LEEEZARD7

hello all, i am a newbie to this board. i am an ase master mechanic from the porsche world and happen to like the old iroc z's. wanted one since highschool... 1989 graduate. i purchased a complete and decent 87 iroc yesterday. original 350tpi, 5 speed, 4 wheel disc brake car. my plans are as follows; i have a ls3 crate engine, stainless 304 headers, 1.8 full roller rockers, patriot titanium valvetrain, cnc port and polish heads, purchased a 2000 t56 fbody 6speed today, i have porsche 4 piston brembos to convert for all 4 corners with iroc cross drilled rotors, will purchase delsphere front coil over tubular arms, will purschase delsphere tubular rear links, i have afco coilover conversion for all 4 corners, doing a manual rack conversion, will purchase 10 point cage, i have sparco race seats and simpson cam lock belts. purpose of car is weekend warrior road race, autocross, and occasional street driven. any thoughts?

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Not that it matters, but these cars were never equipped with the 350 and a manual transmission. You had to choose 350 and automatic, or 305 and 5-speed. Most likely you have a 305 TPI.

I'd say generally the 305TPI/T5 cars are probably slightly more valuable, but it's a toss up. They're definitely more rare, though.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

What size are your porsche brakes?

LEEEZARD7

after researching the vin it shows its a 305 5 speed car. likely someone put the 350 in at a later time.

LEEEZARD7

the brembos are off of a 2000 boxster s. 4 piston calipers on all fours. similar sized rotors to the iroc rotors on diameter and thickness. thanks.

LEEEZARD7

other incidentals, 90mm throttle body, stainless 304 obx headers, dual stainless flowmasters, cold air intake k&n setup, poly suspension on everything thats not spherical joints, adjustable monoball camber plates, stainless brake hoses, michelin pilot road race slicks, etc, etc...

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

This is gonna be a nice build subscribing. Keep us updated

LEEEZARD7

thank you sickrs for the vote of confidence. picked up the 2000 t56 6 speed with low miles/24000 today. got the trans, bellhousing, shifter, htob, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc for 1350.00.

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

I was reading your plans and I'm wondering do you have a pic of the brakes? So that means your keeping stock rotors?

LEEEZARD7

yes stock sized rotors but crossdrilled. how do i add pics?

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

You click were it says attachments and add them from there or copy and paste from your photobucket if you have one. Also i wanna see that stock rotors wig brembos never seen or heard of that.

LEEEZARD7

i think it took the pic. i have these in black and red.

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

Those look alot like mine are you sure there gonna work with the stock rotor since the stock rotors are 10.5 in diameter and those calipers are around the same. Have you thought of upgrading rotors and getting some z51 rotors? Or c6 z06 for bigger rotors?

LEEEZARD7

braking turns mechanical energy into kinetic/heat energy. as long as you can cool the rotors and pads sufficiently 10.5 to 11.0 rotors wont matter. now i wont argue that larger rotors are more effiecent at stopping shorter distances or converting kinetic heat better but cross drilled rotors in general have worked for decades in our porsche race cars. cross drilled rotors cool better/apx 66% better, last longer and have less maintenance. again i can lock up 11.0 inch or larger rotors just as easy as 10.5 inch rotors with the 4 piston brembos. and when your locked up none of it matters anymore. braking efficiency is the least of my worrys. taking 300-400 lbs out of the car and putting better calipers with cross drilled rotors will be a plus over stock, but thank you for your concerns.

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

No problem, just post pics of this once you are done i really wanna see how you do the brake setup sounds interesting. Is it gonna go behind stock wheels?

LEEEZARD7

my car has a very nice set of stock iroc wheels. and i plan on keeping them, but i do have to admit i like the shiney 18" iroc wheels on ebay lol. does anyone run them? any problems with them?

LEEEZARD7

ps sickrs... i did not mean anything negative with my brake answer. after re reading it i dont sound very nice in my reply. it wasnt meant that way at all. sorry.

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

No its ok i didnt take it offensive at all . As for the iroc 18s there are no problems at all with them and you could get them pretty cheap too sometimes for $200 on craigslist with tires.

daddy33

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like it's going to be a pretty interesting build. Keep us posted with pics.

In the future I would also like to upgrade my rear drum brakes to some nice disc ones.

STREETDEMON

right now, aside from custom headers, there are only 2 sources. hawks and brb(made by hedman husler). hawks delivers a stainless header for big $$, and the BRB product has a strange flat collector but is easier on the pocket book. good luck with your build and welcome home to the domestic side!

LEEEZARD7

i have some ss304 stainless shorty headers for a ls truck. we shall see how they fit.

morrow

im sooo following this. welcome to TGO

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

Updates?

LEEEZARD7

currently... have the car, have the ls3, have the tremec 6 speed, the spohn ls motor mounts showed up, the spohn t56 mount showed up, the spohn manual rack showed up, have the brembos.
dilema... i want to 4 link the rear axle and likely convert the front suspension to c4 vette stuff to get the traditional double a arm control. but these items would make the car just a shell of its former self as an iroc. also would make it very suspension tuneable friendly and stick well in the corners at speed.
any thoughts?

STREETDEMON

save yourself the headache and just work with the suspension components you have...there is a great aftermarket (spohn, umi, bmr, hotchkis, etc) for the suspension system on a 3rd gen. they are very capable in stock form, and when modified can blow your mind with how well they handle.

LEEEZARD7

i have a set of adjustable moton piggyback coilovers with monoball camber plates for the fronts and the same for the rears for the stock style 3rd gen setup. can purchase spohn front delsphere arms and rear spohn delsphere links. i come from a hardcore race background and am just use to dual a arm suspensions and race coilovers. ill try the spohn 3rd gen stuff and see how it goes. i want this to be a serious wkend warrior car as i will run with the local porsche club and local corvette club. i have friends in the corvette world and i am from the porsche world.

LEEEZARD7

i wanted to put a start pic on here so you know what it looks like when i got it. here goes.

85 roc it

Looks great man. I've had mine for almost 17 years. Just now getting it going again. Was gonna do the LS swap, but had a new 383 sitting in it but had issues with wiring. Nows that all fixed. I will be happy to drive the car again.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

I bet you run down some of those porches with this setup. even some of the vetttes

LEEEZARD7

On the outside my iroc will look stock, iroc stickers, factory 16" wheels, but it will likely suprise some people

morrow

these cars usually
do

Anti-Venom

Don't waste your time with stock rotors. They still won't cool even with ducts. What your doing is increasing the thermal load on a rotor that's already insufficient. 66%? Prove it...That arguement has been beaten to death. Cross drilling does not improve the thermal efficiency of a rotor. And why screw with wheel bearings every time you change rotors? I guess for a streetcar it would be fine but guys that run in CMC have to replace their stock rotors frequently with ducts, on gutted, lighter racecars. So if you plan on track days the extra cost up front will save you money and time down the road.

Anti-Venom

Just noticed you said poly bushings. The only thing that should be poly on a track car is the swaybar bushings. Stock front control arms are plenty strong and there's no need to replace them other than the bling factor. Just put in some delrin control arm bushings and new ball joints and call it a day there. You have a lot to learn with f-bodie's.

Expensive AFCO's but stock rotors and poly bushings? Do yourself a huge favor and head over to FRRAX.com and join. It's a different atmosphere over there where nothing is stated without hard facts and solid data.

Btw, flowmasters flow terrible. Invest in a magnaflow at least. Lighter weight, stainless system that's a better flowing system w/o the grain truck cackle. Hard to beat for the cost. Don't mean to tear down your build, I just hate to see people waste time and money.

LEEEZARD7

venom, thanks for the replies. i do have extensive experiance with cross drilled rotors, personally. years ago my 911 track car in the beginning had stock rotors and about every other race i warped rotors. i bought new stock rotors on the third time out and cross drilled them myself in my bridgeport mill and didnt warp another rotor ever again, period. stock cross drilled rotors with pagid pads and my brakes were flawless. do you have a track car with cross drilled rotors? the heat from the excessive braking on track days was overheating the rotors and pads and thus warping the rotors. after the cross drilling and pagid pads, no more over heating the brakes and no more warping. so yes cross drilling does dissipate heat better than non cross drilled brake rotors. i have witnessed it and experianced it on my personal car, no argument just facts.
as far as poly bushings it would just be the sway bars as i have purchased spohn delsphere front arms, and delshere rear links, delsphere panhard, and delsphere torque arm. they have delrin in them. but if i didnt have the funds to go the route im going i would have gone poly bushings. have you ever driven a track car back to back with and without the poly bushings. a few months back i drove a few friends vettes on track day. 2 were 1993 c4 cars, stock except one had poly bushings one had stock bushings. the car with poly was very tight in the corners and was more crisp in the esses. so again poly is a plus over stock. what kind of track car are you running and what setup are you running? flowmasters versus magnaflows? i have both.. on different cars in my stable. plusses and minuses on both. could go either way. depends on your tastes and a track/race car with headers... its gonna be loud anyways so magnaflow being quieter isnt a issue. again, what kind of race car you running?

DooSPX

watching...

Boreen

Soooo....
Anything ever happen?

mikesanto70

Oh, ain't it, I wasted 10 min reading this expecting to see an LS3 3rd gen, WTF!!!!

sjgrimsley

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