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I'm trying to do a high performance build that works off the factory cowl induction setup that the early T/As had. However the filter setup that comes with it seems very inefficient, running straight into that lid. I'm thinking about modifying it to get rid of that lid and run one of those filters that has the element on the side and top. Looking for thoughts and suggestions. (Not my pictures, just examples)
Engine masters did a feature on filter lids. Might want to watch that before you go cutting
I thought of that episode too when I saw this.
But I wonder, if in this case, it might not be beneficial.
Correct me if I'm wrong: In the Engine Masters test, it's used as a topper on a substantial open element air cleaner, sort of like the example Steve posted above. In that test, if I recall correctly, they actually lost a few horses. The theory was that the introduction of air flow over the top colliding with that from the side created undesirable turbulence, and a loss of power.
But in this case, with just a single side snorkle, and the open top sealed to cool outside air, I wonder if it might not be beneficial in this case. I like what Steve is thinking, but you'd need a dyno session or flow bench to find out for sure I guess.
But I wonder, if in this case, it might not be beneficial.
Correct me if I'm wrong: In the Engine Masters test, it's used as a topper on a substantial open element air cleaner, sort of like the example Steve posted above. In that test, if I recall correctly, they actually lost a few horses. The theory was that the introduction of air flow over the top colliding with that from the side created undesirable turbulence, and a loss of power.
But in this case, with just a single side snorkle, and the open top sealed to cool outside air, I wonder if it might not be beneficial in this case. I like what Steve is thinking, but you'd need a dyno session or flow bench to find out for sure I guess.
Well I watched the episode and it gave me some things to think about, like that the drop base on this air cleaner might not be ideal, but thats just what I have to work with for this cowl system. On the other hand, this car needs 700-750 cmf max to do what im trying to do with it. It doesnt need to be a drag racer and I have what I generally want in mind. That engine masters episode made it clear that the filter lid does most of the work and thats how its gonna work on this setup anyway.
Inner lid helps block moisture and critters from getting in. Hard to tell at what point it's becoming a flow obstruction. How much hp are we talking here? Sub-400 I probably wouldn't worry about it.
Inner lid helps block moisture and critters from getting in. Hard to tell at what point it's becoming a flow obstruction. How much hp are we talking here? Sub-400 I probably wouldn't worry about it.
The cowl intake? airbox? whatever its called, has its own provisions for keeping water and such out. The obstruction is the filter top which can just be replaced with a filter element top. Horsepower will likely be around 400 but its the cfm im concerned about.
But I wonder, if in this case, it might not be beneficial.
Correct me if I'm wrong: In the Engine Masters test, it's used as a topper on a substantial open element air cleaner, sort of like the example Steve posted above. In that test, if I recall correctly, they actually lost a few horses. The theory was that the introduction of air flow over the top colliding with that from the side created undesirable turbulence, and a loss of power.
But in this case, with just a single side snorkle, and the open top sealed to cool outside air, I wonder if it might not be beneficial in this case. I like what Steve is thinking, but you'd need a dyno session or flow bench to find out for sure I guess.
Now mind you I haven't seen the test, BUT- These things need to be taken with a grain of salt, the problem is that out of the box carbs are tuned for the conditions that are expected, airflow going a certine way, typically straightened flow by going through a filter, a specific shape filter housing... and since they're simple mechanical devices if you change that you change the tune. You could end up with more airflow but it going over the boosters in a way that that raises or lowers AF ratio, maybe creating a vacuum over a bowl vent lowering pressure and fuel flow... so more airflow results in less power. If they did not retune after the change then the test means nothing. OTOH, if they tested airflow then the airflow is the result, not the power made.
Originally Posted by Stevus Crust
The cowl intake? airbox? whatever its called, has its own provisions for keeping water and such out. The obstruction is the filter top which can just be replaced with a filter element top. Horsepower will likely be around 400 but its the cfm im concerned about.
Compare the smallest cross-sectional area of that opening with the cross-section of the carburetor blades. If it's not significantly smaller it's likely not a restriction. I don't know about the carburated intakes but on the crossfire cars, that opening is MUCH MUCH larger than the area of the throttle bodies. I know that people had tried testing them with 2 filters stacked giving 2x the filter area and weren't able to show a flow or power increase.
This guy added the cowl set up to a TBI motor.
According to his butt dyno, it works well lol
I imagine an open element air filter like the one ion the second pic will suck in looots of hot air once the motor is hot.
Maybe you could find an open lement that fits like a stock filter INSIDE the stock assembly..... then you can remove the inner baffle. And have free flowing air.
Or maybe you could find one of those rare dual snorkel assemblies or make your own and utilize that?
its kinda hard to find stuff cause of how low the hood line is on these cars.
If you just cut out that inner lid / baffle thing with no provisions, you'll be sucking garbage straight into the carb / motor.
09-25-2021, 09:31 PM
