LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

A few years ago I built a 406 roller engine that I put in a 88 T/A clone. I put it together and it smoked...bad. I checked everything, intake gaskets, intake, etc... After I took it apart I found out I put the 2nd piston ring upside down. Ooops. I took the engine out of the car with the intention of putting it back in. Lack of money prevented me from doing that. Now I have grown up some..I use that term loosely..and have a better job I am finally in a position to put the engine back together and in a different car.

The car is a 89 T/A that had a 305 TBI w/ 89,xxx miles. It has pretty much a full Spohn suspension on it. The engine thats going in it is a:

Engine:
406, stock crank, rebuilt 5.7 rods w/ ARP bolts, KB pistons 10:1 comp
288XR retro fit cam, 7.2 hardened pushrods, 1.6 Energizer Rockers
AFR 195 Eliminator heads
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Intake
Holley 750 Carb

Trans:
700R4 Trans w/ Transgo kit
Continental 9.5 in 2800 stall

Rear:
7.5 10 bolt 3.23 posi, welded tubes, T/A girdle (living on borrowed time)

Exhaust:
SLP 1 3/4 headers
Custom y pipe
4 in Mufflex w/ Flowmaster

The car ran a 7.8 @ 90.5 mph in the 1/8 miles on radial tires in the old car. At that time it had 220cc iron ProTopline heads and Hooker 1 3/4 LT's with 2.5 dual exhaust.

Now I am changing to AFR heads and the SLP headers. I am going to cut the flange off the SLP's and put a 2.5 or 3 in flange on it because the collectors are so small and then a 2.5 or 3 in y pipe into the mufflex.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

----------
I have all most everything out of the engine bay. I took the power booster and A/C box out. I am going to sand blast the engine bay and fix the horrible rust hole where the battery was....I am not quite for sure how I am going to do it. Any suggestions are appreciated.



After I fix the rust, mod the radiator support and repaint the engine bay. These are waiting to go in.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I wanted to make sure the car will run cool. My intentions are to keep the A/C. Every 500hp street car needs A/C right? I looked and searched for a radiator that would bolt in w/o modifications. There's been talk of a dual pass radiator that fits in the stock location but no one can seem to give a part number. I have several friends that own auto parts stores and no one could find it. In the previous car I had bought a griffin 31x19 radiator. It did a great job keeping the car cool but it leaned back to far. I didn't like the way it looked. After searching with no luck I couldn't take it anymore. I decided I was going to make the griffin radiator work. This is what it looks like with the stock radiator support.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I decided to take matters into my own hands and modify the radiator support. I cut the lower support out. I have Spohn's wonder bar on the car. After I cut the support out and there was nothing there. I was happy I had the wonder bar. I don't think the car would have moved any but the look of it was enough to scare me.



I tried to reuse the part I cut out but I didn't have any luck. Either the radiator wouldn't sit right in it or wouldn't line up right. I decided my best route would be to make a lower mount out of angle iron. That way the lower mount would be smooth and would be easier to work with.



I used 1/8 1x1 angle iron. I measured the piece I cut out and made it the same dimensions. My fiance, soon to be wife in 7 days, oh lord..wanted me to teach her how to weld. I have to say she did a really good job. After making the mount I cut 3/8 thick rubber mat to sit in the bottom of it for the radiator to sit on. This way I can move the radiator around some to get the top to fit.





I am actually happy with it. It looks like it's going to work the way I planned. Tomorrow I will grind the welds down and think about mounting it. With me using the the angle iron it's going to give me a place either bolt the fans to or make a bracket.

82firebird

Nice job dude, looks great! I'm about the same place in my project. Keep up the good work.

Shagwell

looking good. I wish there was some progress on mine....

Of course it needs a/c. Mine will be working, even with tt's pushing 1k hp.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Since the radiator is so much wider, i am going to have to move the condenser over but with the way the radiator is shaped it should work.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I worked on it tonight. I am really happy the way it turned out. The dual fan upper shroud will bolt up and the A/C condenser looks like it's going to fit too.

ws6gta89

Not only does your girl put up with your car "crap" as my girl says but she also wants to learn how to weld man you have it made now if you can just talk her into or umm "teach" her how to polish that griffin back to its former glory that would be great...good luck

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

She says she actually likes working on cars. She helped me put an engine in a S10 truck once. She was all excited.

I probably should have posted this thread in the engine swap forum. I don't know why I ended up putting it here. Mods, if you think it would be better there please move it.

Thanks.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I made a bracket for the A/C condenser this morning.




I cut out battery tray and replaced the metal in it. That took me a while. I haven't done much fabricating in the past. It's not Overhaulin, I can tell you that.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

It's been a while since I have posted. I have been off for about a month. I worked on the car last week and I hope to get the engine bay painted this week.

I finished the welding where the battery tray was.

The k member is out along with struts and front suspension.

I am selling the sportline kit and going with the pro kit. I am also changing the rear shocks from bilstein sports to HD's. The HD's are suppose to be firmer.

After I get the engine bay painted the k member will be ready to go in. Hopefully I can sell the sportline kit soon to help offset the pro kit.

Shagwell

looking good!

why did you decide to switch spring kits?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Because 1)I am going to use a 4in mufflex exhaust so I wanted to make sure I had ground clearence. 2)The rear was to soft. It was a combination of the soft rear springs and that I went with bistiens sports(which are softer than the HD's) The two together made the car hit the bump stops all the time. Basically I wanted the car to handle a lot better. If I didn't want to lower the car some I would have went with some 1LE springs around 750front 150 rear. Thats what Strano recommended anyway.

I figure with the sport kit and the HD's all around it should handle well enough. This car will be more about straight line anyway. I have a 2000 Firehawk I am putting Strano springs and Koni 4/4's on. I figure that car will handle better.

Also, if a Mod reads this, could you put this in the engine swap forum, I don't know why I put it here.

Shagwell

From what I've read on here, all the eibach kits are a bit soft. Most guys reccomend other brands for any sort of aggressive handling. I've been on a sportline kit w/ cheapy KYB fronts and monroe sensa-junk rears. I never pushed it overly hard cornering, but I bounced around town pretty hard. It also hooked well at the track and went straight, so I can't complain. - Your exhaust would make a difference though, as mine was very custom and fully tucked up.

CG_1985_Z28

lookin good man

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

This week I got the summit springs I ordered. I got the new rear shocks, got the engine bay taped up and primered, no color yet. I am trying to decide between painting it the body color or just paint it black.

"Deleted long ramble"

I tried to test fit the mufflex exhaust. Crap that thing is big. I got it used on the TGO board and came to me with the tail pipe and the pipe that goes over the axle welded to the muffler. Tonight I ended up cutting the welds off and grinding everything down so it can be adjusted to the car. That will be left to my exhaust guy to make that work.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I just checked and they do make the 210's with the 65cc chamber. They have 7/16 rocker arm studs though which means I will have to get new rocker arms too along with the headers. Dammit.

AdPerformance, which is ScatStroker, their webpage say they have the 1095 in stock. I don't know how often they update their stuff. And of course they are closed till the 7th so I can't find out monday.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I got the rear end suspension back together today. Tomorrow I hope I can spray the engine bay so I can start putting the front suspension back together.

Summit springs



Heater hose mod, to help lower the rear so it won't have the pro-kit rake.



Stock rear isolator



Engine bay

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Called AFR this morning. They told me to go with the 1040 head which is there street head. They said it will be enough for what I am running. I asked about the comp version and the tech guy said i would get another 15 hp or so out of it but it cost's $600 more. I figure that $600 could go towards a 9 inch rear so maybe I can try and hook up one day.

Painted the engine bay today. It was all I could do to make myself not to install the k member tonight.





I think I am going to go buy the new Call of Duty game to keep myself occupied tonight.

Jason

CG_1985_Z28

engine bay looks really clean! good job

Shagwell

progress is looking good. - That's gonna be a killer car.

I'm still months away from even being able to start on mine......and it's already been 3 years.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

You really need to make a CarDomain site with your build. From the looks of it you are building a T/A version of my car. Kinda strange. Mine is a kind of white too. Build looks great. Keep up the good work. Oh and I hear the Call of Duty game is great. Sold out when I tried to go get it. I am waiting for my dyno shop to be free so I can get a new cam and intake put on.

rocluvr0013

Congrats!!

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I was off by a day on the Call of duty game. It didn't come out till the next day. The game had pretty much sold out in town but went to a Gamespot that a guy I went to college worked at. He "found" a copy for me. The game is absolutely amazing. If you get a chance to play it or buy it do it. I also recomend BioShock. Thats a great game too.

Now the paint is dry I am going to put the k member and front suspension back in it so I can move it.

I don't know if I need to replace my steering box or not. I had quite a bit of slop in the wheel before I took it apart. I had new tie rod ends and idler arm on it before I took it apart.

The steering box and center link are original as far as I know.

Any thoughts?

Shagwell

have you tightened the set screw on the box? They have an end-play adjuster on top of the box, a set screw w/ a jamb nut. Use causes wear/clearance between the gears, the adjuster lets you tighten the tolerance back up. - As I said, tolerance. If you simply tighten it down, it will be overly tight, and the steering will be overly responsive and a bit draggy/catchy. I just set the "tolerance" by feel - snug it down a bit and drive it(I realize you can't currently do this), loosen/tighten till you get the feel you're comfortable with.

Kawtipping

I believe the proper tension is 14 in/lbs. So finger tight, not cranked on with a ratchet. A nut driver (or in this case the equivalent) is the best thing to use if you do not have a small torque wrench.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I will have to look into adjusting the gear box. Thank you for the info.

I got some done tonight. I am happy it's going back together.





I am going to take the front support brackets off and clean them and paint them. They look pretty bad next to the rest of the engine bay. I am going to replace the top strut bearings. I didn't check them when I took them off and they feel kinda rough. Hopefully someone will have them in stock in town but I doubt it.

I'm waiting for my heads to get here.

wesilva

iTrader: (35)

Thanks for the great pictures. There are a great reference.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I tell you what. I don't see how you get the springs in with spohns a arms. I did a search on it and it looks like you bolt the ball joint up, put the spring in then compress the spring and bolt the control arm bushings up. I did a search the other night and that seems like the only way to do it. I am going to try a spring compressor to see if that helps. I don't know if I can get it compressed enough or not. Without the engine in the car I think it's impossible.

jimmy92rs

iTrader: (3)

did u have to buy the k member with the built in front brace mounts so u can use the factory support braces?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

No they come as part of the k member. Spohn sells those braces. His website says that not every 3rd gen came with those brackets. Luckily mine did so I didn't have to buy them. I have repainted them gloss black and they look a lot better than they do in that pic.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Redraif had her tubular A-Arms fail on her, and it seemed like the concensus was that the aftermarket units aren't really properly engineered and may work great for track use but for street use the stock A-Arms, while not as stiff, will put up with a lot more abuse and handle potholes and bad roads much better. IE, a bad sudden jolt wont cause them to break.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...arm-broke.html



Obviously it's a big matter of debate, but I just felt like if it were me I'd like to at least know about it and make a decision as opposed to having my suspension fall apart on me down the road when I had no idea. These failures are obviously relatively rare, but most people who use them aren't using them on daily drivers either. Spohn are supposed to be the strongest around, so I'd bet you're in good shape, regardless.

Either way, the car looks spiffy, great job! Keep up the good work, it's fun to watch someone's project come together when yours is on hold.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Holy crap that's not good. Yes the Spohn's look beefier but anything can fail. I was looking at the K member and stuff in that thread and the k member in the box looked really flimsy. I mean there is nothing there. There's more on the Spohns, I hope it's enough. UMI makes a killer 4th gen K member for a DD or road race. I wish they made one for the 3rd gen.

jimmy92rs

iTrader: (3)

thanks jay, mine has those braces because it is a 92, but i think 86-92 have them , if i remember correctly.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Just wanted to give my 2 cents about K-members and DDing.

I have a Pro-Fab unit with Pro-Fab A-arms. I DD my car. Thats all i do with it. Its been OK for 3500 miles now and def not so great roads.

Heres a pic.



I am a mech engineer and def worry about things failing since I do that all the time at work. When i looked at the piece I kinda thought, eeegggghhh about a couple places. But after beating this thing up and checking the welds later, I have changed my mind. Still looks like new.

I got the set of member and a-arms off ebay for $575 shipped. Not a bad deal. This was all years before spohn and his stuff was even thought about. If I were to do it again today, i would go with his stuff. When i get out of school and build this car again, I may swap the parts, just to get that ulitmate look, but then again, if it works, it works.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Dennis,

Thanks for the info. Makes me feel a little bit better about things.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

It took me most of the morning but I finally got the front springs in. I rented a spring compressor from auto zone. It was a PITA but they are in. I bolted the ball joint to the spindle, compressed the hell out of the spring, put it on the control arm then used a floor jack to raise the control arm bushing side up. After I decided which way I was going to do it things went remotely easy.

I had mounted the radiator earlier this week and was figuring out how to mount the dual fans. When I put the wonder bar on today I found out it hit the lower part of the dual fans. If I want to use the wonder bar, which I do, I am going to have to make a custom upper mount for the radiator. I am not very good at those kind of things. I might be able to come up with something but it will look like ***.

I went ahead and bolted the sway bar on and ran into my first real snag. The sway bar end link on the passenger side is off. It looks like it will be fine once the suspension is loaded. The driver side looks a lot better.

Passenger side



Driver side



I have read that a few people have had problems with the sway bar mounts breaking. Why I don't know. If the car was on the ground and had weight on it I think it would be ok. I am going to email spohn just to make sure.

I put the wiring harness back in and put the headlights ons.



I ordered new upper strut mounts. Those damn things are 75 bucks a piece, thats 150 bucks, for those without a calculator For another 100 I can either get spohns upper mounts or hotparts mounts. I have another thread about them. I am still trying to decide if I need them or if I will get any benefit from them. I am worried that the driver side mount would interfere with the master cylinder. I have upgraded every other suspension part, why not one too right?

Shagwell

your sway bar links would be off by the same amount if you were to slide the bar towards the passenger's side a bit. - To me that angle does look excessive.
For your fan mount, how bad does in contact? You could cut the upper bolt hole off and rivet a piece af aluminum angle to the top side (basically flipping the bolt hole from pointed down to pointed up) thus moving them up a couple inches.

as far as redraif's a-arms failing - looks like a clean break. Since it appears to have broke w/o bending and directly at/close to the weld for the crossbrace, I would say it fialed due to an improper material/welding procedure. - Infernal, do you know if that was moly or mild steel? I'm guessing moly, as it tends to break instead of bend.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I thought about trying to center the sway bar but there is no way to move it that much. Hopefully spohn will have some insight.

As far as the fan mount. I am going to have to do something different. The upper mount which is the stock piece just pushes against the radiator to the frame. It's going to rub a hole in the radiator. Out of everything I am least sure about how I am going to do that. I have thought about trying to find some upper mounts from a 3/4 core radiator from a truck, but that leaves me to still mount the fans.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

This is what Spohn said

"The angle will change when you get the weight on the suspension.
Don't tighten the end links until you drop the car down. Also, loosen
the sway bar bushings and make sure your bar is centered side to
side at the same time."

I guess thats what I will do.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Thats exactly what I had to do with mine. I tried putting it on, then noticed the problem since I had no motor. I just took it off and put it back in the basement. No reason to have it in the way. After you get the motor, slap it on there.

The Project

iTrader: (6)

Nice job so far...........

Shagwell

yeah, but does that not mean when you jack the car up they will be bound to all hell? I guess probably not much(if any) worse than factory....

urmomshot77

Damn that looks ****in awesome man. I just got started into my project as well. A 427 Small Block build up. Im thinking very hard right now about replacing my entire suspension as well.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Yeah I thought the same thing actually. I guess I will find out.

urmomshot77,

a 427? Nice. Is it a motown block?

urmomshot77

Definatley a Motown block lol. I was lookin at their small blocks, and they can be safely bored upto a 454 small block and still retain a .250 inch cylinder wall, but theres no way i could get the compression down to as low as i would like. So i opted for the 427 block, which is SICK! Hoping to get about 550hp N/A, with a 9:1 compression. Then procharge about 10lbs of boost in it as well. Try to hit that 800hp mark! I want a biker killer!

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

Oh look what showed up today

urmomshot77

I think i just creamed in my pants! SEXY. Gotta love AFR. Which size heads did you go with? 210's?