dhirocz

iTrader: (2)

I'm now going over wiring schematics to hardwire my LT1 harness into the car and I want to delete the mess of the 4thgen chassis harness I had mated with it. Actually it's already gone. I ordered one of those 'stand alone' adapters to use with the harness but it hasnt shown up yet.

Most of the wires for the C210,c220 and c230 I've already found the corresponding wire for.

Anybody have a schematic on how I could wire in a fuel pump relay? I could get a generic relay and plug to wire it up without the mess... but I cant find the schematic for it!

BTW this is a '97 harness into an '86 IROC-Z. I have the gages wiring figured out, and I see there are no starter wires to deal with off the harness.

Also on the '97 harness, the pink wire on the c230 is different, it says it goes to power feed engine fuse 10, which I dont know if it's ignition or constant hot. On earlier models, it says ignition hot.

do the theft det/fuel enable feed wires need to be run even though I have a VATS deleted PCM?

the park neutral feed, is that supposed to be an input from the shifter or an output for something else?

unsure what to do with the output field service enable wire. I guess just rework my existing ALDL connector?

I see on the c207 there are 2 pins for fuel injector wires. how do these tie into the harness? I'm not seeing a wire for them so I'm assuming the 2 wires in the c207 are fused ignition hot wires that supply power while the PCM controls the ground?

I'm unclear on the alternator wires and the resistor. The resistor only goes off the red wire and not the brown wire going into the dash for the gage, correct?

On the bright side of things, I think I'll take the low oil level light and run it to where the upshift indicator is on the dash... best thing I could think to do with it other than drill a hole for an LED.

Sorry if this sounds dumb. Trying my best to figure out how I'm gonna wire this thing up so I can wrap up this project when I go home on leave. I'm in Iraq until next week

Klortho

Basic rule of thumb on GM color coded wires.

Pink or Pink/black = hot on run
Orange or orange/black = hot all the time.

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

I'm using www.shbox.com and the thirdgen.org tech articles(https://www.thirdgen.org/technical-articles) (1985 &1986 wiring diagrams) as references. They may differ slightly because of changes in wiring in different years but should be close.

http://92b4crs.tripod.com/86wiring/dia-pics/23-4.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/1995_pcm3.jpg

.

No, only needed if you have VATS.
http://92b4crs.tripod.com/86wiring/dia-pics/30-4.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_95.jpg

Its a pcm input from the shifter.
http://shbox.com/1/1995_pcm5.jpg

I don't know about your year but for 1995, i don't know what its use is. Its not needed for programming or monitoring the pcm in 1995. Basic tuning anyway. Its pin 6 on the DLC connector in 1995.
http://shbox.com/1/1995_pcm1.jpg


I dont know. C207 off of thirdgen harness?

There are at least 2 ways you can make it work. One is with a resistor and the other is by moving the that wire over one spot on the alternator connector.

option 1) I think for the resistor, you just have to go from the red wire to the resistor then to a switched 12 volt source.

option 2) Take the alternator connector apart(with the red wire) and move the red wire over one spot. Also have the red wire wired up to where the thirdgen alternator was wired up to the thirdgen gauge. No resistor needed. I can't remember which spot you move it to, but it ends up being the same spot as TPI's or 91-92 MPFI V6's.

If you really need an LED, you could buy an LED bulb replacement. A 194 led bulb, I think?