '87 is like my '89, then the entire chassis harness is run off two red 12 AWG wires that pass through C100 connector. More information and pictures are here,

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post6019718

Make sure you have a good heavy ground cable from chassis to battery that is rated to handle the electrical loads of the entire car. Just size it based on alternator rating and you can't go wrong (100 Amp in many cases). And then have another large ground cable (0 AWG) from engine block to battery to handle the starter cranking current, and to give the alternator a good ground path. Don't be stingy on cable size. Erring on the side of large is better than too small.

Mumz

Awesome thanks guys here is an update. Figured out most of the wiring. When I build the gauge cluster I forgot to add blinker indicator lights and high beam indicators. Opps. But finally got the radio installed engine running and painting today. The engine still needs vacuum system installed. The ls vacuum lines are torn and people want way to much money for vacuum lines. Anyone know if I can run a catch can without a pcv valve?



Finished gauge bezel





Almost done still need blinker indicators





Had to exten the harness to under the dash i hate witing now








Finally paint

Mumz

Here is an easy way to fix your door panels





Trimmer line used as plastic rivits. Melt them and smash them down





Finished product looks good i think.