jagevileye21

iTrader: (3)

Update:

I changed from iron heads to aluminum heads. I made sure I torqued them to spec and in sequence. After doing that and topping all the fluids off the car started on the first attempt.

Problem:

When I hit the accelerator to rev the engine the RPM's stay up as if I still have my foot on the pedal and take longer then normal to come down. I discovered this after I went for a drive and barely stopped in time to avoid crossing traffic because the RPM's would not come down.

What I checked so far:

1. The throttle body cable is not binding or keeping the throttle blades open.

2. This happens both during idle and driving so I don't think it could be a transmission problem.

3. All my vacuum lines are connected.

The only thing I've changed since last time I drove it is the way I had my MSD box connected to ground. (Really shouldn't matter).

I have a new MAP, MAF, TPS and a cleaned IAC Sensor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jay
----------
I did discover that my intake elbow connecting to the TB was kinda loose.

Could it be possible that the TB was sucking in too much air and threw the computer off while it was in learn mode?

Thanks,
Jay

Blue1989RS

I would think it would be possible. If more air was getting in than the computer thought it would run lean, causing the computer to try to run it rich.(?). Just speculating. Probably wouldn't be a good thing either way.

Did you change from auto to manual?

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

A long shot...but maybe a vacuum leak at the intake manifold???

jagevileye21

iTrader: (3)

Blue,

I didn't change from auto to manual or anything like that.

Firebat,

I torqued the intake bolts to spec and in sequence so I don't think a problem would be there. At least I hope not.

Do you think its possible the TPS went bad.

After I check a few things I will let you guys know.

Thanks,
Jay

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

You did remember to put sealant on the front and rear sections of the intake manifold?

Klortho

Mine does this, it's actually part of the programming in the PCM. It has to do with keeping the RPM's up on the motor as you are slowing down to keep from bogging the motor down.

Do this, go down the road up to 20-30 mph, shift into neutral and come to a stop, as you slow down, you'll see the RPM's drop until you hit 0 mph and then it will drop to idle (or it should).

Mine will sit 1200-1500 rpm until I come to a complete stop then drop to 800 where the idle is programmed in.

Blue1989RS

My question was aimed with Klortho. The idle programming changes weither it is a auto/manual. But if you have an auto PCM, you should be the same as my LT1, and mine doesn't do that. Wish your problem was as simple as mine...

jagevileye21

iTrader: (3)

My problem seems to be fixed. I just disconnected the battery to reset the computer and after reconnecting it the problem when away. It wasn't the TPS because when I tested it I found no deadspots.

Firebat,

I remembered to put sealant on the front and rear of the intake, but why isn't there sometype of gasket we can use?

Klortho,

When I drove it around early I noticed that mine did the same exact thing until I was completey stopped. I guess since I haven't drove it in so long that it just seemed unnormal.

Blue,

Mine is probably alittle different also because I have a stall.

Quick question:

How did you guys get rid of your oil cooler? I called GM and they have some type of Adapter that allows you eliminate the lines and everything all together. The price is $129.99 though.

Thanks for all the help guys,
Jay

Klortho

My motor came from a Trans Am so it didn't have the oil cooler, however the Camaro motors I messed with, we unbolted the oil cooler, then put the oil filter adapter back on the motor, it's eliminated.

jagevileye21

iTrader: (3)

Here the problem...

I just came in from taking a drive the car seems to be running fine and not overheating. Until I come to a stop sign on this str8 away. So I take off and hit it just a bit, once I reach 45mph I take my foot off the accelerator. The RPM's start to drop then jump back up maybe 300RPM's and start to come back down.

In my opinion this does not seem to be normal. Could somebody help me out?

Thanks,
Jay

P.S

Other then that problem the car is running great.

eagle_eyes

iTrader: (3)

vacuum leaks can cause the RPM's to go up and down....not sure if this is so in your case.

jagevileye21

iTrader: (3)

After trying to take the car on the freeway the other day. It will not shift from 3rd to 4th gear.

I checked the trans fluid and it is in between the hot mark.

I tried to shift from 3rd to 4th manually but it doesn't shift that way either.

I did get my shift points changed during my PCM reprogram.

While driving the my tach is reading about 4K and when I hit the acceleration
it goes all the way up to about 6500RPM. When I did that I don't know if it shifted or just hit my rev limiter. I think my tach may be off.

Any help would be great

Thanks

Jay