sound deadening material
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sound deadening material
while I was researching sound deadening materials such as dynamat I came across a lot of threads of people using frost king duct work insulation in there cars and it seems a lot of people like it and a lot hate the idea, so im wondering if anyone on here has done anything with making their cars quieter on the inside with either one and what the outcome was.
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Re: sound deadening material
I have it in my car now and it made a huge difference. I'm sure not as well as dynamat but a lot cheaper that's for sure. Most people that I have spoken with that hate the idea...is comparing it to people putting roofing tar in their cars.Not a good idea but does work very well. But smells like asphalt when the car is in the sun too long a was heavy as hell! But its a crappy civic that he enters into stereo contests.so who cares lolz. The frost wire is a thin layer of porous foam with an adhesive backing. I left the foil on top. Not sure if that made a difference or not but I'm sure it helped take up space Behind my door panels and made them super quite. The adhesive was easy to deal with because its not crazy sticky but holds well. I sprayed a few layers of rust stop on my floor boards before I put it down. Fearing if my tops leak the foam will hold the moisture against my floors.
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Re: sound deadening material
The below link describes multiple sound deadening testing and the outcome. So far, SDS tiles and Knu are at the top while Dyna Xtreme holds its own.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...d-testing.html
Personally, I use Dynamat Xtreme and B-Quiet (cheap price) in my car. You can get B-quiet from ebay...I'd recommend 50 sq ft for the whole car.
Most will agree that for "sound deadener" you only need 25% coverage to achieve measurable results. The SDS website is very informative and educational.
SDS
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
Knu
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...nd%20Deadening
B-Quiet
http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html
In terms of noise control, you need 100% coverage.
Some people have used home carpet underpadding, and neoprene pads with good results. Ensolite is another good product. It's fairly thin, inexpensive and is a proven product. Probably the best "bang for the buck" noise control out there.
If you have a bit more cash, Luxury Liner or Luxury Liner Pro are probably the best product available.
There are many threads with TGO members using lots of different products saying they work. Its up to you to decide. Personally, I like to go with a "proven" product as it will be in your car for a looong time.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...d-testing.html
Personally, I use Dynamat Xtreme and B-Quiet (cheap price) in my car. You can get B-quiet from ebay...I'd recommend 50 sq ft for the whole car.
Most will agree that for "sound deadener" you only need 25% coverage to achieve measurable results. The SDS website is very informative and educational.
SDS
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
Knu
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...nd%20Deadening
B-Quiet
http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html
In terms of noise control, you need 100% coverage.
Some people have used home carpet underpadding, and neoprene pads with good results. Ensolite is another good product. It's fairly thin, inexpensive and is a proven product. Probably the best "bang for the buck" noise control out there.
If you have a bit more cash, Luxury Liner or Luxury Liner Pro are probably the best product available.
There are many threads with TGO members using lots of different products saying they work. Its up to you to decide. Personally, I like to go with a "proven" product as it will be in your car for a looong time.
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Re: sound deadening material
Look at my sig. That sums it up. Asphalt based roofing/ducting garbage doesn't work nearly well enough to justify the minuscule cash outlay. Use less of a good product to achieve better results. The 100% coverage listed above is incorrect. I used to practice this as well, but its plain and simple wrong (i can link you to several studies if you'd like). There is a point of diminishing returns.. Besides that, drawing mat will NOT quiet the interior in any measurable way (other than psycoacoustics). All it does is turn vibration to low level heat. To actually quiet the inside of a car from engine/road noise, you're going to be looking for mass loaded vinyl mixed with closed cell foam.
To sum it up: don't waste your time and money using the incorrect product, or the incorrect application. Do it once, do it right.
To sum it up: don't waste your time and money using the incorrect product, or the incorrect application. Do it once, do it right.
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Re: sound deadening material
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
Read this if you ACTUALLY want to accomplish what you say you want. Otherwise.. do whatever I guess.
Read this if you ACTUALLY want to accomplish what you say you want. Otherwise.. do whatever I guess.
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Re: sound deadening material
Look at my sig. That sums it up. Asphalt based roofing/ducting garbage doesn't work nearly well enough to justify the minuscule cash outlay. Use less of a good product to achieve better results. The 100% coverage listed above is incorrect. I used to practice this as well, but its plain and simple wrong (i can link you to several studies if you'd like). There is a point of diminishing returns.. Besides that, drawing mat will NOT quiet the interior in any measurable way (other than psycoacoustics). All it does is turn vibration to low level heat. To actually quiet the inside of a car from engine/road noise, you're going to be looking for mass loaded vinyl mixed with closed cell foam.
To sum it up: don't waste your time and money using the incorrect product, or the incorrect application. Do it once, do it right.
To sum it up: don't waste your time and money using the incorrect product, or the incorrect application. Do it once, do it right.
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I also suggested reading sound deadener showdown
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Re: sound deadening material
Everyone should use whatever they like and can afford. I bought the stuff from Home Depot that is foil on one side and with close to a quarter inch of foam with an adhesive on the other side. The price is wonderful. No need to buy DynaMat for bragging rights.
I just used it on my door panels.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Kin...V516/100028603
I just used it on my door panels.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Kin...V516/100028603
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Re: sound deadening material
Ensolite should not be used 100%. its purpose is not to deaden sound, its to isolate panels to reduce rattles. That's what I was referring to. MLV, sure, you can 100% cover with it, however we recorded only a 1.6 db reduction in ambient noise vs 50% coverage (all other factors being equal). I stand by my statement. 1.6 is diminishing returns.
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Re: sound deadening material
Everyone should use whatever they like and can afford. I bought the stuff from Home Depot that is foil on one side and with close to a quarter inch of foam with an adhesive on the other side. The price is wonderful. No need to buy DynaMat for bragging rights.
I just used it on my door panels.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Kin...V516/100028603
I just used it on my door panels.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Kin...V516/100028603
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Re: sound deadening material
OK, I read the entire thread and the "scientific" test..... What I've gathered is one needs two products to effectively quite the passenger compartment of a vehicle from both sound and rattles ?
If "that stuff" is "garbage" what should one use to reduce rattles ?
Yenipenny, Are you satisfied with the results "that stuff" made in your passenger compartment noise ?
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Re: sound deadening material
To recap:
Dynamat and similar mass damping product only need partial coverage to stop sheet metal panels from transmitting vibrations into noise. The flatter and larger the panels, the more likely they will transmit noise which will benefit from damping.
Ensolite, neoprene and padding are for noise control and need full coverage.
Rattles come from parts shaking and banging into each other. Find the parts, and either 1) keep them from shaking... weld, glue, tape or strap (zip tie) them down. Or 2) make sure the parts have clearance to shake without banging on something (exhaust).
Read 87350IROC's stereo thread as a detailed example of mass damping and noise control.
Here is the money shot a zip tieing the power window motor to stop that source of rattles.
Dynamat and similar mass damping product only need partial coverage to stop sheet metal panels from transmitting vibrations into noise. The flatter and larger the panels, the more likely they will transmit noise which will benefit from damping.
Ensolite, neoprene and padding are for noise control and need full coverage.
Rattles come from parts shaking and banging into each other. Find the parts, and either 1) keep them from shaking... weld, glue, tape or strap (zip tie) them down. Or 2) make sure the parts have clearance to shake without banging on something (exhaust).
Read 87350IROC's stereo thread as a detailed example of mass damping and noise control.
Here is the money shot a zip tieing the power window motor to stop that source of rattles.
![](http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3594/3692593457_6961145b1b_b.jpg)
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Re: sound deadening material
[quote=
Yenipenny, Are you satisfied with the results "that stuff" made in your passenger compartment noise ?[/quote]
I'm more than happy. I researched and procrastinated several weeks before deciding "that stuff" was the best for my needs/desires.
Yenipenny, Are you satisfied with the results "that stuff" made in your passenger compartment noise ?[/quote]
I'm more than happy. I researched and procrastinated several weeks before deciding "that stuff" was the best for my needs/desires.
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Re: sound deadening material
Ensolite should not be used 100%. its purpose is not to deaden sound, its to isolate panels to reduce rattles. That's what I was referring to. MLV, sure, you can 100% cover with it, however we recorded only a 1.6 db reduction in ambient noise vs 50% coverage (all other factors being equal). I stand by my statement. 1.6 is diminishing returns.
You might want to chat with Jason at RAAMAt about his Ensolite recommendation of 100% coverage...just saying.
Also, you might want to post your findings on DIYMA. I'm sure they would find it very informative.
Bottom line is do some research and use what you can afford, and will work best for your application.
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Re: sound deadening material
So mojo....what's the material on the door skin? Looks exactly like frost wire.....with "useless foil"
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Re: sound deadening material
You'd have to ask 87350IROC to be certain, but I suspect it is RAAMMat, because it is then followed by Ensolite. RAAMMat is butyl rubber, that will stick to anything and everything. The foil isn't so useless, because it keeps anything from getting stuck on the deadener.
Deadener is useful to stop sheetmetal (large, flat, unsupported) from ringing as long. Read this if you haven't already: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/.
Deadener is useful to stop sheetmetal (large, flat, unsupported) from ringing as long. Read this if you haven't already: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/.
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Re: sound deadening material
Restrorob, for optimum results, you need a deadener plus noise barrier.
Your budget and desired results will determine what you use.
My first post has some useful links and product info
Your budget and desired results will determine what you use.
My first post has some useful links and product info
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#19
Re: sound deadening material
Duct insulation worked great on my 68 chevy pickup. It took two rolls to do fire wall, both doors, back wall and floor. Very happy with it just use spray adhesive for a stronger hold.
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