joe307

hey guys I have the install takin car of. its the wiring that I want to look into.
do I just swap the harness? what about speedo and gauges?

Atilla the Fun

Speedo depends on what you used for a trans. If you used the LT1's trans, you can use the signal from that to run your O.E. 110 mph speedo.

joe307

ok well here

I have a 1994 z28 complete driving car that has been hit hard in the rear and a is way to much to repair, still runs and drives fine

I already own a 1991 rs v8 they are side by side now, just waiting till its warm

so what would be my best bet to go with I am new to the v8 world, mostly imports prior to this,

I was planning on going with the complete drive line from the 1994 lt1, no ac, I got the steering lines takin care of, rear end fits just a lil wider, switch the fans and fuel pump, but the wiring, I want it done right... is there a step by step book or whats the best way to do it!

Atilla the Fun

To be legal, you need to use all the wiring from the '94. Get a roll of masking tape, a felt-tip pen, and a camera, and start labelling every connector. If you're going racing or some other situation where passing an emissions test isn't an issue, then PainlessWiring offers a harness, with excellent instructions. But it'll run like $700. Painless also offers another version that includes a performance camshaft, and a computer that's already programmed for it, and eliminates the anti-theft. Also not emissions-legal.

joe307

what needs to be labeld like under the dash? I should just remove the harness in my 1991 and completely install the 1994 harness and just get aftermarket gauges? ill still have to wire the signals and lights but that should be it no?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

First, welcome aboard thirdgen.org.

Now, there is a sticky in the top section of the Engine Swap and LTX and LSX swap subforum (where this thread is now located). Read through it, the wiring is covered.

joe307

F-BODY LT1 ENGINE WIRING HARNESS.

VATS 16 pin PASSKEY II
|------------------------|
A8| [] [] [] [] [] [] [] []| A1
B8| [] [] [] [] [] [] [] []| B1
|------------------------|

Slot Wire Color Description
A1 Orn Power feed from ECM BAT fuse #4
A2 Pnk Power feed from ECM IGN fuse #5
A3 DK BLU Fuel enable signal
A4 YEL/BLK Starter enable relay control
A5 GRY "Security" indicator lamp control
B5 BLK/WHT Ground
B7 PPL/WHT Ignition key resistor return
B8 WHT/BLK Ignition key resistor feed

| | Top White 10 pin
|K|J|H|G|F|
|A|B|C|D|E|

K is DK GRN and is the coolant temperature feed to instrument cluster.
J is DK GRN/WHT and is fuel pump replay control
H is empty.
G is DK GRN/WHT and is vehicle speed signal.
F is GRY and is fuel pump motor feed.
A is RED and is Alternator feed to instrument cluster.
B is TAN and is oil pressure feed to instrument cluster.
C is BRN and is oil level feed to instrument cluster.
D is empty.
E is empty or if you have a manuel tranny it is the clutch anticipate signal and is GRY.

| | Top Blue 10 pin
|K|J|H|G|F|
|A|B|C|D|E|

K is TAN/BLK and is (Automatic) torque converter clutch control.
J is ORN/BLK and is (Automatic) park/neutral feed from transmission position switch.
NOTE: If this vehicle is manuel the wire would be LT GRN and would be (manuel) backup lamp feed.
H is LT BLU/BLK and is (Automatic) TCC switched power feed.
NOTE: If this vehicle is manuel the would be be BRN and be (manuel) power from turn B/U fuse # 2 to backup switch and would be brown.
G is PNK and power feed from ECM IGN fuse # 5
F is DK GRN/WHT and is A/C request signal
E is DK BLU and is theft deterrent - fuel enable feed.
D is WHT and is techometer signal to instrument cluster.
C is WHT/BLK and is diagnostic request signal.
B is service engine soon indicator feed.
A is empty.

Black Connector 4 pin
|A|B|C|D|
A is PPL and is ignition (crank starter) (connected to starter relay)
B is BLK/WHT Ground
C is ORN Power feed from ECM BAT fuse #4
D is Empty

C100. It's connected to the underhood fuse block.
|A|B|C|D|E|
|K|J|H|G|F|
| |
A is PNK and is power feed from injector fuse 9
B is DK GRN/WHT and is A/C compressor relay control
C is DK GRN and is A/C compressor clutch solenoid feed
D is TAN and is serial data signal.
E is BRN and is Air Pump Replay Control.(connected to AIR-PUMP solenoid relay)-->(RELAY CONNECTED TO BATTERY)
F is BRN and is power feed from FANS/SOLs Fuse 6
G is PNK and is power feed from ignition fuse 11
H is DK BLU and is secondary coolant fan relay control
J is DK and is primary fan replay control.
K is PNK and is power feed from injector fuse 10.


thx for you emails I'm happy that people are refered to me for answer, I just don't have enough time on my hands. __________________
93 - LT1 POWERED
Headmans Longtubes, full dual, Hurst V-Matic 2, 2002 4th gen leather seats,Custom dash with Phantom Autometer gauges, GTA molded door panels, Hotchkis Panhard,boxed control arms, Airfoil. Sub frame connectors, 17 X 9.5 ARE rims with 275'' All around, Zexel posi, 3.42 gears.

joe307

witch of these wires do I mess with?

chevyowner02

iTrader: (3)

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=474185
Seems a little more layed out to me.

joe307

ok so major set back today

I went and started the donor car and the valves were sticky so I got out and pop'd the hood my brother jumped in and gave it a shot of gas and I herd what sounded like to me a spun bearing it was knocking.........so what now is this my chance to do a tear down and stroke it out or should I forget that motor?

joe307

will my heads fit on my 305?
can I still swap the rear end from the 1994 camaro z28 into my 1991rs camaro? drive shaft fit?

and what are some suggestion on building the motor,
I would like 400 hp
the fact that its making noise, I wanna do crank and bearings rods pistons Ill bore it cam kit, should I forget my motor?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The LT1 heads won't fit on a 305.

The 4th gen rear end will (as long as you put wheels with 4th gen backspacing on). The driveshaft will fit.

400 HP from an LT1 isn't too hard with cam & exhaust.