kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

sounds right- it shouldnt matter as long as the walls are clean and you're installing forged components. hope the block is ready soon im itching to see these pistons

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I decided I'm probably going with KB pistons....better than the Speed Pros and not too much more money. KB came out with the Icon forged pistons, which look pretty good.

If I ever get on the road and start actually delivering pipe to oil rigs, rather than just taking it from the railyard to the pipeyard, I'll make a crapload of money, and I'll spring for some Wiseco forged pistons.

We shall see.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Well I drained the oil out of the LT1.. that's a start.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I got her stripped naked today. Off to the engine shop soon I'm thinking of doing 4 bolt main caps--probably Milodon angled bolt ones--couldn't hurt to make it stronger, just to make sure.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I wouldnt bother splaying the mains

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Subscribing.

I am going to be doing an LT1 swap in my vert.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Got any updates?

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Only update is this:

I decided I'm building a 383 stroker out of the LT1 block. I'm taking it to the machine shop tomorrow for machining/clearancing and stuff.

Here's my short block plan:

KB or Wiseco forged pistons (approx. 11.2:1 CR)
Scat 6" Q-lite forged H-beam stroker rods
Scat 9000 series crank (I hear these are frickin' strong, for the price)

Anything can break, but a lot of guys I've spoken with are happy with Scat internals.

with my top end plans, it should easily make 450 HP or maybe more, even up here in Casper, which is nearly 6 grand above sea level.

I'll be happier with the 383....I know myself. A 350 won't quite cut it for me. I need a stump puller, to be anywhere near happy.

Thanks for subscribing, and best wishes with your swap.

-Tim

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Hey Jon. Yeah, I'll just do cap studs. That'll be plenty strong, for what I'm doing.

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

everything is looking good, good job. have you thought about keeping your cr around 9:1 and later on going with a turbo? its be easier when you need more power, just turn up the boost, with a 383 and turbo 600-700hp is easily achieved but then you will want to at least splay the mains

Falconiroc

Good work! This project is coming right along, I'm very excited to see the outcome!

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

thanks guys....yeah it's a project all right!

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I thought about it, but it's gonna be a year or more, AFTER it's built, before I turbo it, so I don't want to run around with 9 to 1 compression on my 383 for that long....not enough power.

JDud

That's pretty cool, I might have to copy that idea...nice and clean looking. How's it working out for you?

stoning_volcom

keep up the good work man, and it looks ato better then befor you should get some can clearcoat and clear coat the engine bay man make it more durable against dirt grease and grim, and make it look really good! just a suggestion. get the good clearcoat if you do it though keep up the good work man and keep us posted!!

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Any updates?

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Nothing new. Block is in the shop still. I started my own business and am working like crazy, especially since hours at work have dropped. I'll post whenever something happens.

quickkris2006

iTrader: (2)

anything? im getting my lt1 within the next week or so and ur thread has helped me out a bunch..

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Hey guys! My project has been sitting. Other priorities have been overwhelming me. However, I will start back up on it in Spring. My harness is done, and I just need to pay Pocket for it, to get it. My block is in the engine shop and all cleaned up and ready for the stroker assembly. I am probably just going to pay the man at the shop to assemble the darn thing. It's only going to cost $350 for him to completely assemble the engine, so that's not too bad, in my opinion. It will be a while before I do this.

Sorry I haven't posted in a while. Life is pretty crazy. I'll start posting again, as soon as I start back up on the project.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I have pieced together a rotating assembly for the 383 build. I'm going with KB forged pistons, Scat 6" forged rods, and probably a Scat 9000 series crank. I'm still deciding whether to go with a forged crank or not. The extra cost may be worth the piece of mind.

The whole deal is around a grand, with the 9000 crank, so that's not too bad.

I'm going to have pro built rebuild my 4L60e, to handle the new power, too.

First, I need to pay for my wiring harness (I wasn't as ambitious as Steven with the wiring stuff) and a few other things, then I'll get to the engine stuff.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

sounds good to me. glad to see some forward progress!

~Steven

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Thanks Steven. I hope all is well for you. Dang it I miss my Red Jewel IROC.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

OK, I've decided to go with a complete Manley rotating assembly for my 383 build. Jerry, my builder, gets great prices on Manley parts.

-Manley 6" H-beam "H-Lite" rods
-Manley Nitrided/Forged Steel crank (I can't resist the $500 price tag on this forged crank, from my engine builder)
-Mahle -5cc flat top power pak forged pistons.
-AI Billet camshaft--not sure of exact specs yet.

The crank weighs in at 49 pounds. It'll be a fairly light assembly, which is good, and it'll be plenty strong.

The whole assembly will run around $1600.00, which isn't bad for a completely forged assembly. Going this route will only set me back another $400 dollars, as opposed to piecing together everything and not getting a forged crank. It'll be worth the piece of mind.

The guys at AI told me I can run a pretty high compression ratio with their heads on a 383, even on pump fuel.

The pistons will yield a near 12:1 CR with the worked over GM heads I'm doing through Advanced Induction.

I'm going with Morel Hydraulic roller lifters, Manley Pro Flo valves, and an AI "street/strip" ported factory LT1 intake. The thing's gonna be a nice street beast. My combination of parts and tuning should give this resurrected LT1 right around 550 hp N/A at sea level I am guessing I will put 425 to the wheels up here in mile-high Casper, Wyoming.

This is why I also decided to go with long tube headers. It's gonna need to breathe and breathe well.

I'll post pics of my engine when it's done or near done. I hate waiting.

I'm also going to post videos of the first start up and some on the road videos, as well as pics, before and after tuning dyno charts, etc.

I've still got quite a road ahead of me, with this project...the only thing slowing me down is current lack of funds.

There she sits....waiting.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

So, I now have 8 LS1 coils in a box just waiting for fire. I'm getting the LT1/LTCC coil conversion kit here: http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/ite...050LTCC+eq++Tp+

8 LS1 coils (part number 12558948 X 8) for $125.00 from a guy on CamaroZ28.com


Now, I'm working on a little planning for the location of the LS1 coils.

I am going to use the brackets pictured below mounted to some brackets I will make that will be coming off the fuel rail bolt locations, so it will be sort of close to the picture below.



I'll eventually get some billet coil covers, too. That'll look way nice.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Here's my complete harness.

Pocket, a great guy from these forums, did mine for me. One thing I hate is wiring. Somehow, this harness looks much cleaner than a stock third gen harness.

Thanks Pocket!! You are THE MAN!

jokertwink

iTrader: (1)

Jon did really good job.. Hes going to work on mine too after I have time to take the 305 out of the camaro.. It might take me lil while since its too cold. I dont have shed or garage to work in which suck worst! Good luck on your swamp man.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Thanks Jokertwink. Yeah, I don't have a garage, either. It sucks.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I still want those wheels from your black IROC, Brisk.

Falconiroc

Coming along great! very excited to see your project continue to progress!

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Thanks. I am anxious to get started on it again and, of course, for it to be finished. I still have to send my intake and a set of the correct casting numbered GM LT1 heads to Advanced Induction.

Unfortunately, the castings that came on my 97 LT1 are the ONE casting AI cannot use to hog/race out. Darn it

I've been trying to sell my lightweight castings forever, but nobody wants them, not even for $225.00 shipped for BOTH assembled heads.

I can find a set of the heavier castings for around $200-$250, which would be better than paying AI their $600 core charge.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Looks like it coming along great!

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Looks like it coming along great! Good call on the ls1 coils

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Thanks buddy. I found out pretty quick that pretty much the only bad thing about the LT1 is the optispark, that and the fact that it's not an LS1. he he he

But when I am done with my project, I'll hope to put a lot of LS1's to shame

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Now I am going to address that hole in the firewall for the throttle cable. It's too big to hold the LT1 throttle cable assembly in there tightly. I'm going to mount a piece of sheet metal over it and drill the proper sized hole for the new throttle cable.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I've had a number of people, who are doing the same swap, ask me about my fuel line setup part numbers. Here you go:

PURECHOICE PART NUMBERS FOR EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO RUN FUEL LINES TO THE LT1, UP THE FIREWALL AND STRAIGHT TO THE BACK OF THE ENGINE. THIS WILL ALLOW YOU TO ELIMINATE RUNNING THE FUEL LINES HALF-WAY UP THE ENGINE BAY AND THEN BACK TO THE BACK OF THE ENGINE. EVERYTHING ON THE LIST BELOW IS IN THE BOX IN THE PICTURE

-LT1 Quick connect fittings-5800
-Large threaded flare nut for large flared stock hard line-5890 (you have to cut and flare the line)
-Small threaded flare nut for small flared stock hard line-5995 (you have to cut and flare the line)
-Male threaded fitting to connect to braided line and small flare nut-105-5
-Male threaded fitting to connect to braided line and large flare nut-105-6
-30" Braided fuel lines 310630 x 2
-Imperial Flaring Tool Kit-11275 (MADE IN THE U.S.A.)



I paid right around $150.00 for all the above parts

Purechoice order phone number (888) 505-8355

Purechoice website: http://www.performanceplumbing.com/ (no, I do not work for PureChoice he he he)

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

As I work on the engine and other stuff, here my Camaro sits. Feels like I have a long way to go still, probably because I DO have a long way to go.

I got a set of 374 LT1 heads for $200 shipped, and they're on their way to Advanced Induction right now

AI will tell me the optimal deck height for the block, after they inspect the heads and determine the cc's of the combustion chambers, etc. etc., so my builder will know this information when he puts together the short block.

I am gonna take a guess and say it'll be at -.010 to -.020

It's $250 for decking the block.

It's been below zero cold here in Wyoming these past few days.

December 31, 2010

itsMikey

does snow hurt the cars? or is it just the salt??

looks like u gotta nice build goin

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I haven't noticed any further damage caused by snow or water. I imagine if the body has some areas that have started rusting or if the t top seals allow water in past them, then rust can start. I always brush the snow off my car before it melts so minimal amounts of water will leak into the t tops, rear hatch area, etc. Standing snow doesn't seem to hurt anything. I am not sure how much road salt hurts the paint.but it's probably a good idea to clean it off promptly.

Thanks. The car should run quite well when I am finished.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Damn that's no good, but at least the engine is making progress!

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

It's just a little snow. Takes a few minutes to wipe it off the car. I do wish I had a garage, though, because it would be more pleasant to work on in cold weather. I will within the next few years

Yeah the engine will be nice when it's done. I've seen AI's dyno charts....nice smooth torque curves That's what I want...nice, smooth torque all the way up to redline.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Update:

I'll post pics of the machined and clearanced block soon, just for fun. Just gotta run to the shop and take some pics.

AI has my set of 374 heads, which cost me $200....not bad.

For their 200cc ported and polished heads package with upgraded valvetrain, 58mm BBK throttle body, gaskets, head bolts, 36# injectors, etc. etc., and street/strip ported intake, their quote was just over 3 grand.

I'm going with the LT1 58mm TB from CNC motorsports, which is $150.00 less than the BBK TB.

I'm not sure how good the TFS injectors are, but I imagine if they're good enough for AI, then they're good enough for me. I prefer RC injectors, but at $350 for a set of TFS injectors, I might just try them out.

I knew I wouldn't be happy with just swapping in the stock LT1. I just knew it.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Still waiting for the block to be done, so I can take pics and post them here.

Got my harness from Pocket a while back. It looks awesome. Pic is in post 175.

1bdbrd

iTrader: (1)

What are your plans for mounting those brackets to your valve covers? I looked at their website and I just don't think that they will be able to mount against the stock covers?

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I am making separate brackets and mounting them to the intake via the fuel rail bolt locations, then I am mounting the billet coil brackets to these brackets. The coils will be sitting right over that space between the valve covers and intake. I will make the brackets out of aluminum so I will be able to bend them to get the proper angle. It'll look nice and work well.

1bdbrd

iTrader: (1)

Ah that makes sense. I was hoping you knew something I didn't as I am trying to track down a similar option myself. I want to find the cheapest, easiest and most reliable way to put the ls1 coils over the top of the stock lt1 covers but the best I am coming up with is a bracket to mount ls2 coils. Everything else seems to be just shy of about the same price and requires much more work to install..

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

For me, I gotta spend a little money to make it look nice, since I don't have fancy tools to cut metal. I think my setup should look plenty clean and nice. The billet brackets are $200 but worth it, in my opinion.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I did a search for billet LS1 coil brackets and found the ones you see here (above) at nasty performance.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Hey Pocket. I assume the large plug on the left is for electronic cruise control option?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Top side of the wiper motor. Theres a small connector near by that goes in the bottom

The red/blue wire connector is for your washer tank

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Thanks Pocket. Ok so the red/blue wire connector is for a fluid level indicator in the tank? I just have a fluid line going to the 4th gen tank that sucks fluid into the wiper motor/washer assembly. I don't recall an electrical plug on the tank.

It's no biggy.