Hey guys I'm swapping in a forged 402ci lq9 into my iroc and I'm wondering if anyone else is using the z bar setup found in early third gens. I previously ran this setup with my turbocharged 383sbc behind a tko 500 trans and centerforce clutch and it worked great. I bought the conversion flywheel for my lq9 so I can still use my bell housing and pressure plate and clutch.
Now the problem lies in the zbar ball pivot. The ls motors don't have a provision for it, so I found a bracket from SDPC that mounts from the bell housing positioning the z bar ball in the right place. I have two questions; will the ball be in the right spot considering I have a blow proof bell which is much thinner than a factory aluminum bell (which this bracket was designed for) and will the factory 02 f body exhaust manifolds clear the z bar?

I know not many people run the z bar setup but figured I'd give it a try. And no I will not be going hydrolic clutch. Thanks guys any input is appreciated.

 

Ask five7kid....

 

Ok I pm'd him. Anyone else?

 

Hmm I just re-read your initial post and see that you may be referring to something other than I was thinking. Are you talking about Petes Z bars which are a double control arm type deal used for eliminating the torque arm? Or something else?

 

No I'm referring to a z bar operated clutch setup that came on early third gens.

 

Five7kid didn't have anything for me. Said he hadn't seen a zbar since 1978 lol

 

That explains the PM...


He's talking about "something else" like this:
http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mv...ode=camaro6769

 

Actually, I said I haven't "dealt" with a z-bar since 1978...

 

Yea that's it lol I believe its also called a bell crank or bellcrank.

 

I see what you mean about making a new bracket but I just wanna make sure it goes in the right spot. I'm not sure how crucial it is with all the angles and geometry involved. Say if its off half an inch then suddenly the clutch doesn't fully engage then you'd have to elongate the lever to compensate and then it pushes it too far yada yada. Again I'm not too sure how crucial it is tho.

 

Geez bell crank wow I havent had the pleasure since my BBC 4spd Nova LOL. Sorry man cant help ya other than suggest a modern hydraulic swap

 

Switching to hydraulic is not an option for me right now as I would have to switch too many parts. Also the hydraulic setups are terrible and known for not disengaging at higher rpms. I'd have to switch everything now that I think of it. Or at least the pedals and bell housing.

 

A properly working hydraulic system WILL work great. Tick master cylinder and new GM slave cylinder will usually prove to work quite well.

I have seen guys use manual linkage set ups with these drivetrains...however I cant recall them ever being in a thidgen. Seen it done in mustangs. Also seen some cable setups that looked pretty good.

You might have to create your own solution...or make the switch to hydro. Which might be a bit of a chore at this point...

Whatever you come up with...PLEASE post your results for the next guy that comes along. That would be great info to have on the boards or to have submitted into the swap stickies. I doubt many folks will have the same issue...but its good info regardless.

J.

 

Ill probably modify the sdpc bracket to work. So I'm probably the only Guy on this forum running a z bar? Its just too much to swap to hydraulic now... ill get it to work thanks guys.

 

Once you get into it you will quickly see how 1/4" here or there can wreak havoc on your travel and leave you with no air gap and you clutch doesn't work for ****.

Check this out for some ideas.


http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...4-6-liter.html

See in the second pic with the motor on the hoist? Look at the front of the bell where it meets the block. He fab'd a mount for a custom pivot ball plate…

Then in post 7 here you can see the mount…

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...-template.html

No matter how you go about it, it will have to be custom made. I too have looked into this and when I finally go LS I will need to make a mount as well because I plan to retain my mechanical linkage.

 

http://sdparts.com/catalog/transmiss...-ball-brackets

Thanks that helps alot .I have the bracket on the right I believe the one on the left is for those 70s vettes. I'm pretty sure the bracket I have would've worked if I had a regular aluminum bell housing, but mine is steel so its thinner and it throws the positioning off. So what I am going to do is take some measurements of my existing setup to determine where the ball needs to be in relation to the bell housing. My trans will stay in its current location so pulling measurements from there should tell me exactly where the ball needs to be. Ill just modify the bracket I have or make a new one. It does sound like the Guy in those posts had to clearance the exhaust manifold tho. He said ls6 manifolds, ls6 as in vette or fbody manifolds?

 

I would (if it were me) weld the hole up and drill a new on where needed. Like you said, do all measuring now with the original setup so you know right where it needs to be and make it work however needed on the LS swap. Shouldn't be to terribly hard.

As far as what exhaust he is using, your guess is as good as mine. I only payed attention to the z bar information. Headers would be the last thing I would build once everything is in the car and working correctly.

Keep this updated, be interesting to see how yours comes out and works for you. Good luck!

 

I want to use factory manifolds for now because ill be using custom stainless headers facing forward to mate up with the 88 mm turbonetics Turbo I have but for now I'd like to put the motor in naturally aspirated until my brother is ready to do the Turbo setup. Guess ill just have to mock up different manifolds to see which ones will clear the z bar.