QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

The other thing I did was install a longer shift handle. The MGW shifter is such a short throw that it's really just too tight and confusing at times. They sell a 1" longer shift handle and that was the hot ticket for me. Feels noticeably taller, easier throw, and more distinctive feel between gates. I like it much better!




Longer shift handle installed. Not as cool looking as when the grip was tucked down almost to console height, but now more usable for me and a better position with hand closer to steering wheel.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I've been looking for a good set of '82 sill plates for many years. That was the only year without a lower retractor on the seat belt so it's kind of a rare and desirable item to finish off the interior if you've done a 4th gen seat belt swap (like I did).

Years ago I found a passenger side sill plate in real good condition. And I found another driver side burgundy sill plate that was mostly good but had a round spot smashed in. Fortunately the cracks were all interior and didn't extend to the edges, so the sill plate still had structural integrity. I popped the plastic back in place, end drilled the cracks, and stuffed the cracks full of epoxy meant for plastic bumpers. A local paint store sold me a spray can of adhesion promoter, and made up another spray can of custom color to match my interior. I've never done anything like this before, and honestly could do better with another attempt. But it ain't going to crack any more and it ain't burgundy either, so overall a lot better than what I started with!

I've waited 6 years to do this mod and the grand moment came.... and wouldn't you know that the seat belts don't even line up with the slots in the sill plates? After all that I can't even use them!








Update: I went ahead and installed without routing the seat belt through the sill plate. This wouldn't work for most people but does for me because the seat belt goes to the inside of the roll cage anyway.

skinny z

Nice work though!

427seven

i need me a pair o' those.....

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Well, that's disapointing, I bought a pair of these years ago with the intent of doing the same thing.

Pictures of them not lining up?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Ya, but first let me fiddle with it again. Basically the seat belt has to be tilted much further forward than I'm used to. Not sure whether the plastic sheath will fit through the slot either, might have to remove that from seat belt too.

Chuck!

Did I ask this before? How does your MGW shifter sit in the console? Mine sits way right and 5/6/R all hit the right side of the console.

I did the DSE steering shaft before I did the Turnone box and the shaft was as much of an upgrade as the box was, but that was vs the old worn out rag joint. I do love that steering box though.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Shifter is almost centered, just a touch rearward and a smidge to the right. (a touch is more than a smidge)
BMR K-member and F-body T56 trans. And the handle clamp is oriented at the 9 o'clock position (all the way left).




See, I have scrap HVAC sheet metal on the trans tunnel, and my console isn't bolted down because the plastic holes blew out. The radio pod is half made of silver duct tape, and the radio is just tossed in the hole. So, you know, everything fits perfect that way guaranteed.

Chuck!

haha. I think I may have worn out motor mounts, I'm using the BMR kmember and my MGW is oriented the same way. I actually ground off the right side of the orange block trying to get another 1/4" of clearance. Going to try the new BMR poly mounts when I swap the LS7 and see if that fixes it.

Ahhhh hot rodding... always works out like its supposed to.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I'll tell ya, the ups and downs of custom cars never ends. The 'Bird is grounded again.

Wouldn't start at gas station and couldn't hear the fuel pump prime. I did get fuel pressure during crank but it was all over the place. You know, just enough to flood but not enough to run. Fiddled with some things, checked fuse, wriggled wires, flicked the relay with my finger, re-flashed the ECM, cleared flood. Counted myself lucky that it started and I got home. Exhaust doesn't smell right and fuel pressure is 1 psi below normal. There were some young men in a modern VW tuner admiring the car at the gas station and kind of waiting to see if I could get it running. After it fired up I tell them, "Old cars can be fun but they're a pain in the ***!"

Get home and the fuel pump won't misbehave (of course), except fuel pressure is still off by a hair. Do a bunch of fuel primes and check for leaks. Sure enough, I see a puddle under the back. Oh, nope.... that's axle oil. Way too much axle oil. I guess I should count myself lucky again that I caught it early.

That thing can just sit there until I feel like working on it again.

skinny z

Grrr.

alan91z28

i feel your pain! i was upgrading a fuel pump in one of my 3rd gens yesterday and had it all ready to go only to find out i got a bad Walbro right out of the box, wouldn't pump a drop! At least with the 4th gen tank i am able to actually get it back out in less than an hour but i usually use the pump to empty the tank into a can so this was a little heavier with 7 gallons of fuel in it, but still way easier than a third gen tank since you can easily take the neck on and off prior to putting up or down the tank. Bummer is won't have a new pump until wednesday

maks10

My guess is it won’t sit long lol unless you have another cool car sitting around. I know it’s cliche but it could of been worse. These cars keep us learning and no question a blast to drive even with their quirks lol. Good luck fixing it!

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

unleass it is a spun axle tube, or a leak at the pinion seal, I think you will get it fixed up pretty quick. its the time of the year to enjoy the car as much as you can! you are a smart enough guy and I know you will have it figured out soon. in my inexperienced opinion, a 1 psi lower fuel pressure shouldn't be enough to cause it to not start. would it?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Quick question for you guys: When you pull the pinion yoke from a 12 bolt, does it allow the splined shaft to wobble around real easy? Or should that be rock solid?

Spending a little time under the car with the axle, I notice it has hit about everything under there. It hits the sway bar, it has hit the panhard support bar, it has hit the tunnel, and it has hit the gas tank!!! What the frick is left that it hasn't hit???

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

It's a tight workspace under the car so I can't see inside the hole, but I think an outer bearing supports everything and the splined shaft will flop around until it's inserted in the yoke. Thinking everything is normal.

alan91z28

when you take the yoke off you have taken the pre-load off the bearings so it is going to move around... the large bearing on the pinion would be pressed on but the front bearing is pretty much a slip fit and then you have the crush sleeve. taking the yoke off would allow the pinion to wobble as the only part at that point is truly tight is the large bearing at the pinion end. when you put the yoke back on you are really trying to set the preload on the bearing. normally that is done with advancing the nut and crushing the sleeve while you watch for a certain torque needed to free rotate the bearing without the ring gear in. if you measured the position of the nut to the pinion shaft before you took it off you should be able to reasonably put it back in place

92BLKL98

On a 10 bolt there is a specified torque you use if not replacing the crush sleeve for proper bearing preload. I would assume the 12 bolt could be the same procedure.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Thanks for the help, guys. Got the pinion seal changed out. Not a difficult job, just really slow being my first time. I triple checked the nut position before removal by paint marking it, counting threads of engagement, and measuring with a caliper how deep the nut was installed on the pinion. I re-installed the nut just a hair past that mark. Used a Ratech pinion seal p/n 6109. Apparently the Strange axle can accommodate a car or truck seal.

I was driving through the brakes trying to remove and install the nut by hand. My air impact wrench is worthless so ended up borrowing a friend's Milwaukee battery powered impact.... Wow, what a sweet tool! That's going on my Christmas list. I drove the seal in place using a 2x4 with a hole in it that slipped over the pinion. Whacked on the wood so I didn't damage the seal itself.

Regarding fuel pump, I did a data log and suspect something might be amiss with vehicle power distribution, or maybe just power to the Holley ECM. Not working with much evidence yet, wish it would just flat out stop working again so I could figure it out. You know what I should do is trailer it to a track and flog on it and I won't care or be stranded if it stops running.

skinny z

It's on my list too. We had one in the community tool kit on track days. Made the change to slicks and back so much easier.



There is something to be said for that. While I'm only 25 minutes from the local track, having to get towed home would be a major PITA. And then there's the question of whether my AAA membership would even come to the track to get me. I'd probably have to push the car off the property.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Got tired of just going around the block over and over trying to make the fuel pump misbehave so I went for a real drive. Fuel pressure is falling to 52 psi at WOT and the ECM went into knock retard for the first time ever. Something ain't right.

obeymybird

iTrader: (4)

We got a bad luck streak going on or maybe are cars got the Covid...

Im running the aeromotive 340 pump in my ls1 tank but really dont care for the plastic spring loaded bucket so im pretty much set on putting in the aeromotive tank.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Yeah same kind of thinking here, if I'm dropping the tank then it's not likely that I'll be doing the same thing again. I think I'll be maxing out a 340 pump on gasoline and it would be nice to have more pump to go E85. Nasty Performance also sells some tanks (in-tank pump and/or sump style).

Chuck!

Our combos are similar... I called aeromotive and they swore up and down that the 340lph pump with 6an line was fine at 700-800 hp na. They said "thousands" of cars run this combo at that level. So I'm excited to see fuel starvation the first time I go WOT.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Fuel tank is on the ground. I used the pump to remove 15 gallons of fuel and then the tank came out real easy with the axle still in place. Gotta love the flexible filler neck on a 4th gen tank!

It's been a little hard figuring out what to do next with so many options that each have pro's and con's. Anything bigger than a Wabro GSS pump in the 4th gen tank means the bucket will get cut up and won't serve its primary function to always submerge the pump. I looked at a really nice aftermarket fabricated tank but that path is sooooo expensive! But I think I might have found the lazy way out.

Racetronix now sells a "340" pump that they say keeps the bucket in tact and maintains the siphon system. I cross-checked against the latest Walbro catalog and it looks like this is a new version of the GSS pump with a 345 L/hr rating. And it seems Racetronix has their own proprietary version with the siphon to fill the bucket. Best part though is it is CHEAP! $250 for a fully assembled bucket with the pump installed. And this is Racetronix so we're talking high quality parts and assembly. They don't do hack jobs. The pump might be marginal for what I need but I’m willing to try. I will have to change over my fuel lines to an external pressure regulator though.

Walbro 2020 catalog, http://21h1yp1945ct18r0ws184hb2-wpen...ms-Catalog.pdf


First up is a new 0-90 Ohm fuel level sender needed to make the stock fuel gage work properly (AC Delco part number 25319676, also sold as SK1083). All I want is the resistor assembly and wires. De-pin the wires from the connector and toss the leftover wires and connectors. Props to Scooter for the tip.




Do the same to the fuel pump module and toss the 4th gen sender. Install the 0-90 Ohm sender (shown) and install the wires in the connector that came with the Racetronix fuel module. Don’t forget to put the blue retainer clip in the back of the connector.




The Racetronix bucket is the OEM style, so the new Grand Prix 0-90 Ohm sender will slide onto the locating rails, but the retainer clip will miss the slot and the sender will eventually slide down and fall off into the fuel tank. To prevent this, I drilled a small hole in the sender and fed a zip-tie thru and secured the sender to the slot on the bucket. Zip tie can be seen in the previous picture. Props to alan91z28 for that tip.




Put the fuel pump connector back in place and don’t forget to re-install the red keeper.




Snap the 4th gen float in place. Done. That's what I call EASY!!!

• Update: See Post #1479 for an even better solution for swapping the resistor card, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post6390745
• See Post #1504 for wiring of pump, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post6395078

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

The next part is not so easy and not so cheap. This got ridiculously expensive in fact. More about that after I progress further.

soloc4

If the new bucket has the 4th gen regulator (stock bucket), you are going to want to remove it when you add the external bypass regulator at the fuel rails. You don't want competing regulators.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I didn't like the thought of using a zip tie or anything in the bucket like that so I pulled that retainer clip that held the board in the plastic housing and slid the board out and inserted in the factory 4th gen housing so it all worked like stock.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

That is such a fantastic idea! I can't believe I didn't think of that.

Popped the retaining clip out the back side and pulled the card. Reversed the procedure to install in the holder that comes with the Racetronix bucket assembly.




Assembled unit ready to go. No zip ties, no hacks, no cutting, no soldering, no holes. Just like the factory would have done it.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Yep, true words. Racetronix 340 assembly does not have an internal regulator. They already take care of that for you. Literally no rework needed except installing the 0-90 Ohm resistor card. I thought it was a fantastic deal for the price!

skinny z

This is what makes this forum the gem that it is. Lots of tech. Plenty of help. And very little posturing.

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

awesome update! if I ever have to redo my fuel pump/sending unit combination, I have to remember to come back to this part of your thread and utilize some of this info!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I always leave myself a crumb trail in post #1 of this thread with direct links to subject matter like this. You'll find everything organized and easy to find. I don't like hunting for stuff either and that's my lifeline to finding stuff quick.

alan91z28

Is the unit supplied by racetronix all new? From your photo the top and the bucket itself seem to be made out of a different material (just based on the photo brightness of how the materials look)... it is great they are supplying a good new option as it seems like most of the pump assembly suppliers of the 4th gen renewal parts have moved to a different pump assembly deleting the venturi and making it not practical to just buy the racetronix pump and install into a new assembly

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Yep, all new. And it's got all their upgrades too. I didn't even know it existed until I called and talked to them

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Got all set up to install the pump module and saw the connector is the wrong style. More waiting.... more irritation.

98blackss

I have seen on a few builds here a part I am searching for but don't know what to call it or can I find it on any GM Parts documentation. The part is a throttle cable bracket that mounts on or around the intake at the #5 cylinder position. It corrals the throttle cable on an LS swapped third gen as the cable comes out of the firewall and loops over to the driver side where it connects to the throttle body. A close up picture would be awesome!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

FAST LS3 intake: I used a throttle cable bracket from a 1999-2002 V8 Camaro/Firebird. See the last picture in Post #182. I bought it from Scoggin Dickey many years ago. Sorry, I don't have the part number written down. The rest of the cable is pinned down by simply routing it under the driver side fuel rail.

MSD LS7 intake: I made my own throttle cable bracket. The bracket provided by MSD hit the hood. By that time the cable had already taken a set from years of use and naturally laid down on the engine without any extra help.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Another Heidts disaster. Padhard bar lowering kit. Don't bother, doesn't fit.

Brace bar hits the fuel tank. Upper bracket holes are misaligned and bracket requires lots of grinding to fit. Had to weld shut some holes and re-drill. Lower bracket is relatively okay but not really intended to be used with control arm drop brackets. Will require some bending to use that way.

Hands down the most disorganized place I've ever seen too. They don't know what they're selling. They don't know what to pack in the box. You'll never know what you're really getting until it arrives. Missing parts. Extra parts (yes, that can co-exist with missing parts). Some parts rusted to hell (I painted some of it). Lost my order multiple times and took months to resolve. Kit is incomplete (even if it was right) and you'll never be able to finish the job. Took many months to get it. But none of that matters because it ain't going to fit anyway.

This is the third product I've had from them and it's strike 3. Time to remove Heidts from my internet bookmarks. Never need to visit their site ever again.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

Yikes. What lured you to Heidts? They "seem" to have a solid catalog but I never see posted experience. I've been warming up to founders. Their stuff is really well made and fits excellent. Cheaper than UMI, which I'm also highly fond of.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

They have good ideas and interesting looking stuff. They fumble the details. Any other place could make it work and be successful with it.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

Makes me wonder about their rear IRS....

alan91z28

I pretty much now use UMI Performance products. While no one is perfect i have found them to have well thought out products and when i have had a question, issue, or suggestion they have been responsive to discussing my thoughts. The one thing they do need to work on is coming up with a trans cross-member / torque arm mounting improvement... right now i use the holley/hooker double hump with a UMI torque arm

however in regards to panhard, i have used a couple of these already and have had good success

https://www.umiperformance.com/home/...location-kits/

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I can salvage the brace bar and probably use anybody's brackets, or make my own. I think that's where I'm going with it.

In other news, I fitted the Recaro seats. Not a fan. Very uncomfortable. Hard as a rock, no support for the lower back, not wide enough in the lats, seat belt wants to choke off my carotid artery. Clothes stick to it. I like the extending leg support though. Honestly, you'd think a $3K seat would feel better??? Glad I bought them at a used price.

StevenK

iTrader: (1)

I'll be honest I like those black leather seats way more.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Things weren't exactly going fast but have now flat out come to a halt. Destroyed my ankle and took a hard fall in the garage. Pretty much stuck on the couch for a while. Not sure I'll be able to get back to this before winter.

Might have to remove the pump from the fuel tank to keep it from rusting, and just let things sit until spring. Although, I have a feeling I'll get pretty bored and end up wheeling around on the creeper to get it back together. Won't do no good though until I can drive again.

alan91z28

Hope you recover quickly! If your pump and tank are all set up, might be easier to just fill the tank with a couple jerry cans in the garage than pull the whole thing back out

V6canvas

iTrader: (1)

Ouch, sorry to hear that, hope you don't have to go through too much pain, and the recovery is quick.

3.1EyeCandy

iTrader: (3)

Get well soon Qwk. Thanks for being a good resource around here.

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

oh no, sorry to hear that. kinda a setback indeed. that is ok, the car can wait.