Robb Knight

I have an 89 Formula. When I first bought the car it had some plastic T-tops that were in horrible shape. They were cracked and leaking. I got a set of better plastic ones with all the rubber seals good and no cracks or leaking. Only thing is they are pretty scratched up. A friend of mines suggested that I buff out the scratches, but I heard that cant be buffed out of plastic. Does anyone know if they can be taken of or is their another technique that I can use. Also if they can be buffed off What do I need for the buffer (I already have a buffer, but never really used it.)? I'd rather have glass T-tops, but money is a little tight right now and that will have to wait. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Kevin84Z28

iTrader: (3)

If the scratches aren't too bad then yes, they can be removed. I use Brasso on all plastic pieces, watch crystals etc. There's also other brands such as Mother's and Maguires.

Iroctopless

I've used http://www.meguiars.com/?boat-plasti...Cleaner-Polish on my rear plastic vert window and it made quite an improvement. And for less then $6 and bit of elbow grease you have nothing to lose by trying. While this won't make it look like new, it should make the Lexan look better.

wildjeff

iTrader: (1)

Bit of elbow grease is right, I’ve used PlastX too and it works well for light scratches but it take some work. When I was restoring my cluster lens I just sat down in front of the TV and polished away. It turned out great.

okfoz

The tops are made from Acrylic better known as Plexiglas which is a Trade name of Arkema. You can polish out scratches, there are a lot of products out there that do so with good luck. One of the best ones that I have seen from a consumer standpoint is called "Scratch Off" Its a handy kit that all you need is a variable speed drill...

I am not trying to sell you anything but you can get it here http://www.glapinc.com/estore/index.php?cPath=633_631 . THe product is used for Aircraft windshields and windows which are primarily made from Acrylic (Plexiglas). Actually most products that are designed for polishing paint would be safe for the TOps as many automotive finishes use Acrylics.

Keep in mind that your tops were originally hard coated, the hard coating has its advantages and disadvantages. The biggest advantage is that it helps resist scratches and they are slightly more chemical resistant than most acrylics (you can get Chemical resistant acrylic but its about twice the price and it only comes in clear), the biggest down side is that the hard coat does not last as long as the Acrylic. Most Hard coats last about 8 to 10 years of exposure to the sun before they start to flake off. QUALITY Acrylic should last 15 years if well taken care of and maintained. You can actually have a piece of acrylic last upwards of 40 years with good service... if the car is stored in a garage and not driven often. The reason they hard coated them is for Car washes and obviously scratches.

I have considered making replacement Acrylic tops but never went anywhere with it, simply because Glass tops are so cheap and the amount of money I would have invested in each part would be greater than the payoff... I figured it out and with the grade of material I use I would have to charge about $150 per panel by the time I got done milling the edge, forming and trimming to size.

With all of that said you may have scratches OR you may have what is called Crazing. Scratches are self explanitory, they are imperfections on the surface. If you can feel them with your finger if you slide your hand across them then thats pretty severe and will requre some sanding. If you can feel them with your fingernail that too is bad enough to where you might have to use sand paper. If you can't feel them then you might be seeing crazing which is just below the surface or you can simply buff them out.

If you have crazing, you can usually tell by the reflections that you get when in sunlight they tend to glow and are almost impossible to see thru when looking in the direction of (not at) the sun. Since these are slightly below the surface you can sand down and polish them out. But like stated before crazing tends to be just below the surface (unless its severe). Cracks which are all the way thru are obviously out of the question as the only way to stop their spread is to stop drill them.

I hope that helps.

Iroctopless

Just curious. I thought it was Lexamar acrylic?

okfoz

Leximar is the company here in Michgan that made them for GM. Most people call Acrylic "Plexiglas" thus my comment. You are correct Leximar made the tops,

Acrylic is actually Methalmethacrolate AKA MMA...

John

90TA

The tops were made of Lexan (Polycarbonate or PC), rather than the Polymethyl methacrylate PMMA. 2 different polymers, but similar.

Iroctopless

Interesting info. Hope Robb Knight gets some decent results. Let us know how things turn out.

okfoz

Actually they are made from Acrylc. It is a common misconception because the name Leximar is very similar to Lexan (which is a trade name of GE). Lexan is a Polycarbonate and there has been a ton of bad information mostly based upon assumption in the area. The decal on the bottom side of the Tops clearly state "Acrylic"... Polycarbonate would have been a horrible choice as polycarb ages much more quickly than Acrylic and in a few years they woud be very foggy and more brittle than Acrylic. Usually about 10 years and Acrylic has Polycarb beat to heck for durability and longevity.

Robb Knight

Definaltely. Thanks guys. Im going to work on them this weekend. I'll take some before and after shots.