3rdGenFreak1227

I know there are alot of guys on here that are on the fence about doing LSX swaps on their 3rd gens. Well here is a breakdown of my swap so guys can get an idea of the kind of costs that are incurred...just sat down and did this write up...almost had a heartattack when I finally added up total project cost! This write up is all inclusive and also includes the suspension mods I will be doing. I figured if I'm going to do this swap I might as well do it right the first time so I'll be completely happy with it. I know there are things that are missing in this write up so any suggestions are welcome. Also if anyone knows where I could save a few bucks or find something cheaper hook a brother up!...thanks guys!

LQ4 complete long block - $400
headwork (milling, complete recon, mild port/polish job) - $364
file fit rings/bearings - $138
gaskets/seals - $100
stock oil pump - $74
Oil pan Kit - $198
Tall polished Valve Covers - $230
LS6 yellow valve springs - $65
7.300" pushrods - $120
LS1 Intake - $225
paint - $20
head gaskets - $186
head bolts - $16
Coil Packs - FREE
Truck Acc brackets - FREE
Truck Balancer - FREE

total invested a/o 3/24/13 = $2136

Suspension Estimate-------------------------------------------------------

Sinister Adj Rear Susp Kit- $417.95 Hawks
Torque Arm- Spohn Adj. with T56 trans x-member $585.00 Hawks
GC Weight Jacks- $459.00 850lb front 175 lb rear
Struts- KYB GR-2 $145.00 Hawks
Shocks- Bilstein Sport Rear Shocks $104.99 Hawks
Camber/Caster Plates- $229.99 Hawks
Ball Joints- Moog 36.99 x 2 Oreilly
4th Gen SS wheels- $400 CL
Misc Hardware- $200
K-member notch- FREE
K-member/lower ctrl arm powdercoat- FREE (got a buddy lol)
LS swap motor mounts- $99.99 Hawks

TOTAL- $2415.93

Brakes Estimate-----------------------------------------------------------

Drill/Slotted 4th Gen Front rotors- $269.99 Summit Baer Holdings 55034-020
Drill/slotted 4th Gen Rear rotors- $242.99 Summit Baer Holdings 55050-020
4th Gen LS Front calipers- $60.99 x 2 Oreilly
Abutment adapter brackets- $80.00 TGO member

TOTAL- $714.96

Drivetrain Estimate-------------------------------------------------------

4th Gen Rear- FREE
4.10:1 Gears- $199.00 Hawks
T56 Trans swap kit- $2200 Hawks
Clutch- $293.95 Summit RAM HDX 88935
Flywheel- $369.95 Summit Centerforce 700142
4th Gen Plastic Fuel Tank- FREE
Fuel Pump- $119.95 Summit Walbro GCA758-2
Fuel Regulator- $214.95 Holley 512-505
Fuel Hose- $50 (approx)
AN fittings- $100 (approx)

TOTAL- $3547.80

Exhaust-------------------------------------------------------------------

Headers- $699.00 1-5/8 Hawks
X-pipe- $199.00 Hawks
Muffler- $649.95 SLP Powerflo catback Summit

TOTAL- $1547.95

Gauges-----Autometer Phantom--------------------------------------------

Wideband- $299.99 ATM-5778
Tach- $175.95 ATM-5898
Speedo- $229.95 ATM-5889
Fuel- $48.95 ATM-5714
Oil Pressure- $69.95 ATM-5727
Water Temp- $54.95 ATM-5737
Voltmeter- $49.95 ATM-5791

TOTAL- $929.69

MISC---------------------------------------------------------------------

Lokar Throttle Cable- $53.95 Summit
Cowl Hood- 2" cowl hood $389.95 Hawks
Alternator- $169.99 Oreilly
P/S pump- $69.00 Oreilly
TP sensor- $35.00 Oreilly
IAC motor- $117.00 Oreilly
MAP sensor- $69.99 Oreilly
MAF sensor- $105.95 Summit (Delphi)

TOTAL- $1010.93


TOTAL ESTIMATED PROJECT COST - $12403.25

KEEP IN MIND THIS IS AN ESTIMATED COST...THERE WILL BE OTHER ODDS/ENDS TO BE PURCHASED.

lunati397

what head gaskets cost 190 i got ls9 ones for 98 dollars

neeb_usmc

iTrader: (2)

You have any updated pics?

Marc 85Z28

iTrader: (3)

Why bother with the LQ4? You will save a lot of money and weight with a LS1 dropout.

There are probably a 20-30 places on that list that you could save a ton, including several items that are a complete waste.

I'm nearing completion on my swap (misc wiring, interior, and tuning). Same basic idea as you: entire overhaul of the car. I have less than HALF of what you do in yours.

3rdGenFreak1227

I went with a .040" cometic head gasket to get the CR I wanted...they are 94 each I think...it was a while ago when I bought them

3rdGenFreak1227

I went with an LQ4 because it was what I had handy...got it from work...80k warranty core. I know LS1 dropouts are less expensive but regardless of miles I would have gone through the motor anyways...so I would have spent the same on the recon. of the motor...and I wouldn't have gotten an LS1 for $400...but I def see where you are coming from...thanks for the input!

what parts exactly are a complete waste? Not being shitty at all Im just curious...I purchased all the parts yet...still in the parts gathering phase...this is just a build outline...the only thing that is completely assembled and built is the motor. I know I went a little crazy with the suspension stuff and all of it isn't exactly a necessity to have the car perform well...but I just like having piece of mind that everything is new...never really was all that excited about stamped steel LCAs and panhard bars...plus I like having the adjustibility of the weight jacks...much better way to go than lowering springs IMO...but hey to each his own lol

3rdGenFreak1227

I have motor pics...its the only part thats actually finished...still gathering parts for the rest of the build...plans are to have the drivetrain and most of the interior done next summer...then saving up for paint and body...I'm still a couple years out of all phases being completely done...

LivinLarge

Why did you buy and ls1 intake for 230? You can almost get an ls6 intake that flows 100x better for that price

3rdGenFreak1227

Got it from a member on tech...I got intake, rails, injectors, and TB for 225...everyone wanted atleast 350 for the ls6 intake not including the other parts...and yes I am aware there are better parts out there to make better power for the LS platform...I'm not a newb to ls motors...wasn't looking for giant power numbers from the motor...this isn't going to be a track car...I am honestly more concerned with the street manners, dependability and handling/feel of the car seeing as how its going to log most if not all its miles on the street and twisty back roads. There are many different ways to do this swap with greatly varying price points. I am just sharing my plans for my car, other members posts like this helped me put together a plan for mine, was just trying to return the favor for the next guy. But good looking out man...thanks for the input!

bungy74

don't feel bad, i am doing a swap also, and my price keeps going up and up also. I could do it cheaper by taking out things that are not necessary, but like you i wanna do it right the first time, or at least my way the first time. In the end everyone has a different arrangement than the next guy doing a swap, it is all about doing it your way ! kudos and good luck on your project

3rdGenFreak1227

Right on man...thanks!

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Same story here, and probably with most people. Thought my swap would be done for 4-5K, and came in just shy of 7k. Some of it was replacing items that were worn, that I was not expecting to replace, and some of it was un-nessasary wants. "might as well upgrade now, rather than later"( headers, Tick MC, ect.).

bungy74

yea, i started out getting an automatic donor car, then decided to go with a t56 for an extra $2000. Now i decided to go with tubular k member and a-arms with coil overs. I am sure i will change my mind on other things as the project progresses and the $$$'s stack up, haha. I want my car to be nice and to my liking when i am done, so it is not necessarily just about saving dollars.

3rdGenFreak1227

Yea I dunno if Ill end up doing EVERYTHING on this list...this is just how I would love to do it. Might end up just doing the necessary mods and throwing some LEDs in the stock gauges and running them for a while...probably will end up doing most if not all the suspension mods tho...been doing alot of research on the GC weight jacks...that is something I will most def be doing

bungy74

what is GC weight jacks ?

3rdGenFreak1227

Ground control weight jacks...kind of like an adjustable coil over that fits in the factory spring pockets and you run struts and shocks like normal but with ride height adjustability...slightly less expensive than a full coil over setup and you can still run a wide front tire and not run into clearance issues like some guys do with front coil overs...just google ground control weight jacks 82-92 camaro

bungy74

i never seen them before, which raises a new concern for me. I have the Ronal wheels on my car from the early firehawks, and i am going to be using the BMR coil overs on the front of my car. I hope they won't interfere.

Z28FAST1

I would hate to calculate my costs lol.

Looks like you were very thorough and didn't cut corners to get it done correctly the 1st time. I'm sure you've heard it's more expensive to do it twice!!

cam-

Good luck

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Wow id hate to calculate my costs as I think I could have paid half my morgage with it by now LOL. Oh wel im hapy with the swap but the wife isnt. Oh well some things are replacable LOL

cam-

LMAO!! ^ Wow dude.... ballsy approach

Lets get the car of yours to the track already whats the hold up?

Reaaaaaaal soon

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

I got no head lights now LOL and i need the rear as i want to drive it back LOL unless we go and prove a LS can destroy a 10 bolt in one day LOL. Either way im up for it and we will hit up the track for sure this year

cam-

Breaking aint fun, even intentionally unless its a bush basher in your own yard and the tools are handy. We'll get you sorted soon not to worry man I need to get these things done so i can work on my own stuff again :P

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

LOL thats why I'd bring the trailer. Well actually I'd bring the trailer reguardless as mishaps happen at the worst times.

Heres a few rough numbers I got from mine. I will use the same template as 3rdGenFreak1227

LQ4 complete long block - $3500 with all this

Stock crank (machined .010/.010)
Chevlite H series Cam,Rod and Main Bearings
Compstar 6.125 H-Beams
Wiesco -11CC Pistons (rings gapped for boost)
Comp 236/236 112.5lsa Turbo grind cam - speedinc tu2
GM LS7 Lifters
Trickflow Hardened pushrods
Melling High Pressure Pump
JP Performance Double Roller Timing Chain
GM performance head bolts
ARP MAIN STUDS
LS9 Head gaskets
Patriot Stage 2 215cc heads - bowl blended, ported and milled to 58cc
Patriot .650 Lift Springs
Stock Rockers
Stock Valve Covers
Stock Front and rear Covers
All sensors (cam,crank.oil,temp, knock sensors)
98+ F-body Oil pan (with -10an drain, windage and pickup tube)
Fast 92 Intake - $750
Nick williams 92 throttle body -$350
F body Coil Packs - $50
F body Acc brackets - $200
Balancer - $130
Starter for a truck $ 150
Alternator - $140

total invested a/o 3/24/13 = $5270

Suspension Estimate-------------------------------------------------------

Eibach prokit $150
BMR extreme torque arm and instalation $550
T56 trans double hump x-member $100
UMI rear control arms , panhard, SFC's $350
Struts- KYB GR-2 $140
Camber/Caster Plates- $250
Ball Joints- Moog $35
Refinished GT's with newer rubber $ 1200
energy suspension bushings - $200
K-member notch - didnt have to as I welded the mounts to it 2 inches farther back
LS swap adapter brackets - Came with the motor

TOTAL- $2975

Brakes Estimate-----------------------------------------------------------

Drill/Slotted 4th Gen Front rotors- $200
Drill/slotted 4th Gen Rear rotors- $200
New pads all the way around and cables $270
4th Gen LS Front calipers- $200 for the pair
Abutment adapter brackets and made spindles - $150

TOTAL- $1120

Drivetrain Estimate-------------------------------------------------------

Custom 8.8 rear with relocation brakets ( housing only ) $1100
4.10:1 Gears- $140
31 Spline posi - $200
T56 Trans swap - $1000
LS7 Clutch / Flywheel kit $500
4th Gen Plastic Fuel Tank / Fuel Pump / Corvette Fuel Regulator / Braided Line - $200
AN fittings- $100 (approx)
Tick master - $350
4th gen rear brakes $150

TOTAL- $3790

Exhaust-------------------------------------------------------------------

Stainless works Headers from hawks- $800
custon Stainless Y-Pipe $700
SLP loudmouth catback $150
3 V-band clamps $150
Magnaflow y merge and 2 cats $250
4th gen tips $40

TOTAL- $2090

Gauges-----Autometer sport comp and 2 AEM widbands -------------------------------

2 AEM Wideband- $350
Tach / Speedo / Fuel / Electric Oil Pressure / Water Temp / Voltmeter / Pyro / Vac / Stewart warner digial RPM / Fuel Pressure / NOS / Oil Temp

TOTAL- $1100 give or take

MISC---------------------------------------------------------------------

4th Gen Throttle Cable- $20 new
Buying my hood back as I sold the cowl I had $100
Grant wheel and bracket - $275
Hoses - $100
P/S pump- $100
TP sensor- $came with motor
IAC motor- $70
MAP sensor- $came with motor
SLP 85mm MAF sensor- $150
Intake i made - $150
K&N filter $80

TOTAL- $1045


As you can see you can save in some areas and get caried away on others. i went overboard for sure but its what I wanted and i left alot off the list

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Too late. Already been done. 2nd launch, actually, didn't take the whole day. With a stock LS1 to boot - don't need no 6.0 liter...

However, with an auto trans, I've been running my LS1 (LS6 clone) with a 10-bolt built exactly the same way for two full seasons without a whimper.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Drivetrain Estimate-------------------------------------------------------

Custom 8.8 rear with relocation brakets ( housing only ) $1100
4.10:1 Gears- $140
31 Spline posi - $200
T56 Trans swap - $1000
LS7 Clutch / Flywheel kit $500
4th Gen Plastic Fuel Tank / Fuel Pump / Corvette Fuel Regulator / Braided Line - $200
AN fittings- $100 (approx)
Tick master - $350[/QUOTE]

Where did you get the 8.8 housing from? I'd like to get one, not 100 percent confident in my fab skills for something that precise.

DeltaElite121

There is a member on LS1tech that makes and sells fabricated 8.8 bracket sets for torque arms (still needs welded together after you recieve it). It was $55 or so shipped. I've still got mine sitting upstairs, even after selling off my 8.8. Nice parts.

3rdGenFreak1227

Interesting...did you run into firewall clearance with the motor being further back?

Wow i wish I could find a good T56 for 1k...there are damn near non-existent around here! I might check with my parts department at work when its time to buy a clutch, I forgot they sell those kits for the LS7 in the Z06. Maybe save a few bucks there buying the whole deal as a kit with the FW.

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

I find if you have a manual with the guys I know they just get eaten up but with the auto they last longer. Its odd thats for sure

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Where did you get the 8.8 housing from? I'd like to get one, not 100 percent confident in my fab skills for something that precise.[/quote]There is a member here that does them and I would let you know but Im not sure if he would like me to. I will let him know if he already doesnt know of this thread and see if he would contact you about it. I just dont want to say and hes not doin them anymore is all.

Oh I forgot to add moser axels $600 to that list

what about the spring perches and the way the brakes bolt up? Do you use a actual 8.8 as Im only using the center section and F body axel tubes

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Nope did nothing to the firewall. I just beat the weld flat on the inside edge and welded the solid mounts to it. I got maybe 2mm of clearance lol but it works 100% and wont move ever. it sits close but not that bad at all. Tranny lines up and everything without issues. heres a pic

I also just got the tranny for 1k and nothing else. Up here in Canada LS stuff is through the roof unlike in the U.S.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Hard driven stick cars with aggressive clutches put a lot more shock load on the rear diffs, and that's what destroys them.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

As far as the rear end is concerned, a high-stall auto is a marshmallow, a stick is a jack hammer.

3rdGenFreak1227

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

To be honest inever looked at it that way

3rdGenFreak1227

Yea the motor is already done...should be plenty for me on my budget for now...but I'll def keep this stuff in mind when I do inevitably rip her back out and go through it here in a few years...I get bored easily...tend to start ripping my car back apart when this happens lol. We'll see how these milled 317s work out for now...bumped compression up pretty good with the thinner head gasket (.040) and PTV is safe but it significantly limits cam selection, which is why I went with an LS6 cam (just realized I forgot to put that on the list lol) but I wouldn't wanna push PTV any closer than it is now.
So when I finally get some coin saved up I'll get a good set of low cc heads and get some PTV back and put a killer cam in it...just on a pretty restricted budget right now so modified stock parts it is! lol

High~Cruzin

Hope I'm not jackin the thread or topic here but...been readin through thread and could really use some advise myself. I'm new to the LS platform and was thinking of letting someone set up a speed density set up for my 383 build(early block 2pc.). However, for what it will cost me why not do the LS1...My 89 was tbi equipped so what all do I need from a donor or am I best off getting my harness reworked and buying some kit for LS1? My bad if this has been covered x10...any links or knowledge for me?

High~Cruzin

Hope I'm not jackin the thread or topic here but...been readin through thread and could really use some advise myself. I'm new to the LS platform and was thinking of letting someone set up a speed density set up for my 383 build(early block 2pc.). However, for what it will cost me why not do the LS1...My 89 was tbi equipped so what all do I need from a donor or am I best off getting my harness reworked and buying some kit for LS1? My bad if this has been covered x10...any links or knowledge for me?

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Check out the ls1 swap sticky in these lsx ltx forums if you haven't already. With a budget mindset, best bet is to find a wrecked 98-02 Fbody and keep engine, trans, harness, and PCM. Buy a dropout if you can find one cheap, and still has belt driven accessories and such included. There are several vendors to make this a bolt in swap with mounts and crossmembers, and info is around for coolant hoses and such. Wiring harnesses can be done yourself with pockets lsx harness threads(also linked in the sticky). If wiring still isn't for you, plug and play options are available from site sponsors and other vendors, as well as a couple members on here who also build plug and play wiring harnesses a home for less.

High~Cruzin

Can anyone point me too right sticky?...can't seem to located anything of informative purpose...got my block already( mid 80's 4 bolt/2pc., 383) wanted to know if I can get right heads and intake for LSX and just swap my TBI harness/ecm for a donor LS1 harness and ecm...CAN"T BE THAT SIMPLE I"M SURE...

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...third-gen.html

Five7kid gives a general overview into the swap, with links to specific sections of the swap, like mounts, hoses, wiring, ect.

Nothing from your smallblock will interchange with ls based engines. There is no mis-matching parts between the two. Your TBI harness will not work as is with a ls swap, and a ls harness won't work as is in our car, they will need to be modified and integrated into one harness.

3rdGenFreak1227

Yea Cruzin the LS platform is COMPLETELY different than the gen I sbc 383 you have. I would suggest either sticking with the gen I you already have or selling it and buying an LS based motor. I'm curious as to how you are running a 4L80E with a stock TBI pcm also...how are you controlling the electronics in the trans?

High~Cruzin

That's what I assumed...just wasn't sure IF ANYTHING COULD be interchangeable. Far as the tranny...nothing is hooked up and since I'm not ready to fork out for LSX swap, i'm prob gunna use our gen efi/pcm and run the motor N/A( just to have car driving) until saved up for LSX. I'm not to savy with the electronic setup stuff...the 4L80e would be for the LSX, until then guess i'll run the ol 700r4...project decisions are so stressful. Well, since my car is empty(no motor and not wanting to run tbi) can anyone point me to the route for running a basic efi system(preff factory stuff)?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Ignore the critics. You made the right choice. 6.0L will out run the LS1 every time and it is more streetable with a big cam. Have fun with your project.

3rdGenFreak1227

Thanks! I plan too :-)

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Obviously he has more money than you do. Got a problem with that?

It's not a competition to see who can do it the cheapest. His purpose for the hobby is different than yours. This board has everybody from penny pinchers to rich old farts. Let each person do their own thing in peace.

I've got twice that in my car and it doesn't even run. My purpose is to have quiet tinker time and it's been mission accomplished. Some day the car will get done by accident.

UnstableAviator

Or people like me who just don't know when to quit. I think I should have started doing drugs instead of hot-rodding. You know, less harmful chemicals ingested, cheaper, treatment programs, etc

cam-

As for the LS6 cam ya know a good friend of mine dropped a bone stock new LS6 crate in his car.... I gotta say it cooks nice. Love that engine but the 243 heads help a lot which are very similar to the 317's anyways and seeing as you milled them it should rip nicely. Plus I like the plan of leaving room to mod again down the road. So much fun to mod a step or two at a time. Speed gets boring real quick so having easy gains to be had along the way keeps things fun and lively

3rdGenFreak1227

My sentiments exactly...didn't wanna go all out right away that way I still have room to grow...couldn't have said it better myself!

3rdGenFreak1227

Love this quote lol