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1992 25th anniversary Z28.One of a kind factory Purple manufactured in the U.S. Oringinal owner car has only 25000km (15625 miles).Never driven in snow or rain. Washed only 4 times in 14 years. Rust Proofed and looves from factory, Fully loaded, L98 engine 350 V8 automatic, Grey leather interior with factory bose system. All Oringinal babied car, Car has never been raced or tires spun. Must see to appreciate. Asking $17,500 US or best offer. P.S. No test pilots serious inquires only.

i took that off of a autotrader AD. i think 17K for any third gen is nuts. i bought my 89 RS 305 for 2,200. yeah my car has alot of miles but it has a newer engine. i wouldnt want a 16 year old car with 15K on it anyways, it will probably leak pretty bad once it gets driven some. the seals tend to dry up if it sits too long. it probably a nice car but no way is it worth 17K for such a common car. third gens are very common. i think that car is worth 8-10K max, but no more than that. that car probably sold for 18k when it was brand new. what do you guys think? i dont think third gens are worth that much, GM simply made too many of then for it to be worth that much. maybe if it was something like a Turbo Trans Am, firehawk, or a 1LE. but not an average z28. there has to be something really unique about it and not just the color of the car.

Codename 47

iTrader: (4)

It's worth what someone will pay for it.

itsjustme

I think I stumbled across that one too in my recent search... Looking for a 92 convertible... I almost fell out of my chair. but like was said It's worth what someone's willing to pay...
I've seen the range from $2500 to over 20K in various stages of repair. Saw one on Ebay that's not bad for about 5k but it's in New York and I'm in FL and thats a LONG way to go to check it out!!!

3.8TransAM

5 yrs ago.

91 GTA 17k, one owner car.

$6k

Had to fly to Salt Lake.

In the real world stuff wont be 2.5 times more valuable in 5 years :-)

later
Jeremy

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Two really good reasons to avoid this car like the plague. First, rust proofing either means it had holes drilled all over the car and chemicals sprayed inside, or black tar like goop sprayed all over the underside of the car. Possibly both. The goop looks like **** and the method that required drilling holes usually results in the car rusting out from the inside. Either way the car is basically ruined.

The louvers not only are dated but will scratch the hell out of the glass, if they haven't already.

a mack6

iTrader: (1)

The biggest problem regarding 1992 Camaros is that they are ALL labeled "25th Anniversary Editions". The only '92 Camaros that are really 'rare' or special (besides of course a B4C or 1LE) is the RPO Code Z03, or Heritage Edition Cars. These cars had nothing more than Heritage Stripes, a special emblem on the decklid, and usually different color emblems. They made about 8,000 Heritages in 1992 so they are by no means rare, but certain Heritage Combos (Such as a RS or Z28 Heritage Convertible, or a L98 Z28 Heritage, or even one of the rarer color combos--green/gold, purple/silver) much rarer.

Despite being only a $150 option from the factory, Heritage Cars demand nearly double the book value of their regular 1992 counterparts due to this exclusivity. Many people don't agree that they should be worth (According to NADA) double what other 92's are worth, however its almost undeniable that they're much more desirable.

If that car you showed was a Heritage Edition, that price would be somewhat justified. I still wouldn't expect the seller to get $17k, but $12-14k would definately not be out of the question for a very low mileage Heritage Z28 w/ L98.

rwdtech

i cant see how a car that is garaged its whole life and is never driven in the rain or snow is "ruined" from undercoating and must be rusting from the inside. lol you dont know what you are talking about, you are just jealous of the car

3.8TransAM

He actually speaks of very valid points.

Rust proofing is only as good as the person who does it.

Have u seen thirdgens or G bodies with doors rotted out half way up?

I can promise you they were rustproofed at some point. The dips who did it never bothered to clean all the drain holes and what you get it basically a fishbowl for a door :-)

Same thing applies to them coating frames/subframes, if drainage no longer exists.

Thats why they rot so high up......

It is nasty crap to get off also, it would detract from the value of the car. It wont hurt it alot, but definitely no longer original and a serious PIa to clean off.

later
Jeremy

92rs365hp

the only I will pay 17k or over for a camaro is when the 09 comes out I gave 3k for my 92 and now looking at one for 1500 but then again if someone does buy it and the seals are dried up and the motor goes bye bye then thats an expensive shell....

rwdtech

i'd rather have undercoating than no coating at all. ive never seen or used undercoat so thick that it would plug the holes in the subframes (although it can be done if you used MANY coats of it)

ive always noticed that uncoated 3rd gens have no floorpans they are so rusted, but undercoated cars are much cleaner and not near as rusty

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Well, technically the car was produced without undercoating. The bottom was left painted body color. When dealerships apply the rustproofing they spray that garbage on everything. Plastic inner fenders, suspension components, etc. It's just a big mess. Also, the process of drilling 1/2" holes in the sheetmetal to allow spraying chemical rust proofer inside the panels captures moisture between the coating and the sheetmetal which eventually eats the car from the inside out. Exposure isn't the problem, they're rusting from the inside out.

Take a good look at a really rusty thirdgen, note the paint bubbling up with rust underneath.

Thirdgens don't rust that badly, when you see one that's completely destroyed with rust you'll usually find black plastic plugs along the bottom of the doors, in the rocker panels, etc.

You're right, I probably have no idea what I'm talking about. I've only owned 10 thirdgens since 1995, I moderated this forum for 3 years, and wrote a considerable chunk of the tech data.

And I'm probably just jealous of an unweathered car, since I own a 50,000 mile 91 RS Convertible that's never seen any weather... and an 87 Iroc with 60,000 miles that's been garaged it's entire life...




Yep, you got me.

rwdtech

i still disagree with there being moisture "trapped" in the sheet metal. there was no moisture there to begin with. what is this magic moisture you are talking about?

coolram62

iTrader: (2)

If you live in a humid area moisture can form inside panels or when it rains the water gets into every little nook and cranny(especially any car with T-tops/Sunroof).If the rustproofing was overapplied as said it can plug up drain holes.It's as bad as someone not cleaning out leaves and dirt from inside fenders/doors.That's why the outer window seals are so important.

And Drew those are 2 beauties.But back to the original post.As said before the asking price is only high to those of us not willing to pay it.Sit down and think what you've put into your car in time and money.Granted that price is out of my league but how often do you see a real L98 '92 Z28.Special models like TTA,1LE,B4C,Firehawks are bring double plus that asking price.At least with 3rd Gens you can shop around to find what you want at the price you are willing to pay(sometimes you may have to travel a distance).

1982TA

iTrader: (1)

my '82 TA has had the rustproofing from Ziebart done in 1984. As stated above there are many holes throughout the body, inner door jambs, rear hatch, etc...and they all have plugs that say ziebart on them. I took apart my door panel to replace the window motor and it has all that black gunk along the bottom portion as well. It's not sticky or tacky, however some of it is peeling away. They also put plugs in the bottom of the door, so I know all about water getting trapped inside. I had an '86 Grand Prix that would fill with water when it rained. However on my Trans Am, there is NO rust whatsoever in the doors, or on the bottoms of the doors. If done properly it shouldn't be a problem. I mean, mine was done 22 years ago and like I said NO RUST on the bottoms of the doors or anywhere else for that matter. The only place there is rust is near the top of the windshield, and I think that may be from the windshield being replaced in '83 due to a stone chipping it. Even after all these years it is hardly noticeable .

As far as climate goes, I live in Ohio so it can be 20 degrees one day, and 60 degrees and sunny the next. It gets humid, it's rainy, and they salt our roads in the winter. Mind you I don't take the car out in the rain, it's always garaged, and I store it for winter. I've only had the car 2 years. I believe the car came to Ohio in '86, being a Texas car originally. I have every record from the date of purchase in '82 up until '94. I don't know the history from then up until I bought it...don't know how it was driven, in winter or rain. The underside is pretty clean, some surface rust, but doesn't look like it was undercoated. I wouldn't worry too much about the rust proofing. If the car is taken car of it will last.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

The 'magic moisture' is your creation. I'm talking about the natural presence of water in the air. And I didn't say it gets "trapped in the sheet metal", I said the spray in rust proofing, chemical process, "captures moisture between the coating and the sheetmetal". Which is my generalized hypothesis based on 5 dealership rust proofed vehicals I've had first hand knowledge of. If you're going to quote me, at least quote me accurately.

A 92 Z28 is a $3,000 car. I don't see a $14,000 price exception for mileage alone. The rest of the details he gives don't justify the price. For that matter, I spent less then $17,000 for the two above Camaro's, combined, and still had enough left over for my 91 Formula. And that was at 1999 prices off dealership lots. Or instead of that Formula I could have added my old 86 T/A, 84 Coupe, and 91 Firebird and had enough left over for a whole bucketload of hats.

If you punch all the details of the advertisement into the book value generator at www.kbb.com it says it's worth $4,125 in Excellent condition. I'll front it up to $3,000 more just to be fair and say the car in question is overpriced by $10,000.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

The same can be said about a car without rust proofing.

I'd say be precautious of rust on that car. You probably won't see any evidence of a problem until it's too late. The rust will start at the edges of the plugged holes and work their way out. Over time the rust will work it's way up the car. It'll rust out underneath the paint, bubbling up. When you go to scrape or wire brush the bubbling paint and rust off, in hopes of finding solid metal to start a repair usually you'll find the inner layers of sheet metal in rusty chunks inside the panel.

I just went through this with my 86 Mustang. It had surface rust in a few spots that should have been a give away, but the real damage wasn't evident till I started knocking on the rocker panels with a knuckle. Third tap and I had holes. This is on a 40,000 original mile body that hadn't been driven in 7 or more years. I don't have any really good before pics to show that the rust didn't look as bad before knocking holes in the paint, but you can see from the middle of the rocker panel that the damage isn't very evident. The entire panel is paper thin, basically just the paint still holding it together. I just haven't gotten to the body work yet. After the rockers I checked the floorpans. Rock hard till I knocked around the rust proofing rubber plugs.




The silver 86 T/A I junked a few years back had the same rust, and the same rust proofing. It looked good on the outside, but the sheetmetal was paper thin in spots, with only the paint holding it together. I wish I had taken some pics. I've also seen the same result on at least three other thirdgens and countless other 80's GM vehicals.

Rust proofing isn't a plus, it doesn't prevent rust. It might slow it down a bit, but it doesn't prevent it. It definitely shouldn't be used as a selling point for a car marketed to a collector market.

1982TA

iTrader: (1)

All I'm saying is that my car had it done 22 years ago, and there isn't any rust on the car. There isn't any rust behind the door, or at the bottom. The car has under 80,000 miles on it and I've seen newer cars in alot worse shape than mine. All it takes is a scratch in the paint in these areas for the metal underneath to start to rust. Plugged drain holes and worn out window seals will cause water to accumulate in the doors which isn't good either way. I'm not saying that rust proofing is good or bad, I'm just saying that my car had it done 22 years ago and it's held up.

rwdtech

i work on cars all day and i see ones with undercoating and ones without. just because you have owned multiple 3rd gens doesnt make your opinion 100% correct. most toyota's and honda's come undercoated and i rarely see rust on those cars. i do see plenty of rust on non-coated cars. Just like 1982TA said, if it is done right, undercoating is a plus. i will agree with Drew in that if its done wrong, it can be really bad for the car, but i still believe it can be a very good thing. i was originally disagreeing with you saying "Either way the car is basically ruined". how is a car that is stored all the time, never sees rain, hardly even sees pavement, and is undercoated "ruined"? You cant just generalize all undercoating as being bad for the car.

scottmoyer

Why can't some of you see that price as a easonable price? Take the car and try restoring it to new again. You won't be able to do it for that price. As for the 92 with 17k miles having all kinds of leaks, problems and such...I disagree. My car is 5 years older than a 92 and I have less that 14k miles. My car is undercoated with the old Rusty Jones beeswax style undercoating. There isn't a spec of rust on my car. I recently took the door panel off and the inside of the door was like new. My floor pans are like new. Granted, the undercoating looks nasty, but it served it purpose for 20 years. My car sees rain. I've driven the car from Minneapolis to Ann Arbor Michigan and got caught in a Chicago rain for hours. I have taken the car to Atlanta 3 times and have been in the rain every time. I moved to FL during a hurricane and was in the rain from south Indianapolis to Orlando. Anybody want to dispute the humidity and dew point in Orlando? Twenty years old and my car is a 996 of 1000 point show winner.

The right side shows the undercoating being removed. The left side is still coated.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

what happens is when you wash the car the water gets past the window seals and would normally drain but, tends to stand in spots (even if the factory drains are not all clogged up) notice a car that has doors that are just shot holes in them where you can watch the window regulator work- look and the window seal it will have chunks missing or all busted up, the under coating makes high and low spots that hold the water. once a light painted spot starts to rust it usually spreads to a point of no return years befor the owner even sees the rust showing. now I can say for sure I have seen plenty of cars rusted out to no end with out any rust proofing and same goes for with rust proofing. floor boards generally rust from water inside the car not under. (ever notice how the drivers floor usually goes first?) if they did the drill and plug undercoating then yes they did hurt some of the value.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

It's not a reasonable price to me, because for that price I can shop around and find a really nice as new car with all the options I want. It wasnt built with undercoating. I consider undercoating to be ugly and a potential problem. It's just one of those things on my pet peeve list, right next to factory louvers (my Iroc is a factory louver car and has the scratches to show they were there). I would much rather have a car with 30,000 miles that wasn't undercoated or rust-proofed, but was garaged and regularly maintained. Even then I sure wouldn't spend $17,000 on it.

a mack6

iTrader: (1)

Scott how do you keep a car that you do drive a near perfect (996/1000) show car?? I mean how do you avoid the typically things that start to show on even a immacuately maintained car (debris hitting the hood while driving,etc.)?? I mean im sure most people on this board would consider my car flawless...but i doubt it would score 996/1000 as a show car. it has a few minute paint chips and 3 or so dings, the black metal trim around the hatch is starting to oxidize, etc.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Is this car undercoated?

Anyway I like it, got it for $2600 w/89k, click on my garage for better photos. Definately felt like I had something to work with.

CDN_87IROC

I am in the 'idiot' catagory. I lived and Canada and had my '87 rustproofed.
Yes it is a messy oil based solution they use

92fbodylover

iTrader: (2)

not sure what the story is with that 92 but, I was offer 17k for my 92 about 3 years ago. It was at a super chevy show. My car had taken 1 for f-bodys and 2 for the show. That was right after the custom paint job and the interior was redone. And I only drive her in the summer. So it all up to want some one is will to pay for it. And no i did not take the 17k, I still have her.

scottmoyer

I've said it before and I'll say it now, I was offered $16k for my car 3 years ago at the FbodyGathering in Atlanta. The person gave me his business card and said to contact him if I decide to sell. Can I put the car on eBay and get $16k? Maybe, maybe not. But it was worth that to the collector that made me the offer.

okfoz

There are advantages and disadvantages to everything if it was a huge advantage, GM would have undercoated every car they made and created a huge marketing ploy out of the whole thing.

The Truth is Undercoating, done incorrectly can be a bad thing, like Drew stated, they can drill holes to get in those nooks and crannies, which ultimately shorten the ife of the car. My 87 Formula was undercoated but there are no holes to be found. It was a yellowish substance that felt like rubber, it came off with mineral spirits when I cleaned up my engine bay in 1998. As for rust, My car might have 115,000 miles but there is no rust to speak of. I have been through the entire car and it comes apart nicely. As for bing outside, it sat outside for 4 years in Anderson, Indiana before I bought it, it never moved, I looked at it almost every week during that time.

As for not undercoating. Many of the cars made in Norwood OH used a superior painting process which got paint into many of the corners where they usualy did not go. Its called the Turbo Bell, its not worht mentioning because there are several threads about it. The cars made in Van Nuys, california had a lousy paint from the factory, until probably the early 90's The paint peals, etc, The problem is they were using water based paints, and they do not hold up like the paints used in Norwood.

Another problem occurred is GM started using a sealer in the late 80's which helped with rust, But it was so expensive that blues, Whites, Silvers, Greens tended to peal because it was not UV stable, as the car would get baked, the UV rays could attack the sealer, if they would have used a thin coat of primer on top it would have eliminated the problem.

As for this car...

Purple Heritage Edition?
To my knowledge, and according to the dealer book the Heritage Edition on the Z28 was as follows: (according to the 92 Chevy dealer book)
Black / Red stripes (Coupe only)
Bright Red / Black Stripes
White / Red Stripes

If it is as stated one of a kind ZO3 Heritage edition Z28 painted Purple with stripes then I would say sure it could be worth it considering its probably one of very few.

John

1991Formula350

Back to thr original point, if you want to see a 3rd gen trans am, look at the 2007 barrett jackson search for cars listed, a black one, amn does that thing like like it lived in a garage it's whole life, itwill go cheap as these are not the cars people that go to those things look for. 2 hawks went dirt cheap 4 years ago, one was the comp package. Andy

rwdtech

why make a marketing ploy about something that other manufactures (such as toyota on all of their cars) have been doing for years..?

i think lack of undercoat is just another one of GM's cheap shortcuts. they couldve at least sprayed it with undercoat at the factory before anything got assembled to the bottom of the car

i got my car from Ohio, the car has been garaged over 90% of its life. the only time it wasnt garaged was in the first few months of my ownership. the floorpans had a lot of surface rust when i bought it. i was really pissed and worried when i found out just how bad it was. i dont think there would be any rust on my floorpans if it had just a basic undercoat like you see on toyotas or hondas. i did take care of the rust problems tho in case anyone is wondering, AND i undercoated the whole vehicle

RPOZ28

Hi all......I am amused by the rustproofing debate.I haven't had tons of third gens...............or tons of anything.BUT,I have had a Pontiac Astre(hold the abuse please),A 78 Trans Am,and a 1985 Mustang among others.I've had Rusty Jones,Dura Coat,Ziebart,etc.In my part of the country,where they pile the salt up at the intersections like snow drifts,if I'm going to buy a project car,I'll take a rustproofed car any day.The overall condition up here(and I emphasize UP HERE)is wayyyyyy better than an un-rustproofed car........I agree with Scott on that and the leaking issue..My car gets very limited use and never fails to run,stop and drive...no issues,no leaks.............depends on how it's kept!!....BILL

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Purple with silver stripes and green with gold stripes were offered as a midyear option, hence the reason they aren't in the printed materials. The same process is why the convertible Firebird isn't listed in the first round of dealer brochures for 1991.

I spent a couple hours the other day with the pressure washer blasting the cracked, flaking, nasty, tar-like undercoating off the engine bay surfaces in the Mustang. Obviously I didn't notice the car had been treated when I bought it, otherwise I probably would have left it sitting there. The sprayed on coating is just a nuisance and looks like crap, it's the holes drilled in the sheet metal that grind my gears. It's like a lot of other sensitive edges that are prone to paint chips and corrosion, except that the holes weren't part of the original car, they were drilled hap-hazardly by some technician who probably was making minimum wage. It's basically irreversible damage.

Also, the flaking, fading, paint didn't just magically end in 1992. Start watching late 90's GM cars and you'll start seeing the same familar issues. In the last week I spotted a 98-ish Grand Prix with the large white pasty patches, and a 94-95 Camaro with several large patches of missing clearcoat.

theirlaw

That purple Z28 has been for sale for at least 3 years. The owner has it listed on the US trader site but the car is actually in Canada (Brampton, ON).
I spoke with him briefly and he gave me the impression he is in no hurry to sell his car which definitely reflects in his price.

I think the car is overpriced but not by as much as you would think. Low mileage third gens with full options and in near new conditon rarely go up for sale in Canada. We are lucky if we have 50 different third gens to choose from across Canada each year compared to the hundreds available in the US market.

Here is a link to the Canadian auto trader listings: http://www.trader.ca/search/Results....ategory=&CAT=1
To convert kilometres to miles divide by 1.62 and to convert CAD to USD divide by 1.15.

Froste31

Wow, I just spent 15 miutes reading all the info and posts on this topic. I will have to add my two cents to this I guess. I have 3 3rd gens and have had 4 others that I have sold for well over 12-15k. First off a car is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it thats the real fact. I for one will pay well over ten for a car that is rare and something I want. But for that price I expect near perfect and low milage, options low production etc. The fact for me is that I dont drive the cars everyday, I want to show them and drive them on nice days so I think I look at it a little different.

I agree with some and now for a fact you cant get a third gen to near perfect status without spending a lot of money. I will and have spent hundreds of dollars for decals, and engine stickers to make it JUST like it is supposed to be. Yes I am a little extream but when I am done the cars speak for themselves with near perfect scores. Again this is how I choose to use my third gens. I greatly respect several of those on this board that drive them on a daily basis, thats what the cars were intended for. There are some bargins out there and sometimes people get into life changing problems that they need to sell their car. There are also some real low mileage cars out there for great prices, I like those the best.

As far as undercoating goes I have also had both and it can be good and bad it just depends on who and what was put on the car. I for one think 3rd Gens arent that great as far as how they were put together from GM. It was just the times and GM was pushing these cars out the door. I personally have a love-hate relationship with the STUFF. Its sticky, crap that is a pain and gets into places you dont want it. I was introduced to it 3 years ago when I got a car from Michigan that was a mess, however no rust which I like. Here in Oklahoma we didnt do all that just the bottom of the car so I was very unfamiliar with it. So everyone here has a valid point

I also wanted to add I dont post much here but have been a member for a long time. I LOVE the posts and opions from everyone. yea there are few boneheads out there, but there are some everywhere. I have met some of you at shows all over and made some great friends. I really love this site, and it is things like this that keeps it going. My heart is and always will be in the 3rd gens and I will be the first person to help someone in getting one back they way it should be. Thank you for this site and all the people that post.

okfoz

THe clear coat is sometimes washed off, I have seen that where a paint was literally washed off of a car.

The pealing paint as I described is where patches of paint will peal off, it seems to start close to corners but not always, Usually on the Top surfaces which are exposed to the sun.

GM to my knowledge has not changed their paint practices, except with some better paints as time goes on. One car I owned the paint had had a problem and it was repainted by a dealer under warrenty. The UV stablizers really help, but as stated before the problem is with the fact that they do not apply a UV stable primer. Becuase less pigment is needed on Green, Blue, Silver & White & purple cars, those are the colors that experience the paint pealing problems. It was not confined to GM either. Ford, Chrysler, Honda, Toyota & Nissan etc have all had similar problems off and on through the years.

John

1991Formula350

I had a white '91 Formula. under side was not sprayed and I keep it out of bad weather and mud, so it looked very good for it's age, it had no spray on. My current car has that spray on crap and I agree the under side looks like crap and inside the wheel wells are a mess too. I tried before to rub it off and use simply green and advance auto parts degreaser (which is great on wheels and engine cleaning) but nothing.

My white '91 back in 200 had that clear coat problem which started on the top above window and front driver fender with the bubble like appreance and then it spread so quick, it was like cancer to paint. I had to have the whole car repainted, which was worth it because it was so bright when finished. My red one does not have any signs so far, only my rear bumper cover has the paint faded, but no cancer to the paint so far. Andy

okfoz

Before a car show, I have taken the power washer to the inside of my wheel wells and cleaned it best I could, get all of the mud & dirt off. Then once it dried I would take some of the SEM Trim Black Paint and mask off my fenders and re-paint the inside fenders... On occasion some of the Factory undercoating has been worn off or washed away and I will take some of the black tar undercoating, and use that before the paint, once your done it looks Killer, especially on a Light colored car, like Yellow ...

The year I did that I won my class at the Nationals in Dayton.


The Whites, Silvers & Blue Hues will experience this more readily than the Red & Yellow because there is less pigment used to make Silver/Blue/White tints. Possibly because the colors are already Blue and UV is a shade of blue it may be more vonerable to not blocking as much sunlight UV... but not really sure on the science behind that statement.


John

okfoz

I forgot, there was a 1987 Red IROC convertible that got to $18,200.00... Apparently the purple Hertiage 92 Z28 is not out of reason for $17K
Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...1382767&rd=1,1

And some of you think these cars are not appreciating in value

rwdtech

didnt that car cost more than 18 grand back in 1987? i'd consider that a loss, buying a car brand new for over 18k then letting it sit and hardly driving it (only 4k miles since 1987....) then selling it for less than you got it for. Im pretty sure these cars will start to appreciate, but not yet. im not saying the car isnt worth 18,200 (i think its worth more), but im saying it didnt appreciate

now buying a 69 SS vert for 4k and selling it for $100K today is an excellent investment and return. too bad it takes that long though. you'd be better off with the stock market or some mutual fund

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

the metal is treated first now.

Asian import cars have a differant amount of iron in the steel they use which is why I bet they undercoat from day 1. not to mention the import undercoating is differant stuff than that oil/tar. (has more of a solid paint feel to it) and does not smear all over the place like mud on shoes

theirlaw

Somewhere along the line the info was misinterpreted because the purple haze 92 Z28 is not even a Heritage car.
If it were, could you really compare it to an 87 IROC convertible? How many Heritage cars were there or are those numbers not available?

I have to agree regarding third generation values. I spent several years looking for a replacement for my 88 IROC and I can honestly say the interest in the lower production cars has increased tenfold what it was when I started.

okfoz

Apparently the Purple and Green were added later as an option with the Heritage stripes and they did not publish the information. .. Drew made light of this earlier...

THe 87 Convertible had less than 263 sc's & 744 Z28s made, the Heritage there was 8,197 (WHite Book). THe Heritage is considered more of a Collector car from the get go even though it was more or less a decal option. Ultimately I think the 87 vert will be more valuable because its A) a ver and B) less were made. If it was a Heritage Vert then I would think the 92 Heritage vert would be worth more.

John

92camarorv6

ok i have a 92 Camaro RS green/gold Heritage Edition with a 3.4 v6 6speed
youe its ward and git this thats wuth it came for off the daler gold interear and green panit but thers a cach gold rs embuls and rims but the the car hadbin it some time in its life panted over and one rs bage is silver so i have inly seen 3 or 4 green one not green and gold thay had gray or black inte so whut do you thin my rs is wuth

okfoz

not to knock you, but learn to spell, I cant make out anything after the first line... could you translate for me?

sorry.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Translation:
"Yo, it's weird and get this, that's what it came from the dealer with, gold interior and green paint. BUT there's a catch, gold RS emblems and rims, has been, in some time in it's life, painted and one badge is silver. So, I have only seen 3 or 4 green ones, not with gold (interior), they had grey or black interiors, so what do you think my RS is worth?"

Sorry, don't mean to but in, but I have seen his posts in a couple of threads and somebody has even insisted he learned english/grammar. Don't know, perhaps they are a foriegner?

al8apex

HOW MUCH is a NICE 92 Heritage Edition L98 worth?

now assume it is NICE but NOT show condition

HOW MUCH $$$$ are you going to spend to get it in SHOW condition?

simple things like paint, weatherstrips, interior, dash, carpet, leather wheel, leather shift ****, yellowed puke tanks under the hood, hoses, clamps, etc

now add the numbers up

It is ALWAYS cheaper to buy the NICEST ORIGINAL car you can

IF you love purple and want a 92 with an L98, I think this is an ok price

Remember, cars are original only once, anything else ANYbody can make from any POS (replacing weatherstrips, quarters, floors, etc)

I would rather have a non POS car, but that is just me ...

mikeypss

Well I see no one wants to drop $17K on the car, but how many of you have spent $2K on a car and then dropped another $15k on mods and upgrades?

LeonardS

You may think that 17K is a crazy price for a 92 Z28 but it would take a "bunch" more than that to touch my car.

The "Last 92 Camaro"!!

Leonard

rwdtech

hey how is your car doing by the way? do you ever drive it? you should take more pictures of it and post them up on the boards

LeonardS

No, I have not driven it anymore. It still has 125 miles on it. Maybe when I retire I will have more driving time!!!

Leonard