masonmills

hi i need to find a set or torx socets to take out my old set beats "i need male of course" if anyone bought some recently that were really nice, please let me know were u got them.

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iTrader: (15)

craftsman

forget the ones from home depot/lowes/autobone ect. they usually suck

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

You can get away with a cheap AutoZone set, but don't expect to be pulling a ton of torque on them. Me? I went through Sears and got the Lisle Torx Master Bit Set. It has the security bits for things like the fuel pressure regulator, the regular torx bits for whatever, and the External torx bits for the steering column. Cost about $45.

masonmills

i just need to pull enough torque to change my seat belts.

my82roc

iTrader: (101)

I got a stanley set of torx sockets at walmart.Cost was about 23 bucks.I had the lisle set before and didnt like them.Snapped a few trying to remove a tpi intake manifold.I also have a set from harbor freight,cost like 9.99.Should be perfect for removing seatbelts

Kevman

tekkitan

iTrader: (1)

I got mine from Sears. They aren't Craftsman (some other brand they had on the shelves) but seem to be great quality. They were so strong in fact that they stripped out a seatbelt bolt. Good times.

haps

iTrader: (4)

I bought a cheap set from Lowes for $17 (Kobalt?) I put them on the end of an burp gun to remove the seat belts and they worked fine.

BoomBoxx

Well you won't need a whole set for seat belts, just T47. It was really easy, took me a half hour to get the old ones out and the new ones in. And I'm a total noob. Just grease it up pretty good and let it sit awhile.

my82roc

iTrader: (101)

While a T-47 is the correct one to use,its usually not included in most torx sets ive seen.I use a T-50 and just hammer it in with the socket wrench.Works fine

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

I use a 48 piece MATCO Silver Eagle set pt number (SBS48SE), has everything you could need!!!

http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/to...&page=7&#60452

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Just get a Lisle T50, use something to tap it all the way into the bolt, and a lengthy breaker bar to break em loose, then usually they'll spin out by hand. When the Lisle bit starts to get worn, take it back and get another one, they're lifetime warranty just like Craftsman.

I've actually got both a Craftsman set and a Lisle bit, and I prefer to use the Lisle. After removing about 12 sets of seat belts, I've had to replace the bit 2 times, and it's due for a replacement again.

gregsz-28

iTrader: (1)

Stripping out bolts says nothing positive about their quality...

tekkitan

iTrader: (1)

Considering it stripped out a seatbelt bolt instead of snapping, I'd say it does.

gregsz-28

iTrader: (1)

No, it doesn't.
If you strip out a bolt, you were either using the tool improperly, the tool was damaged, the tool was of poor quality, the bolt was damaged, or of poor quality. A seatbelt bolt is not a poor quality bolt.
If you buy quality tools and use them properly, you won't damage your tools or the things you use them on.

tekkitan

iTrader: (1)

Yes, it does. The bolt was seized. After soaking it in PB Blaster and letting it sit, it was still seized. I know that the seat belt bolt is a high quality, strong bolt. That is common sense. If you use a tool on such a bolt, and the high strength bolt strips before the tool, it is common sense that the tool must be of a decent quality if it did not break before stripping the bolt.

I'm not sure why you are trying to argue common sense. Whether I misused the tool or not isn't what is being discussed. It is the strength of the tool.

gregsz-28

iTrader: (1)

Tekkitan, PM sent.

BTW, I use the Cman torx bits and haven't had any problems with them...
They're good quality, considering how inexpensive they are.

masonmills

yea i bought a pair from sear's on the net the same time i bought the new black seat belts (converting interior to black) and sadly i got my seatbelts today lmfao no torx in the mail yet lmao thirdgenranch shipped faster then sears.com LMFAO

Thirdgen Ranch

iTrader: (5)

The T47 socket I've been using for years now is just an Ace brand piece and it's lasted WAY longer than any other brand I've ever had. It still looks as good as the day it was new.

As you can probably guess, it's seen LOTS of use.

JTNKTZ

iTrader: (10)

I just use the duracrap ones from autozone because they have a life time warranty. I have only needed to take back 1 so far and it was my fault that i stripped it lol.

masonmills

got the ones from searers and had to use a ****ing breaker bar just to get the bolt lose, but now all my seaterbelts r changed WOOT

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Ive never broken any of my torx bits in the Advance Auto kit (<$30). Its got the standard torx (even the T47), several inverse (E series) and safety torx (the annoying dot)

Seatbelts use T47. Secret to never stripping out a seatbelt bolt is to use extensions and lots of them. I keep a pair of 10" extensions in the tool box. This lets me put my whole body weight into breaking them loose, not just my arm leverage on the bolt. Hammer the socket into the bolt to knock the rust/grit flat so you have proper tool engagement. Ive ripped the floor pan out from seized bolts but never stripped one this method

W.E.G.

I was able to get all my seat belt bolts loose today using a new $6 T-47 bit from Advance Auto, and applying the method stated above. The torx-bit shows a little wear from the effort, but I didn't strip any fasteners.

I was surprised at how sloppy the T-47 fit in the the bolt-recess. I would have definitely preferred a closer fit, but I guess I got by with it by being especially cognizant of making sure I had my weight bearing into it when I applied torque on the breaker-bar.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

the proper size is t500