plastic emblem/remove scratches
#1
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Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: SBC 400
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 2.77
plastic emblem/remove scratches
Just wondering if there is anyway to re finish the surface of a plastic emblem to remove scratches. I have 2 of the door panel emblems for my '82 TA, and the plastic top looks scratched. Is there any way you could buff these out? I know the actual finish underneath is fine, it's just the top that is scratched up.
Anyone have any ideas? I'd appreciate any and all input!
Anyone have any ideas? I'd appreciate any and all input!
#2
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There are a number of Plastic Polishes on the market. My preference is 3M Plastic Cleaner and Polish. It coming in 2 separate bottles and I've used it for a few years with great results. What I've learned is that you would use the cleaner as a "buffing compound" by hand buff it it with a terry cloth towel until it's all gone, buff of residue with a clean towel then use the polish in the same way and buff clean. Then I prefer to use some wax, my preference is Meguiar's Gold Glass. I have used this system on old lenses with excellent results and even saw some inpressive results on lenses that were new.
I know Murrays auto parts carries the 3M. Not sure who else does but there are other polishes for plastics out there.
Hope that helps.
Mark
RPM
I know Murrays auto parts carries the 3M. Not sure who else does but there are other polishes for plastics out there.
Hope that helps.
Mark
RPM
#3
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Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: SBC 400
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 2.77
thanks, I got the 3M plastic polish, didn't get the cleaner though. It worked pretty good, and is not as hazy, however some of the scratches are still visible...do I just keep buffing it to try and reduce them more? I'll post pics later.
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Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: SBC 400
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 2.77
so I take it the cleaner is a little bit more abrasive then huh? They didn't have the cleaner so I just picked up the polish. The emblems look a lot clearer, just still scratched. I'll try and find the cleaner...
#7
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Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: SBC 400
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 2.77
Well, I still couldn't find the 3M cleaner, so I got some Meguires plastic cleaner. They look a little better, but still have some noticeable scratches. Considering what they looked like before I even tried to remove the scratches, it's like night and day. I guess I'm a little too picky but since they don't make these, and these are the gold ones which are even harder to fine, I'll have to make do with them.
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#8
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
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Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
1982TA,
Since your a stickler, here is what you do...
Edit - I am assuming that these parts are a hard plastic, softer plastics are more difficult to work with. I am assuming the pieces are made of a plastic similar to plexiglas for harness, If they are soft then disregard my post - end edit.
1) get yourself some quality 3M wet-dry sand paper, I would recommend getting some 1500, 1000, and 800.
2) START with the 1500, and sand it down by hand using your fingers, a little spit does not hurt, or a bowl of water works too. Sand vigerously, make sure it does not get hot, you can actually bubble the surface if your not careful. if your a real stickler then take a small piece of wood like a paint stur stick and break it into a small 1" to 1.5" square, and use that to sand with...
3) Polish the surface again, Start with the coarser and end with the finer compounds. I would recommend using a 100% cotton cloth (old white T-shirt, old (clean) diaper etc). With the finer compound you can use the 100% cotton cloth again, or better yet get yourself a microfiber cloth at an auto parts store, they feel like terrycloth, then polish your part with that using the fine polish. (note usually you don't need to use a block for polishing at this point.)
3) wipe clean. If you still have scratches you can use a coarser sand paper like the 1000 grit and start over, then the 1500, and then the polish system..
I did my "Fuel Injection" Door handle decals like that and they are beautiful. Of course I used a power buffing wheel, you have to be very careful when using power though not to melt the surface.
Good luck and take your time... I woudl think it would take you about an hour from start to finish if you really take your time, but the results will be worth it.
JOhn
John
Since your a stickler, here is what you do...
Edit - I am assuming that these parts are a hard plastic, softer plastics are more difficult to work with. I am assuming the pieces are made of a plastic similar to plexiglas for harness, If they are soft then disregard my post - end edit.
1) get yourself some quality 3M wet-dry sand paper, I would recommend getting some 1500, 1000, and 800.
2) START with the 1500, and sand it down by hand using your fingers, a little spit does not hurt, or a bowl of water works too. Sand vigerously, make sure it does not get hot, you can actually bubble the surface if your not careful. if your a real stickler then take a small piece of wood like a paint stur stick and break it into a small 1" to 1.5" square, and use that to sand with...
3) Polish the surface again, Start with the coarser and end with the finer compounds. I would recommend using a 100% cotton cloth (old white T-shirt, old (clean) diaper etc). With the finer compound you can use the 100% cotton cloth again, or better yet get yourself a microfiber cloth at an auto parts store, they feel like terrycloth, then polish your part with that using the fine polish. (note usually you don't need to use a block for polishing at this point.)
3) wipe clean. If you still have scratches you can use a coarser sand paper like the 1000 grit and start over, then the 1500, and then the polish system..
I did my "Fuel Injection" Door handle decals like that and they are beautiful. Of course I used a power buffing wheel, you have to be very careful when using power though not to melt the surface.
Good luck and take your time... I woudl think it would take you about an hour from start to finish if you really take your time, but the results will be worth it.
JOhn
John
#10
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Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: SBC 400
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 2.77
thanks for the tips guys...I tried the wetsanding and it turned out great! I'd like to try it on my taillights also, but I have the '82-'84 style, so it would probably be a lot more time consuming and difficult since there are so many flat surfaces to go over.
#11
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Posts: 14,242
Received 170 Likes
on
125 Posts
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
John
#13
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Posts: 14,242
Received 170 Likes
on
125 Posts
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
Polishing will help, but because they are ribbed it will be like pushing a rope up hill..
Good luck
John
Good luck
John
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