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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Sure its been said here before but ill let you know how i plan to do it and what parts im using, will be a -6AN set up.
My car was origonaly a 305TPI auto, 86 iroc.
First off stock tank with new spectra sending unit
#FG20A
walbro 255 in tank
#GCA758-2
(really wish i whent bigger) but should be all i need for now.
Ok off the feed line from the sending unit -Earls #9894DBJERL ( 16mm x 1.5 O-ring too -6AN male )
From there Earls #AT800106ERL (-6AN female too -6AN hose)
From there i use Earls #320006ERL ( 20ft of earls AutoFlex -6AN line)
Run line from there along where my stock lines were and too a corvette filter/ regulator i will mount on the inner fenderwell just infront and below the master cylinder .. Wix #33737
Another (AT800106ERL) at the end of the hose to be connected too a Russel push on EFI fitting #644120 (3/8-male -6AN) that will attach to the inlet on the filter
Now on the outlet of the filter i used Russel #640940 ( male 3/8 that will push into the filter... too male -6AN)
From there to get the angle i want im using a Erals #AT815006ERL ( 150° female -6AN too -6AN hose)
From here hose will snake back to the firewall ... now off the intake is Russel #644120 again and from there im using Erals #AT935106ERL ( 90° turn back towards firewall ) straight into Earls #100192ERL ( male 6an too male 6an with 1/8" npt female) for a fuel pressure gauge... im using a cheapo summit gauge #SUM-800299.. from there it goes into Erals #AT809106ERL ( 90° down too connect the hose i left at the firewall.. soooo theres my feed set up. Return is simple..
Off the back of the filter a Russel #644110 ( 5/16 efi fitting ) to another AT800106ERL too hose all the way back too the sending unit, ran right along the feed line.. then another Russel #644110 will connect to your return off the sending unit... to do this you will need to cut the length of the return down about 3/4" and will need to sand down the outside of the line as it is about .01" to big... this is my idea anyway hopfully it works out, ive already checked all the fittings and they fit..
Also ive decided to turn this into my rambaling post while i go along with my swap, ill be running a nascar wheelin mod oil relocator with -10AN lines and a 7.5 quart SLP pan that "should fit". And ill be making my own windage tray because i dont like all the options out there for clearing big stroke engines....and im converting over from a 700 too a T56 from a ram. Should be fun
Are you running new lines the length of the car and not using the OE hard lines under the car? I like your diagram its helpful as I was planning to run the filter in the engine bay also. Ill just use your diagram from the filter forward as a reference. The most helpful part is having the part numbers for the fittings. Thanks.
Are you running new lines the length of the car and not using the OE hard lines under the car? I like your diagram its helpful as I was planning to run the filter in the engine bay also. Ill just use your diagram from the filter forward as a reference. The most helpful part is having the part numbers for the fittings. Thanks.
Same basic thing, but yours clamps on the return line via fitting. This one uses 90* fittings to better fit the chassis/engine bay[/QUOTE]
Yeah, where mine uses a fitting on the return didnt work out like i thought it would..the inside of the fitting was like .311 the outside of the sender return was .320 and it longer, so i cut it down and sanded it a bit, im starting to think mabey i will mount the filter by the tank.. i like the looks of it but i dont have enough hose.. will it make a diffrence if its not mounted close to the intake.. will pressure be ok?
May be doing this if it wont affect the pressure at the rail.. the stock bracket that was on the wix filter fit pretty well just using the factory bracket bolt location
To get the russel fitting to work on the stock return line i had to cut the line down 3/4" and sand away about .01"... wasnt to bad
For the return line on mine I ran a 6AN braided hose from the corvettle fuel filter/regulator to a AEI-15635 (6AN to 5/16 hose barb). Then used 2-3in of rubber high pressure fuel injection hose and clamps to hook up to the return on the sending unit. If you look closely in the attached pic you can see the return line(second line from the right side).
Your solution should work if you were able to evenly sand down the return line on the sending unit, if not it may leak.
Headman Hustlers.. mid length, i wanted to go with the ssw's but these were 350$ shipped... 1 3/4" little small for the 408. Smaller primary diameter should bring power curve down, shorter primarys should bring it up... so ill let myself think im not losing power lol!
Also found this guy laying around my cousins shop and got it for 50$.. perfect cuz my pan has 2 -10an fittings welded to it,
The 2 quart filter may be over kill tho huh lol
Look great but there powdercoat isnt powder coat.. and the hardware is too small, think im going to have to drill out the mounts for the right size bolt, and watch the powdercoat flake away in the breeze
FYI - There are fittings that go from GM quick connect to AN hose without needing two different parts. Example is Russell 611203.
What did you cut and sand? I didn't follow that.
O-rings require specific surface finish and roundness to seal. If you sanded a sealing surface then you're risking leaks. Don't know the spec for o-ring but it is probably 1.6 micrometer surface finish.
Originally Posted by jbenge
Then used 2-3in of rubber high pressure fuel injection hose and clamps to hook up to the return on the sending unit. If you look closely in the attached pic you can see the return line(second line from the right side).
FYI - There are fittings that go from GM quick connect to AN hose without needing two different parts. Example is Russell 611203.
What did you cut and sand? I didn't follow that.
O-rings require specific surface finish and roundness to seal. If you sanded a sealing surface then you're risking leaks. Don't know the spec for o-ring but it is probably 1.6 micrometer surface finish.
Don't use worm clamps and hose barb.
I'm no idiot, no need for insults. Lets keep this technical and professional. High pressure hose and the correct high pressure hose clamps are perfectly fine. There is a difference between high pressure fuel injection hose and clamps vs standard hose and clamps. You might want to research that before you call someone an idiot.
The return line sees minimal pressure, so you dont even need high pressure line or EFI clamps. Thats why the compression fitting (20psi max) is fine for the hardline
Only the high pressure side requires EFI clamps and outside of the tank I prefer all connections to be threaded
Helpful hint: Cut with a dremel disc and the braiding won't fray.
It depends on the brand/batch of hose/braid. I use a cutoff wheel and black tape and even same brand different batch hose can fray badly or stay put. There isnt a foolproof method for every hose. Everyone and their brother has a different way of doing it
Seem cutoff wheels, hack saws, chop saws with a wood blade turned backwards, sharp chisels on a block of wood, shears etc
You might want to research that before you call someone an idiot.
I didn't call you an idiot. You read into that yourself from the smiley. But that is some sketchy looking stuff by my standards. If you recommend it to people then ya, I might speak up and disagree.
Originally Posted by Pocket
The return line sees minimal pressure, so you dont even need high pressure line or EFI clamps.
Return line pressure can be full pressure at regulator and as low as near atmospheric at the dump to tank. Just depends what location is picked in the line. You have to admit, margin of safety of parts is the only thing saving some of the people out there with what they do.
[QUOTE=QwkTrip;5928162]I didn't call you an idiot. You read into that yourself from the smiley. But that is some sketchy looking stuff by my standards. If you recommend it to people then ya, I might speak up and disagree.
I respectfully disagree, I don't see anything "sketchy" about using 3in of high pressure fuel injection hose that is rated to 225psi with the proper clamps to connect the sending unit return to the AEI-15635 fitting. I'm done with this thread.
Ive used high pressure hose and double clamps on a few things.. most recent was a 02 silverado.. held up for the three years i owned it.
As for what i sanded it was the return line, there are threads on here saying to use a 14mm 1.5 oring for return and 16 for feed so i wasted my money and purchased them both... the return line didnt have a threaded fitting from the factory, it used a normal hose with clamps... im sure there may be a better way of doing it but its what i had and i only needed to sand the outside diamiter down .01".. and the russel fitting that i used to go over it has 3 o roings that are smaller than the recieving line that it slides around. I didnt have a cut off or dremel at the time, herd of that way too but i didnt get much fraying with the hack saw and 32 tooth blade
it will be a while before the car runs, but ill post up if it leaks or not.. mabey ill just run the pump and check... and if it does i will be using the fitting that Jbenge used with injection hose.. since mine didnt leak with the old factory dry rotted hose with hose clamps on it at 40psi
I see now you said there one piece.. and i used the 2 piece ones
Ya, you're good. I just threw out the part number in case you wanted to use it. Shorter overall length so it can be useful in a tight spot. One less connection and all one color if that is a priority.
My original hard line was varnished from years of fuel sitting in it. Like you, I had to lay new line. I also had a plan to run -6 hose under the car front to back but I just couldn't get comfortable with the idea. My mind kept thinking about what happens when I run over things, flying rocks, and other worst case scenarios. I ended up making my own hard line but that had its own troubles and expense of tools. And frankly, I might have some leaks because every flare was made by me. In retrospect, it is a pretty decent idea to use lengths of tube from the auto store with the pre-made flares and tube nuts. Just bend it and drop it in. I have friends that use aluminum tube but I like something a little sturdier and not so susceptible to fatigue failure.
When I played with hose up to engine fuel rail I was shocked how easy an AN fitting will loosen (unscrew) if the hose has any leverage to rotate the fitting. Angled fittings can do this. Pay extra special attention to proper support of fuel line where you have angled AN fittings. Weight, vibration, or engine movement can tug on the joint and you want to make sure it does not loosen.
Yeah im familiar with the fittings i gotta deal with this every weekend
U should see the dry sump lines lol
Another thing to note on how jbenge did it is that 6an fuel line literally is 3/8 fuel inj hose, just with stainless over it and AN fittings, his set up really wasnt bad.. 6an= 6/16 or 3/8... 8an is 8/16... 10an= 10/16... and so on for anyone who didnt know. Makes it pretty simple
06-05-2015 | 01:02 AM
Shorter overall length so it can be useful in a tight spot. One less connection and all one color if that is a priority.
