Pulled my seats and carpet today and found some rust under the driver side and passenger side. What steps should I take in removing this?

Driver Side: http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/...Nation/061.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/...Nation/052.jpg

Passenger Side:http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/...Nation/065.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/...Nation/063.jpg

 

Are there pin holes? hard to see the pictures from my phone, so I cant see if its just surface rust or if theres holes.

if just surface Id wire wheel it down and paint over it with POR-15, if theres pin holes like what Im dealing with, I plan to wheel it down, then use POR-15 putty/epoxy to fill in the holes, sand it down smooth, then paint it.


Im not pro, so maybe someone else can chime in with a better answer. Ill also be looking for advice here if you get any.

 

I did not see any pinholes. but I will have to check tomorrow in the day time.

We are in the same boat, I'm pretty new to doing body work. But I am willing to learn.

 

If you dont have pinholes Id wire brush it, then (personally) Id start stabbing it with a phillips screw driver. just because you dont have pinholes doesnt mean its only surface rust. Id rather have a screw driver go through now, then have a foot go through later.

As I said before, Iv read good things on the POR-15 putty. Put it down over the infected area, let it dry, sand it smooth, or close to it, then paint over it with POR-15 paint to prevent further issues. This is the rout Ill be taking when the time comes (probably over winter). Ill be posting about it and how it works in my project thread.

 

Having been through much worse, I can reassure you that it's not too hard. Buy the product of your choice and be sure to follow the product instructions. For example, some products will advise against removing the rust entirely. Rather, you scuff it up and the let the product do its job.

Here's what I did:

Scraped the floor with a plastic putty knife to remove old adhesives etc (specifically near the footwells).

Wiped the floor with degreaser and warm water.

Used spray cans of rust converter (which advised against full rust removal prior) and after a few days had gone by and the rust had been converted, so to speak, I then ground those areas flush.

Next, I scuffed the entire floor with a red 3M pad followed by a fresh batch of 3M seam sealer everywhere in the inside (where applicable).

I sprayed primer on the floor and to finish the job, I then used a special order Rustoleum paint (their version of Por 15 which also acts as a moisture prohibiter).

Since you will be attacking these areas, I strongly advise you to pull the hatch carpet as well. The trouble spot back there for me was between the spare tire and the passenger side wheel well.

Check out these pics of the job I did:

 

The end result of that looks really good!

Question, the wire heading back into the metal between where the seat were, fuel pump power wire?

 

WOW! That end result looks great. I definitely have a bunch of work to do.

Thanks for sharing this.

 

Funny, I just responded to this same question yesterday in another thread. I'm not a 100% but follow this current thread for a possible answer:


https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...et-wiring.html

 

That did look good. Can you clarify on grounded down everything flush? Your sprayed it let it dry then sanded it down?

Also what do you mean when you say scuffed?

Thanks...

 

scuffed with a scuff pad luis.

 

Rust that has formed is raised slightly higher than the rest of the floor. After a light pass with a wire wheel - still leaving some rust present - I washed the spots and sprayed them with converter (in photo 1 the dark areas had converter on them).

After a few days I sanded the spots - which weren't as high as before, but still a bit higher than non rusted areas - until they were smooth and level with the adjoining areas.

The dark red 3M pad is course, so when you move it across the floor, it lightly 'scuffs' the paint finish which assists top coat adhesion. Primer was sprayed on the 'converted' and/or bare spots and after one more quick vacuum and wipedown, paint was applied.