BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

I had my tune finished a few months ago since I bought a new MAF, and hadn't had it dyno'd since then. Today I got four pulls at PUR Performance in St Charles, MO. The listed pulls are not in chronological order, the last one listed was actually the first run, (the only run I did in 3rd gear). The first one listed was my second run. The second listed run was my 3rd actual run and was my highest number, and the last pull was the 3rd one listed.


Over all I'm very happy. I've got a few parts on my Christmas list, like a FAST intake/TB combo, 12 bolt or 9", and maybe next summer I'll get the AFR heads.


The A/F during the runs was spot-on, which made me VERY happy. I'm taking it to the drag strip this evening and going to try and get in a run or two before I go all out and get kicked out for no roll bar.







Here's the lowest pull, 3rd gear

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vo84h950c3o




And the highest pull, a 4th gear run


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23kQO7zL8fg

1nasty86

iTrader: (5)

good hp numbers! congrats

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

what's the general combo again? 6.0L, what compression, heads, cam and converter?

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Thanks!

It's basically cam only...

MS4 which is 239/242, 650-ish lift can't remember, on a 111LSA.

Milled, un-ported 317's, 10.6:1 CR, forged pistons and rods, LS6 intake, stock truck TB, longtubes and a 3" y pipe dumped, and a bunch of little stuff like an underdrive crank pulley, etc.

And it's a T56 not an auto.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

I edited the original post to include the two videos.

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

Man that's impressive!

The power-per-cubic inch has me wondering if this is a better install
than the Bigblock!!

Can this be done without a computer // ECM?

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Sure if you go carb, there's a bunch of guys running around with non-EFI setups. I wouldn't do it personally but it's your choice.

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

those are some great numbers, congrats!

383tpimachine

What rear do you have?

good numbers for a cam only.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Stock 4th gen 10 bolt, 3.42 gears. I'm going to be saving over the winter to buy either a 12 bolt or 9" with 4.10s and just swap over the brakes.

383tpimachine

No hard launches til then. 225 AFRs should get you a good jump in power. Bud of mine was putting down 480rwhp with them and a similar sized custom cam. I would switch cams when you do heads and get comp to custom grind one.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

The cam is going to get changed eventually anyways. My 3 year goal is to have a big single, front mount turbo.

robbe_iroc

Sweet numbers!
Those power and torque curves look really good too, especially since you´re running a more angry cam in that block, strong engine from low to high revs is just what I want to make out of my LS2 someday too. Maybe the MS4 cam is the way to go.
You should be very close to 500 horses on the crank, not bad at all. Congrats.
I hope you can get some good times at the track now too, it´s not that easy with a manual car, but I´m sure the tick MC get thing a little easier once youre off down the track/R

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Yea we'll see what it runs at the track. Funny you should mention the Tick MC. I don't know what is wrong with my transmission setup, but the pressure I feel on the clutch pedal is so unpredictable. Sometimes it's really light, sometimes it's firm, sometimes I have to push it in further than other times to get it to shift. I'm not sure what the issue is now, I thought the Tick was going to fix everything for me,maybe I have a bad slave cylinder or pressure plate?

BlueMagicSS

NICE NUMBERS!!! Can't wait to see what you run at the track

355tpipickup

iTrader: (5)

very nice! subed to see what kind of 1/4 numbers you run!

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

Nice pull!

dynodanmanda79

iTrader: (1)

Very nice man! thanks for taking videos, your car sounds mean as hell!

Shift06

Nice run, but looks like they stole their logo! Copyright infringment lol!



More or less anyways. lol When I saw the dyno sheet I was wondering why Pur water filters was sponsoring it? lmao

Z28FAST1

That beast screams!!! Great numbers, could only imagine what it will put down after heads and fast intake!!!!

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Very nice numbers for basically a cam only car

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Anddddd... 1/4 mile of 30.115 @ 23.95mph.

10 bolt is toast, broke it on the first run.

1nasty86

iTrader: (5)

damn! that sucks. 12, 9', 60, or 8.8 time!!

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Those are LS1 cam and bolt on numbers that i usually see, i bet that dyno just reads low, sorry your 10 bolt took a dump, LOL.

Shift06

That really sucks to hear, you didn't even get one run Oh well, time to upgrade

stoning_volcom

hey bluez i live in springfield illinois. When i get me car ill get it dynoed in st. charles you should come there man...... wont be for awhile but ya

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Yea my wife is totally pissed. I have a friend that offered to sell me another 4th gen 10 bolt for $100 just to get it running temporarily, and she doesn't want to even let me do that. I think she wants to punish me by making it sit until I can afford a 12 bolt.


That would be awesome, you'll have to give me a heads up when it's done.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

My 10-bolt didn't start making noise until after the 2nd pass (I left pretty soft on the first pass). The 4th gen aluminum driveshaft lost it on the 9th pass. I didn't bother with the 10-bolt again after that (I had a steel driveshaft made, and the gears were louder than open exhaust - that spooked me enough to not want to see if I could actually break the 10-bolt). One of the axles is messed up enough that we can't even get the C-clip out to see if the posi is still any good.

BlueMagicSS

Wow.... sucks to hear about the 10 bolt carnage.... at least it's upgrade time...

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Dang...sorry to hear about your break. Man...sounds like a few of us are finding carnage these days haha. Yours will be fixed before mine at least! Wife punishment or not!

But either way...those are some great numbers. Thats where I was hoping my car was at. Im starting to consider this 6.0 option with my heads...

Car looks and sounds great as usual!

Justin

cam-

I've broken so many stock diffs. 3rd gen 4th gen they're all Junko and not worth replacing.

I tore mine down recently to rebuild the clutch packs in the posi and one of my axles had a slight twist to the splines. Wicked!!!

Mind you i was biting HARD and with 275/50/17 MT et street DR's there is zero sidewall absorption so I should probably invest in some proper slicks to at least cushion the launch a little.

bad86z28

iTrader: (1)

Those are very similar numbers to what I made with the '86 on the setup in my sig. That's unfortunate about your 10 bolt. I never took my car to the track but I used to ride around on the 275 MT DR's and never had a problem with my 10-bolt and I wasn't very kind to it all. Guess I was just lucky. Although I did have an aluminum T/A girdle which probably helped out some.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

I guess I forgot to add the link to the carnage. I posted it on LS1tech but not here


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZguAJ8XrTo

BlueMagicSS

Ouch....

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

There was quite a few people that recognized the car from local forums and such, and they walked up to me after I got back to the parking lot and they all had the same expression on their faces:

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Man...that stinks. First time down the track too. Could have held together for at least a couple good runs right??? haha.

Keep your eyes peeled for good deals out there. I know you (and the Mrs.) arent looking forward to putting a bunch of money into it ,but there are good deals on rears out there. You can sometimes find a good deal on a 12-bolt floating around in the classifieds over on tech.

Then there's always the build your own axle route. Not sure about where you live, but around here, 8.8s are a dime a dozen. I can pull 4.10, limited slip, disc brake 8.8s for $50 at my local yard. Some brackets and a torque arm mount and youre in business.

Just hate to see you put something stock back in there because you dont need to be at the track for your combo to eat stock axles.

J.

Atilla the Fun

Following the dyno results forum on ls1tech, virtually NO 5.7s reach 400 RWTQ.
Your results look good, especially 3300-6500.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Thanks, that means a lot coming from you.

Atilla the Fun

Being an LSx combo, I'm not claiming the expertise here that I do with SBC V8s. I appreciate the compliment, but the man to ask, in my mind, is Pat G on ls1tech.com. If he says it's good numbers considering the parts, then you have good reason to celebrate.
Still, it seems very strong, and nothing to be ashamed of.

robbe_iroc

Crap....hate the sound of rear ends dying like that, and happens i does with ten bolt rears....It´s basically the same axle as Volvo here in Sweden used for 20 years on the 140 and 240 series cars....and they had 130 horses...What were GM-thinking when they put them behind the LS1 cars???
Was your rear completely stock? I´ve upgraded mine with a TA girdle and the other bolts holding thebearing caps for my 3:73 Auburn Posi, At least it´s something. But I know for sure that dragstrip launches will kill it in seconds, regardless of the extras.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

No it was completely stock, no TA girdle or anything. It broke like it was made of matchsticks.

Guest

What failed? The ring gear?

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

I'm not sure yet. I won't know until this weekend probably.

gearheads78

Lets see built LS1, stickies and 6-speed -vs- stock rear. What did you think was going to happen? HAHA awsome car but you took 10bolt to a fight with a butter knife against a M1-tank.

This needs to be a lesson for the rest of you guys reading. Build a car that will handle the power you plan to make. I always spend my money on driveline , chassis and suspension first and then make power. A 300hp car you can still drive is much more fun than a broke 500HP car. I made the same mistake with my first build many years ago. A built 406 and a stock rear in a 78 Malibu = 1.5 passes down the strip and boom Never again for me.

Shift06

I think he knew it wasn't going to last. May as well run it till she breaks anyways, just hopefully it lasts long enough that you get some money saved back up.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Ya I knew it was gonna happen, just was hoping not till later this year. I wasn't pissed in fact I wa actually laughing when I got out of the car and off the track lol

gearheads78

I do love the car. I've always been a closet 3rd gen convertible enthusiest. Yours raises the bar.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Thanks. The 3 year goal is 12 bolt, AFR's, FAST intake/TB, roll bar/cage, and a big single front mount turbo.

Atilla the Fun

Why waste your $$ on AFR heads, when the TEA stage 1s have better exhaust flow, which is important with your "big single front mount turbo" and the TEAs are half the $ of AFR
Put the savings into rear-turbo. You get less total weight, since you don't need an intercooler, ( more $ saved) and better weight distribution.
Also, a big single turbo cannot perform as well as 2 smaller turbos. Even a T76 isn't big enough for your 6.0L, and the even-bigger turbos not only cost more than a pair of smaller twins, but also don't do well below about 13 psi. With modest twins, you could dial down to 8 psi, like for road trips.
I guess you realize you have the wrong cam for boost. Consider a TR224-114 to be the absolute maximum extreme upper limit for a turbo cam, overlap-wise. A TR220-112 is the same overlap, but a lower rpm range. I'd be watching the ls1tech classifieds for a deal on a TR220-114, myself.
And a 3.73:1 gear for the 12-bolt, considering the turbos, the TR220-114 cam, and the '98-'02 T56.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

I took a look in the differential today and everything *looks* good. There wasn't any chunks of anything sitting in the bottom of the pumpkin and the teeth on the gears looked to be good. So I'm sure it's a snapped axle and/or c-clip. Now my problem is I couldn't figure out how to get to the c-clips as I've never taken apart a rear end before.



I got this pin shaped bolt out of the center section, it went in horizontally right in the center between the ends of the axles. I'm assuming it's part of the mechanism holding the spider gears in which have to come out to get the c-clips out? I got kind of frustrated with it so I stopped working on it for the day, and was hoping someone could explain how to get these axles out

I actually took one of the carrier bearings off at first thinking it was the c-clip, my cousin came over and said I shouldn't have removed it because it keeps the whole carrier in place. I'm hoping it didn't shift just from me removing it for a minute.