That sounds like a mechanical problem with the physical latch assembly rather than anything relating to the remote release. I'd try having someone hold the key in the open position, and alternate between pushing down/lifting up on the decklid and hope the latch releases. Once you get it open, you can examine the latch assembly and look for what's keeping it from working.

I'm not going to go through the entire thread to see if it's already been mentioned, but the #1 problem is bad hatch shocks. People don't want to replace them for a variety of reasons, and eventually the weight of the glass on the latch/pulldown causes damage.

 

I've tried your recommendation and I'm still in the same spot. I really don't want to destroy my inner trunk panel, but that's what it's looking like imma have to do.

 

If you haven't gotten the hatch open yet, the rear trim panel is surprisingly flexible, so you're not likely to ruin it. Pull the passenger side of the panel away and curl it out/back just enough to get your arm/hand back there to access the hatch release cable, then pull the cable until it releases the hatch. It already seems to have been released, but it apparently didn't get fully released, so hopefully manually pulling the cable will fully release it.

Best to have someone outside to raise the hatch after you pop it loose, in case the struts don't raise it quickly enough. If no help, then push the hatch up from inside the car with your body or hands, depending upon which way you've maneuvered yourself into the rear space. Getting yourself back inside there will be the hardest part. I did this once in a 3rdgen convertible, so believe me, getting yourself in there IS the most difficult part of the task. Then once the hatch is open, you can troubleshoot the hatch motor/release mechanism, and you'll be able to properly remove the rear trim panel to get it back into shape, if it needs it. Moderator, lonsal, who posted a few posts up, is THE expert when it comes to the hatch motors. He rebuilds them and offers parts/kits to rebuild them. So if you have questions or need parts, contact him. He's awesome!

In the pic below, I've circled the motor's reversing switch, which you can push manually when the hatch is raised to test the motor. It's a small, black, plastic tab down in there, and you should be able to use your index finger to push-and-hold it down to activate the motor, if everything is working correctly, that is. Don't worry, nothing will bite your finger. It will be clear of the moving parts. Holding down the tab will lower the mechanism until the tab is released again. I've also placed a "check mark" where you'd pull on the release cable.


When you first popped the release button, you activated the open/close cycle. And because the open/close cycle didn't complete itself, the button won't pop again because, as far as it's concerned, the hatch is open. So the release button would seem to be fine, at this point in trying to determine what might be wrong, not broken, just won't work again until the hatch motor finishes its open/close cycle and is closed again. It's like pushing the button while the hatch is open--no click, nothing happens. Or pushing the button while the ignition is on--no click, nothing happens. Same for using the key. It's already been popped, but for some reason the hatch wasn't released.

On a side note, a few posts up it was suggested that the button won't release if the e-brake is NOT engaged, but that's not entirely true. The person to whom he was responding had even stated that his e-brake has not worked for years, but the release button has always worked. And I can concur, my e-brake hasn't worked since the 90s, and my hatch release button has always worked, and it still does--when the ignition is OFF. But having the ignition in the ON position will disable the release button, and that's when you'd need to set the e-brake to make the button work again--when the ignition is ON. So that's the safety feature. Otherwise, with the ignition OFF, it doesn't matter if the e-brake is set or not, at least, on my 87 5-speed, that is.

 

Some of these Fbodies must be different on the way the button works, I thought my button didn't work on my 89 T/A but I found this thread and read the post about the parking brake and sure enough I pulled the E-brake and the button worked.

 

Weak hatch struts got me used to not using the button anytime, so I'd turn off the car and use the key to open the hatch. And it just came to mind why I stopped using the button...

At the ballpark for my game one night, parked and turned off the car. My gear was in the back, so I popped the hatch with the button, but I didn't get back there in time to raise the hatch, and my fingers were under it when it reclosed. So there I was, fingers stuck under the hatch, shouting for help and laughing from embarrassment! When someone finally came to my rescue, my keys were in my pocket. I wasn't going to ask him to reach in and get them, so I directed him to the button, he pushed it, the hatch popped open, and I was able to pull my fingers free. Glad the e-brake did NOT have to be set!

 

Here is my problem and troubleshooting (1991 Camaro Z28, 305 TPI, 5-speed manual):

1. Hatch switch will not release the rear hatch.
2. Replaced switch - did not fix it.
3. Replaced relay under center console by e-brake - did not fix it.
4. Changed connector to e-brake (similar to connectors for hatch switch) and hooked it up - did not fix it but 'brake' light comes on when I use the hatch switch.

I replaced the e-brake with a different model (hard plastic handle instead of leather handle since hard to find replacement handle and button). E-brake cable needs to be adjusted (shortened quite a bit) to lock rear wheels but that should not effect my issue. My e-brake works by making connection with metal piece connected to light brown wire with white stripe when e-brake is 'off' and does not make connection when e-brake is 'on'.

I have after market keyless entry (have had on car for over 10 years and used to work fine to pop hatch with switch). Keyless entry hooks to hatch connectors to dark brown wire and kind of a light brown with white stripe wire (same as wire to the e-brake).
Hatch will open with key and motor releases fine and pulls down fine. Door locks work fine with keyless entry. Unhooking keyless entry to hatch wires made no difference.

Any suggestions? Is there another relay I should replace?

Thanks in advance.

 

Is the ground wire present? There should be a ground wire going from the 10mm screw mounting the solenoid release to the body ground location. If missing the solenoid won't fire because it is electrically isolated from ground by the guides.

Lon

 

I'll have to check the ground wire this afternoon and get back with you. The solenoid I bought does not have guides to attach to the mount that the solenoid I replaced slid into (I'm assuming you are referring to the solenoid below the center console). I'll try and take some pictures as well to see if that helps.

 

Let's rewind slightly. There were 2 versions of pull-down used for 91. My instructions applied to the early style which has a metal frame where it attached to the car body. The later version has a tan colored plastic frame. Which style do you have?

Lon

 

Are you talking about the pull down motor or the solenoid?

My solenoid near the parking brake is plastic. The one I replaced had grooves on one side so it would slide onto a plastic piece to hold into place. The new one I have does not have the grooves. I'll take a picture of everything this afternoon and submit.

 

[QUOTE=hassgrant;6476781]Are you talking about the pull down motor or the solenoid?

Picture 1: The wires my thumb are on that go into a blue wire connector: 1) red - from keyless entry; 2) light tan with white stripe - goes to hatch switch. Just above my thumb is a brown wire and pink wire going into a blue wire connector: 1) brown wire - goes to hatch switch; 2) pink wire goes to keyless entry.

Picture 2: This tan wire with white stripe goes to my e-brake (this wire is the same colors as the wire that goes to the hatch switch but not sure if or where they are connected as they go into a factory bundle near the solenoid.

Picture 3: Connection to the e-brake (the wire does not match the wire in Picture 2 as I had to buy this connector after the fact and spliced into the tan wire with white stripe in Picture 2 - you can see the wire connector in Picture 2)

Picture 4: Solenoid I replaced. I think the plastic slide the old solenoid attached to is just below and mostly covered by the black vinyl (just left of the black wire in the picture).


Picture 1

Picture 2

Picture 3

Picture 4

 

Take a photo of the Silver colored solenoid hatch release that attaches to the latch assembly.

 

See pics below (not sure what all you wanted to see so I did overkill)

 

Thanks for the photos. I just solved your problem. Attach a ground wire from the 10mm screw attaching the solenoid to the body ground location below the pull-down unit. That will solve your problem. Currently you only have the +12v black wire plugged into the solenoid. No ground to the solenoid, therefore it won't fire. As I mentioned previously the entire latch assy including the solenoid is isolated from ground by the guides in the track.

Lon

 

Your ground wire is present. You just need to move it from under the 13mm bolt to the 10mm screw that mounts the solenoid to the latch assembly as shown.

 

Lon,

Thank you for looking. I'll do as you suggested. I must have failed to do that when I replaced the hatch motor years ago. The car used to be my daily driver until I wrecked it in 2010. Then life got in the way and the car has been garage kept and been more of a hobby. It still runs but it's not trust worthy and the front end (hood, fenders, bumper and spoiler) needs to be replaced (grabbed those pieces from a junk car 10 years ago just to get the car drive able). I have just about completed a total interior custom job. I am hoping to get new engine and transmission after new year and upgrade the brakes. At least make it a weekend driver.

I'll let you know if your suggestion worked.

 

Ordered new led bulbs for rear, so I will install those and move the ground wire at the same time. Bulbs should be in Sunday so hope to update you then.

 

Lon,

Well you were correct. That fixed it.

One minor mod I did was cut the wire to the e-brake and just grounded that wire. The connection to the e-brake was iffy anyway and only completed the ground in order to pop the hatch. I just have to be careful not to pop it while driving.

Thanks again!

 

Would this cause for my radio to stop working as well?? I had a family mechanic try to wire my third break light and don’t know if he shorted something or blew a fuse or relay