five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Just before I had to put the car back on the jack stands to replace the rear end, the SES light came on and stayed on. I finally scanned it today and it says clutch switch error, which I assume is the clutch anticipate switch.

Many have said they didn't bother hooking up that switch, so I didn't either. The light didn't come on right away, which makes me wonder why it suddenly decided to complain. The car doesn't drive any differently, so I'm assuming the light is more an annoyance than a problem. I also assume it can be programmed out.

Should I do something? I was going to use the clutch anticipate switch location for a 2-step switch.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Put a relay in and feed both

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I thought about that. Didn't get as far as figuring out the circuit.

There are three connectors on the factory clutch switch. I never figured out what all of them do, either. But, I know they are all open when the clutch is depressed, which is the opposite of what I want for the 2-step, so the relay would have to be normally-energized, which typically isn't what you want. I suppose it would work, though.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Fit a N/O brake switch in there. The holes are often the same size

IIRC the 3 switches were for starter switch, PCM CPP switch and cruise CPP switch

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Do you mean normally open when the clutch is engaged, or normally open when the switch is sitting on the bench?

I put a brake light switch where the clutch switch went (it is smaller - had to "build up" the switch threads). Works fine for the 2-step, which goes to ground when the pedal is depressed. But, I don't see how that would work for the PCM input since that switch operates in the opposite fashion (opens when the pedal is depressed).

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

N/O is normal open and N/C the opposite. You want it to have 12v only when depressed, so open until depressed i.e. N/O

The two brake switches are different sizes. I know the one for the tail lights is a larger hole and sends the actual 12v to the tails when depressed, might be what you're looking for. The other brake switch is N/C for the TCC and cruise

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Okay, the clutch anticipate switch that came with the 4th gen pedals that came from the car the engine/trans came from is closed with the clutch engaged (pedal up). The plunger comes out when the pedal is depressed, and all circuits open. At least, that's the way it acted each time I checked it. In "conventional" terminology, that means it is normally open, since when by itself it pushes the plunger out via an internal spring, regardless of what state it is in when installed in "normal" operation, so it is "open" until acted upon.

The brake light switch, which has a smaller barrel/thread, is open when the brake pedal is up, closes when the pedal is depressed. Again, by convention, that would be a normally closed switch (even though in "normal" operation the brake is not depressed, and the circuit would be open). I modified the barrel so it would fit in the clutch position, so when the clutch is engaged (pedal all the way up), the switch is open, and the 2-step circuit is not grounded. When the pedal is depressed, the switch closes and the 2-step circuit is completed to ground.

Whew!

Okay, a relay would work for the clutch anticipate switch if I hooked it into my current set-up such that the relay magnet circuit would be grounded when the clutch is depressed, and a 12 volt signal was completed to the PCM - ASSUMING the clutch anticipate is a 12 volt signal, and not a ground signal (again, I haven't researched, so I'm taking your word here). HOWEVER, if the relay magnet circuit sends a 12 volt back-voltage to the 2-step, then the 2-step wouldn't work. Most likely, I'd need to use a relay for both the 2-step and the clutch anticipate circuit, with the switch on the pedal operating the relay magnet circuits.

The other choice is to use the 12 volt circuit for the 2-step (rather than the grounded circuit, which is easier to set up), and use the clutch switch to power a relay as well, which would send 12 volts to the clutch anticipate circuit when the clutch is depressed.

Oh, Saturday evening, when racing went on past sunset due to a rain delay, the SES light was overwhelming the tach visually. So, I put some electrical tape over the light.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Im officially confused

The CPP is expecting ground for the PCM
http://www.lt1swap.com/pictures/15_c..._switch_m6.gif

It looks to be grounded until depressed so its a N/C circuit

PCM brake switch
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport..._indicator.jpg

Also N/C. Hope you modded this to work because it fits the bill. Its the 2 wire switch with either pnk and ppl wires or gry and blk wires

Tail light switch
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...ithout_T61.jpg

N/O, not useful in this instance

Some 80's switches incorporate both the N/O and N/C functions into one switch with multiple outputs. I grabbed some from S10's for the racecar

The ECM/PCM brake switch and tail switches have different diameter shafts for some reason. Not sure whether the 2 step wants 12v or ground to engage, but setting the relay shouldnt be difficult. Set 30 to ground/IGN and 87 to the 2 step. 86 to IGN and 85 tee's into the CPP circuit

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The 2-step can use either 12v or ground. I chose ground because it's easier. It works great with the brake light switch mounted in the clutch position.

So, if the "CPP" (I assume this is the same as what's commonly called "clutch anticipate", Blue-32, correct?) is looking for ground when the pedal is up (clutch fully engaged), that would mean that it has a 5v source on one side from the PCM and the other side of the switch is grounded. That is consistent with the operation of my 4th gen clutch switch.

Remember, I'm using the convention assuming the switch is sitting on a bench, NOT how it is used. On the bench, the switch internal spring will extend the plunger - in that condition, the clutch switch is OPEN, and the brake switch is CLOSED. So, the clutch switch is NORMALLY OPEN and the brake switch is NORMALLY CLOSED. In use, though, the clutch switch would "normally" have the contacts closed and the brake switch would "normally" have the contacts open - but that isn't the convention when identifying switch types.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Having the battery disconnected for 2 weeks waiting for the shop to finish the exhaust made the light go away.