ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Ok... did you install the top bolt in those pictures? If so...there's your problem. That top hole needs to be modified. At least...it did on mine. Which is why Im always surprised when guys claim that they bolt right in with no mods. Remove the pedals, and bolt up the booster first. Then you'll have to modify that top hole. Probably egg it to the passenger side.

For the gas pedal, I thought most guys cut that off of the 4th gen set. then mounted it by itself. I know it doesnt just fit right in without some bending at least. Which is why when I was running 4th gen pedals I didnt even bother with the gas pedal. I just bent the 3rd gen gas pedal, and used knots/zip ties to make the cable length correct. If I would have bent it more, I wouldnt have needed the knots or ties.

I certainly wouldnt modify the studs or the firewall jsut to use the 4th gen gas pedal. Not worth it. If you ever have to remove the brake/clutch pedal assembly, which is more likely than the gas pedal, you'll have to deal with all that.

Just my $.02...

Justin

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Guess I didn't mention that I cut off the 4th gen accelerator pedal and used the 3rd gen unit (bent in order to get full throttle with the carpet in place).

It's been so long, I don't remember for sure, but I may have drilled out one or more of the 4 mount holes as well. But, as I recall, they did all line up.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Ream out the hole up top and it should work fine. Making sure the firewall bolts line up is the important part

I bent my throttle arm slightly but it wasnt enough. I wedged the TB to WOT and added heavy duty zip ties to the cable under the dash to pull the pedal off the carpet. I set WOT to approx 1" off the carpet

For your wiring, the only essential wire to crank the car is the pink IGN wire from C100 F4. You must use some sort of fuse block on an 82, the rest of the essentials will come from there. Gauges wires are your own deal, check the 82 pinout

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Those holes are beyond reaming guys... He'll have to ream them a bit to fit the thirdgen booster studs. I think three of the holes right? But those are WAY off. Due to the fact that the upper mount on the 4th gen pedals is different than on thirdgens...slightly. I had to make that hole look like an "L" before it was all said and done. If he bolted in the upper mount to hold them up for mocking...thats the issue. Mock them up with the booster studs since thats where the pedals really belong. As it sits now, the brake push rod wont even be going straight into the booster...

Justin

Crud...thought I had a picture of what I did to make my 4th gen set fit...I have a 1000 pictures of everything else haha. No luck though..just pics of me swapping the clutch pedal pin.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

My recently-revived thread about mounting the pedals:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...h-gen-t56.html

No mention of any drilling of the top four bolts, but I vaguely remember drilling out at least one of the pedal bracket holes.

Key, I think, is the accelerator pedal. Don't let it locate the rest of the assembly.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

I noticed when I installed the 3rd gen set, that the 4th gen booster's studs were really small compared to the holes. So I can see where you might have to ream some of the holes of the 4th gen set if you are using the 3rd gen booster.

I still dont see any advantage to the 4th gen gas pedal.

J.

screeminchicken

iTrader: (2)

I was going to use the 4th gen brake booster. I thing the whole assembly should move over to the driver side (when facing pedal from inside to the left). but that accel stud is in the way. I really want to cut that out and see if that will help line the brake boster holes. I think the center bolt that holds the whole assembly under the dash will be off too. I may have to drill a new hole and the weld a nut in.
I now wish I had a welder or knew sombody who do


On the side not I found a set of 3rd gen pedals but he doesnt have any of the switches or connectors for it. How difficult is to find replacemnts ?
Exspecially the sqr clutch switch . I dont think I can use the 4th gen switch

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

The brake switches should transfer over from any auto car which are plentiful in JYs. A replacement switch should be easy to find at autozone. I think Ive got a pigtail for it...

screeminchicken

iTrader: (2)

Jon...you are talking about the clutch switch that may be available at autozone right ? It would be great if you could hold the pigtail for the same.

The pedals are in St. louis and have not yet got a hold of the guy

Thanks again man !!

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Depends what year thirdgen they are out of. 82-86 used a different type of switch than the 87-02. Yes...87-02 used the same square, black switch with the big "button". You can get them at autozone for pretty cheap. Also...the pigtail is different on the 82-86 cars for the clutch safety switch. Just fyi... Since your car is an 82, if you get pedals for an 87+, you'll need to change the pigtail for the newer style switch. If the pedals are 82-86...you'll just need the proper clutch switch, which you can still get I think.

I THINK this is what the older switch looks like...



Like Pocket said, any brakelight switch will work...I kept my factory switch in place. In fact..when I had 4th gen pedals, I think the brake switch used the same plug. Cant remember. Either way, it should still work.

On the pedals...Just ignore the gas pedal and the top (vertical) bolt for now. Bolt the pedals in using nothing but the booster. Thats the important part. Then look at where the gas pedal sits, and the upper mount hole. You'll be able to just re-drill, or egg out the upper hole. And you might decide you want to cut the gas pedal off when you see it.

You'll get it...

Justin

screeminchicken

iTrader: (2)

Just came in from the garage
The 4th gen booster specifically one from a 2002 TA doesnt fit my firewall. All 4 bolts line up but the center hole is to small.

I think its safe to conclude that nothing fits an early (82-83??) firebird.

57kid,
To make sure Are you working on a 82 camaro ? what brake booster are you using ? would there be that much difference bw early firebirds and camaro

I am confused...........

Now wondering if any 3rd gen pedal assembly would work in my 82 ta

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

'82 Camaro. I can say an '86 Camaro sports coupe is the same thing.

I have no clue about 'Birds.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Thats weird man... How much smaller is the hole in your firewall than the booster? Just a tiny bit, or a ton?

Ill admit that I dont have much experience with the really early cars. But its obvious there are a good bit of differences.

There has to be something that'll work for you though. Its just a speedbump. You're doing so much custom work to begin with...just need a little more

J

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

In my opinion, there isn't any. That's why I cut it off and bent the 3rd gen pedal until it provided WOT with a factory throttle cable.

screeminchicken

iTrader: (2)

Also do let me know if anyone has any leads on a 3rd gen pedal set.

screeminchicken

iTrader: (2)

I hope you guys can let me know if I need to be worried or not....
I got some new parts but I was kinda surprised......paid over 1K for these parts and the dealer gave the usual answer.
Does the slave ususally come pre greased ?



To me it looks like grease or clutch dust on a new Clutch plate !!! ???






Let me know if it raises any flags or you guys see anything out of norm.

Thanks guys

cam-

Im not sure what you mean about "pre greased slave"? Perhaps im missing something in the pic? The center does look likes its coated in anti-sieze or something though is it?

As for the disk? Ya it looks a little grimy... Keep in mind no matter who you buy stuff from at the end of the day your at the mercy of the guy whol built it in the factory which is practically NEVER the guy or shop that sold it to you. The guy who banged that disk together should have washed his hands or his gloves a little more frequently.

That said it doesnt look like anything some brake parts cleaner cant fix in a jiffy.

Very wise IMO to post the pics and ask though. I triple check everything on my builds regardless of who/where I bought my parts. Keeping a close eye on the QC makes for few surprises after your done.

screeminchicken

iTrader: (2)

So that grey gueeyy stuff is antisieze. not grease ? didnt know that. Also I didnt know the GM slaves are made in China.

Ya my problem is I never done a build on this scale. Never handled new automotive parts. I have the expectation that when I save up for a long time and pay for some thing thats costs over $1000. They should be at least be good looking.

I am going to measure the clutch disk material . manuf said its should vary but be some where bw .300 to .310 range. not sure what units. Does that sound about right for a new disk ?

I am hoping some of the experienced builders used to buying lot of parts can comment

Shift06

It looks like the clutch has never been used to me, just mishandled by a greasy handed dude. I think you are OK. I just got an intake throttle cable bracket brand new from GM, sealed in a GM baggy and it was scratched up like a mother.

screeminchicken

iTrader: (2)

thanks guys.....make me feel ok about the stuff. I am not sure when I would get this running to test it out.

Going to help a friend pull his 4.3 out of his truck for a 5.3, if the weather cooperates , I and him may hit the junk yard for some T5 pedals.

Hopefully I will get lucky

Everyone have a good weekend

NArtissimus

Hey,
Not jacking the thread but incase anyone else is following this for the pedal fitment story, here is my accomplishment taday. I only needed to work with auto pedals since mine is getting a 4L60E but I swapped in the pedals and the booster from an 01 into my 88, and I had very minor fitment issues.
Ofcourse as mentioned before the top main bolt won't line up and the lower gas pedal bolt is not even close. But the Only other fitment or aligning issue I had was the hole for the booster shaft, and very minor at that. On my car the hole for the boot was about 3/16 smaller than the 4th gen boot. It being basically just a weather strip I easily pulled it through from the inside with a pair of pliers and it seals very nicely to the firewall.
I had NO bolt fitment issues at the firewall for the booster. The studs for the 4th gen booster are 5/16 compared to 3/8 on the 3rd gens (or metric equivalents) and that seems to be what is requiring the reaming.
Under the hood the 4th gen booster fits great. It's a slight bit closer to the firewall and tad larger but no interference with anything important.

screeminchicken

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info....I should have read your post before I headed to the JY.......maybe not. I was not able to find any T5 pedals but......















look like it may not clear the hood. I may have to either flip the bracket or mod it.

screeminchicken

iTrader: (2)

Does the location of the clutch MC hole look close ?
I am going to put all the brace and stearing colum back in before I start cutting for the clutch MC hole.



Jason,

How did you route the clutch hydrolic lines thru the inside of the car ? was the length of the line that came frpm tick long enough ? or did you have to use fittings and extra lines to lengthen it ?

Thanks

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

By Jason..you mean me right? haha.

Looks good! So you are using hydro now? I thought about doing that but never got around to collecting parts.

That "pop out" in the firewall is for an older style cable clutch...I THINK. I think the early cars had an old school cable set up, someone correct me if Im wrong. So while its in the approximate location, you're going to need to do some measuring and checking. Ide say lay the master cylinder in through that hole and see what you come up with.

Here is where my hyd line goes inside.


And here is where it goes through the tunnel. I basically drilled the hole through the tunnel straight in line with the quick connect. You might want to actually put it slightly lower, so the line goes closer to the floor. My feet dont really sit there so it hasnt caused any problems.


The TICK line is exactly like the original. If not a tad longer. No pics of that line routed.

Here is a picture I took a while ago for you on how my top hole ended up for my 4th gen pedals. Its ugly. haha.


Justin

screeminchicken

iTrader: (2)

sorry, I meant justin.......

Thanks for the photos

Ya I got to do the top hole of the T56 pedal assembly. Its so so close but no banana..

The hydro unit is from a Astro van.....they are dime a dozen in the JY. Take a trip to your local before it gets too hot. Pretty easy to get out 4 15mm bolts , some snips , screw driver and line wrenches.

I have read that most of the newer mustangs , 2T and desiel trucks have the same unit. just the mounting bracket is different.

You would have to use a 4th gen or similar brake MC though.

screeminchicken

iTrader: (2)

Is it just the angle of the pic , or does Spike-Z Tick MC look more level to the frame rails rather than how it ususally seen going downwards towards the frame rail.



Mine mocked up just as Justins did

Wonder how he did it or did he get a different Tick MC (GTO, Vette) or does it have to do anything with his car being a 5 speed orginally

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Its pointing down just like usual. The camera is on the same plain as the chassis rail. Makes it look like the cylinder is level, but it mounts the same way mine, and yours does.

J.