Rear Hatch Lock
10-18-2012 | 10:43 PM
#1
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From: Los Angeles
Car: 1991 RS/B4C clone
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt Street/Strip 700r4
Axle/Gears: 7.625 axle with 3.23 gears/TrueTrac
Rear Hatch Lock
I just got a new set of locks for my car, I had no trouble installing the two door tumblers but the rear hatch one is not very cooperative. There doesn't seem to be a way to remove the white part off the tumbler. Does the whole thing have to be replaced?
10-20-2012 | 03:57 PM
#3
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Re: Rear Hatch Lock
The cable pulls off of the lock HARD. You may need a screwdriver to pry the SOB off of there like I did when I replaced mine.
10-20-2012 | 04:26 PM
#4
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 478
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From: Los Angeles
Car: 1991 RS/B4C clone
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt Street/Strip 700r4
Axle/Gears: 7.625 axle with 3.23 gears/TrueTrac
Re: Rear Hatch Lock
Yeah, I was putting so much force on it I thought it was going to break. Is it just on really, really snug?
10-20-2012 | 05:39 PM
#5
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iTrader: (8)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,240
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Re: Rear Hatch Lock
It's VERY tight. I think I lost some skin the first time I pried the one off of the 87's hatch lock to replace the plain cable with the hatch release cable.
10-24-2012 | 12:11 AM
#6
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Re: Rear Hatch Lock
Yes it will require a flat-blade screwdriver to pop off the plastic clip retaining the manual release cable to the back of the lock cylinder. Just pry up one side, pull that side away from the lock, then pry the opposite side. Once both sides have been pried free from the slot molded into the lock cylinder, then the white connector will come off.
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