I should not be left unsupervised
#51
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Re: I should not be left unsupervised
I wonder how much you could sell m90 kits for?
#52
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Id have to make a few before I could set a price, plus Id have to show it gives worthwhile benefits or people wont even consider a kit
The flanges would have to be farmed out somewhere. No way Id cut more than one by hand, ugh
The flanges would have to be farmed out somewhere. No way Id cut more than one by hand, ugh
#54
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
yeah i bought my 3rd gen while my girlfriend was out of town, and i already have a unfinished bike projects and my bass boat restoration is half finished as well. havent touched either of then since i got the camaro either
#55
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Car: 86 TA, 91 B4C
Engine: 5.3, 4.8
Transmission: 4L80 4000, T56
Axle/Gears: 4.30 M12, 23.42 10 bolt
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Looks like you are getting somewhere pretty quick just playing around, good job man.
#56
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Painted the collector hat, fabricated a nose brace and put it all back together. Not sure I can use this tensioner based on the direction it turns. We'll see, I definitely need to swap the ribbed idler for a smooth one. Time to actually buy stuff, starting with a new longer belt. So far this project hasnt cost me a dime
Had to clearance it a bit. More will need to be ground away to slide the tray farther up
Still great clearance
One of the handy cyl head bolt holes. This used to hold the dipstick, now itll hold the rear brace
I was too focused on case clearance and totally forgot about the hardware. The unit needs to move up over the valve cover about 3/8" now
Had to clearance it a bit. More will need to be ground away to slide the tray farther up
Still great clearance
One of the handy cyl head bolt holes. This used to hold the dipstick, now itll hold the rear brace
I was too focused on case clearance and totally forgot about the hardware. The unit needs to move up over the valve cover about 3/8" now
#58
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Hit a snag
Moved the tray upwards 3/8" to clear the strut tower better and now the blower contacts the hood. I need to get it down about 1/2". Im not against trimming the hood structure some, but Im saving it for last resort. There will be an extra hood snubber near the blower snout to keep wind from compressing the hood onto the pulley
My billet rails came in looking all pretty. Problem is they are for a LS2, so the mounting pattern is wrong. I need to find some LS1 adapters, the down side is all the companies Ive found are converting LS1 to LS2, not the other way around
Moved the tray upwards 3/8" to clear the strut tower better and now the blower contacts the hood. I need to get it down about 1/2". Im not against trimming the hood structure some, but Im saving it for last resort. There will be an extra hood snubber near the blower snout to keep wind from compressing the hood onto the pulley
My billet rails came in looking all pretty. Problem is they are for a LS2, so the mounting pattern is wrong. I need to find some LS1 adapters, the down side is all the companies Ive found are converting LS1 to LS2, not the other way around
#60
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#61
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Car: 86 TA, 91 B4C
Engine: 5.3, 4.8
Transmission: 4L80 4000, T56
Axle/Gears: 4.30 M12, 23.42 10 bolt
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
I would be all about notching the strut tower, i bet it wouldnt hurt a thing.
#62
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Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
Engine: Cammed 6.0L LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
This is too cool! Maybe I missed it, but are the passenger side coils going to be mounted elsewhere?
#65
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Moving right along
Got a deal on some fuel rails. I really hated the bent stock LS1 rail. FYI for others, LS1/6's use a different mount pattern than LS2's. Kits are available to convert LS1 rails to fit LS2 intakes, but none exist to do the reverse. Guess which I got
Testing them out by priming the system I found several big leaks at the top of the injectors. Noone's ever had a leak up top on LS1tech, or atleast never posted about it if they did. Best guess is the O-rings flattened out from the years inside the LS1 rails. We'll see if new O-rings fix it, otherwise its back to the ugly stocker and these on the auction block
An hour later, I made the brackets from some alum angle stock from Lowe's
Fitting with the recut wood mockup. White stuff on the pulley is shaving cream checking hood clearance. 1/4" is as much as i can get, the hood support will need a trim and a snubber installed to keep the hood from ever touching the belt
It is literally ON the valve cover. It cant go any lower without grinding stuff off
Collector is getting tight, but still clears, thank god
Steel bracket recut
Rear support fabricated. With this the assembly becomes extremely rigid
Reassembled, looks promising
Rear brace clears everything just barely
Pretty close to how it'll look when finished. Originally I intended for the intake tube to go over to the pass side near the blower fan, but now I think Ill cross the intake and draw air from the power bulge opening. It wouldnt be too hard to build a tray to keep the filter isolated from the underhood heat so it only draws from the opening
Got a deal on some fuel rails. I really hated the bent stock LS1 rail. FYI for others, LS1/6's use a different mount pattern than LS2's. Kits are available to convert LS1 rails to fit LS2 intakes, but none exist to do the reverse. Guess which I got
Testing them out by priming the system I found several big leaks at the top of the injectors. Noone's ever had a leak up top on LS1tech, or atleast never posted about it if they did. Best guess is the O-rings flattened out from the years inside the LS1 rails. We'll see if new O-rings fix it, otherwise its back to the ugly stocker and these on the auction block
An hour later, I made the brackets from some alum angle stock from Lowe's
Fitting with the recut wood mockup. White stuff on the pulley is shaving cream checking hood clearance. 1/4" is as much as i can get, the hood support will need a trim and a snubber installed to keep the hood from ever touching the belt
It is literally ON the valve cover. It cant go any lower without grinding stuff off
Collector is getting tight, but still clears, thank god
Steel bracket recut
Rear support fabricated. With this the assembly becomes extremely rigid
Reassembled, looks promising
Rear brace clears everything just barely
Pretty close to how it'll look when finished. Originally I intended for the intake tube to go over to the pass side near the blower fan, but now I think Ill cross the intake and draw air from the power bulge opening. It wouldnt be too hard to build a tray to keep the filter isolated from the underhood heat so it only draws from the opening
#66
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Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LSX (swapping)
Transmission: 4L60E (swapping)
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi 10 Bolt
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
I love how sophisticated you are Jon, wood, angle iron, vice grips and shaving cream!
#67
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Car: 86 TA, 91 B4C
Engine: 5.3, 4.8
Transmission: 4L80 4000, T56
Axle/Gears: 4.30 M12, 23.42 10 bolt
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
How much boost is that thing capable of anyway?
#68
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
I love how sophisticated you are Jon, wood, angle iron, vice grips and shaving cream!
How much boost is that thing capable of anyway?
Those kits made 5-7psi on stock 4.8/5.3 truck engines and bumped output to 330-350hp
Well worth a week of playing with scraps
#69
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Car: 86 TA, 91 B4C
Engine: 5.3, 4.8
Transmission: 4L80 4000, T56
Axle/Gears: 4.30 M12, 23.42 10 bolt
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
That is about perfect for a stock engine, it would last forever with that much.
#71
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Been knee deep building harnesses. No real time to put in the project. I took a breather today and got some stuff done
Built the relo-brackets for the coils and an extension harness
Got a rough flange for the inlet cut. Now to cut the oval and weld up an intake. It doesnt look like 4" tubing will fit under the hood. Think Ill just go 3"
Built the relo-brackets for the coils and an extension harness
Got a rough flange for the inlet cut. Now to cut the oval and weld up an intake. It doesnt look like 4" tubing will fit under the hood. Think Ill just go 3"
#73
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Cut the inlet flange and formed the transition from 4" round to the wierd 1 1/2" oval. Also modified the stock truck dipstick to fit in Fbody manifolds and mount to the blower tray. Had to snip the end and scrawl new add/range zones because the truck pan is quite a bit deeper than the Fbody pan. Hopefully I wont forget when I check the oil in the future. I removed the MAF/filter from the original 4" CAI and gave it a shot. Darn if it doesnt fit like it was made for the spot. Even fills up the power bulge opening. Welder ran out of wire so I cant fab the new mount for the tensioner yet and the PS tool I bought doesnt fit LSx PS pumps for some reason. Boo
My issue with the new fuel rails leaking were from the mounting being an incorrect angle. A slight bend on the adapters and it seals up fine
Time to order some new couplers for the remaining part of the intake thats missing
My issue with the new fuel rails leaking were from the mounting being an incorrect angle. A slight bend on the adapters and it seals up fine
Time to order some new couplers for the remaining part of the intake thats missing
#74
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
New spool of wire today fabbing the tensioner bracket. For something this simple it took about 12 revisions before I was happy with it
This is fully relaxed and just over 1/4" clearance between the belts. Im digging the belt wrap. Mounts to the main blower bracket and both of the old mounts from the WP. It actually stiffened up the already rigid blower. Idler is from the 5.3 accessory bracket near the alt. I would have rather had one with side ridges to keep the belt centered but this is the only pulley I had (of about 8 in the bucket) that fit the tensioner. Hopefully the blower pulley being so close will keep the belt in line
The second PS pulley install tool I got from the parts store ALSO doesnt fit. I tested it on the cars its listed to fit and STILL doesnt thread into the pulley shaft. Maybe Im dense or something but this pisses me off
This is fully relaxed and just over 1/4" clearance between the belts. Im digging the belt wrap. Mounts to the main blower bracket and both of the old mounts from the WP. It actually stiffened up the already rigid blower. Idler is from the 5.3 accessory bracket near the alt. I would have rather had one with side ridges to keep the belt centered but this is the only pulley I had (of about 8 in the bucket) that fit the tensioner. Hopefully the blower pulley being so close will keep the belt in line
The second PS pulley install tool I got from the parts store ALSO doesnt fit. I tested it on the cars its listed to fit and STILL doesnt thread into the pulley shaft. Maybe Im dense or something but this pisses me off
#75
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Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
Engine: Cammed 6.0L LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
That's looking really good. Do you know what size intercooler you're going to be running?
#78
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Car: 2008 Silverado, 73 LeMans, 1987 GTA
Engine: 4.8, 350 Pontiac, 350 LT1
Transmission: 4L65E, TH350, T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 2.73, 3.42
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
i dont forsee the belt comin off the tensioner. looks good tho!
#81
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Car: 86 TA, 91 B4C
Engine: 5.3, 4.8
Transmission: 4L80 4000, T56
Axle/Gears: 4.30 M12, 23.42 10 bolt
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
LOL, probably will not be like that when the charge pipe has been connected to the inlet of the TB. Petty funny sound though.
#84
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...t=MOV01905.mp4
Try that
Link to the album if that doesnt work
http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...M90%20Project/
Try that
Link to the album if that doesnt work
http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...M90%20Project/
#85
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Can you say, "blower whine"?
Wow.
You're sure that wasn't the power steering pump, right?
Wow.
You're sure that wasn't the power steering pump, right?
#86
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Love all the details, this is better than I thought it would be. Your an absolute imaginative genuis. Love the vid that thing is loud, but totally cool.
#87
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Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: fourth gen 3.42
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
wow- great work jon. That thing should be a blast to drive... and to think this thread started out as a joke
#88
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
I think it is always the unplanned experiments that seem to get the most responses. That and this guy is a genius and very talented. He kinda has ya wondering what he will do next. Love to see the looks on peoples faces when he is driving a third gen nobody pays attention trying to figure out the whine under the hood after he does get their attention. Then boom he blowes their doors off.
#91
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
This intake coupler company was even slower than the first one when I did the original swap. Next time I build a boosted setup Ill order the couplers first and maybe then they'll be arriving somewhere near the completion date
Anyways, heres how she'll look when I drop her off for a tune. Only change is the injectors will be red (36lbs)
Ill be putting a tubular K member, AN/SS trans lines and poly motor mounts in it this weekend. Hopefully Ill be nearly out of little bugs to squash, but more likely the blower is opening up a whole new can of issues
It never ends, but I do love it so
Anyways, heres how she'll look when I drop her off for a tune. Only change is the injectors will be red (36lbs)
Ill be putting a tubular K member, AN/SS trans lines and poly motor mounts in it this weekend. Hopefully Ill be nearly out of little bugs to squash, but more likely the blower is opening up a whole new can of issues
It never ends, but I do love it so
#92
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Re: I should not be left unsupervised
The thread title should be changed to " I should be left unsupervised", we need more threads like this on here!
#94
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Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
Engine: Cammed 6.0L LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
I finally got to watch the video on my computer (Apple restricts me from having flash player on my phone ). That is so AWESOME Jon
I'm not as educated in superchargers as most, but how do you control how much boost it's putting out? Or is there not a way to do that with the way you're using it?
My sister's got a 2003 GTP...I told her that if by any chance she "accidentally" wrecks the car, I'm yanking the charger off before the insurance takes it
I'm not as educated in superchargers as most, but how do you control how much boost it's putting out? Or is there not a way to do that with the way you're using it?
My sister's got a 2003 GTP...I told her that if by any chance she "accidentally" wrecks the car, I'm yanking the charger off before the insurance takes it
#95
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Yes, the rails are leak free now. My angle brackets just werent angled enough. A light bend and all was well
Boost is controlled by the drive ratio. Crank diameter vs SC pulley diameter. Crank RPMs vs blower RPMs and keeping the redline within the specs of the engine. Quite simply, go smaller SC pulley for more boost but lower engine revs, bigger SC pulley for less boost, but more engine RPMs
There is a BOV installed as well to keep the compressor from surging and to keep the intake couplers from blowing off. They are not common on SC setups, those prefer the bypass valve. Bypass valves operate very similar to a BOV, but they recirculate the wasted charge to the pre-blower intake tract to be re-pressurized. I opted the BOV to vent it to the atmo to keep the hot air from being recycled. If it gets annoying Ill hook a hose to the vent and plumb it to the intake tract so itll be a bypass
This is a T-bird unit, GM blowers have a vastly different case design, but the newer ones have teflon coated rotors for a big jump in efficiency. Definately not something to sneeze at
Boost is controlled by the drive ratio. Crank diameter vs SC pulley diameter. Crank RPMs vs blower RPMs and keeping the redline within the specs of the engine. Quite simply, go smaller SC pulley for more boost but lower engine revs, bigger SC pulley for less boost, but more engine RPMs
There is a BOV installed as well to keep the compressor from surging and to keep the intake couplers from blowing off. They are not common on SC setups, those prefer the bypass valve. Bypass valves operate very similar to a BOV, but they recirculate the wasted charge to the pre-blower intake tract to be re-pressurized. I opted the BOV to vent it to the atmo to keep the hot air from being recycled. If it gets annoying Ill hook a hose to the vent and plumb it to the intake tract so itll be a bypass
This is a T-bird unit, GM blowers have a vastly different case design, but the newer ones have teflon coated rotors for a big jump in efficiency. Definately not something to sneeze at
#96
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Car: 91 rs
Engine: Blow through 383, 10 psi, xr288hr
Transmission: Manual th350 ATI 3000
Axle/Gears: 3.50 9"
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
The hp isn't going to be impressive, but I'm wondering what the torque improvement will be like. Should be a lot, right off idle. Great for a street car.
I was thinking about one on a 4.3 s10.
So the M90 lobes cannot get "wet" at all?
I was thinking about one on a 4.3 s10.
So the M90 lobes cannot get "wet" at all?
#97
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
How are you tuning this? Is it tuned yet? Do you have a wideband or dyno nearby?
Isn't output in the 300hp range pretty normal for non blown LM7's? What kind of HP do you think this could net? 375? 400?
I am very curious to know what the result in RWHP or even MPH in a 1/4 mile and vehicle weight.
I love your "can do" attitude and willingness to jump right in until you get what you want.
For what it is worth I have seen SC T-birds and even built SC Lightnings with fuel and nitrous sprayed through the blower.
Keep up the awesome work.
Isn't output in the 300hp range pretty normal for non blown LM7's? What kind of HP do you think this could net? 375? 400?
I am very curious to know what the result in RWHP or even MPH in a 1/4 mile and vehicle weight.
I love your "can do" attitude and willingness to jump right in until you get what you want.
For what it is worth I have seen SC T-birds and even built SC Lightnings with fuel and nitrous sprayed through the blower.
Keep up the awesome work.
#99
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
Magnuson put a M90 kit on 4.8/5.3 trucks for a while. Those netted 330-350rwhp totally stock. Hopefully this breaks 300
Im shopping around for a tuner. Ive got my eye on one so far, waiting for a response
Ive read several opinions from running gasoline through the case. Most say it'll destroy it. I know for the newer Eaton's, gasoline will eat the teflon off the rotors. The tbird unit is an older non coated unit
Tim, thought you were going LT1? Or are you doing the LSx PCM control on the LT1?
Im shopping around for a tuner. Ive got my eye on one so far, waiting for a response
Ive read several opinions from running gasoline through the case. Most say it'll destroy it. I know for the newer Eaton's, gasoline will eat the teflon off the rotors. The tbird unit is an older non coated unit
Tim, thought you were going LT1? Or are you doing the LSx PCM control on the LT1?
#100
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Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
Engine: Cammed 6.0L LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
Re: I should not be left unsupervised
It's too bad you live so far away. My tuner is amazing and only charges $250 for a full, wide-band tune, WOT, driveability, the works. He'll even give you a dyno tune for like $40 more.
I mean, if you ever wanted to drive the car out this way he could hook you up, besides I'd like to see the car in person anyways.
Hey just an off-topic question here. What did all the lines and fittings and rails cost you for that fuel rail setup? It looks really good and I've thought about doing something similar.
I mean, if you ever wanted to drive the car out this way he could hook you up, besides I'd like to see the car in person anyways.
Hey just an off-topic question here. What did all the lines and fittings and rails cost you for that fuel rail setup? It looks really good and I've thought about doing something similar.