Celticsfan

iTrader: (1)

Well i ripped out my carpet today and noticed that i need to cut out parts of the floorboard then weld in some sheet metal, when that is all set should i get some por-15 then go ahead and put the new carpet in?
Thanks guys

i just noticed this, its kind of expensive (for me anyway)
do i need both of these:

http://www.por15.com/bPOR-15sup-sup-...entive-Paint-b

http://www.por15.com/s.nl/it.A/id.14...&category=-101 ?

Jay

iTrader: (2)

You would only need the first one since it's going under the carpet.

I've used POR-15 before and wouldn't do it again. I wasn't all that impressed with it, especially over old paint. I recently started using Rust Bullet and prefer that. It seems a lot easier to work with and more durable.
http://www.rustbullet.com/ProductCar...&idproduct=392
1 quart should be enough to cover the whole floor.

ntomsheck

iTrader: (1)

Lol everyone has these terrible experiences with POR-15. You came out and said it. You used it over old paint. I'm not dissing you or anything man, I'm just saying, POR-15 aint worth crud on old paint or poorly prepared surfaces. I use POR-15 religiously on my and have only had good luck with it. Having a properly prepared surface is the key. I sandblast it. I was able to smack it with a hammer and not even put a tiny chip in it except for one exceptionally hard hit.

Here's a little trick to tell if your POR-15 is going to stick. Brush it on a super smooth surface, you can see whatever is underneath the POR-15 through the brush strokes. It's basically just pushing it around on smooth surfaces. Those are the kind that wont stick. But if you brush it on a sandblast surface (using actual sand, or coal slag) then it stays where it is, and you'd be hard pressed to brush it off while it's wet. I've used their black and their gray. Black is good for smaller areas (such as weatherstripping channels) and I prefer the gray on larger surfaces. I just looks really good on the floor pans, especially against white sheet metal. You can tell it's been treated, but it doesn't stand out against the white paint does like black would.

Honestly though, I'm not closed minded. If I had a can of rust bullet, I'd try it too and compare it to POR-15. But right now, I have a quart of POR-15 gray sitting in my fridge, so I'm not going to go out and buy rust bullet.

Celticsfan - when you put new peices of sheetmetal in, make sure you put corrugations in if you remove corrugated metal. Those are key in a lot of structural integrity laterally

Celticsfan

iTrader: (1)

what does corrugations mean? excuse my ignorance

and i dont have the means to prep the surface like sand blasting, and dont have a ton of time, so what would you reccomend for prepping and what product should i use? out of the 2 i linked?

thanks

oh and does anyone know about how much it will cost for some 16 gauge sheet metal from HD? I dont need a ton just for the two back floor pans not very big SA

ntomsheck

iTrader: (1)

Stick with these three. Same stuff that comes in the starter kit. You could get the starter kit yourself if you don't plan on doing the whole interior of your car. A little goes a surprisingly long way.

http://www.por15.com/bPOR-15sup-sup-...entive-Paint-b

http://www.por15.com/s.nl/it.A/id.12...2&category=139

http://www.por15.com/s.nl/it.A/id.12...2&category=139

BTW, You can buy a sandblaster from home depot for less than $20. It's called a bucket sandblaster. Then get coal slag media = $3-10 for a 50lb bag.

You do NOT need a giant air compressor. I used a 15gallon compressor on the entire floor of my car.

As for corrugations, those are the little channels that are stamped into the sheet metal. There's usually 3 that run into the drainage holes. Those don't aid in draining fluid to the holes, they keep your feet from making a bowl in the floor when you get in and out of the car. To make those, just get a short section of 1/2" square steel tubing and pound the corrugations into the sheet metal before welding it in.

To pound the corrugations in, you can do one of two things:

Put the sheetmetal over an open vice and put the bar over the open space, so when you pound down, it'll form a channel from the jaws of the vice.

or

just lay the bar on the ground and place the sheetmetal over it where you want the channels to be. Then pound around it to form them. Don't heat it, you'll warp it.

Celticsfan

iTrader: (1)

well the sandblaster is out of the question, just dont have the money especially with school starting now...i really need all those cleaners then coat it?

ill check on the corrugations but i dont think there were any

1982TA

iTrader: (1)

read the instructions for Por 15 on their site...it's to be used DIRECTLY OVER RUST, NOT paint. I've used this plenty of times and it is one of, if not the best product to PREVENT and STOP rust.

firebirdjosh

iTrader: (1)

Neither. Do it right or don't bother since it won't work properly.

86NiteRider

iTrader: (10)

My body shop guy explained to me that those corrugulation(sp) indentations in the metal are also for strength. They allow the metal to spread out the strength of the area. If you look atall cars that have large metal areas like the trunk they have these indents as well so I think if you are going to use sheet metal you will need to have some form of these indents in it.

Personally this winter I am replacing my floor but I will put the actual floorboards in (about ($250.00) instead of doing a patch job. I have a hole the size of a softball on the driverside and is the only rust of note on my '92. I want the strength that an entire board will provide. I will then use the opportunity to put some POR-15 down, some sound deadner and new carpet although I really don't need new carpet, why not? But my car is close to mint and I plan on keeping it a long time. I guess it depends on your goals but as one poster said you might as well do it right.

fireeagle43

I just got done welding in patch panels in my '89 and turned around and laid down 2 coats of spray/ roll-on truck bed coating. It really knocked down on the tinny sound inside the car when it was stripped down, made a nice sound deadner and figure if it'll stand up having crap thown on it in a pick up, it'll survive under the carpet.

Only cost $50 to do the 2 layers, so not that bad as far as price.

Tmic87TPI

iTrader: (3)

I think that sounds like a pretty good idea, I have to do 2 patches in my floors soon too, so I also need to know what to use to cover the metal.

and off topic, celticsfan, my car isnt ready for any meets yet, hopefully next year Ill attend some meets though.

fireeagle43

Once I was done welding, I just grounded the welds down, primered it, and laid the coating down. Nothing special in the way of prep.

Toyota h8r

What me and a buddy did on his 95 trans am to fix floor pans was cheap and inexpensive. We took a grinder to rusted area, then cleaned it with degreaser. After that, we sealed it with por-15, following that was a generous amount of short length fiberglass filler.(like bondo but fiberglass in a can). Then we por-15 over that and sanded it smooth. Looks just like new and is sealed up solid. I found out that water gets up into the control arm pockets and gets in between the floor boards and a body stiffener. That rots the floor out and looks like the t-tops were leaking. I recommend all 3rd gen and 4th gen owners to take their control arms out and por-15 in the pockets if you havent yet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

Celticsfan

iTrader: (1)

i kind of half-assed it, we knocked out the bad parts, got some sheet metal from home depot and pop riveted it, but its better than what i had before, then ill get some silicone and go crazy around the corners, clean the metal and coat it with por-15, ill eventually do the undercarriage too, but im not driving this winter so i shouldd be ok.

Jay

iTrader: (2)

I bought the starter kit and followed the instructions exactly. Still was not impressed with how it has held up, plus the fact that you still have to top coat it if it sees sunlight. I did it on the bare metal of the K member.

The not sticking to old paint was just another reason why I was not happy with it. For certain areas like radiator support bottom and battery box you have to clean off every spec of paint which in some areas like the indentations etc is not easy.

The fact that you need to do all that prep to make it work is another reason I won't go back. With Rust Bullet you just get all the scale rust off use some regular cleaner degreaser and rough up any old paint and it sticks. Just a lot easier in my opinion. Prices are comparable to POR-15.

If you're happy with the results you've gotten with POR-15.. excellent Just personal preference.

Auto Mission

I have used POR-15 on a frame,and had to cut out a piece after theapplication. I used the plasma cutter to cut the frame and the POR-15 did not melt, peel or give way. After using the plasma cutter, I had to hit the piece with a hammer to break it loose. Again, the POR15 held up real nice. I am a believer, it sticks best to rust, and does not stick to bare metal very good. Now we just knock off the dirt and scales and paint it on. What a product!!

ntomsheck

iTrader: (1)

Well then as you can people either have good or bad experiences with POR-15. There is no in between. Basically, don't buy what people say. Buy a small amount of each competitor and test for yourself. Everyone will have a different opinion and experience. POR-15 works for me, Rust bullet works for Jay, he's not wrong, I'm not wrong. In the end anyway, it's not about what you used or how much you spent, it's about the car.

Celticsfan

iTrader: (1)

heres a pic of what we did, ill be coating it within the next few days, not sure what ill be using yet

jimdutro

iTrader: (1)

The best advice I can give you from someone who has used Por 15 products for over 15 years is that you need to follow the directions to the letter for it to work properly. Most of the people who do not like it do not follow the directions and then they bad-mouth the product. The floors in my `74 El Camino, that was the first car I used Por products on, still looks like I just finished it. It is a great product, the only one I have had success with but you have to read and understand the directions and follow them. If there is a better product that is easier to use, I am more than willing to try it out, I don`t know of any.

Celticsfan

iTrader: (1)

i think im going to go with rust bullet, from what ive heard it just seems easier, plus you dont have to do as much prep, and the surface is totally different some is rusty some is still painted fine....ill prolly go with that but who knows...all i know is i have get that coated, put new padding in/carpet, new seat belts and the seats in by next wed (school), not drivin the geo...haha

jimdutro

iTrader: (1)

Celticsfan, please let me know how "rust bullet" works for you. I need to check the floors in my Iroc in a few months and repair if necessary.