mikespeed

Are you using the stock torque arm from your camaro to the T56??

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

yes I am. it fits perfectly in the stock fourth gen mount (drivers side). the bolt that secures it is a real pain though... 15mm head and not alot of space for a socket, not enough space around the head for a wrench either.
i used a 2x4 to lever the thing shut and tightened the bolt most of the way by hand.

~Steven

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

poured in the tranmission fluid and sealed the shifter on tonight. shifted around a bit, couldnt find reverse but oh well, it might be locked out?

also got my O2 bungs welded today:




threaded nicely. headers are ready to go. also bought heater hoses today and ordered the radiator hose i need.


if i get a full day this weekend we may have first fire

~Steven

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

fourth gen shroud modified and screwed in.



got the hoses from autozone, battery tied down, etc.



C100 back in...



fuse block mounted...

i am officially in wiring hell.

~Steven

ericjon262

Go towards the light!

9014josh

iTrader: (1)

i remember thid part! only mine was all lumed before i put it in.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

the wiring is actually going exceptionally well. I need to consult a schematic for the alternator since i have a redundancy in my wiring, but that is easy. Found my fuel pump feed up by the pedals, cut it, and ran it to my new fuse. Almost ready to run the pcm hookups through to the interior.

The only question mark left in my wiring is the pedals... I will look around but any insight would be nice.

I tried to get the headers in today, but its really not going to work
drivers side gets within a quarter inch but a primary is rubbing on the k member/frame and it wont fit.

on the pass. side i need to pull the starter and then i think it will work?
not sure what to do here...
they are heddman part 68469 D port third gen headers

any help and advice appreciated

~Steven

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Hedmans need a few dents to clear in a 3rd gen

Heres the alt diagram. Pin L gets a 470ohm resistor (or small light bulb) on it then Tees into the wire for pin L. That gets connected to a single 12v IGN source
http://www.lt1swap.com/pictures/100_1594.jpg

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

yep i had this (http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_95.jpg) page printed so i checked it out last night. I soldered the resistor in line from Pin L to its IGN source at the fuse block
tucked the C100 alt wire from the old 305 away

for the pedals...
i know reverse lights is spliced into the old auto wiring. for reverse lockout and the brake switch- should i run them both to the pcm and it will deal with it? I know it has a brake switch input pin on the clear connector and a reverse lockout control pin on the blue one. Other than that VSS goes to the pcm, clutch switch goes into auto wiring, and thats it for the transmission and pedals?

i think i just need to spend some quality time with the drivers side header taking some persuasive hammer shots...
pass. side i am hopeful will fit with the starter pulled.


~Steven

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Correct. GM was nice enough to group all the necessary splices for a trans swap in the old auto connector

9014josh

iTrader: (1)

headers should fit without a hammer or at least mine did im running third gen hedman shortys.the passangers side slid right in place from above and the drivers side was a bit pain,i had to pull the motor mount bolt and jack the motor up about 2 inches to get it to drop in from above as well.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

yeah im trying to fit longtubes, and it definitely will need a hammer. both fit in from the bottom but cant reach the proper angle to get bolted in.

84redta

iTrader: (34)

Looking good man, glad yours is going well. I just got my motor in tonight with the harness ready to plug and play, so we're just about in the same boat, I just need to put my tranny up and cut my hole two inches back. Glad to see you're doing well, I'll probably update mine sometime soon with pics once i'm done because I need to get this thing up and running. Have fun with her!

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Are you swapping in a t-56 tranny or 4l60e? I have heard that the 4l60e bolts right into the stock bolt hole locations.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

By the way, Kthxbai, nice job on the swap! Can't wait to hear from you how it runs. I'm doing my wiring harness the easy way. Pocket's gonna make my harness for me. I don't feel like messing with it.

I don't know if I'll have the time to do a thread on my swap. I want to just get it done and have it ready to go.

I'll probably just take a bunch of pics then post them up or something like that.

We shall see.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

thanks for the compliment, and good luck.

today:
finished the underhood wiring completely, and plugged in the PCM for a few test fires before i route it inside

this was right after i soldered my last wire, bundles are for each pcm connector


you can see here i put the power dist. block down on the frame rail, it works nicely



so close


also mounted the power steering reservoir on the drivers side:


still enough room to run my air filter over there too


and dented the header to fit drivers side. im going to work on pulling the starter and fitting the passenger side tonight!

~Steven

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Nearly there!

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

What's the deal with the power steering lines? What is a good kit/parts list to get to replace the stock lines, so they'll work?

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

if you have f-body accessories then you can bend the high pressure line to fit. Took me an hour or so and I almost kinked it but it worked ok. Other than that you have two low pressure lines, box to reservoir and pump to reservoir. They are simply 3/8 and 5/8 hoses cut to fit.



installed the steam vent T fitting.


the passenger side header was absolutely perfect once the starter was dropped, and there was plenty of room to put it back once the header was sealed up.


got the heater hoses cut and clamped in
I also threaded my O2 sensors and plugged them in. The bungs are perfectly angled.


finally, got an air filter. It sags where it is now straight off the MAF but I plan on piping it over into the battery tray later on. It will do for now.

~Steven

left to do:
reinstall brake booster
get hoses for power steering
get gas
start the damn thing!

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

got the power steering hoses today and put them in, also reinstalled the brake booster which was a pain:


that does it for the pedals, now i just need to wire in the brake switch.



the only thing that bothers me is how close the gas is to the brake...
any ideas for getting some seperation?

also, how do you adjust a throttle cable to match the floor with WOT? never done it before.

i got some gas tonight, and everything else is ready. I am waiting for a fuel pressure gauge for the schrader valve from summit that will be here tuesday. Only reason being i have a new adjustable fuel pressure regulator and i need to set it to stock (43 psi) before i fire it.

~Steven

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Did you have to make those power steering lines, or did they come like that? Looks like Earl's fittings and do-it-yourself SS braid-covered rubber lines. They look nice.

Also, what fittings did you use for connecting the fuel lines? Wait, you ran SS lines all the way from the fuel tank, if I remember correctly. They connect at the rear, correct--unlike our engines, which connect in the front?

I can't wait to get my 97 home and look at the darn engine and figure stuff out.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

take a minute to read through a few pages of this thread, it has more detail on all these things. The 95 LT1 fuel rail hookups are at the rear on the drivers side. I ran new stainless lines from the tank all the way up front. The power steering lines arent visible in those pictures, they are all in front between the water pump and the radiator. i took the high pressure line that came with the engine and bent it to reach the steering box, and then used regular old heater hoses for the other lines.

look at https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...formation.html for specific part numbers for fuel line fittings and connections.

~Steven

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

got the throttle cable adjusted tonight. I actually cut off the piece at the pedal end, and screwed in a brass tube with two set screws that hold right where i want it. perfect TB travel

found my thread tape so i can get the fittings on the coolant T fitting sealed up. tomorrow my fuel pressure gauge comes in, with any luck i will have a start up video tomorrow night

in the mean time i have new front brake pads, and i still havent gotten the new ball joints in...

~Steven

84redta

iTrader: (34)

Way to go man, as far as what was asked above, I'm going T56 which need the 2 inches of clearance in the back as well as the mount moved to accomodate the new location.

Which lines are which for power steering? I've got Fbody lines. Is the one that is mainly a metal line the pressure? And that would leave the line that is mainly hose the return? I'd like to use my factory LO3 power steering cooler and need to figure out which one is the return line and which one is the pressure.

For what was brought up above about fuel lines, another option for some people may be to use a '93 fuel rail like I am, of which makes everything come out in the factory 3rd gen locations and you can easily double flare the fittings into factory lines and use some factory GM (I used caliver lines) quick connect fuel hoses and everything looks factory, but other than that, I've got a tranny to bolt up, exhaust to slip on, and fluids, but I think you'll be starting it before I will be. Hope all goes well!

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

High pressure line was direct from the PS pump to box. Return came from the box, through the steel line cooler and back to the reservoir via rubber trans line

84redta

iTrader: (34)

Appreciate it, I ended up ordering a high pressure line for a Caprice, and then i'll be butt connecting power steering hose to the low pressure side. Thanks Pocket!

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

alright im really pissed.

i connected my battery and went to build fuel pressure, and my new fancy 250 dollar fuel lines are leaking at every single AN fitting all over the place by the time i hit 10 psi.

HELP?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Are they torqued properly? Its easy to forget

Next, are the SS lines fully seated in the fittings. When you screw them down the flare will try to push the lines back out. You need to keep the pressure on to keep them from walking back out, or buy the tool. Easy way to test this is to try and pull the line out of the fitting

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

alright well it became extremely obvious after googling that I overtightened all of my AN fittings and ruined them.

never saw mention of how tight they should be in the instructions i used online. i sealed the blue male side of the strait fittings flush against the female red part...

im trying so hard not to curse right now. ordered five new strait adapters from summit just now. everything will be on hold until that happens.


on the bright side, my fuel pump works like a champ and my wiring appears flawless thus far.

~Steven

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Yikes, fittings arent cheap

Congrats on the wiring, thats the hardest part

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

i am assuming i just need to replace the strait line to AN fittings. The others are all O ring and pipe threads so that cant be wrong.

how tight exactly should the blue and red parts be on the straits?

~Steven

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Just above snug

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

alright well lesson learned i guess. one other question somebody may be able to answer is that my blinkers turned on but didnt blink... lol
also i dont know where the controls are for the high beams in my car, the **** for lights half way out is running lights, then all the way out is headlights...

~Steven

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

That's a bummer about your fuel line fittings. There's always a bump or two in the road. I'm sure I'll have mine, when I start my swap.

The high beams should be the turn signal lever--you pull it back toward you, while sitting in the driver's seat, and it clicks to high beams.

By the way, I cannot believe that I was so tired the other day and was looking at your fuel lines near the firewall and thought I was looking at the front of your engine, and I thought they were power steering lines. I was more tired than I realized. Sheesh.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

alright so with the downtime i decided to get going on the brakes and ball joints...

used a nut splitter to destroy the two castle nuts on top, and a seperater tool to pop the steering knuckle up, but I dont have any way of pressing the actually joint itself out of the A arm. I am planning to rent the tool from autozone tomorrow or sometime this weekend and just pop the old ones out and the new ones in.

for the brakes, i still cant find an allen wrench that fits the first bolts i need to remove... all i can find is metric sets that jump 8 to 10 mm, and it appears a 9 would work lol
im sure its standard anyway

~Steven

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Rent the balljoint press. Its a giant C-clamp and will take you longer to determine the proper combo of sleeves than it will to do the actual job. Eat your wheaties that day too, its pretty stout

The calipers use a 3/8" allen. Might be a good idea to buy the individual socket for future brake jobs. Dont use the metric key in there, you DONT want to round those out

9014josh

iTrader: (1)

hahaha yup i had to rent a ball joint press last week too and had the same problem.Once i figured out how to do it i was all set but it took awhile getting there..

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

having some issues putting the new balljoints in.

the old ones popped right out with the press, so i cleaned out the holes and went to put the new ones in.



the sides of both balljoints closest to the outside of the car are totally in and flush, but the inner sides are barely seated.



because of the contour of the A arm, the press cant apply force in a level way, so im getting this annoying angle, and i cant get the inside half of either joint to pull in.

help?

~Steven

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Wedge a washer or other scrap metal under the unseated section of the ring to level out the press. Alternately, you could just torque it down harder. Itll straiten up

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

well i doubled the length of my lever to about 5 feet and put a hurtin on the ball joints. Got them in finally.

I went through and torqued all my new steering stuff to spec and put in the cotter pins. I also managed to find the allen key i need for the brake calipers so i can do the new pads sometime this week.

i replaced four of my five AN strait fittings on the fuel lines today. I had to run so i will finish it tomorrow night. The rubber inside the lines was slightly threaded from the fittings, but i installed the new ones to just a touch past finger tight, and hopefully it will seal up. Worst case i need new lines...

~Steven

9014josh

iTrader: (1)

I had the EXACT same problem with my ball joint and just torqued the sh** out of it and hammered it and finally got it..figured i did something wrong but i guess i wasnt the only one.I cant wait to do the other side!

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Just checking the fuel fitting issue...I'll be back.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

Well I finished the new strait fittings, and I'm still leaking from almost all of my connections. I'm going to try tightening the other fittings (male to female threads etc) and try again. I'm really dissapointed so far with all these fittings.

~Steven

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

no luck.

with some extra hose and an old fitting i tried with my air compressor to see if it would make any sense, and it leaks profusely from a joint inside the fitting that i havent even messed with, and thats what it looks like on the car too...


leaks like crazy from there on all of them.
i think im going to lose my mind.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

ok so i tightened the fittings considerably more and only two have moisture appear when i am priming.

now the problem is i am hitting 29 psi and turning the screw on my accel regulator doesnt change anything..?
sits at 29 no matter how many times you turn the key.

very confused
~Steven

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Leaking at the swivel means defective fittings, not your fault

Send them back, with a nasty note. What brand are your fittings

Excessive leaks can cause the pump not to build enough pressure because all the gas is being pissed out of the faulty fittings

Using your pic, anything leaking around the red collar means the hose isnt seated properly. Anything leaking at the tip of the threaded end is either not torqued or over torqued stripping the alum threads. You couldnt damage the fitting where you circled unless you ran a drill bit through it

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

they arent leaking enough to prevent pressure buildup, its so slow that it evaporates before a drop falls.

i kept tightening the screw on the AFPR waiting for anything to change as i pumped, and now it wont back out. nothing moved from 28-29 psi.

maybe ill just drain it and put the stocker back on. i cant figure out why it wouldnt budge the gauge. the pump sounds good and for the life of me i cant imagine i put the filter in reverse or anything.

any advice would be great or a place to start...

~Steven

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Pop the rail off so the tips of the injectors are exposed. Unplug all 8

Now prime the pump and see if the injectors are leaking. With them unplugged they shouldnt leak a drop with pressure applied

If thats not it, try the regulator next. Borrow a stock LTx regulator and put on there to see if it build pressure. If thats not it either, it looks like the tank needs to come back out. Check the hose from the pump to the sender, it may have disintegrated or split open from a previous tiny hole

If its still not there, you need to bench test the pump

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

thanks Jon,
ill start there tomorrow night. i already pulled the gauge off and depressurized for now. I was going to throw the stock LT1 regulator on as my first thing but leaking injectors would do it too...

i did the front brake pads tonight so i could feel like i got something done anyways lol

when you say pop the rail off do you mean actually unscrew the four screws and pull them up or just unclip each injector?

~Steven

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Unbolt, pop the rail away from the intake and unplug the injectors from the harness. The effort is to prime the pump and see if a leaky injector is causing all your pressure to bleed off. If they appear to be fine, move on to the next in line: regulator. So on...