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Up under the dash there are 2 nuts that need to come off. They are JUST past where the column goes past the plastic of the dash, and very easy to see. Did you get those yet?

 

Two that hang it from the chassis, about halfway up and lots of wiring connectors

 

Here you go...theres one on each side of the column where arrow is. And yea, don't forget the wiring plugs too lol.

 

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sorta guide it in the hole and pull guide it and pull, should pull right out then. helps if your doors are off but if not get a buddy to help

 

Huh? Wiring, 3 firewall bolts, two nuts on the chassis, and removing the intermediate shaft... It comes right out.

Doors off to make it easier???

Oh wait...Blake did you take the intermediate shaft off of the column all together? It should be out. Then there is only like 4-5 inches of column on the outside side of the firewall.

J.

On the far left side of this pic, you can see the bottom of the column. Thats all that should be left after removing the intermediate shaft. Piece of cake from there...

 

I was thinking the same thing, but didn't want to sound stupid!

 

idk mine were already off. sorry if i sounded dumb. i could just reach inside the car and pull as well as jiggle it around because mine was a little sticky or something and need a little persuasion

 

Haha you didnt sound dumb dude. I wasnt sure if we were all on the same page or not because I read something about the doors being off. Just for future ref...the column comes out easy peazy with the doors and seats in.

Just gotta make sure its all disconnected and have that intermediate shaft removed completely.

Hardest part in my opinion is getting all the wiring and stuff back in exactly as it came out haha. I always get to that part, and say "I shoudl take a pic of how the wires are routed so I can route them again....nah Ill remember this time". And I always end up having to screw with it.

J.

 

yeah my car is pretty much stripped thats why i said it. we are all on the same page put yes once those 3 bolt are undone and the intermediate shaft removed it just slides clean out

 

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may i ask how you removed the shifter to steering column cable?

 

If I were you, I'd go ahead and replace the switch while you have it apart. Then you won't have to worry about it again.

 

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Technically you dont need it anymore, but if you run across a manual column itll have a lock suitable for a T56

 

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I cut my lock cable off with a pair of dykes. It's only used for an automatic transmission so if your going with a T56, it serves no purpose at all. I would def remove it or cut it at the column.

 

The purpose of the lock is to prevent you from taking the trans out of park unless the key is on for a measure of safety and security. The second purpose is when you have trouble while driving and must shut the engine off but need to retain steering to safely stop. It prevents the key from being turned to lock until the shifter returns to park. Manual cars have a tab or button doing the same thing. These do not affect being able to drive the car in the least, so you technically dont need a lock

 

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you could do some sort of dual post type deal and have the positive and negative break off seperateyl through a whole in thetrunk area beneath the car and cap them off so when your battery dies, you uncap them from under the trunk of the car and then jump it. are you going to shave the lock on the trunk too. because i thought those just open with a key and are hidden behind the liscense plate. so id keep it that way

 

Wait why couldnt you just use the key and open the hatch? The pull down is the only electric part. It still has a manual latch that will pop with the key. When you apply power, the pull down should move up into position ready to snag the hatch when you close it.

J.

(EDIT: Yeah what tyler said near the end...too early to finish reading a paragraph apparently haha )

 

yeah lol if the battery dies it just wont shut completely because the electric part doesnt work

 

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well i guess if your not using that part of the harness then cap it off and electrical tape it or something so it doesnt arc on anything if power is running to it

 

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Yellow goes to your dimmer switch. Without it, you get no headlights at all. Only firebirds had a headlight module to control the door motors

http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...headlights.jpg
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport..._exceptT61.jpg

Id suggest bookmarking the ATGO site and paying close attention to the misc exterior diagrams. The fuseblock/engine wiring you're changing. Lighting stays the same

http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=19

 

I'll have to double check mine, but if I remember right, I thought red was constant hot (direct to battery), Orange was key on power, yellow is headlight low beam power to dimmer switch, and green was for high beams, also to dimmer switch. But like I said, I'll double check if you'd like. And also keep those wiring diagrans that pocket posted in mind. I've used Austin 3rd gen A LOT to wire my car with those diagrams. They are very helpful.

 

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not running yet???

 

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Stop showing off the undercarriage. You're making me extremely jealous

 

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Such a tease

 

Looks great man. Nice work.

 

Made any progress on it lately Blake?

 

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I'm not 100% sure that way won't work, but if it was me, I would run a seperate ground for each. If there is anything you don't want to guess on, it's an electrical connection inside/next to a fuel tank. If there isn't a sufficient enough ground, it'll fry the wire and that means a very bad day for you and your car with fuel present.

Plus I think the fuel level sending unit might need a proper ground on it's own wire in order to relay accurate info to the gauge. Again, not 100% sure on that though.

 

Not sure what year thirdgen you have but my stock thirdgen wires were: PNK(Fuel Level), BRN(12v), and BLK(Ground).

My 4th gen fuel pump connector consisted of:

3A PPL Fuel gauge sensor signal
3B GRY Fuel pump motor feed
3C BLK Ground
3D GRY/BLK Reference voltage feed-5 volt reference
3E
3F BLK/WHT Fuel gauge sensor ground
3G ORN/BLK Manifold absolute pressure sensor return
3H DK GRY Fuel tank pressure sensor signal

 

There are 6 pins, 4 are reused

4th gen pigtail, 6 pin
Pin B is fuel pump 12v, splice this direct from the 3rd gen harness gry to gry

Pins C blk and D blk/wht are grds for the pump and sender respectively. Splice these to the 3rd gen grd wire blk

Pin A ppl is fuel level sender signal. Splice this to the last wire on the 3rd gen pigtail ppl to ppl

 

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If you're using a programmable fuel gauge, why did you change out the stock 240-33 ohm sending unit? I'm using a 4th gen LS1 plastic tank with the stock sending unit (and stock pump, btw), programmable gauge, it works fine with the 240-33 ohm sending unit.

 

Ditto..I never cracked my tank open. Tried to get a non-programmable to work. IN the end, I wish I just went with the programmable one from the start. Works great! Best part is, I can program in my "cushion" for needing gas. In other words, I program it so when the gauge is hard on E, I still have like 4 gallons left. Gets me to the gas station on more than fumes haha.

Glad to see you're still plugging away at it Blake! Fuel lines are looking great. Thats what I hope to do when/if I ever get to work on my car again. Black -an and stainless lines. Im jealous of that CA weather right now...even if i had time/money to work on my car it would be too cold haha.

J.

 

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