Yes, definitely go the extra 20 for the FX-R's. The minis in the H1 version are great but the D2S version with 50w ballasts are barely as bright as a factory 35w setup. Plus they have no distance to speak of.

The FX-R is not completely sealed but this is easily fixed with aluminum tape.

And lastly, D2S is only the bulb type. The wiring to the ballasts is the same wether you have H1 bulbs or D2S. The only H1 bulbs are aftermarket whereas with the D2S you can use OEM bulbs.

 

Would you say that your setup is pretty much safe from water/the elements?

 

At the moment it is not. I still need to go back and seal the projector with the aluminum tape and then seal the lid around the top where it meets the black shroud. Also I will put a strip on the back side of the projector where the D2S connector goes on the bulb just for piece of mind. After that it will be 100% safe for all weather conditions. Right now though it's just safe from rocks and such.

 

Ah I gotcha. Aluminum tape can work wonders. lol. Looking forward to some pics of how everything looks close up.
The plexi-glass looking stuff you used to mount the screws on, is it just the generic stuff you'd buy from Home Depot?

 

Yes it's Optix from Lowe's and I'm sure it's at Home Depot as well. I forgot to mention the only reason I used it was for mock up since it's so easy to cut. The back support should be made out of about 1/4" aluminum to get rid of all flex and bounce. The plexi isn't rigid enough and they have a noticeable bounce/vibration over bumps and rough spots in the road. The part the projector bolts to can be the plexi tho.

 

Ah thanks! I was wondering if that plexi was gunna be sturdy enough. Obviously it wouldnt be. lol. Did you drill any new holes or just use all existing ones to mount the plates?

 

I used all the existing holes from the pop up assembly. So it is completely bolt in, so to speak. If I ever wanted to go back to pop ups, it's just a matter of unbolting these and bolting the pop ups back in. Lol.

 

That's too badass! The only thing I'm having a hard time picturing is how low the projector sits so the entire light surface of the projector can shine through the small opening on the headlight cover trim.

How long are the screws you used between the two plates?

 

I used all-thread. I think they are about 5.5" long. And the bottom of the lens sits a little below the bumper surface but because of the aggressive foreground limiter built into the projectors, it does not affect the light output whatsoever.

 

That's really sweet. Just ordered a bunch of stuff, essentially everything besides the projectors. Can't wait to start mocking stuff up.

D2S Bulbs 6000K from DDM tuning, already had ballasts
AMP to D2S ballast adapter
H4 Bi-xenon harness

 

1/8 aluminum will be more than adequate to support the light. No need to use 1/4.

 

I'm not sure how happy you will be with the 6000k bulbs from DDM. The 5000k DDM bulbs I had at first were misaligned and output wasn't too great. Also the color temp will hurt the output some.

 

That's funny you'd say that because the bulbs I didn't actually order yet. I put them in a cart assuming I'd order them. Would you reccomend ordering some TRS? I see Morimoto sells a D2S for 45 dollars. I wonder if that's any good.

 

Yes they are very good. I bought a set of the 5five 5000k bulbs and was much happier with them over the DDM bulbs. The alignment was spot on with those. They are great budget bulbs.

 

After a brief bit of reading and doing some research, I'm sold on these - http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...oducts_id=1250

 

You will be happy with those. And if you're at all serious about output, don't go over 5000k color temp. That will get you pure white output without sacrificing lumens. Anything higher in color temp will have less output. 4300k has the most usable light output, which is why the OEM's use it.

 

I was aiming for a small hint of blue, almost what you see on new model BMWs. But even yours at 4300K looks blue at the cutoff line so now I'm thinking about a 5000K.

 

Well that blue comes from the cutoff shield, not the actual output color. The late model Mercedes, BMW, Audi, etc., all use 4300k. The shield is what produces that color.

 

That's insane! Would've never guessed it.

 

Haha yep that's the common misconception about projectors. Don't sweat it, at least you won't be making as many mistakes! Lol

 

Haha and I thought I knew alot about them... Well I'm sure I know more than the average Joe.

I can already tell that my biggest difficulty in the whole project will be mounting the projector sturdy enough so it doesnt wobble. OR you could make everything for me, considering we're using the same projectors, I'd pay you, and then they just bolt right in once you ship them my way. lol.

 

Haha, man I'd say yes but it's my luck that I'd mess up everything just a little bit lol plus I don't have too much time on my hands with having to get a full time job until next semester starts. Plus, you will be wayy more proud to show them off having made everything yourself

 

Haha, going to school? Me too. Trying to get a marketing degree. I also work 30 hours a week while being a full time student. Time is something I don't have. Lol. I like how you back out of making a set, real smooth. Lol. I do like the potential idea of having made it myself though!

 

I knew I was going to be asked at least once to make a set lol
I'm dual majoring in computer aided drafting and computer aided manufacturing.

 

You can't post something cool like this and not expect to have someone ask to have a set made. Lol. All I'd really want done is the two mounting plates with holes for the projector and such.
I used to love CAD but I had a really crappy professor which ended completely turning me off from it. Such a shame. I still dabble around with it for fun though.
Good luck with the major sir.

 

subscribing! would love to see the finished product when you get to it!

 

I have been noticing at night when driving at higher speeds the pass side housing isn't secure enough and sort of momentarily lifts and you can see it affects the output on the road. I'll have to see what I can do as far as making them more secure.

 

That's what I'd be most leary about, the projectors moving around when hitting bumps or driving at high speeds.

 

Well its not the projector moving, just the lid assembly. And it blocks some foreground light when it moves. I may have to rethink my mounting options.

 

I just took the whole day to get rid of squeaks and rattles in the interior. Replaced the DR side outer door handle, adjusted all four window stops for the up position, added washers to space the steering column down where it was into the gauge bezel making it squeak. Went thru the doors completely using silicon seal and rubber hose to remove any vibration and squeaks.

I'd say about 90% of all the squeaks and rattles are gone now and the doors are much easier to shut, I'd say due to the window stops being adjusted after 30 years of wear. Much more pleasant to drive and seems at least 15 years newer. Lol. Gonna go thru the dash and center console tomorrow and replace a lower control arm bushing that has caused a major noise in the back.

Sorry for putting off the pics but these rattle have been driving me CRAZY!

 

No worries man. I TOTALLY understand where you're coming for. I actually did the same thing a few months ago. Had an entire day dedicated to stopping some squeaks and rattles. It honestly seems like 90% of the problems went away for me. Makes me think GM could've done the same with a little preventative measure. I took so many panels off in my car, including the dash, went through em all and made repairs or tightened things better where necessary. Same with the doors, replace handles and add some sound deadening material and BAM. I'm lucky and my triangle seal on the window doesn't cause massive wind noise. I totally agree though, after doing this it just makes your car seem that much newer. Lol

 

Anybody wanna come help with my squeaks and rattles lol. I got alot of em

 

I believe I remember seeing a thread on the doors for rattles.

And man my drivers side triangle has wind noise and Idk how to get rid of it

 

Haha, it was no fun for me and took the good part of an entire day. So no thanks. lol

Ah man that sucks! I know the triangle can be replaced. To do so you've gotta take off the door panel and there are some bolts holding it on near the top right corner of your door. Or you could try replacing the weatherstripping aroung your door first, that could potentially help.

 

The car has brand new (well three years old now) weather stripping all over and it wasn't the super expensive stuff, which is probably the problem :/ I think it may need more adjusting/tweaking. I've played around with both sides yesterday when I adjusted the window stops and the noise on the pass side went away. The DR side starts complaining at 50 mph now instead of about 35-40. Lol

And today I replaced the bushing for the right rear lower control arm and the awful clunking noise in the back went away. Then I pulled the front wheels off and found the bad wheel bearing that was making the roaring noise that seemed to be in the rear of the car. (I checked my factory '82 GM shop manual and it says a roaring in the rear end is usually a front wheel bearing.) So, I'm going to eat my Wal-Mart pizza and then go do the bearings and call it a night. Lol

 

well its gonna take you a few hours unless you already have it apart, took me 4 hours to do it on mine, from tear apart to put back together. good luck though. make sure you have the right dust seal. learned that the hard way lol

 

Well it's done. All but one bearing looked and felt brand new. The one bad one was replaced. Roaring is still there. Would an adjustable pan hard bar with the solid spherical end and the nylon bushing at the other end cause this noise at the back? Do you guys have a roaring in the back of your cars?

 

That's literally EXACTLY how'd I'd describe it, a roaring. It almost sounds like moans, if that makes any sense. I'm not sure what it is. It doesn't affect my draveability at all though, just a very faint noise I can hear in the background. Noticed it since day 1 and never really thought much of it.

 

Hmm well your 92 may have more or better sound deadening from the factory because in my 82 it is loud. And has been from day one. It's had three different rear ends under it so I know that's not it. Lol

 

I've actually got an 89, but still. Lol. My first thought would be the rear. Obviously it's something else, who knows. And from what I've been hearing, it's louder the warmer the weather is. On these 30 degree nights I can't even hear it.

 

Well that sucks for me as it's only cold here about two or three months out of the whole year. Lol. And I assumed a 92 because of the name. I didn't read the side bar thing haha

 

Haha had a 92 v6 bird once. That thing was my grandma's, literally. Lol. I've since upgraded to an 89 GTA

 

I know this thread has gone a little off topic but hey, its mine so I don't mind. Lol.

How's that 89 run? Like what all have you done to it?

 

Haha it's your thread so it's all good. As long as you follow through eventually with pics of the projector setup! Lol

And to be honest, I love my car, and it runs amazingly well. Besides when the original 23 year old starter crapped out on me last month. Lol. The car just rolled over 119,500 last night. The motor was rebuilt with some performance goodies at 75k with things such as a ported throttle body. SVO blue top injectors. Ported runners. Corvette ported aluminum heads. And supposedly a ZZ4 cam. I find it precarious how the PO had receipts for everything besides the cam. In the last few thousand miles I started doing exhaust. It's got a full 3 inch catless exhaust into a dual chamber Flowmaster muffler. She's also running on a custom tune from some speed shop in North Carolina. The trans was totally rebuilt at 113,000 miles. With a stage two shift kit. This car breaks the tires loose so easily shifting through every gear. Suspension wise she's lowered about an inch with cut stock springs and sh*tty Monroe shocks. I plan on swapping that garbage out for some Eibachs and Konis. That's a majority of anything I'd wanna say right now, I think. Lol. If there's anything I left out just ask. I don't think little stuff like a cold air intake, which I have, is worth mentioning. Haha

 

Mine doesn't roar but it squeaks because of the busted shocks. And about the projectors, have you thought about gettin two low beams and 2 high beam projectors, mountin them low, high on each side, custom mounting them and then making the headlight housing only come up half way? like use a motor off of a 98-02 trans am? those housings don't go up far

 

Somethin like this:

 

or if you wanna do deletes, find somethin like these: they are for a nissan 240sx with pop ups, these are to delete them

 

I thought about something like this, but I wanted to retain a completely stock appearance with the lights off. And I'm not really a fan of the lazy eye mod.

I thought also about a quad projector setup with HID low and Halogen high, but bi-xenon is so much nicer on high beam.

 

Sounds like a quick little car. Lol.
Have you run a new Camaro 6.2? I've found I can pull away from our 2010 A6 at any speed. Haha and most of my major mods are in my sig.

 

So could you do quad bi-xenon? I agree with the lazy, but it was just a thought haha. Any details of the 24x conversion? I've been wantin to do that