RocBoy

iTrader: (1)

I want to know what you guys have done to the wheelwells and underbody. Im currently working on my Iroc 85 and I want to touch up theys spots . I do not have a sandblaster and will be working on my back on the garage floor .The car is still all together (rear is out of car)and just want to clean and evan out the paint and undercoat .Will be using a wirewheel and brushes.
After I get the spots cleand up what do I do for paint and undercoat prep ,so it sticks and stays . Is thier any kind of cemical that will help. In the wheelwells I do not want to strip the hole thing just get the loose stuff off and give it a nice once over .What kind of paint and undercoat do you recomend . Has to be in a can I do not have a gun .Thanks

RPM WOT L 98

iTrader: (3)

I went through this with my Formula a few years ago. On my back in the garage. I used wire wheels ans wire brushes to clean and remove the loose undercoating and rust. Then I used 3M Rubberized undercoating on the body because it is actually black when dry as opposed to some cheaper brands that turn brown when dry. I also used 3 shades of Black spray paint (Gloss, Semi-Gloss,Flat) to refinish things such as LCAs, springs, PHB.

What I found was the best investment of time was a lot of masking. I wanted to avoid any and all overspray of undercoating on painted surfaces and vice-versa. That and new exhaust, some new hardware and the underneath of the car was worthy of awards.

You can use POR-15 if you have a big rust problem, but thats a more involved system.

Hope that helps,
Mark
RPM

smartman__007

iTrader: (1)

I did the same with my front and rear wheel wells and fender lips too. I drive my car in the winter somewhat because the lack of a beater car. I used duplicolor truckbed coating and a type of wire Roller Brush that gave the underbody paint somewhat of a texture. Two good coats and some white paint to touchup the fender lips and it looks awesome. No more noise and less chance of a rust out behind the quarter and fenders.

RocBoy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks .My car is very solid with a spot or 2 that needs to touch't up hear and thier ,(NO HOLES)befor it becomes a problem.I am doing this now because the car is up and Im installing UMI LCAs , panhard bar ,Tokico Hp's and springs all four corners . Subframe connectors when the UMI groupe purchase comes though .
I have a ? about painting the rear .I have spent a few hours cleaning the rust off , but I know I will never get it to bare metal . What do i use to clean the rear for paint prep . Brake cleaner paint thiner what ? help.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

I have a 91 Formula, no rust underneath, but it's not black like the rest of the car... I wanted some kind of protection, but POR 15, there's so many steps... while I heard many good things, I also heard some bad things... since I didn't want to do 15 steps, I went with Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator (for stopping / preventing rust) and their chassis black top coat. You still have to loosen remove any debris, wipe down with cleaner and brush on. I also used black plastic paint for the plastic fender liners....

I haven't put it on yet, I got it over Christmas and will be doing so in the next few weeks...

I just want it to be black under there, like it should be

Rafael

smartman__007

iTrader: (1)

I used brake cleaner and was careful about overspray.. I also put saturated a rag in touchy spots and wiped it down that way.

RPM WOT L 98

iTrader: (3)

POR 15 is actually simple and easy to use. It's a 3 step system, Degreaser, wash with water, Chemical etching spray, wash with water and then apply the paint itself (POR15) with a brush or srpay it. They have the paint in different colors and also different shades of black so you wouldn't have to topcoat it. If you want it black then that's all you need to do. I have used POR 15 for a few years now on a few projects and their product is excellent.
What I would do for the rear end is to remove all the loose rust, and go throught the POR15 steps. Just be careful around the diff cover because when this stuff dries it become "rock solid" if you get it around the cover flange it may be one hell of time removing the cover if you're doing anything in there.

Mark
RPM

RocBoy

iTrader: (1)

I went to the POR-15 web page and read up on some stuff . I think this is the route I will take ,For the under body .Im going tho buy the three things
Marien clean
Metal ready
Por-15 paint
I did not see a color listed for this (POR-15)but I belive it is black .Also the under body dose not see enough sunlight ,to have to put a top coat on right?.
As for the wheelwells Im going with the 3M under coat. The lips on the fenders will just be touchet up .The front of the car may be put off for next winter . I have a hell of a lot of work in front of me , for an after work prodject ,see how it goes.Thanks

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

The POR 15 comes in colors, black gloss, shiny, etc...

The UV was one of my concerns... no, the under carriage will not be in direct sunlight, but will UV bouncing off from the sides be enough to turn it brown? That's what the top coat is for, to stop the discoloration... which is why I'm making it black to begin with

Raf

RPM WOT L 98

iTrader: (3)

The three steps listed are the correct ones. I saw the POR 15 was avail in silver, and 3 shades of black! Even on the instruction page they use the silver one for demo purposes. The 3M is the best and I just masked off the fender lips REALLY well and had no overspray to cleanup.

You will need a topcoat primer I am pretty sure in order to topcoat POR 15. So check that out on the site if that's the way you're going!

Good luck!

Mark
RPM

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

No top coat primer, Chasis coat from POR 15 is all you need, they have a gloss and semi too. It's the top coat for por15

Rafael