Jason E

The rear wheels on my Formula look horrid...they've lost quite a bit of clearcoat, and have oxidized where the clear is missing. Any tips on what to do with these?? Can I hand sand and re-clear, or is it more work than that?? They don't have to be perfect right now...just better looking than they are!!

Chet

if I had a nickle everytime I'd see a 'polish my rim' question I would be rich.... Here is Chet's quick steps to polishing your rims:
1. Go buy some aircraft remover from autozone(to remove clearcoat)
2. Go buy some sand paper lots of it(there are lots of post about what grades to use)
3. Buy alot of beer
4. Take rims off car(aircraft remover does not hurt tires)
5. Sand each rim for about 3-5hrs progressively going up in sandpaper grades 400....650....ect.
6. Use mothers metal polish on each rim
7. re-clear each rim (optional)
That is it, its very easy but time consuming.

Jason E

Chet,

Thanks for the procedure...I had a feeling it was one of those "easy but time consuming" jobs. I don't mind...I only have 2 to do.

2 questions:

1) My friend has a rotary air compressor sander. Is it possible to use this, or is it going to be too hairy trying to use a rotary tool on a wheel?

2) How come the re-clear portion is optional?? Won't the wheels just get all crappy again even sooner with no clear on them?? Or would I just need to maintain them with metal polish?? I don't mind taking the extra step to clear them properly....just curious as to why this step isn't mandatory.

Thanks for your help!

Drew

iTrader: (58)

People are too quick to jump on the 'strip and polish' bandwagon. Take a good close look at the wheels, if the clearcoat isn't cracked, or flaking off the wheel, then you don't need to strip them.

The wheels are painted with a clearcoat. Its meant to be maintained the same as the paint, with a good wax. Fortunately the clearcoat is fairly durable. Treat it like oxidized paint and you'll be happy with the results.

On mine the wheels were stained brown, and the clearcoat was heavily oxidized. I tried 3 different over the counter wheel cleaners, with little success. Then I used WD40 and 000 steel wool. The steel wool removed the oxidized surface of the clearcoat, and the WD40 penetrated removing the white hazing. The WD40 also works as a solvent to remove the break dust. Since then I've had good luck cleaning the wheels once a year or so with Meguires cleaner wax, and with Mothers aluminum wheel polish.

Chet

Drew did you even read that.... you still think he's jump'n on the "bandwagon"??

Now back to Jason's questions.

1.I've never used an air sander, but if you do use one, go very slow, so you don't make deep grooves. I'm sure it would speed up things very nicly though.

2.Well you answered that question for yourself. Some people would rather just keep maintaining them(without a new clear). If you can reclear them than do it.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Just suggesting he make absolutely sure that the clearcoat is damaged beyond repair. Once the factory clear coat is removed its not something that can easily be reversed.

Pino91Formula

Once again Drew needs to be the all knowing, The Clear coat is all ways the first to go.

Jason E

My clear is way beyond repair...its flaking off pretty badly in some spots.

I have the air tools available to sandblast and re-clear...i will try that route. Thanks to all who have helped, and if anyone has any advice on what to do and, more importantly, what NOT to do when sandblasting wheels, I'd appreciate it.

MikeInAZ

My advice what not to do is sandblast. It sounds as if you aren't too critical on your polish job so I would do a touch up. Much like what Chet says.

If your wheels have not had all the casting marks (grooves) sanded out..... then sandblasting will emphasize these grooves and basically make a mess.

Personally I have tried the most expensive strippers made and I can't get them to do squat. I also think that GM must have used several different clear coats and I'm seem to get all the raunchy ones.

There is a major difference in buffing and polishing and it sounds as if you want the simpler.

The reason Chet says Clearcoat is an "option" is that chances are 100 in 100 that the clear will screw up on you. However it won't be as critical on a touch up polish job.



<A HREF="http://www.gmtips.com/3rd-degree/dox/tips/buff/wheels/wheels.htm">Polishing your Wheels</A>

Jason E

Mike,

What're these casting marks you're referring to?

MikeInAZ

On most of these third gen wheels you will find they have a satin or brushed type finish. When you get the clear coat off you will find they are not smooth.

To get a "high lustre" buffing job you will need to remove these marks or grooves by sanding. Of if you want to leave them satin like you can sand them in one direction and restore the brushed look.