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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Decided to change oil pump. Not a fun job because the whole front suspension, steering, and k-member has to come out to drop the pan. Just one of those things that had to be done though and now is the time while the car is still off the road for winter.
I've got a Melling 10295 (standard flow, high pressure) pump in an engine with extra oiling circuits for dedicated lifter axle oiling. The pump is proving to not be the right match for the engine so I decided to step up one notch to the Melling 10296 (high flow, high pressure) for a little extra kick across the board. I know its directionally correct but won't know the real results for another month until after the winter salt washes off the roads. First startup and cold idle definitely looks good though! The real test will be whether it carries well enough to 7400 rpm.
Very good video with lots of pump curves compared.
I did a very minor bit of porting on the inlet. Basically smoothed the bore and that's about it. Didn't touch the outlet at all except knock the sharp edge off the corners. I'm not professing any kind of knowledge, I just did something that seemed helpful without risk of screwing up anything.
This time I made damn sure the right bypass spring was in the pump! Going with the red spring.
Getting the damper pressed on with radiator in the car is something I hadn't tried before. Same homemade tool I've used before, just cut down to 9" long to fit between engine and radiator.
Here's a dirt cheap upgrade: 1" taller oil filter, WIX WL10255. Got that pointer from vorteciroc
All done and coming back down to the ground. Just showing off a bit before I remove the last jack stand.... 3 wheels are off the ground. Kids, don't try this at home with your stock 3rd gen.
Yeah, I have Kenny Brown outers and Alston inners, 6-point interior bars, and DSE steering brace. Also have some bridging from outers to front of tranny tunnel, and across the inners at rear of tranny tunnel. I used to have bridging all the way across between outers but cut it out due to terrible ground clearance where it dipped under exhaust.
It was all step-wise add-ons over many years as a hobby car and not thought out as a unit. I would do some things different if I had a retry but it's good enough.
This year I want to add a brace across front of tranny tunnel and make a 3-point strut-firewall brace that fits under the hood. Then I'll finally sell my Kenny Brown STB that took me 10 years to find
Had a warm snap in the mid 60's today so ran the car for a long time in the driveway. Liking the oil pressures I'm seeing.
+5 psi hot idle
+10 psi at 2K rpm
+20 psi at high rpm which is where I really needed it
I'm always shocked every spring how uncivilized the car is after not driving it for 6 months. I'm considering going to a smaller cam for better driveability. Honestly don't think I'll give up any power since my exhaust is likely the choke point anyway.
The Engine Manors can usually be "Tamed" with Tuning and a Camshaft change...
that does not affect the Average Torque/ HP very much.
Peak HP would be the most likely area that a decrease in Power would occur (and most likely not very noticeably different).
I've got a buck around 1800 - 2000 rpm that's been very difficult to tame. I keep stripping out timing to neuter the engine and it helps but I've not made it go away and it came back with a vengeance as the weather got colder last fall.
This is something I need to figure out this year for real. Whether it's a different throttle body, experimenting more with tuning changes, or whatever. This is the year it's got to happen!
And maaaaaaybe I'll figure out how to get AC back in the car again. I've got to have a shop reshape the fiberglass housing to fit around the cylinder head. And I want better access to #8 spark plug. Basically have to take some width off the HVAC housing. All the wiring and software already exists in my car for full control of AC compressor by Holley ECM.
But my dream for 3 years now is adaptive traction control. I know how to do it. It's just $$$$ and a tear up of my axle that I've not been willing to do.
No, I don't. Tony Mamo doesn't advertise or even have a catalog on his website. The heads are Trick Flow 260s (LS7) that have been ported to 265 cc intake. The only hint of flow rates was in a post I found at ls1tech, https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...s-begun-4.html
My heads were built January 2017 and that post is October 2017. Probably the same design version at that point. You can get better exhaust porting now.
The intake is a MSD air force also ported by Mamo for this head package. Never seen flow numbers, just know it is typically ~40 RWHP gain over stock LS7 when you've got good heads and cam.
People with E38 ECM are not complaining about problems that I have.
All you had to say was: "MAMO".
I highly doubt there are any issues with those Heads (I mean Design/ Porting wise... of course stupid issues can happen with any head).
Yeah, main thing is I always want to get rid of that 6 month old gas as fast as I can, especially with 11.8 compression. Never had a problem so far but luck can change any year.
I've done a couple alignments at home after putting the suspension back together and I keep ending up with steering wheel left, steering wheel right.... Why is it so hard to end up with steering wheel straight?!
Slowly working on the Speedhut gauge pod. Next step is wiring. My desire is to make this plug and play so that I can swap out stock vs. Speedhut gauge pods any time I want. That by definition means I need to preserve the stock wiring connections to the "green screen" printed circuit film.
Brass screws are used to make electrical connections to stock gauges. I'm doing the same thing with the Speedhut gauges using brass #4-40 machine screws, nuts, and washers.
Inside the gauge pod are ring terminal connections. A washer and jam nut holds the screw in place. Then the ring terminal is sandwiched between two more washers and a ring terminal nut. The washers make the electrical connection to the ring terminal but also provides a slip surface so the ring terminal does not rotate when tightening the nut. I'll end up having a wiring group that terminates at a connector so the gauges can be installed & removed without disturbing the ring terminals.
These are the circuits that operate the stock gauge pack.
And these are the wiring connections to Speedhut gauges.
Oil pressure and coolant temp gauges have sensors unique to the Speedhut gauges. New wires have to be run for these gauges if I want to use it. Unfortunately this is the one part of the gauge pack that is not compatible with stock wiring.
The wiring for backlighting will have to pass thru the gauge pod and connect to the fog light switch connector where I can pick up +12V switched lighting that bypasses the stock dimmer switch.
Inside the gauge pod are ring terminal connections.
What's your tool of choice for crimping the uninsulated ring terminals?
I've got a few controlled cycle crimping pliers for insulated forks and rings but no longer have anything on hand for the uninsulated variety.
What's your tool of choice for crimping the uninsulated ring terminals?
I don't have one yet. Suggestions are welcome. Most I find don't crimp small wire like I have.
I actually wanted open barrel ring terminals where I could use my Metri-Pack crimper, but couldn't find it in #4 ring size. I'd still buy some in a heartbeat if I could find them.
I prefer the T & B ERG2005 which I used to have. I can't find an online listing for it other than T & B's catalog. This would be in an electrical wholesalers database though.
Panduit makes a similar (and better $$) model. The last Panduit crimper I bought cost me $550 USD and that was almost thirty years ago.
There's also this "entry level" tooling but I've no experience with them.
I actually wanted open barrel ring terminals where I could use my Metri-Pack crimper, but couldn't find it in #4 ring size. I'd still buy some in a heartbeat if I could find them.
Happy to have some input.
Now, I'd like to dial in that uninsulated terminal controlled cycle crimp tool. I still need one for myself (I'd probably skip the $25 tool posted) but the pickings are slim at the moment.
On a similar note, which tool do you have for your Metri-Pack style connectors? I need a different model from the one I have.
On a similar note, which tool do you have for your Metri-Pack style connectors? I need a different model from the one I have.
I have a ratcheting Delphi 12085270 (Weather-Pack) that I bought many years ago. It won't do 22 AWG wire though so I recently bought the Sargent 3305 MPCT to compliment it. I don't use any of these tools often enough to keep buying the expensive ratcheting models.
I still need to get a 10 AWG crimper but I'm still choking on the prices.
I have a ratcheting Delphi 12085270 (Weather-Pack) that I bought many years ago. It won't do 22 AWG wire though so I recently bought the Sargent 3305 MPCT to compliment it. I don't use any of these tools often enough to keep buying the expensive ratcheting models.
I still need to get a 10 AWG crimper but I'm still choking on the prices.
I'll look into those tools. Thanks.
As for a 10 AWG crimper, what type of terminal? The typical fork and ring controlled cycle tools are cheap. If it's the Weather Pack style, I'm not informed enough to offer a suggestion.
In my industry, we deal with all manner of terminations but the automotive world is a universe unto itself.
It's unlikely I would ever use wire larger than 10 AWG except for battery cables. I have a big huge battery cable crimper with removable dies that I bought many years ago (also expensive and used once... )
I use the larger multi-die crimpers at work quite often. Aside from battery cables in an automotive application, the #6 (or at least #8) from the alternator to the battery and /or binding post is the other consideration I can think of. At least in my heap anyway.
All of my controlled cycle crimping pliers have a #10 gauge limit. Which can be a real PITA at work or under the hood.
Have you guys looked at any of the Crimpers for the old P.E.D. 56-Series/ 59-Series Terminals?
They are (or at least were) produced for Terminals that are for 6 AWG TXL/ 8 AWG GXL Wire.
I'll go look up the Part Numbers.
Otherwise Delphi used to Produce Crimpers for the Power-Pack 2000/ Hybrid-Electric HV Connectors for Wire down to 00 AWG.
These are no longer produced, but a Hexagonal Battery Cable Crimper also does the Job.
These are no longer produced, but a Hexagonal Battery Cable Crimper also does the Job.
I've used our in house T&B / Panduit / Burndy industrial hex die crimpers for a couple of automotive applications but I've never liked the looked of an industrial lug hanging off of my battery. The automotive stuff tends to be a little more streamlined which is something I appreciate.
I'll be following this thread to see what recommendations and options there might be as I tool up for the next assault on the Camaro's wiring.
FWIW, the tools I think I have. At least those that should do the various jobs. It's the terminals and connector bodies that I haven't researched. But I've started.
I spoke to a technical rep at Speedhut to get answers to a few remaining questions about how the gauges work.
Apparently it's not just the Revolution gauges that aren't compatible with OE style temp and pressure sensors, it's all their gauges. They made a change some time ago after fielding too many technical calls where people were not properly grounding sensors. So now all the pressure and temp sensors either ground back to ECM or have a 5V reference. Also, the sensors are unique to Speedhut and not common with an OEM.
Bottom line is if I want the Speedhut gauges then I have to run new wires for coolant temp and oil pressure and use their sensors. I'm not so in love with these gauges that I want to wire for it.
Bottom line is if I want the Speedhut gauges then I have to run new wires for coolant temp and oil pressure and use their sensors. I'm not so in love with these gauges that I want to wire for it.[/QUOTE]
It would appear that this is common for most aftermarket gauges now. The Dakota Digital gauges that I am using have the same stand alone sensors, and I was given the same reason for this. It could be that we are both using LS based engines and the gauges control units are not compatible with the sensors for these engines. I was able to add the required harnesses for the oil and temperature because I had a blank slate at the time with the dash and powertrain removed. If it's any constellation, adding the harnesses to the engine bundle is not really that bad, it's rewiring and running everything under the dash that is the most difficult for individuals of my generation. I think we have all learned that building custom cars is not always easy. Good luck!
If it's any constellation, adding the harnesses to the engine bundle is not really that bad, it's rewiring and running everything under the dash that is the most difficult for individuals of my generation. I think we have all learned that building custom cars is not always easy. Good luck!
Agreed. I'm using GPS for speedo and an autometer tach signal from the coils for tach. The rest I used the sending units from autometer. The hard part, to soloc's point, was wiring all the LED lights into the under dash harness. Check engine, turn signals, parking brake and brite lights indicator was brutal. It would be so much easier if someone made a harness adapter that would plug into the dash harness and just give you wired leads. This single handedly was the most challenging portion of my build.
This is another example of where Holley "Swooped-In" and made yet another Cash-Cow for themselves!
For years and years, I would install Autometer Instruments and Sending-Units into my Customer's Vehicles...
Then on top of that, I would install the required Sensors for a corresponding EFI/ Engine-Management System.
Holley said: "O Know You Didn't!"
One set of Sensors for both the Instruments (Can-Bus) and the EFI System.
...And of course none of the Instruments of Digital-Displays are very affordable.
However...
One of my "Selling Points" for Holley EFI (over another Brand/ Product) is the extremely simple Can-Bus integration of Gauges.
I spoke to a technical rep at Speedhut to get answers to a few remaining questions about how the gauges work.
Apparently it's not just the Revolution gauges that aren't compatible with OE style temp and pressure sensors, it's all their gauges. They made a change some time ago after fielding too many technical calls where people were not properly grounding sensors. So now all the pressure and temp sensors either ground back to ECM or have a 5V reference. Also, the sensors are unique to Speedhut and not common with an OEM.
Bottom line is if I want the Speedhut gauges then I have to run new wires for coolant temp and oil pressure and use their sensors. I'm not so in love with these gauges that I want to wire for it.
I've got a bunch of Speedhut gauges in a box from I think ~2010 or 2011, maybe a little earlier. Did they tell when they changed over? I'm also on the fence about swapping to them (after all these years)...
You know those Holley gauges look a whole lot like Speedhut Revolution gauges.... just sayin'.
I'm going to call Speedhut and see if they can make a 4" gauge using the Holley CAN bus.
Speedhut does make the Holley EFI gauges but they can't do it in a dual gauge format. It's not something they've ever developed whether GM or Holley CAN bus.
So, 3.1EyeCandy .... what version of Oil Pressure and Temp gauge do you have and are you in a selling mood?
I was a little annoyed with the tune this spring thinking idle lost a bit of good behavior. Just discovered I didn't hook up the TPS after changing the oil pump. I don't know how the heck the car drove so good without it but it was almost entirely imperceptible other than having a little trouble with idle. I guess I must have the AE vs. MAP really dialed in or something! LOL!
Speedhut does make the Holley EFI gauges but they can't do it in a dual gauge format. It's not something they've ever developed whether GM or Holley CAN bus.
So, 3.1EyeCandy .... what version of Oil Pressure and Temp gauge do you have and are you in a selling mood?
They're in a box at the moment. I'll dig them out over the next week or so. You wouldn't want mine though. They're not the dual gauge format.
I was a little annoyed with the tune this spring thinking idle lost a bit of good behavior. Just discovered I didn't hook up the TPS after changing the oil pump. I don't know how the heck the car drove so good without it but it was almost entirely imperceptible other than having a little trouble with idle. I guess I must have the AE vs. MAP really dialed in or something! LOL!
Yup it’s spot on or the weather wasn’t far off from when you tuned it sd or weather is consistent
when i tune with HP and Tuner cat I notice difference on colder nights
Last edited by Zach/90\irocZ; 05-02-2022 at 04:22 AM.
Lighting board clips into stock light bulb cradle. The extra wire plugs onto one of the posts that hold the headliner in place (serves as a secondary ground). The light is very directional and lacks the flooding effect that you get with stock so most the lighting intensity goes straight down into the backseat area and is more dim up front in the cab. I didn't take a picture of cargo light but it's just a board with no extra wire.
interesting. but the pop-up headlight delete, sacreligious! I've wondered if LED's draw less power, I know they should, but do they? never studied them for automotive.
I've got a buck around 1800 - 2000 rpm that's been very difficult to tame. I keep stripping out timing to neuter the engine and it helps but I've not made it go away and it came back with a vengeance as the weather got colder last fall.
Seems like I get my hopes up every year and the problem comes back but I got to say.... I just went for a near perfect drive. I finally got hold of someone else's tune that was well developed and I could see what I was doing wrong.
I put all the timing back in the spark map for throttle response. Then I made a custom 2D table that pulls timing at very low TPS. Similar to the GM concept of high octane versus idle timing tables. Then I changed from speed density to VE and smoothed the fuel. Big improvement. It's crazy to see an engine like this cruise at 1400 RPM through town.
03-15-2022, 11:56 PM
I don't know how the heck the car drove so good without it but it was almost entirely imperceptible other than having a little trouble with idle. I guess I must have the AE vs. MAP really dialed in or something! LOL! 
It's crazy to see an engine like this cruise at 1400 RPM through town.