I should not be left unsupervised
#354
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Got it degreased and separated from everything. Put the ARP rod bolts in, torqued with 3 passes. That took forever
Tomorrow, cam swap, pin the crank, install new balancer assembly and begin fabbing the tensioner bracket so I can order the blower pulley
Tomorrow, cam swap, pin the crank, install new balancer assembly and begin fabbing the tensioner bracket so I can order the blower pulley
#355
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 6.0L LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Can't wait to see the end result. Let me know what brand tires you will be using so I can buy some stock in that company
#356
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Got the cam in but couldnt finish up the job. I misplaced my valve spring tool and the LS2 timing chain wont be in until monday. The impact that supposedly had 750lb/ft of torque couldnt budge the crank bolt so I broke out the cartoonishly oversized breaker bar and made short work of it (I love the giant tool lady at autofair). The Chrysler balancer puller tool from advance auto works awesome to remove the LS balancer if you do one thing. Take the longest push rod and slip a 1/4" drive 5/16" deepwell socket over the end and tape it on. Without it, the push rod is too short, the socket gives it just enough length to fit without risking the crank threads
This swap wasnt as trouble free as the last one. The lifter retainer rods didnt slide in at all, not even past the first lifter on either side. It must have something to do with core shift. Since it was on the engine stand I just flipped it over and let gravity hold the lifters up. Simple
Ill make another spring tool tomorrow if I cant find it
This swap wasnt as trouble free as the last one. The lifter retainer rods didnt slide in at all, not even past the first lifter on either side. It must have something to do with core shift. Since it was on the engine stand I just flipped it over and let gravity hold the lifters up. Simple
Ill make another spring tool tomorrow if I cant find it
#357
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Car: '89 GTA
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Re: I should not be left unsupervised
The Chrysler balancer puller tool from advance auto works awesome to remove the LS balancer if you do one thing. Take the longest push rod and slip a 1/4" drive 5/16" deepwell socket over the end and tape it on. Without it, the push rod is too short, the socket gives it just enough length to fit without risking the crank threads
#358
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Last of the internal parts showed up, LS2 timing chain and hardened PRs so I buttoned up the engine one last time and pinned the crank
Still no headers, must be on a slow boat from China
Anyways, this is whats meant by pinning the crank. Anyone who's ever had the balancer off should note there is no keyway and thus nothing to prevent the balancer from spinning on the snout when a high load is placed on the drive belt IE blower
Starting off
Install the balancer to be ran or aftermarket drive hub
Mark where the pins will be installed and install the drill guide like it was a crank bolt, sans all that torque. Drill to the target depth, remember to lube the bit with oil as you go. You dont want to burn one up halfway in
Remove the fixture and blow the shaving out with compressed air. Drive the pin in. It needs to go slightly below the surface
Install new bolt and torque to spec
Still no headers, must be on a slow boat from China
Anyways, this is whats meant by pinning the crank. Anyone who's ever had the balancer off should note there is no keyway and thus nothing to prevent the balancer from spinning on the snout when a high load is placed on the drive belt IE blower
Starting off
Install the balancer to be ran or aftermarket drive hub
Mark where the pins will be installed and install the drill guide like it was a crank bolt, sans all that torque. Drill to the target depth, remember to lube the bit with oil as you go. You dont want to burn one up halfway in
Remove the fixture and blow the shaving out with compressed air. Drive the pin in. It needs to go slightly below the surface
Install new bolt and torque to spec
#359
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Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: LQ9/L92
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Re: I should not be left unsupervised
thanks for the photos. I'd always heard about the process, but (since I'm not at the power levels yet) never looked into how it was done. Honestly looks a lot easier than I was expecting it to be.
#360
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Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Looks good. You may have mentioned it somewhere in the thread and I may have missed it, but what type of horse power levels are you shooting for?
#368
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Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
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Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
From looking at how far down the headers reach in comparison to the oil pan, it looks like those probably wouldn't work in a lowered car, but I hope you prove me wrong
#369
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Got the rest of the front accessories so I started playing in the garage again
The tensioner plate wasnt hard. 1/2" aluminum is expensive though. M8 and M10 threaded rods are impossible to find locally so I took common metric bolts, cut the heads off and welded common 3/8" 16 threaded rods to the ends and tweaked them till they were strait
Ran into an issue with the WP pulley. I designed the kit around the 98 WP which uses a bolt on pulley and is recessed quite a bit
Solution is yet another plate located in space with a fixed idler. Ugh
The tensioner plate wasnt hard. 1/2" aluminum is expensive though. M8 and M10 threaded rods are impossible to find locally so I took common metric bolts, cut the heads off and welded common 3/8" 16 threaded rods to the ends and tweaked them till they were strait
Ran into an issue with the WP pulley. I designed the kit around the 98 WP which uses a bolt on pulley and is recessed quite a bit
Solution is yet another plate located in space with a fixed idler. Ugh
#370
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Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
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Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Man you are crazy good with CAD.
#371
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Car: '89 GTA
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Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
If you need something bolts, nuts, washers etc. and don't mind waiting a couple days I can get what you need.
Why not use a '98 water pump? I've never heard anything bad about them.
And I guess now we understand why the Maggy kit is so expensive.
Why not use a '98 water pump? I've never heard anything bad about them.
And I guess now we understand why the Maggy kit is so expensive.
Last edited by White'89; 03-18-2011 at 11:43 PM.
#372
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Experience my friend
I may take you up on that. I was planning a decent order from McMaster soon. One thing I cant seem to find is spacer sleeves. I can find tubing in damn near any ID, its the thick walled stuff I cant locate. When I do it's plastic/nylon and Im not comfortable using that on the engine. Seeking .85"-1" OD with just enough ID to clear a M10 thread about 8" long
I would use a 98 WP if I had one or knew of one FS locally. Took me forever to find that one. Might trade with my 5.3, but Id have to crack the coolant system open again. Bleeding that sucks
Mine is taking forever because Im blazing my own trail here. Fab this, order that. It takes time, which Ive got plenty of. Im a cheapo too so the expensive part specifically designed to do job X isnt on my list. Ill fab something or try a different thing to see if it works, ie the 2010 headers. Also had to ditch the lokar dipstick plan in favor of a cut and welded truck tube. Welding a tube that thin was alot of fun. I actually ripped it in two cleaning the slag out with a drill turning the chuck by hand
Originally Posted by White'89
If you need something bolts, nuts, washers etc. and don't mind waiting a couple days I can get what you need.
Why not use a '98 water pump? I've never heard anything bad about them.
And I guess now we understand why the Maggy kit is so expensive.
Why not use a '98 water pump? I've never heard anything bad about them.
And I guess now we understand why the Maggy kit is so expensive.
I would use a 98 WP if I had one or knew of one FS locally. Took me forever to find that one. Might trade with my 5.3, but Id have to crack the coolant system open again. Bleeding that sucks
Mine is taking forever because Im blazing my own trail here. Fab this, order that. It takes time, which Ive got plenty of. Im a cheapo too so the expensive part specifically designed to do job X isnt on my list. Ill fab something or try a different thing to see if it works, ie the 2010 headers. Also had to ditch the lokar dipstick plan in favor of a cut and welded truck tube. Welding a tube that thin was alot of fun. I actually ripped it in two cleaning the slag out with a drill turning the chuck by hand
#373
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Re: I should not be left unsupervised
I'll do some digging on Monday.
Last edited by White'89; 03-19-2011 at 05:57 PM.
#375
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Its about 1/4" farther forward than this
Fan will be moved to the front as a pusher for more clearance. Tight spot will be up top near the main bracket because the rad slopes back. Intercooler pushes it even father back
I made a mock-up of the new idler plate and built some more conversion metric to STD threaded rods. Had to add a second idler because the only mount point on the bottom was exactly in the path of the belt. Luckily theres enough clearance from the waterneck assuming I can find a 10 rib pulley in this OD
Ill cut it out of the 1/2" alum tomorrow after the guy comes to pick up the 5.3. Then comes the fun job of aligning everything perfectly. If the plates go any degree away from parallel from the block face the belt will get shredded
Fan will be moved to the front as a pusher for more clearance. Tight spot will be up top near the main bracket because the rad slopes back. Intercooler pushes it even father back
I made a mock-up of the new idler plate and built some more conversion metric to STD threaded rods. Had to add a second idler because the only mount point on the bottom was exactly in the path of the belt. Luckily theres enough clearance from the waterneck assuming I can find a 10 rib pulley in this OD
Ill cut it out of the 1/2" alum tomorrow after the guy comes to pick up the 5.3. Then comes the fun job of aligning everything perfectly. If the plates go any degree away from parallel from the block face the belt will get shredded
#377
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Re: I should be left unsupervised
any updates?
Are you ditching power steering?
Are you ditching power steering?
Last edited by ericjon262; 03-24-2011 at 10:57 PM.
#378
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Been slammed with wiring, no time to work on this engine
Last plate is cut from alum and the SC pulley finally arrived nearly a month after I ordered it. Broke my puller tool trying to get the fugger off, man it's on there tight. Trying to find a SVT authorized dealer thats reasonable to yank it off for me
Im running PS, just in that pic I was measuring belt clearance and didnt feel like pressing the PS pulley back on so I left it off and clamped the excess slack in the vice grips
Last plate is cut from alum and the SC pulley finally arrived nearly a month after I ordered it. Broke my puller tool trying to get the fugger off, man it's on there tight. Trying to find a SVT authorized dealer thats reasonable to yank it off for me
Im running PS, just in that pic I was measuring belt clearance and didnt feel like pressing the PS pulley back on so I left it off and clamped the excess slack in the vice grips
#379
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Decided today was for me alone so I finished up the brackets. As soft as alum is, it sure takes a long time to cut. Saw-zall kept gumming up. I "polished" it up with some 120 grit sand paper. Gives it an almost brushed look. Huge step up from the greasy scarred up mess I started with
First up is some humor, my fab-a-tool failure. The M122 pulley is REALLY on there and I broke the tool I made for the M90's. This was my solution. Center section is part of a spare donut tire which fit the rear of the pulley perfectly. Front is some 1/4" plate welded together to make a crude crows foot. Fixed bolts are 1/2 decking carriage bolts with an old 1/2" head stud from some wierd car in the middle. If you look closely you can see the plate flexing quite a bit. I gave up and took it to a dealership. They got it but seemed to have had just as much trouble with it because the old pulley was trashed. No matter, it was scrap anyways. New hub style 2.6 pulley ring installed. Now if I want to change pulleys, it takes a whole 5 mins
Moving on, here is the finalized lower bracket made from 1/2" aluminum. It holds the idler to keep the belt from contacting the waterpump bell. The three studs are some of my home made metric to STD conversion and uses steel sleeves to compress to. Theres the largest idler pulley I could find in the JY on the back. A 10rib belt is 1.375" wide and this thing is 1.60". Fords to the rescue again
Main bracket holding the tensioner attached in the same manner. The maggy tensioner has one HECK of a stout spring. Even with a breaker bar its still quite a pull. The studs will have to be cut down to clear the radiator
Viewed from the rear. Tensioner pulley interference isnt as bad as I'd predicted. I can get a wrench on both. The blue tape is holding the blower gasket in the right spot until I finalize it with copious amounts of black RTV
I like this view. Seems more complicated than it really is
Now Im onto the fun fun job of sanding down the flaking powdercoat on the intake. Takes for-ever to get to all the little cracks and crevices it's got. All the silicone couplers are in, going black this time. Need to order the fuel system, get some motor mounts and figure out the header situation. Almost ready to go
First up is some humor, my fab-a-tool failure. The M122 pulley is REALLY on there and I broke the tool I made for the M90's. This was my solution. Center section is part of a spare donut tire which fit the rear of the pulley perfectly. Front is some 1/4" plate welded together to make a crude crows foot. Fixed bolts are 1/2 decking carriage bolts with an old 1/2" head stud from some wierd car in the middle. If you look closely you can see the plate flexing quite a bit. I gave up and took it to a dealership. They got it but seemed to have had just as much trouble with it because the old pulley was trashed. No matter, it was scrap anyways. New hub style 2.6 pulley ring installed. Now if I want to change pulleys, it takes a whole 5 mins
Moving on, here is the finalized lower bracket made from 1/2" aluminum. It holds the idler to keep the belt from contacting the waterpump bell. The three studs are some of my home made metric to STD conversion and uses steel sleeves to compress to. Theres the largest idler pulley I could find in the JY on the back. A 10rib belt is 1.375" wide and this thing is 1.60". Fords to the rescue again
Main bracket holding the tensioner attached in the same manner. The maggy tensioner has one HECK of a stout spring. Even with a breaker bar its still quite a pull. The studs will have to be cut down to clear the radiator
Viewed from the rear. Tensioner pulley interference isnt as bad as I'd predicted. I can get a wrench on both. The blue tape is holding the blower gasket in the right spot until I finalize it with copious amounts of black RTV
I like this view. Seems more complicated than it really is
Now Im onto the fun fun job of sanding down the flaking powdercoat on the intake. Takes for-ever to get to all the little cracks and crevices it's got. All the silicone couplers are in, going black this time. Need to order the fuel system, get some motor mounts and figure out the header situation. Almost ready to go
#381
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Re: I should be left unsupervised
this is the only thread I watch on thirdgen anymore, just thought you'd like to know!
#382
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Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Lmao. The tool you made looks like complete overkill, I can't believe it didn't work.
#383
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Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Too bad that main bracket is so big and ugly. Really hides all your work and ingenuity. Still waiting for header results as I expect most of us are.....Keep it up Pocket!!!!
#385
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
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Re: I should not be left unsupervised
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/DSC02260.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/DSC02264.jpg
]http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/Pocket_004/LS1%20M122%20project/DSC02265.jpg[/IMG]
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/DSC02269.jpg
<SNIP>
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/DSC02264.jpg
]http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/Pocket_004/LS1%20M122%20project/DSC02265.jpg[/IMG]
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/DSC02269.jpg
<SNIP>
any plans in the future to "beautify" those big plates with some strategically placed cutouts and polishing?
#387
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Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
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Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
The only thing I'd do to the bracket is engrave something on it like "Genius by Jon" or something witty like that
#388
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Re: I should not be left unsupervised
you need emblems that say "2.0 L supercharge" (122 cubic inches is 1.99 Liters)
#390
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
The big green rubber band came in
Kinda wierd the HD belts come in John Deere green. Im used to a common tensioner tight where you can still press on the belt with your fingers. This one is banjo string tight, I can pluck it and get a twang. Hope my crank snout doesnt mind too much. Following the SC rule Ill have to keep a spare belt in the trunk with tools to replace it. I think Ill stick a cheapo 6 rib belt in there instead of one of these. They're just supposed to get me from the failure point to the shop and I think a 6 rib will be more than plenty for that
Believe it or not there's actually a 6.0L under there somewhere
Fabbed the inlet too. 4" is massive, but the Shelby guys really see big gains around 5"
Kinda wierd the HD belts come in John Deere green. Im used to a common tensioner tight where you can still press on the belt with your fingers. This one is banjo string tight, I can pluck it and get a twang. Hope my crank snout doesnt mind too much. Following the SC rule Ill have to keep a spare belt in the trunk with tools to replace it. I think Ill stick a cheapo 6 rib belt in there instead of one of these. They're just supposed to get me from the failure point to the shop and I think a 6 rib will be more than plenty for that
Believe it or not there's actually a 6.0L under there somewhere
Fabbed the inlet too. 4" is massive, but the Shelby guys really see big gains around 5"
#391
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#393
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Yes
Here it is with the M90's 4" inlet under the stock formula hood, it actually fully closed like this. With the RAII hood Ive got tons of space. The only place that's ever been tight was up front for the SC pulley. I was planning to trim the bracing under the power bulge hood for more clearance for peace of mind, but the RAII hood has so much space its a moot point
Here it is with the M90's 4" inlet under the stock formula hood, it actually fully closed like this. With the RAII hood Ive got tons of space. The only place that's ever been tight was up front for the SC pulley. I was planning to trim the bracing under the power bulge hood for more clearance for peace of mind, but the RAII hood has so much space its a moot point
#394
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Car: 1991 z28
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Re: I should not be left unsupervised
i got my baby via craigslist however i was unlucky and bought it from a wannabe mechanic who half-assed and rigged everything to the max...ie. one lug in the back consisted of .stud(a lag bolt with a washer and lockwasher and nut WTF IS THAT CRAP haha o2 sensors=spliced in (omg) im slowly doing things right but its costin me a lot of money and im still lost with some of the electronics on it ie. vss(speedo doesnt work) ugh but it will be well worth it when i get it all back to normal then its time for performance mods!!
#395
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Re: I should not be left unsupervised
now you just need to make a box so it'll suck from the "power bulge" (please don't get a RAII)
#396
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Re: I should not be left unsupervised
glad to see this is still in the works Jon. I'll have to get online more often to check back on it
hope y'all are getting nice driving weather like we are down here
~Steven
hope y'all are getting nice driving weather like we are down here
~Steven
#397
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
This pisses me off. This was supposed to be plan B if the 2010's cant be made to fit. Was supposed to be 1.75" headers with 3" collectors. These are 1.695" (1.625"?) with 3" collectors. Wonderful restriction
Hawks apparently has a deal with the same chinese company that made the 2010 headers for peanuts. They neglect to tell you that and charge you the SSW price but leave off the name plate and replace it with some pretty polish
This is supposed to be SSW quality? Hell the 2010's look better
Same cast flange, minus the pretty welds. Lovely slag in there along with a 4th grader clean up grind
External welds look nice as ever but come on. Hopefully I can pull a rabbit out of a hat to make the 2010's work. Then I can send these pieces of crap back
Back on to the project. Here you can see the A-arm interference area and how much lower the 2010 headers hang
Collection is getting bigger. Need to bring out my 2" SBC headers
Garage is cleaned out. Ready to fit the car in for a serious cleaning before autofair then it'll be time to tear it down. Last things Im waiting on are the fuel system and mufflers. It'll get interesting next week
Hawks apparently has a deal with the same chinese company that made the 2010 headers for peanuts. They neglect to tell you that and charge you the SSW price but leave off the name plate and replace it with some pretty polish
This is supposed to be SSW quality? Hell the 2010's look better
Same cast flange, minus the pretty welds. Lovely slag in there along with a 4th grader clean up grind
External welds look nice as ever but come on. Hopefully I can pull a rabbit out of a hat to make the 2010's work. Then I can send these pieces of crap back
Back on to the project. Here you can see the A-arm interference area and how much lower the 2010 headers hang
Collection is getting bigger. Need to bring out my 2" SBC headers
Garage is cleaned out. Ready to fit the car in for a serious cleaning before autofair then it'll be time to tear it down. Last things Im waiting on are the fuel system and mufflers. It'll get interesting next week
#399
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
SSW...is that Stainless Steel Welds?
You sure do have a project on your hands, Pocket. I just bought a T56 tranny from a guy with flywheel, shifter, pedals, etc. for $750 shipped. That's not too bad.
Best wishes with your project!
You sure do have a project on your hands, Pocket. I just bought a T56 tranny from a guy with flywheel, shifter, pedals, etc. for $750 shipped. That's not too bad.
Best wishes with your project!