Spraying the interior. Ahh crap I screwed up.
#1
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Spraying the interior. Ahh crap I screwed up.
I removed all my interior panels to srpay them down with satin black Krylon fusion. I didn't care for the beige at all.
Now I am noticing that with all the panels back in the car and a 2 - 3 week cure time, the paint seems to scratch off relatively easy with a moderate amount of pressure. I know the car has been armor-alled in the past, and I was even found guilty of turtle-waxing it a few weeks before I did the spray.
Before I sprayed the panels I thoroughly sprayed them down with a garden hose, scrubbed them with a mixture of dish detergent and plain water using a common car wash scrubbie, and dried them with a hairdryer. Unfortunately I did not find out that this was inadequate until it was too late made apparent by fisheyes in the paint and several coats to get it to take in these areas.
I believe it was the silicone concoction causing it to bond so badly because there was one panel out of all of them that fisheyed so bad, I could not get a proper spray and was forced to install all the panels back into the car leaving this one behind to be stripped and redone.
I started the strip using mineral spirits styled paint thinner, but this wasn't enough so I switched my methods to applying acetone to a steel wool pad and scrubbing the paint off and making sure it evaporated quickly before it had a chance to begin melting and deforming the plastic. Now, not even 2 weeks later, this panel is not yet fully cured as I can still smell the famous uncured paint scent eminating from it, but I CANNOT scratch or chip the paint by any means short of dragging a knife across it. I'm more liable to break a nail than I am to chip the paint. Even supplying a generous amount of pressure sufficient enough to bend and warp a fingernail the paint refuses to release It's bond. I am firmly convinced that the acetone annihilated the silicone residue and allowed this particular panel to form a proper bond with the fusion.
Dear god I'm going to have to remove EVERY SINGLE PANEL and redo them AGAIN! 6 cans of spraypaint down the drain. ARGH!!!
Now I am noticing that with all the panels back in the car and a 2 - 3 week cure time, the paint seems to scratch off relatively easy with a moderate amount of pressure. I know the car has been armor-alled in the past, and I was even found guilty of turtle-waxing it a few weeks before I did the spray.
Before I sprayed the panels I thoroughly sprayed them down with a garden hose, scrubbed them with a mixture of dish detergent and plain water using a common car wash scrubbie, and dried them with a hairdryer. Unfortunately I did not find out that this was inadequate until it was too late made apparent by fisheyes in the paint and several coats to get it to take in these areas.
I believe it was the silicone concoction causing it to bond so badly because there was one panel out of all of them that fisheyed so bad, I could not get a proper spray and was forced to install all the panels back into the car leaving this one behind to be stripped and redone.
I started the strip using mineral spirits styled paint thinner, but this wasn't enough so I switched my methods to applying acetone to a steel wool pad and scrubbing the paint off and making sure it evaporated quickly before it had a chance to begin melting and deforming the plastic. Now, not even 2 weeks later, this panel is not yet fully cured as I can still smell the famous uncured paint scent eminating from it, but I CANNOT scratch or chip the paint by any means short of dragging a knife across it. I'm more liable to break a nail than I am to chip the paint. Even supplying a generous amount of pressure sufficient enough to bend and warp a fingernail the paint refuses to release It's bond. I am firmly convinced that the acetone annihilated the silicone residue and allowed this particular panel to form a proper bond with the fusion.
Dear god I'm going to have to remove EVERY SINGLE PANEL and redo them AGAIN! 6 cans of spraypaint down the drain. ARGH!!!
#2
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Alabama
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 87 Silver Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Re: Spraying the interior. Ahh crap I screwed up.
I removed all my interior panels to srpay them down with satin black Krylon fusion. I didn't care for the beige at all.
Now I am noticing that with all the panels back in the car and a 2 - 3 week cure time, the paint seems to scratch off relatively easy with a moderate amount of pressure. I know the car has been armor-alled in the past, and I was even found guilty of turtle-waxing it a few weeks before I did the spray.
Before I sprayed the panels I thoroughly sprayed them down with a garden hose, scrubbed them with a mixture of dish detergent and plain water using a common car wash scrubbie, and dried them with a hairdryer. Unfortunately I did not find out that this was inadequate until it was too late made apparent by fisheyes in the paint and several coats to get it to take in these areas.
I believe it was the silicone concoction causing it to bond so badly because there was one panel out of all of them that fisheyed so bad, I could not get a proper spray and was forced to install all the panels back into the car leaving this one behind to be stripped and redone.
I started the strip using mineral spirits styled paint thinner, but this wasn't enough so I switched my methods to applying acetone to a steel wool pad and scrubbing the paint off and making sure it evaporated quickly before it had a chance to begin melting and deforming the plastic. Now, not even 2 weeks later, this panel is not yet fully cured as I can still smell the famous uncured paint scent eminating from it, but I CANNOT scratch or chip the paint by any means short of dragging a knife across it. I'm more liable to break a nail than I am to chip the paint. Even supplying a generous amount of pressure sufficient enough to bend and warp a fingernail the paint refuses to release It's bond. I am firmly convinced that the acetone annihilated the silicone residue and allowed this particular panel to form a proper bond with the fusion.
Dear god I'm going to have to remove EVERY SINGLE PANEL and redo them AGAIN! 6 cans of spraypaint down the drain. ARGH!!!
Now I am noticing that with all the panels back in the car and a 2 - 3 week cure time, the paint seems to scratch off relatively easy with a moderate amount of pressure. I know the car has been armor-alled in the past, and I was even found guilty of turtle-waxing it a few weeks before I did the spray.
Before I sprayed the panels I thoroughly sprayed them down with a garden hose, scrubbed them with a mixture of dish detergent and plain water using a common car wash scrubbie, and dried them with a hairdryer. Unfortunately I did not find out that this was inadequate until it was too late made apparent by fisheyes in the paint and several coats to get it to take in these areas.
I believe it was the silicone concoction causing it to bond so badly because there was one panel out of all of them that fisheyed so bad, I could not get a proper spray and was forced to install all the panels back into the car leaving this one behind to be stripped and redone.
I started the strip using mineral spirits styled paint thinner, but this wasn't enough so I switched my methods to applying acetone to a steel wool pad and scrubbing the paint off and making sure it evaporated quickly before it had a chance to begin melting and deforming the plastic. Now, not even 2 weeks later, this panel is not yet fully cured as I can still smell the famous uncured paint scent eminating from it, but I CANNOT scratch or chip the paint by any means short of dragging a knife across it. I'm more liable to break a nail than I am to chip the paint. Even supplying a generous amount of pressure sufficient enough to bend and warp a fingernail the paint refuses to release It's bond. I am firmly convinced that the acetone annihilated the silicone residue and allowed this particular panel to form a proper bond with the fusion.
Dear god I'm going to have to remove EVERY SINGLE PANEL and redo them AGAIN! 6 cans of spraypaint down the drain. ARGH!!!
#3
Re: Spraying the interior. Ahh crap I screwed up.
I just watched Stacey David of Gearz (and previous Trucks fame) use TriSodiumPhosphate (can buy at hardware store) to clean plastics... He showed how years of Armor all and other cleaners, plus the mold release has got to be cleaned off first... then use Duplicolor Plastic and Vinyl paint (and a Duplicolor Adhesion promoter first)....
Raf
Raf
#4
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Re: Spraying the interior. Ahh crap I screwed up.
Sanding will only increase your problem 10 fold, as the silicone residue from armor-all/turtlewax would be embeded into the scratches.
#5
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Alabama
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 87 Silver Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Re: Spraying the interior. Ahh crap I screwed up.
[quote=FireDemonSiC;3767350]Fusion was designed for plastics so that no primer is needed. It bonds to plastic. That's why they call it fusion.
quote]
did it work for you?
i guess no help is needed then
quote]
did it work for you?
i guess no help is needed then
#6
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Re: Spraying the interior. Ahh crap I screwed up.
It worked in the one application where all silicone residue was stripped first, yes.
So technically, I have the recipe to make it work for all the other panels.
So technically, I have the recipe to make it work for all the other panels.
#7
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Wonder Lake
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 chevy camaro iroc-z28 305 h.o.
Engine: 305 high output
Transmission: 700r4
Re: Spraying the interior. Ahh crap I screwed up.
[quote=LoganTA;3767357]hey logan t a, i have a good technical question for you, where are my t top weather strips i ordered from you. i want my weather strips or my money back,i kno you have been online, and i know you have gotten my messages, p m me immediatly with you decision, parts or money
Trending Topics
#8
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Re: Spraying the interior. Ahh crap I screwed up.
[quote=87cmroiroc305ho;3787523] Well, that's one way to call someone out
hey logan t a, i have a good technical question for you, where are my t top weather strips i ordered from you. i want my weather strips or my money back,i kno you have been online, and i know you have gotten my messages, p m me immediatly with you decision, parts or money
#9
Re: Spraying the interior. Ahh crap I screwed up.
The trick to panting interior pieces in my experience is clean the crap out of it, then clean again really really really good. Then once done doing that and you think its ready for paint....clean it 2 more times really well. You have to get all the cleaner products and if a smokers car all that tar build up off it or it will never stick well. I would also let the parts sit at least for a week before putting them back into the car as well.
Also stay away from rattle can products and buy a pint of something like Duponts interior paint that you need to spray with a gun.
Also stay away from rattle can products and buy a pint of something like Duponts interior paint that you need to spray with a gun.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: SF bay area
Posts: 722
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 86 Camaro iroc-z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Re: Spraying the interior. Ahh crap I screwed up.
krylon fusion paint is just a fancy pants label on a good ole regular can of krylon, sure it has acrylic enamel, but every spray paint does. what you need to do is by tsp in powder form, mix it up with water, then dry everything, prime it, then paint it. and by the way satin wont work very well seeing as how difficult itll be to get stains off.
#11
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: CT
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: Used to drive a camaro
Re: Spraying the interior. Ahh crap I screwed up.
The only luck I've had with spraying interior plastics is the 3 stage setup from SEM and you only use the 3 stages AFTER you clean the plastics.
#12
Supreme Member
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: West Jefferson, OH
Posts: 1,289
Received 42 Likes
on
35 Posts
Car: basic third gens
Engine: that I like
Transmission: to restore
Axle/Gears: and enjoy
Re: Spraying the interior. Ahh crap I screwed up.
I used the krylon fusion on the window switch pod of my Chevy Celebrity and it has yet to scratch/wear off. Where it is mounted, my knee rubs against it all of the time. I don't remember what I did for prep work except it wasn't much, and it's been over two years.
#13
Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: hudson valley, NY
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 Z28 with iroc-z Package no.3
Engine: 350TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
Re: Spraying the interior. Ahh crap I screwed up.
as u can see from my pictures im working on a 100 point show car(and trying not to go broke) and thats what buying every interior panel needed to switch colors can do to you. so i painted me entire tan interior to black with dupont vinyl paint and it looks amazing the only prep work i did was soak it with goof off spray. then wipe it down with rubbing alcohol and i managed to get a nice uniformed smooth drip free finsih using a cardboard box as a prop and doing this all inside a 40 degree oil company garage over the winter. i have only one panel where the paint is rubbing off and thats cause my sneakers scuff it up when i get out of the car. dupont interior paint worked for me
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post