techrunner

just wanted to post this up now that i have it confirmed to work. my car was a t5 car to start. i used the thirdgen original pedals, and the stock 4th gen clutch master cylinder. the only modification i did to the master was to drill out the plastic bushing in the rod end. after removing that entirely, i installed the master. the hole in the rod end will now fit the old 3rd gen plastic bushing just like the original master cylinder. cant say it'll work for every car, but on my 91 it was a direct fit. the pedal switches are all good, and the cylinder has full travel with no other modifications whatsoever. just wanted this info out there cause there are a lot of people who have had issues with pedal setups. if i get a minute later on i will try to get pics of the finished setup.

jimmy92rs

iTrader: (3)

subscribed, post some pic when u can. thanks

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You're probably only talking about modifications to mount it, but the "drill mod" is a good idea on a 4th gen f-body clutch MC.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

and I'm going to assume this is for an LT1 style hydralics, and not the ls1 style

I make this assumption, because thats the way my lt1 swap cars were done (almost 10 yrs ago)

rybread11

Yeah I'd like to see pics too. For my "someday" t56 swap.

suscribing

cleanwater7

What is the drill mod?

The only way to really match the third gen pedals with the forth gen hydraulics is to thread the master shaft. Cut 1/2" out of shaft, thread it with a 3/8-24 die. Buy a 5/16 coupling drill it out and retap with a 3/8-24. This will give you a coupling that more closely matches the diameter of the shaft and is just as strong. My clutch pedal is now positioned just below the brake and gives me the right throw. Before it was above the brake and had too much throw and bent the release bearing. Also remove the eye bushing and grind the sides of the eye to narrow it. Then install the bushing and file it to match the right width.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Drilling out the factory bushing is what most guys have done in the past. Its simple to do that with the standard thirdgen master cylinder...

However, a lot of guys are now running the TICK or a RAM adjustable. Those you can NOT drill. They are spherical rod ends. If you have access to a machine shop you might be able to pull it off, but its not gonna happen with a hand drill in most cases.

What you did will work fine until you upgrade to another master cylinder.

There is another fairly easy way that's been covered...but it requires mutilating a 4th gen clutch pedal. Thats to pop out the peg from the 4th and 3rd gen clutch pedals, and weld the 4th gen peg into the 3rd gen pedal. Requires drilling out the pedal arm a bit, but it works well.

The "drill mod" is a completely different animal. Check install university for the wite up I believe. But basically, the hydraulic line from the master to slave has a constriction at the master cylinder end. The exact term is escaping me right now. But it limits fluid flow. Which can cause sticking and shifting issues when you're really beating on things. So the fix is, to remove the line, use a 1/8" drill bit to CAREFULLY drill through the end and through the restriction. You then flush the line throughly, and re-assemble.

J.

techrunner

nope, this is with the ls1 setup off a 01 camaro.


this was my whole point in this post, there are threads on here that say all these modifications you have to make that in my case weren't necessary. anyone planning on a lsx/t56 swap into a car that was originally a t5 might be able to just drill out the black plastic bushing on the rod end of the t56 master cylinder and bolt it right up.


yeah, i do want to get the tick mc someday, when i can afford it. right now i want to drive my car for the first time in a year, so i'm fine with the stocker.

i will try to get a few pics up here tonight if i get a minute. last night i just wasn't getting to the garage, too much other stuff going on.

techrunner

alright i got a few pics. hopefully they at lesat show what i hove. i didnt stop to take in progress pics, but it was really just drilling out the plastic bushing so you were left with the metal of the master cylinder pushrod only.

cleanwater7

Unless I am not seeing your pics correctly, I do not see the end of the shaft through the eye on the master shaft. It is too wide and does not allow for room to install the locking clip.

1981LT1

iTrader: (1)

guys, all techrunner is saying is that he took out the black bushing on the end of the rod that connects to the clutch pedal. That is it. There is no modifying or drilling of any kind to "tweak" it to match the pedals. Since the 3rd gen hydraulics are slightly different where they hook up to the pedal, the only thing the 4th gen hydraulics needed was to remove the black plastic bushing. Nothing more, nothing less. I did the same exact thing and it worked like a charm.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Thats not all he did... He installed the thirdgen bushing into the 4th gen push rod... Thats an important step...

cleanwater..I think its just the angle of the picture. He should have the same clearances as the stock thirdgen master cylinder rod. Assuming he did in fact use the old thirdgen bushing like his post describes and the pics show.

I HAVE heard of guys boring out the 4th gen bushing and making that work. However if the thirdgen bushing will pop in, and you can get ahold of one...that seems like the better choice.

J.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I just mentioned the drill mod as a "while you're at it" good idea.

(And, I didn't have 3rd gen pedals to start with, so I mounted 4th gen pedals from the donor car.)