okfoz

When I redo my second Formula I would like to put the correct Battery that was in it from the Factory, any idea what they looked like, or part numbers for the Delco?

John

cdartz

I doubt you would be able to find the exact battery that was used originally, and even if you could a battery that sat for that many years would be no good. Delco isn't going to make reproductions of older style batteries either. What would be considered correct as far as judging goes would be for you to simply use a current production Delco group 75 side post battery.

okfoz

I am going to the T/A nats here in a few weeks and I will ask (If I remember) if it s a big deal... Some of those guys are real picky about detail, and I want a perfect car. Or at least as close as I can get (A Sears Battery would not cut it I imagine)

I know they make reproductions of OLD batteries from the 50's & 60's, I think they "look" the same but internally there like a new one.

John

TAdan

John at the T/A Nats they recognize "stock style" replacement parts as stock. Therefore I think you would be OK with a current production side terminal Delco battery.

Because Delco was the OEM supplier/ battery type, I think it would be considered stock.

DJP87Z28

A/C Delco batteries have not changed in style or design since being used in 3rd Gen cars, So as stated by others a Delco side terminal is your best bet for a stock look.

Guest

They have changed.

I dont want to stick my neck out too far, but IIRC the lower half of the case was white (somewhat transparent) with a black lid and vent holes to both sides. I think the replacements at the time had a sticker on the side of the battery as well as the top, and the originals did not. The new Delco batteries have a different cap design and are all black. I'd say finding a suitable replacement would be difficult. The lids crack when you try to take them off, so if there were any out there that are in fair shape as far as appearance, it might be difficult at best to rebuild the battery to useable condition. You'd need to find a way to dissolve the glue they used without damaging the plastic case and lid. I have seen some nutballs in the past (in the Ford arena) who would drive the car to the show, and then replace the battery with a 'correct' battery that didnt work because it was so old.

I think the aftermarket wont start making repros of the original type until another 10-15 years roll by.

scottmoyer

John,
I thought the same thing. I spent over $300 to get my AC recharged with R12 so the fittings would still be original. I found out later that replacement items of like type and size are acceptable. GoodYear Eagle GTs aren't available anymore either, so judges will look for the original size VR rated tires or better. The battery should be a Delco battery with the same or replacement value CCA.

nick418

my car has 14k org miles and i dont even have the org battery

FrankieRider2

The battery on my 1988 GTA originally was a Delco Freedom II, and it was the aforementioned white bottomed battery with a black top and gray sticker on the topside. As far as I have been able to tell, only the replacement "blue" Delco batteries are available today.

Sometimes the Dayton folks can be real sticklers, especially if you know something they do not.... they tried to put my '88 Notchback in the Light Modified class once on account of the decklid.... but the rules state "stock-styled" replacement are acceptable.

So that new replacement Delco battery should be all right.

okfoz

I really thank you for all of your replies, the car will not be done for years, But I want to get all my poop in a group before I dive into it.

thanks

John

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I have a OEM battery in mine John...it is gutted though just come
by and take a look at it at the T/A nats.. it is white with a black top an a huge sticker on it....


We will be getting there Fri night and we are staying at tipp city ...i think i will have my hood on!!!!!

89_IROC_98U

My goodness. I thought I was the only one who would be this ****! You rock! I'm planning on doing the very same thing. Granted, my fittings and parts aren't original, but I'm going with NOS parts to rebuild the factory A/C system. My dealer still has an ample supply of R12, so hopefully there's some left in a year once I get the drivetrain back together. I realize that "replacement items of like type" may be acceptable but it still isn't "factory", and that's why I'm going back to R12.

Speaking of originality, did the '89 IROC have Gatorback tires?

- 89_IROC

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Wow.

New delco batteries are pretty close but they're the wrong colors, wrong labels, and they have pegs molded in for the carry handle.

I had two Delco Freedom batteries a few years ago. Both died eventually and got replaced. I've got one that's dead now that I haven't tossed yet. The only thing that's a little off about it is that the label is backwards... or maybe the top is backwards... regardless its just a little different but it has the same decal, etc. I'll snap a pic or two later if I remember.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

BTW, as far as R12 Vs R134A. Just use the early interdynamics kit that uses the screw on adapters... They don't have you remove the schrader valve. Just screw on the adapters, pump the system full of $4 a can 134A, unscrew the adapters, and enjoy ice cold a/c. Just don't have the a/c serviced at a shop without installing the retrofit adapters.

okfoz

Drew made a great point! about the 134A adapters, Its kind of like having a 305 and putting in a SBC 406 or 427, As long as it looks correct no one would be the wiser Its not like they will take a wiff od the freon and say "Hey!, this guy is using 134A.

My thread has been Hijacked bu Freon!

John

89_IROC_98U

Drew, would you mind detailing this a bit more for the cerebrally-challenged?

BWA HAH HAH! Incidentally, thanks for getting this thread started - otherwise, Drew probably would never have mentioned this A/C tip.

- 89_IROC

okfoz

Although I am not Drew,

R12 uses a schrader valve, very similar to ones on a car tire (matter of fact its exactly like the Fuel pressure release valve on TPI cars). It has a screw, cap, and valve inside that allow you to fill your car with Freon. This works pretty well, but when you screw on your tool usually there is a little loss of Freon (which is expensive and "harms the environment")

R134A uses a different style, and you can screw an adapter to your existing R12, to accept the R134A style fitting. The R134A style reminds me more of a Air line hose connector. Its much faster to connect and disconnect, therefore you have less loss of Freon.

hope that makes sence...

John

89_IROC_98U

John,

It makes sense...to a point; how would you do the R134A conversion and still keep the factory R12 look, though? I thought that's what Drew was referring to, and that's where I'm still a bit confused. Is R134A simply an adapter kit and "environmentally-friendly" refrigerant? The way I'm reading, it seems that you can attach the adapter, fill the existing system with R134A, remove the adapter, replace the Schrader valve cap, and still have a factory appearance. Did I go wrong somewhere? If that's the case, I'm definitely going that route instead of $300 for R12.

- 89_IROC

Guest

When I looked years ago, they sold adapter fittings for the R12 so you could use the R134a style fittings and therefore fill with R134a. Cant see why with the right fitting you wouldnt be able to just take off the fittings when done.

As said above, make sure the right people know there is R134a in there.

flrtin1

Here is a pic taken in 1986 of the original battery in my 85Z

MurcoRS

My '89 had the black/white Delco Freedom II that look exactly like the OEM replacements dealers use for warranties to this day. I think 1983 was the last year for the red white and blue labels.
***A little word of caution on recent Delco batteries...
Up until about 2 years ago they were hands-down some of the best batteries out there. Since then, every single Delco battery I have seen, OEM or professional series, has had the positive terminal leaking or it has completely corroded and fallen out at 1 to 2 years from purchase. I have called local contacts at dealers who have confirmed this is a continuing problem and some even have special containers they use to keep acid from spilling just for these batteries. It may only be a Florida-heat related problem so check around your area parts stores that sell alot of batteries.
You can imagine what a mess acid can make of your trays!!

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

no, we have the same problem up here in WI too. I work at a dealer so I do get very tired of seeing this problem (even worse when a idiot torques the FUC# out of the bolt so that the later corroded and over swollen cable comes off with the terminal now just short of welded on to the cable and no hex head to grab

oldschool

I've noticed on some of the 2004 GM cars the Delco batteries don't have the "green eye" built in hydrometer, but do have an insulator wrap.