New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Tim from Wyoming 82601

Hey everyone!

Inspired by my 383 LT1 swap, I am building a custom cold air intake system for the beast.

I'm seeing who would be interested in purchasing my custom designed aluminum true cold air intake system made for third gen Camaro TPI engines. The system will breathe cool air from OUTSIDE the engine bay, just like the stock intake, but it will flow through a cool air box and 3" or 3.5" aluminum tube and K & N cone filter that will be located on the driver's side battery tray.

I have mocked up a prototype kit, inspired by my 383 LT1 swap, and it isn't finished yet, but I will post up pics of the entire system, as soon as it is finished.

The kit will work on LT1/LS1 swapped third gens and TPI cars and I could probably make a kit for the 6 cylinder cars and TBI cars, too, down the road, depending on how much interest people show.

Here's the lowdown:

The kit will consist of:

-Low profile aluminum airbox that mounts snugly into the driver's side battery tray area, using three mounting points

-The box will have a 4" round inlet that goes down a few inches through the battery tray on the driver's side, hence cool air getting sucked in

-The box will have tubing welded so that the K & N filter will mount to the tubing inside the box, and the box-to-TB tubing will mount to the outside of the box.

-The box will have a sealed lid for easy access to the filter

-3" or 3.5" polished aluminum tubing for box-to-TB connection

-LT1 elbow (choice of aluminum or stock) or whatever elbow is needed for particular application

-All necessary couplings and clamps

-A battery tray template so you know exactly where to cut the square hole in the battery tray, for the 4" inlet tube

I may offer a powder or ceramic coating option, whichever one prefers.

I haven't figured out what the system will cost yet. It won't be overly cheap, but it should be reasonable for what you will be getting, and the system will both work well and look great!

The more interest I receive in these kits, the harder I will work on pricing and other details.

I am building my 3.5" cold air intake to feed a 500+ horsepower LT1.

Again, inspired by my 383 LT1 swap, I did not want to buy a ram air hood and airbox from Hawks for $850.00+, and the stock intake would be too restrictive, so this was my solution.

Let me know guys! I'll have my intake done probably within a few weeks, and I'll post pictures of it!

-Tim

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

sounds pretty cool, photos will definitely generate more interest. I know I'm hitting around $150 for my 4" silicone and aluminum kit so far, but that required trial and error; people will always pay extra for less headaches!

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

This is true.

My kit will bolt right in. I can't wait until it is finished, so I can mount it in the car and get some pictures of it.

All that will be required is cutting a square or round hole (whichever the person prefers but a square is easier) on the battery tray, and I will provide a template for that, and the template will only fit in the tray one way, due to the support bracket being in the way by the fender. Heck, I'll even put "this side up" and put arrows on the darn thing so people can't mess up tracing and cutting the hole.

My kit won't be cheap because the throttle body elbows are not cheap (especially the aluminum ones), but, at least, people will have everything they need, in one box, to do the install and have a high flowing cool air intake.

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

So no Firebird love?

I am relocating my bat to the stock driver location after having issues of where to mount the power steering res. I will def be interested if the kit looks good. I will just relocate the bat to the trunk. Here is how I have mine atm.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Oh yes and it would fit Firebirds, too. He he he. Oh crud I forgot about the coolant reservoir there. Mine is gone since I used a 4th gen reservoir and put it in the nose of my third gen.

My kit may still fit with that there.

I am betting that you could remove the coolant reservoir, slide the box down and in place, then put the reservoir back into place with no issues. I'll have to see.

Hmmmm Hmmmmm I am pretty sure my airbox would still fit in there. I'll have to find a reservoir and see the fitment of it with that in there.



BECAUSE.....here is what I ended up doing for my LT1 swap:

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Carlos, would you measure the space from the battery tray to the underside of the coolant reservoir for me?? That would be great!

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

I wouldnt be interested in a full kit... However, I would be interested in a sealed box for the driver's side battery tray area. I thought about making one myself, however I dont have the patience to figure it out and make it seal to the hood haha. So I put my filter below my battery tray...which resulted in my hydrolocked and busted motor.

So...this box, if it comes out good, has my attention...

J.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Here is the box I mocked up from foamboard. It will have a lid that seals and will allow access to the filter.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Cool.

Hey could you measure the space between the bottom of the washer reservoir and the battery tray for me? I no longer have that old reservoir in my car. If you could, that would be great!!

-Tim

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Will do in the morning. Just got home from work. Also I see you have the older sttyle wiper motor like me. How did you make it work with the 4th gen bottle since ours usses the sucking cap

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

I would measure but Ive long since ditched my thirdgen washer bottle in favor of the 4th gen version.

There are plenty of write ups on the 4th gen washer bottle install...but in a nut shell, to make the pump work, you just remove the stock 3rd gen pump, and wire the 4th gen pump to work. I used blade terminals and just inserted them up into the wiper motor housing where the old pump sat. Then I used some hot glue to secure and seal the wires and ran them out to the new pump. Pretty simple deal really. You could probably tap off of the wiring somewhere else, but this was the quick and easy way for me since I KNEW that the pump would get power when it needed it.

J.