ericgzhc4t

Here it is 1986 Trans Am:
motor: 1995 LT-1 with T-56 6 Speed with 4th gen rear end(LS1)
NEW parts bought:
1. New Accel Distributor(Opti Spark Complete)
2. MAP Sensor
3. TPS Sensor
4. Temp Sensor (Guage )
5. MSD Wires
6. MSD Coil
7. NEW Ignition Module
8. New Mass Air Flow Sensor (LS1)
9. New Water Pump
10. New Radiator

Problem:!!!!! This morning when I went to turn on my car, it would just crank and not turn over. So I floored the gas pedal to the floor to activate the (bypass mode on LT1s) would start but sounded like I had a huge cam and the car would turn off if i let go of the gas.
NEXT: I unplugged the MAF sensor and floored the gas pedal again, the car turned on, while it turned on I let go of the gas and the car stayed on this time but it still idled kinda rough, it took about 3-5 minutes to "warm" up and the car idled perfect so I plugged the connector to the MAF sensor and the car worked fine.
I need to mention that I do have the temp sensor that is on the water pump disconnected and I have a painless wiring aftermarket fan thermostat and relay kit in place of where the Temp sensor is supposed to be at, so I have the temp sensor disconnected.
Would this cause it to flood at startup, the weird thing is that Ive been driving it fine for months now, cam home on Friday perfect, didn't use the car on Sat. or Sun. then yesterday(Monday) this crap started. Any ideas
Please let me know,
I haven't changed out the O2 sensors yet, the car has Brand new BBK Headers w/y-pipe and new Magna Flow Exhuast.......

Airick.........

1981LT1

iTrader: (1)

It may not be the cause of your problems but having the CTS disconnected is definately not a good thing. The computer needs to know the input from that sensor so it can determine cold start mode, and open/closed loop operation. I would think that if you could reconnect that sensor the engine would run much better. Also, when you disconnected your MAF, did it throw a code?

ericgzhc4t

Well the check engine light was already on, but the "donor" car has an OBDII style connector but I'm told that since this is a 95 model engine that I have to use a special reader to retreive the codes. Another thing, after the car is "warmed up" with out the MAF connected, if i turn off the car and then turn it back on it fires right up perfect. BUT if I connect the MAF back up and i turn the car off and then tuirn it back on it takes about 3-4 seconds of cranking until it fires up. I'm going to connect my painless wiring temp sensor to the passenger side cylinder head but it has a square head plug, I tried a 3/8 rachet and 1/4 rachet but they dont fit..
Thanks,

Airick....

ericgzhc4t

UPDATE: Well I took my car to a friends shop and we put his AutoXray scanner to the car and it was showing that Temp Sending Unit was malfunctioning (I never had it on the water pump due to the painless wiiring temp sensor connected). The Scanner said that the computer was showing that the temp was -40 degrees below zero which was why the computer was basically opening the injector cycle to the max to start the car in cold weather and due to this the car would run in open loop mode and cause it to run ruch which my friend said when we had the scanner with the car on. I took off the temp sending unit from the drivers side head and installed the painless sensor so my cooling fans can turn on at 180 degrees instead of 236 from the factory. I'll be sacrificing not being able to see what temp my car is running at until I find out what size the square plug on the passenger side if the head is.
Thanks for all the help !!!!
now the car turns on like it should really quick none of this 3-5 seconds of cranking
Airick.....