Aaron91RS

iTrader: (2)

I have the full harness, not just the engine side. How are you guys wiring it up. Obviously the side with the 4 weather pack connectors are important.
What about all the wires on the left side bundle that go in to the driver side cabin? Do I need anything in that bundle? Does stuff in that bundle trip relays important to the other side?

I've removed all the front lights, egr and a.i.r stuff from the bundle. I do want to keep the A/C stuff for now

Here's a pic, anyone that has pics of what they did would be appreciated.
I should be able to avoid doing all the homemade relays since I have the whole box right?

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

That looks too familiar. Im so glad I dont have to mess with any of that this next time around...

You should try to post a bigger picture of the plugs in question. I cat remember what all is over there. Is that the column switch plugs I see? High beam and ignition cylinder wiring? I cant tell and I cant remember whats spliced into that harness...

Anyway.... If you do it right, and dont cut out things that you needed..you will be able to give batt. power to the fuse blocks, then give switched 12v to the IGN relay. That will power everything up when you hit the key. Then you wont need relays for anything what so ever. The fan relays are all set up...and those plugs work for either the dual fan TPI fans or the LS1 fast (obviously).

Be careful of the pink wires.... Its very easy to ditch one of those connections and kill a circuit. I was very careful when building my harness, yet I still managed to kill my O2 heaters, EVAP solenoid, and MAF sensor since they are on the same power circuit. Probably something else too... But i had to then reconnect power to them all after the fact.

Post up bigger pictures of the connectors, and we'll let ya know what you can ditch.

J.

cam-

Looks daunting doesn't it?

Its not. If you take a look at the sticky you'll see the very last link in the wiring section has a couple of pics of how I did mine. Theres explanations of what I eliminated and why

BUT...

Before you even think about getting to that stage did you do a spread sheet up yet similar to the first link in the wiring section? Then did you label each and every wire with masking tape and a description of what it is/does? Sure dont look like it to me in that pic. Do that first and I can walk you through it pretty easy ( Heck do that and you'll easily walk yourself through it ) But dont do it and end up in a land of confusion far far away in another galaxy long ago LOL

Aaron91RS

iTrader: (2)

Alright I edited it a little with the stuff I knew.
No one talks much about the stuff going in to the drivers side cabin. I guess because a lot don't get this harness. Anyway I don't know what the plugs are specifically, other then they connect up under the steering column.
I'm sure one's the igniton, one vats, one could be wipers or something but I took the other wiper plug out that went to the wiper motor.

This website resizing the pic down.
Bigger one is here of the orginal pic labeled.
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/3725/wiringux7.jpg

Bigger pic of just the stuff in the driver cabin is here before I removed anything. You can see there's extra plugs and wires then the above pic. Hope I didn't remove something critcal.




The scarey part is I have another pile of wires this big that I already removed from this loom. ABS, Evap, and stuff like that I tuned out.

cam-

First off I can tell from your questions that you have no pin outs for your car. Get them. That is very model specific you must first find all the wiring schems for your car and know exactly what each wire on each of those plugs does. DO NOT CUT ANYTHING out until you have all of these LABELED. Wrap masking tape around each one with about a 4" tail and write on it Clearly what it is.

Now when you label the wires ( And I'm not talking about the plugs I mean every single WIRE ) which you must do before you delete ANYTHING or you might bone yourself. But when you do label them and make a cross reference chart like this ( from the sticky but it was the second link sorry )

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...s1-wiring.html

Then you can see what can stay and what can go. Its not all that hard but you MUST follow some orderly procedure here and label EVERYTHING I dont know how much I can say that. You will never and I mean never plan out an entire wiring harness in your head and then simply do it. You must go at it one wire at a time and you cant be bouncing back and forth going "Whats the blue wire again... wait which blue... wait... ah screw it I'll just forget about it) you have to know what every wire you touch is.

Then its easy

In my case from the LS1 fuse box I only have one wire going from it to the C100. Power thats it. Coming out of the C100 I used the purple for the starter. The brown to the alt for my volt gauge and thats it as far as splices there go. I re-used all the other stock circuits/plugs to power my wipers, interior, driving lights etc i just left allll that stuff intact as per third gen stock.

Then from the LS1 PCM I have quite a few splices to various sources. Tach, Fuel pump relay ( If you read my link you'll notice I had to relocate it to eliminate one of the LS1 fuse boxes ) and others I cannot recall off the top of my head.

Aaron91RS

iTrader: (2)

I have this pin out if that's what you mean.
Still doesn't help me. Still can't find anything detailed about the drivers side ls1 wiring. It's all about the passenger side 220 and 230.

cam-

Who cares about that? All you need to worry about are the plugs. ALl i used was this ( 87 C100 they differ year to year )

And the same type of pictures/charts as this for the three plugs by the heater box and thats it. You dont have to worry about those mass schematics yet. Those are handy for specifics but I only used them here and there for reference to make sure I was using the right circuits

Klortho

The LS1 engine harness is all you really need to wire it up. If you want to use the fuse box, that has all of the fuses and relays for the engine and fans. You don't need the bulkhead connector going inside of the car since the lights and such go through a seperate harness under the hood and that fusebox is inside the car with the dash..

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Bingo...what those guys said. I thought I saw some column plugs in your first picture....

All of that stuff stays with your thirdgen. The LS1 fuse block harness can be reduced to get rid of most of that... So that it just distributes power for the engine harness and fans and what not... Gotta get some good wiring diagrams. I didnt use one for my 87. Well..just the one in the back of the hanes book. It was pretty easy. But I did use a good one for the LS1 harness. I forget where I got it...but it was a couple hundred page download.

J.

Aaron91RS

iTrader: (2)

So then the short answer is I don't need anything on the left side of the above ls1 harness that went in to the dash via the drivers side.

cam-

That depends. If you want to use the LS1 fuse box and whittle it down to only one you have to repin the fuel pump circuit over to the other box. If you look at the little chart/diagram/schematic/whatever on top of the two LS1 fuse boxes you'll notice that one pretty much deals with the chassis ( ie: headlights, interior etc etc. ) and one is basically all engine compartment/computer circuits.

The way I thought about this was: "Hmm if this one box pretty much controls all the LS1 engine, A/C, and computer circuits then all I need to do is plug the plugs coming out of this thing into the LS1 engine harness and supply power to this here fuse block and all these fuses and relays will work and I dont have to re-wire bupkiss" Sounded easy enough to me and it is ALMOST that easy. The fuel pump relay is in that box but for whatever reason the fuse is in the other one. So I moved that one over into a spare circuit and spliced the wire from the spare to the relay ( same wire that went to the fuse in the other box ) and voila I was happening.

Aaron91RS

iTrader: (2)

Looking at the pic of yours actually.
Yep moved the one fuel pump fuse wire over to the 'etc' spot, although at first I think I will just use the 3rdgen fuel relay unless that's a problem. Then after it's running redo some of it.
Anything else I should move over?

cam-

Most do just that. I went from a factory carb car over so I needed to add extra circuits but most swappers come from a fuelly car and dont have to.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

My car was TPI...but I ditched all the original stuff. I wanted the new wiring and I wanted it all together. Plus I went with the 4th gen tank. So I needed to goof with wiring for the fuel pump anyway.

Those fuse blocks come in real handy. Once you fish through all the stuff you dont need. I chose to just keep both boxes. Mainly because I got tired of messing with them. haha. But also because it left me with extra circuits for anything I might want to add later. I fused my line lock off of it, my reverse lock out (manual switch), and a few other odds and ends. Kinda useful sometimes.

J.

slickvic

FINALLY ! SOMETHING THAT MADE SOME KIND OF SENSE
NOW, CAN I USE THIS SAME SETUP ON MY 94 LT1 (GOING INTO A 88 CAMARO V6) ALL AUTOMATIC CONNECTION WILL ELIMINATED DO TO THE FACT THAT I'LL BE RUNNING A MANUAL TRANS. IS THERE ANY OTHER CONNECTION THAT NEEDS TO BE MADE FROM THE BULK HEAD?
THANK VIC..

Aaron91RS

iTrader: (2)

Here's what I did for the ls1 but I don't know if it's right yet.
I gutted the box and started from scratch.
I realized you can fit 3 big relays and 2 of the smaller ones in a single box. For now I only need 3 big ones and 1 small one so 4 total. I have each relay on it's own 50amp fuse which is overkill but oh well.
2 of the big relays are for the 4 15amp pink wires. The other big relay is for the starter. The smaller relay is for the 20amp single wire and finally the orange blu-57 wire has constant 10amp fused power.
Does this seem right. Is blu-57 the only constant power wire I need?

slickvic

HEY GETTOCRUISER, YOU HAVE TIME TO ANSWER A VERY SERIOUS QUESTION ON WIRING HARNESS.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Haha...Ill do my best. PM or ask here...doesnt matter.

J.

slickvic

I HAVE LABELED ALL MY WIRE, I'M READY TO ELIMINATE WIRES,
THERE'S A FEW WIRES ON THE THE PCM CONNECTORS THAT DON'T MAKE SENSE. I NEEDS TO KNOW, DO I NEED THESE WIRES?
1) A RED CONNECTOR
A7 FP RELAY CONTROL
A25 FUEL ENABLE SIGNAL
A32 VSS VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR
2) C CLEAR CONNECTOR
C22 TP SENSOR SIGNAL
C21 (TAN WIRE) IAT SENSOR SIGNAL
C25 ECT SENSOR SIGNAL
C15 PNP SIGNAL
3) D BLUE CONNECTOR
D7 BLANK (BUT HAS A WIRE) PPL
D21 BLANK (BUT HAS A WIRE) LT BLUE
D10 EVAP CANISTER ( CAN I USE THE ONE ON THE CAMARO)
D16 BLANK (BUT HAS A WIRE) PINK
D29 BLANK (BUT HAS A WIRE) TAN
4) B BLACK CONNECTOR
B2 LOW RESOLUTION SIGNAL RED/BLK
B8 VSS OUT PUT (CAN I USE THE ONE OUT OF THE CAMARO)
B11 BLANK (BUT HAS A WIRE) BRN/WHT
B13 SKIP SHIFT SOLENOID CONTROL MANUAL TRANS.
( I'M RUNNING A V8 T5 TRANNY)
B20 HIGH RESOLUTION SIGNAL PPL/WHT
B22 BLANK (BUT HAS A WIRE) TAN
B23 BLANK (BUT HAS A WIRE) PPL
B26 BLANK (BUT HAS A WIRE) ORG/BLK
B27 BLANK (BUT HAS A WIRE BRN
CAN I CUT ALL THERE WIRE OFF WITH OUT RUNNING INTO ANY PROBLEMS. I KNOW THAT THE AC,FUEL PUMP, AUTOMATIC TRANS WIRES CAN BE REMOVED. I JUST NEED TO BE SURE THAT WHAT I NEED TO DO.
THANKS VIC..

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Vic,
Im alittle confused... Are you working on wiring for an LT1? If so, I might not be much help. Im not recognizing those connector designations...or the "clear connector".

Give us some more details on what you you are doing. If possible, take a couple pictures of the connectors in question too. That always seems to help.

J.

slickvic

J. YEA IT'S A 94 LT1, THERE THE FOUR COLOR HEAD CONNECTOR THAT GOES ON THE PCM. ONE IS RED, BLUE,CLEAR AND BLACK.
COOL, I'LL TAKE SOME PICS. THANKS VIC