whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Finshed up the gauge cluster today and got it all wired up. Now sitting in the car is just teasing me BAD to drive it! Heres a few pics of it completed.

Gauge harness done


Found these awesome little plugs at radio shack. They are available in a bunch of different pin counts and come seperated so that you assemble them. I love the factory look that they give it, and it's great being able to remove the gauge cluster with a sigle plug! They also cost me a whopping $2.50 per plug (male and female). Can't beat that!




And here they are all lit. They all dim with the factory **** and look great, even in the light as you can see. It was pretty bright in my garage when I snapped the pic.


Only issue is that I have a deffective volt gauge so I need to return it to autometer. If you look at the needle where it comes out of the gauge face, you can see that it's rubbing on the face where as all the other ones are centered perfectly. If I tap on the lens a few times, it jumps up until it hits 13.5 volts where it should be. Damn "made in china" parts these days! My fuel pressure gauge was also only showing 28 PSI so I need to check the gas because I might be almost empty...if not, I need to look at that one. I tested it not even 8 months ago and the fuel pressure showed 58 PSI which is on the spot for an LSx. All other gauges work as they should which is great!

hotrodln

looks good! did autometer give you the wire harness and connector or did you get that on your own.......i still have all my stock gauges, but i'm thinking about changing them......

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

I made the harness myself out of all the extra wire left over from my chassis harness. I wanted a more custom fit than a universal harness. Painless offers a universal pre-wired gauge harness for a dash, but the spacing didn't look like it would work with my layout, and for 100$ they can keep it! I made mine for about $15.

91 Droptop

Looks slick, very custom but yet kind of what the car should have come with

86blackbetty

iTrader: (2)

OHHHH man that looks freaking awesome...!!!

scorp88

SUBSCRIBED.. IMPRESSED...
Hey, I've got a question though, did you use same paint gun for primer and base? Which nuzzle? Gauge work is great too. I don't are you planning on putting those "check you c***p" lights on?

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

The only part I actually painted was the engine bay, and I did use the same gun for primer and base. I primed the entire body of the car myself as well with the same gun. The nozzle wasn't changed. I just had to slightly thin out the primer a bit more so it sprayed nicely. I can't remember the exact tip size on the spray gun and it's at a freinds house so I can't even check it for you!

And for the lights, do you mean the "check engine" light? I will have one in the dash along with the turn signals and brights indicators. Anyways, thanks for the compliments!

scorp88

Cool, thanks!!

dctrouant1995

Is the trim ring on the gauges touching the steering column? I can't tell but it looks really close. But awesome job on the gauges, does look like it was supposed to be that way from factory. definitely one of the best jobs I've seen. Good work

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Thanks man! And no, the trim ring doesn't touch. It's close though, lol. No other way to really do it though. Visibility is great to all the gauges as well except for the 2 smaller gauges on the left of the cluster. You have to move your head slightly to see the whole gauge, but one is volts and the other is fuel level....both of which are not very important to moniter all the time. I'm happy with it.

Mike92Firebird

iTrader: (3)

Looking really great man!

dctrouant1995

Dang thats sweet, yea I'll agree don't really need the fuel gauge, you will know when its empty lol. Same for the volt gauge, you will know when the battery is dead lol. But great job on it, may have to try this one lol

soarestransam

hey dude glad to see its coming along so dang good i recently started on my restore as well so far i got the rear end down an the exhaust out soon ill have the fuel tank down tomorrow i just wanted to ask you where did u get that black paint i remember watching ur vids up on youtube an you were saying that it is rust resistence i want to do this as well

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Do you mean the herculiner that I used on the underside? I bought it at my local advance auto parts. I think it was around $75 for a gallon but the stuff is thick and protects the underside like nothing else. Glad to here that your getting your project going as well. Let me know how it goes as you progress on it!

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Finished up a few small things on the gauge cluster today. Got the LED's for the turn signals, brights indicator, and check engine light all installed. also bolted my trunk popper and defroster switches back on, so it's completely done now.

I noticed my fuel pressure gauge was showing only 8 PSI of pressure too. After being on the phone with autometer 3 times and doing random voltage tests, I found out the sending unit is no good. Figures that thats the one gauge that I didn't buy brand new. The sending unit for it is $100....I'm not looking forward to having to replace that. Also found out that autometer CAN'T actually re-ohm my fuel level gauge to the LS1 tank sending unit. Wish they told me that the first time I called... Anyways, looks like now that I have a 0-90 ohm fuel level gauges, I have to drop the tank again and do the grand prix sending unit swap. Fun fun....sometimes building a car SUCKS! But I guess it's a small curveball compared to things that could have gone wrong. Enough of my ranting though...heres the completed gauge cluster.

Heres where the check engine light is mounted. There used to be an annoying flashing red alarm light here so it was the perfect spot for it.


Heres the turn signal and brights LED's


And the whole thing. Can't wait to get it in tomorrow and make sure all the flashers work!

scottmoyer

Be sure to paint those screws first! They look rusty and on a car being completely new, that just doesn't look right.

1SICK90RS

i like it!

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Oh I plan on it. I mentioned in an earlier post that I still had to paint them because they started to rust after sitting in my garage for a week. Cheap crap screws! Should have got SS.

91 Droptop

I went to Camaro central and got the entire screw set for thr interior for like $35, I figured with all the work I was doing it would be worth it.

tylercamaro

iTrader: (1)

droptop -was that set any good? i looked into that awhile back because i ended up missing screws.

91 Droptop

I have not opened the package yet, but they look nice, they are in individual packs labled, here is the link or just look under inerior hardware

http://www.camarocentral.com/product_p/int-228.htm

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys...heres a quick vid I added to my youtube series showing the gauge cluster all working and just a quick update on the car.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvJea_puMTA

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Finally got all the parts to redo my intercooler piping. I just wasn't happy with how it looked before and my MAF wasn't in the best spot from what my tuner told me. So heres version 2.0!

As you can see, it's mounted much lower now and hood clearence should not be an issue. Also, the MAF is right at the throttle body like how it is on a stock LS1, and the piping just looks a lot cleaner this way. The BOV will be mounted on the pipe right around where the overflow tank is. Just have to get the welder fired up since I got the BOV the other day!




Also ground down the welds on this charge pipe and made up the little bracket that holds it to the framerail. I'm VERY happy with how this one came out!


I also discovered a problem, and if ANYONE has any ideas, please post them up. My overflow nipple on the radiator is obviously not going to work with this pipe setup, and I'm not changing the piping because I'm happy with it. I can plug this port up, but then what the heck could I do to make it work? Is there a fitting I could use and drill another hole on the backside of this area maybe? JB weld? I'm drawing a blank!

91 zeee

Could you cut the nipple off shorter and put a JB Weld 'ring' at the opening (to simulate the factory opening ) and use a 90 degree brass fitting in the hose? I can see you dont have much room, hard to tell from the pics if you have room for what I am suggesting. (but if tehre is room, it would be a clean factory look and would not require much in the way of modifying the radiator)

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

That nipple off the radiator is basically touching the pipe...thats how much room I have LOL. I am considering trying something basically like what you said though. I'll trim down the nipple about half way and then try to put a 90* bend on it somehow, whether it's a plastic one or a rubber one. I really can't think of anything other than that. I'll check around some parts stores and see what I can come up with. Hopefully it works!

eseibel67

There's very little pressure on that overflow hose. I don't like the idea of cutting off the barb part off of the nipple, but you really don't have much choice. Cut just enough off so that it won't touch your intake pipe. Look through the rubber hose inventory at a BIG part store and look for one that has a premolded sharp 90* bend in it somewhere. You can look up hoses be dimension on the Dayco website:

http://www.accessdayco.com/Dimensional.aspx

Try part #86501. Doubt anyone will stock it, however since by application, it fits a 1988 Mazda.

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

How about if you cut it flush and thread it for a 90 degree brass fitting? It would work if there was enough thickness in the plastic around that area. If it is too thin, I wouldn't think you could thread a fitting onto it.

91 Droptop

You could go with an aluminum radiator and change its location

eseibel67

Easy answer when cost isn't a factor.

91 Droptop

Sorry, just a thought

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

This is exactly what I was going to try first. I'll have to check out that hose you recommended. I knew there really wasn't much pressure on that particular outlet, so I figured cutting off the barb wouldn't be too bad.

Only problem is that a brass fitting would protrude into the radiator cap area if I threaded it and the cap wouldn't seal properly. I did consider that, but it seems like it won't work.

Unfortunately I'm stuck with my stock style radiator because due to the close clearences of the turbo piping, a thicker aftermarket aluminum one would never fit. I made all the measurements and it's just outta the question.

91 zeee

i think you can 'remake' the barb fitting if you cut the nipple shorter. Might not be oem looking, but you will never see it.

SKELITOR117

iTrader: (3)

NOOICE.

SKELITOR117

iTrader: (3)

Noice caah mate.

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Had a little motivation tonight so I went down and got the BOV welded on. Have 1 more small piece of pipe to make for the intercooler and then were in business!

Also had a question for you guys. In your opinions, what color do you think I should get the piping powder coated? The choices are a silver hammertone, wrinkle black, plain silver, or a hammertone effect but with an orange clear overcoat that would be the same color as my car. I'm leaning towards a black wrinkle coating since it goes with my theme of orange and black. I didn't really care to make anything too flashy in the engine bay but I just wanted to hear your opinions. Anyways, heres a pic of the BOV.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

I like the way everything looks now so i vote one of the silvers to keep the same look. It would go well with your overflow tank and other silver in your engine bay. Looking really awesome! That thing going to be ready for the 2012 driving season?

Sutton

Looks great. I like to see builds on this level. You just don't see 3rd gen builds like this as offten, but then again it's big $$ to do this...I know!

Mike92Firebird

iTrader: (3)

I'd say make the piping black. That way it'll blend with all the couplings and look real clean and flush.

dctrouant1995

I'd say either silver to match the rest and the overflow tank, or black to match the tubing couplers

SKELITOR117

iTrader: (3)

One of the silvers def.

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

At this point I have no doubt it'll be ready for spring 2012! Just have to finish up the few minor things with the engine (fans, piping) and then mechanically it's good to go. It's just getting the body and interior back together which should be cake!

And as far as the color...I can't decide lol! I really like wrinkle black, but then I look at the engine bay, and the pipes do look good in silver too.

91 zeee

plain silver....looks really good now.

lunati397

I am a powdercoater I would do a chrome base copper candy over the chrome it would match your car very close and have the same effect in and out of sun and look like glass

1987CamaroZ28

I would go either silver or gloss black.

zrated383

Wrinkle black would look clean on the piping IMO, a nice near-factory look. It's nice seeing a car being done with an element of detail to everything, even non-visible things like the wiring harnesses, etc. Backyard builders...take note, these little things make your life so much easier once the project is complete but the maintenance side of things begins.

Topspeed

I agree with Lunati. It would blend right into and match the engine compartment. The build is looking great... Awesome job.

lunati397

you pay shipping and cost and ill do the parts for you too

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

I appreciate the offer. We do have 2 well known powder coaters in the area and thier pricing is excellent. I just dont know if I'd want to deal with shipping them and all the down time involved, so I'll most likely have them done locally. But again, thanks for the offer!

lunati397

just throwing it out there if you can take a sample piece to the coater and have a few coatings done on like a 5 by 5 piece of sheet metal and place them in there to see what you like best

zayne0

Are you running A/C on this car?