L98 serp brackets on LT1?
07-11-2006, 01:03 AM
#1
L98 serp brackets on LT1?
I searched
... I saw a pic on here once of GEN1 serpentine brackets on a LT1 but I can't find it now! If anyone has the pictures or knows what has to be done to make them fit, let me know. I have the L98 balancer on and the GM optispark blockoff plate, so that I can use the factory L98 crank pulley. I can notch the L98 brackets to fit but I really need to see the belt routing.
Later, Kevin
... I saw a pic on here once of GEN1 serpentine brackets on a LT1 but I can't find it now! If anyone has the pictures or knows what has to be done to make them fit, let me know. I have the L98 balancer on and the GM optispark blockoff plate, so that I can use the factory L98 crank pulley. I can notch the L98 brackets to fit but I really need to see the belt routing. Later, Kevin
07-11-2006, 08:36 AM
#2
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Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70 posi
You can't use the L98 balancer on an LT1 you have to use the LT1 hub/balancer because of the way that the crank is balanced and the LT1 crank is different than the gen1 crank, thus the reason you can't swap out the two even though they have the same part numbers. There was one guy who did it, but it turned out he had alot of machining to do for it to work. Or you saw the a/c relocation bracket that makes it look like it uses the original serp brackets.
CRANKS
350 - The crank for the LT1 looks just like the one in the late 350 and has the same casting number 14088526, but it’s balanced for the lightweight pistons that were installed in the LT1. Be sure to keep these cranks separate so they don’t end up in a regular 350, and don’t ever use a regular 350 crank in a LT1. In fact, if you are short of LT1 cranks and don’t have a balancing machine in your shop, you would be better off using a crank from a 305 instead of a 350 because it’s actually closer to the balance specs for the LT1 crank.
350 - The crank for the LT1 looks just like the one in the late 350 and has the same casting number 14088526, but it’s balanced for the lightweight pistons that were installed in the LT1. Be sure to keep these cranks separate so they don’t end up in a regular 350, and don’t ever use a regular 350 crank in a LT1. In fact, if you are short of LT1 cranks and don’t have a balancing machine in your shop, you would be better off using a crank from a 305 instead of a 350 because it’s actually closer to the balance specs for the LT1 crank.
HUB AND BALANCER
The balancer is a two-piece assembly with a pulley that bolts onto the hub. Separating the two made it easier to install the Optispark distributor on the assembly line and out in the field. The holes in the hub are offset, so the balancer only fits on it one way, but there’s no keyway in the hub to index the hub on the crank. This shouldn’t be a problem unless the damper was drilled at the factory to "trim" the final engine assembly.
If it was drilled a lot to compensate for an engine that was out of balance, you could end up with a shaker, depending on how everything stacked up with the remanufactured engine compared to the original engine. If you encounter a balance problem on a remanufactured LT1, try rotating the balancer assembly on the crank 90° at a time to see if it eliminates the problem.
The balancer is a two-piece assembly with a pulley that bolts onto the hub. Separating the two made it easier to install the Optispark distributor on the assembly line and out in the field. The holes in the hub are offset, so the balancer only fits on it one way, but there’s no keyway in the hub to index the hub on the crank. This shouldn’t be a problem unless the damper was drilled at the factory to "trim" the final engine assembly.
If it was drilled a lot to compensate for an engine that was out of balance, you could end up with a shaker, depending on how everything stacked up with the remanufactured engine compared to the original engine. If you encounter a balance problem on a remanufactured LT1, try rotating the balancer assembly on the crank 90° at a time to see if it eliminates the problem.
Last edited by Klortho; 07-11-2006 at 08:40 AM.
07-11-2006, 09:43 AM
#3
Hey Klortho, I'm using a ZZ4 forged crankshaft, 6 inch 4340 rods and a set of JE pistons that I already have. This set has already been balanced with my old fluiddamper. That is one of the reasons that I want to use the serpentine brackets that I have.
I'm buidling a hybrid of sorts. I am using the LT1 block, LT4 heads, LT4 intake, timing cover and water pump. But I am running my rotating assembly, distributor with the 165 ecm and I'm trying to use my accessories. I have aquired alot of parts from here and there, just trying to piece it all together.
Thanks anyway, Kevin
I'm buidling a hybrid of sorts. I am using the LT1 block, LT4 heads, LT4 intake, timing cover and water pump. But I am running my rotating assembly, distributor with the 165 ecm and I'm trying to use my accessories. I have aquired alot of parts from here and there, just trying to piece it all together.
Thanks anyway, Kevin
09-13-2006, 04:31 PM
#4
For anyone wanting to put thirdgen brackets on a LT1, if you have access to a grinder with a cutoff wheel, there's nothing to it. The belt routing is just the same as if you were running an electric water pump with a standard GEN1 block. All of the bolt holes but one on the A/C bracket line up perfectly. Only one hole to drill and tap on the head.
I will be posting pictures of the "in progress" work tomorrow.
Kevin
I will be posting pictures of the "in progress" work tomorrow.
Kevin
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