2k hp capable street car build
#551
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Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
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Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
What fuel? What ignition? How much ignition timing?
#553
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Mallory Hyfire 6 (685 box), stock dizzy with new ignition module, and I think a upgraded hypertech coil (external mount 87-up style). 8mm wires, NGK BKRE8IX plugs at .026-.028, and right now it was running 33 deg at 6psi and 26 deg at 14-15 psi boost. Mid 11's air fuel. Timing seems very aggressive for 93 oct only but its working.
I'm gonna try a hotter coil and maybe new wires but first just gap the plugs alittle tighter
I'm gonna try a hotter coil and maybe new wires but first just gap the plugs alittle tighter
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
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Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
what shocks do u have on the rear
#555
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#556
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Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Mallory Hyfire 6 (685 box), stock dizzy with new ignition module, and I think a upgraded hypertech coil (external mount 87-up style). 8mm wires, NGK BKRE8IX plugs at .026-.028, and right now it was running 33 deg at 6psi and 26 deg at 14-15 psi boost. Mid 11's air fuel. Timing seems very aggressive for 93 oct only but its working.
I'm gonna try a hotter coil and maybe new wires but first just gap the plugs alittle tighter
I'm gonna try a hotter coil and maybe new wires but first just gap the plugs alittle tighter
I brought up timing because when using race fuels, if I did not run enough ignition timing, I would misfire at higher loads.
#557
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Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
I should have rolled the lip before I minitubbedthe car. When I rolled the lip it seems like the top was very easy but the front and back quarter panel would move when I tried to exert pressure with the tool. I wonder if I had attempted that before I minitubbed the car if I would've been more successful.
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Originally Posted by Andrew91GT
Are you sure you have enough valve spring? It sounds to me like a case of not enough ignition or not enough of Valvespring to control the valvetrain.
I brought up timing because when using race fuels, if I did not run enough ignition timing, I would misfire at higher loads.
I brought up timing because when using race fuels, if I did not run enough ignition timing, I would misfire at higher loads.
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Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
dammit lol the shocks on the back of my iroc look identical was hoping u knew what they were and if they had numbers on them so i could see if mine were the same
i cant find out any info on mine but i think they are 50/50 drag shocks lakewoods maybe, since my iroc came with some tubular control arms and other parts on it
i cant find out any info on mine but i think they are 50/50 drag shocks lakewoods maybe, since my iroc came with some tubular control arms and other parts on it
#560
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Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Just saw this. saw -1.05g using the chutes to stop from ~170 at TI. Third hit of the day on saturday was my last, we had a 20-30 mph crosswind and it woke me up to say the least when the chutes came out! I had one more race scheduled, but I was done.
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
I should have rolled the lip before I minitubbedthe car. When I rolled the lip it seems like the top was very easy but the front and back quarter panel would move when I tried to exert pressure with the tool. I wonder if I had attempted that before I minitubbed the car if I would've been more successful.
Ill go to the parts yard first..lol.. and try it
#562
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Great job! Makes my 200hp feel like a pedal car... but there's always more later!
#563
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Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Installed quik latch hood pins today, still using the stock hood latch too.
I want to paint them to match, I don't like the look though..... but having the hood stay closed is more important.
I want to paint them to match, I don't like the look though..... but having the hood stay closed is more important.
#564
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS/ 1992 Camaro z28
Engine: 383 Stroker/ ls3 e-rod
Transmission: borge warner t-56/ tremech t-56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.55/ dayna 44(viper) 3.07
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Wherd did you get those hood pins at and how much +shipping. Ill buy mine today. Also where did you mount the pin its self at on the core support? Mine is already painted so id hate to drill a new hole
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Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
I mounted the pins where the stock height adjusters go. No cutting involved to the core support. I centerpunched the location where the height adjusters had worn the stock paint away, and drilled from the underside... then used a 2" holesaw to make the holes.
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS/ 1992 Camaro z28
Engine: 383 Stroker/ ls3 e-rod
Transmission: borge warner t-56/ tremech t-56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.55/ dayna 44(viper) 3.07
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Those are sharp but just sucks that their is no way to lock them. Tradition style you can put a mini pad lock on them to keep thieves out.
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS/ 1992 Camaro z28
Engine: 383 Stroker/ ls3 e-rod
Transmission: borge warner t-56/ tremech t-56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.55/ dayna 44(viper) 3.07
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Too late. Done shaved the back side of my hood and shaved the hole for the cable to go through the firewall. Have to figure something else out
#569
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Car: 1990 formula
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
The FAST Efi has been taken off the car and sold.... a new EFI box with traction control and 16 injectors is coming soon!
Oh, new front wheels too.
Oh, new front wheels too.
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Got the new 18" RT-S fronts on. I plan to borrow a set of 18x12 RT-S rears with 345 MT radials, and if they hook I'm going to buy some matching rears for the street. If not, I'll keep the 15" RT-S rears on it.
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS/ 1992 Camaro z28
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Transmission: borge warner t-56/ tremech t-56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.55/ dayna 44(viper) 3.07
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
How much were those wheels. They look like the c5 wheels but deeper dish with a "double" lip
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Car: 88 iroc-z/28
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
id like to see a shot out of the garage, but im thinking the 18 and 15's are a mismatch, IMO.
#578
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
for sure they don't look as good as 18's all around, but at least they are the same style wheel.
#579
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
I'm planning on borrowing a buddy's 18x12 wheels with 345 MT radials on them, if they hook on the street on the gates I'll buy a matching set.
#580
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
My buddy ran 345 m&h and also 315 MT's on his 540whp ls7 z06. 6 spd it has dipped into 1.4's 60 ft but typically 1.5's. Another local kid with a mid 500whp stang and 5 spd went 1.5's 60 on 18" mickeys. They are good tires but you have loads more torque
Let me know how it goes. I have seen the 20" nt05r nitto drags go 1.6 60's in a super heavy mr norms stage 3 challenger. Car ran 130 mph traps with 6 spd. They arent as good as mickey i guess but they should be better than any street tire. Hard to get anything 17"+ to hook
Let me know how it goes. I have seen the 20" nt05r nitto drags go 1.6 60's in a super heavy mr norms stage 3 challenger. Car ran 130 mph traps with 6 spd. They arent as good as mickey i guess but they should be better than any street tire. Hard to get anything 17"+ to hook
#581
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Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
I've been working on installing the Holley Dominator EFI. It's more difficult than the FAST was, mostly because it takes a 'roll your own' approach and is much more versatile.
Here's the injector harnesses that I'm working on, I'm going to run 16 injectors in a staged configuration.... the harness that they sell for this is an unterminated universal harness. The first 8 injectors are run in sequential mode, and the last 8 are run in a 'paired' bank to bank mode with 2 injectors sharing an injector driver. Holley advised me to share drivers across banks, so I'm going to share 1 with 6, 2 and 8, 3 and 5, and 4 and 7.
8 primary drivers cut to length, pins crimped on and soldered.
ground side of connector inserted into primary injector driver connector. The power is shared, and required some more work to hook 4 wires to 1 and then to the connector.
Loom installed and ready to go!
Universal ignition harness. I'm using a magnetic crank trigger and cam sensor to tell the holley box which cylinder is #1.
Connectors attached, wires trimmed to length, and loom installed.
Universal harness they sent required some TLC, all of the wires weren't where I needed them to be so I had to take the tape and loom off, reroute them, and reinstall all of the tape and loom. Kind of a PITA.
Cut out the inner footbox on passenger side where the antenna passes through, installed a firewall grommet and ran the main harness, antenna, and my boost controller speed sensor through it.
Mounted the holley dominator efi box below the HVAC in the passenger footwell. I really wanted to hide the thing, but this box is BIG, and I feel that this is the best that I could do. Anyone else have suggestions for where to put it?
Here's the injector harnesses that I'm working on, I'm going to run 16 injectors in a staged configuration.... the harness that they sell for this is an unterminated universal harness. The first 8 injectors are run in sequential mode, and the last 8 are run in a 'paired' bank to bank mode with 2 injectors sharing an injector driver. Holley advised me to share drivers across banks, so I'm going to share 1 with 6, 2 and 8, 3 and 5, and 4 and 7.
8 primary drivers cut to length, pins crimped on and soldered.
ground side of connector inserted into primary injector driver connector. The power is shared, and required some more work to hook 4 wires to 1 and then to the connector.
Loom installed and ready to go!
Universal ignition harness. I'm using a magnetic crank trigger and cam sensor to tell the holley box which cylinder is #1.
Connectors attached, wires trimmed to length, and loom installed.
Universal harness they sent required some TLC, all of the wires weren't where I needed them to be so I had to take the tape and loom off, reroute them, and reinstall all of the tape and loom. Kind of a PITA.
Cut out the inner footbox on passenger side where the antenna passes through, installed a firewall grommet and ran the main harness, antenna, and my boost controller speed sensor through it.
Mounted the holley dominator efi box below the HVAC in the passenger footwell. I really wanted to hide the thing, but this box is BIG, and I feel that this is the best that I could do. Anyone else have suggestions for where to put it?
#582
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
And by some magical power this build got even better. Thank you for the pics and updates.
#583
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Forgot to post this, I ran some braided wire shield around the cam and crank sensors, grounded at one end to keep them noise free, and keep them from coupling noise into other sensors.
#585
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Car: 1990 formula
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Got rails, dummy injectors, and bungs from racepart solutions.
Got the car running with the 36# injectors, wanted to go do some driving. Car idles and cruises nice with the small injectors, I can see 15:1 A/F if I want to. It also runs out of injector at 4200 rpm and 5 psi of boost! lol
Got the car running with the 36# injectors, wanted to go do some driving. Car idles and cruises nice with the small injectors, I can see 15:1 A/F if I want to. It also runs out of injector at 4200 rpm and 5 psi of boost! lol
#586
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Car: 1990 formula
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
I need to buy/borrow some 18x12 RT-S wheels for a photo shoot....
One thing I found is that the center caps that came with the front wheels were not deep enough to clear the dust covers. Is this a common thing? What do people do that buy weld wheels? I bought the wheels sized so that I wouldn't need any spacers.
One thing I found is that the center caps that came with the front wheels were not deep enough to clear the dust covers. Is this a common thing? What do people do that buy weld wheels? I bought the wheels sized so that I wouldn't need any spacers.
#587
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Is that just elcheapo hose dress up braid for noise suppression? If so I like it, looks nice too. I just went sequential and actually am in the middle of wiring it. I have shielded wire on my crank and cam but these would dress it up a bit and serve a purpose.
As for your wheels i was looking at the Welds last year. They sell multiple BS and offsets. I bet the offset is wrong.
As for your wheels i was looking at the Welds last year. They sell multiple BS and offsets. I bet the offset is wrong.
#588
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Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
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Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Is that just elcheapo hose dress up braid for noise suppression? If so I like it, looks nice too. I just went sequential and actually am in the middle of wiring it. I have shielded wire on my crank and cam but these would dress it up a bit and serve a purpose.
As for your wheels i was looking at the Welds last year. They sell multiple BS and offsets. I bet the offset is wrong.
As for your wheels i was looking at the Welds last year. They sell multiple BS and offsets. I bet the offset is wrong.
I actually put the black loom around it to keep the braid from grounding at multiple points.
Last edited by Andrew91GT; 01-12-2013 at 08:22 AM.
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
I need to buy/borrow some 18x12 RT-S wheels for a photo shoot....
One thing I found is that the center caps that came with the front wheels were not deep enough to clear the dust covers. Is this a common thing? What do people do that buy weld wheels? I bought the wheels sized so that I wouldn't need any spacers.
One thing I found is that the center caps that came with the front wheels were not deep enough to clear the dust covers. Is this a common thing? What do people do that buy weld wheels? I bought the wheels sized so that I wouldn't need any spacers.
MAybe give weld a call and see if they have different caps avalible.
But, IMO it looks silly with the 18" front and 15" rear.
#590
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
My harness wires are shielded to begin with. I would use this more as a dress up than for actually shielding RF. I will only ground one end though. Thanks for the tip.
Cant you clearance (read, hammer time) your dust caps so the caps fit?
Cant you clearance (read, hammer time) your dust caps so the caps fit?
#591
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Car: 1990 formula
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
JB, Weld sells a centercap that is 1" deeper, I have a pair on order. I think they will work.
If the 18's will work with drag radials, I'll buy a set for the street, but I've already done the 18/19 with nitto DR on the 19's, and they were pretty useless. I'd rather have traction than look good.
#592
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Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Made some progress on the dual injector setup.
This shows the injector orientation... my big concern was that I might not have enough room for the electrical connectors... the inner cylinders on both sides are the places that will give me the problem if I'm going to have it.
We set the intake up on the mill, oriented it so that we were parallel with the existing fuel rail in the 'X' direction, and punched the holes for all the injector bungs. I got the bungs from racepart solutions, they were .748" or so in diameter. We cut .750" holes.
Cutting the rail to length and facing it on the mill.
We used the Ross Machine rails and machining tool to do the job. It made it super easy to do, and we ended up with a pretty nice result.
Here I am tapping the rail ends for 3/4-16 threads so I can use a -8AN fitting with an oring to seal.
Mocked up with the racepart solutions dummy injectors.
I welded most of the bungs, I couldn't get to the top of the inside of the bungs on the inner cylinders, so I'm farming that work out. Welding the cast was pretty difficult, there are a few beads I'm proud of, but overall it's not something I'm pleased with. Yeah, it'll work but it's not the most aesthetic job ever.
I also melted the inside of the bungs in a few spots (ID of the bung just barely started to sag) which will require some finish work. The end product will be acceptable though.
This shows the injector orientation... my big concern was that I might not have enough room for the electrical connectors... the inner cylinders on both sides are the places that will give me the problem if I'm going to have it.
We set the intake up on the mill, oriented it so that we were parallel with the existing fuel rail in the 'X' direction, and punched the holes for all the injector bungs. I got the bungs from racepart solutions, they were .748" or so in diameter. We cut .750" holes.
Cutting the rail to length and facing it on the mill.
We used the Ross Machine rails and machining tool to do the job. It made it super easy to do, and we ended up with a pretty nice result.
Here I am tapping the rail ends for 3/4-16 threads so I can use a -8AN fitting with an oring to seal.
Mocked up with the racepart solutions dummy injectors.
I welded most of the bungs, I couldn't get to the top of the inside of the bungs on the inner cylinders, so I'm farming that work out. Welding the cast was pretty difficult, there are a few beads I'm proud of, but overall it's not something I'm pleased with. Yeah, it'll work but it's not the most aesthetic job ever.
I also melted the inside of the bungs in a few spots (ID of the bung just barely started to sag) which will require some finish work. The end product will be acceptable though.
#593
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
I used 1" round stock for my bungs. I didnt know anyone made dummy injectors. My thought was to drill and tap for like 1/4-20 and use a piece of flat bar to keep everything in line while welding. I was also worried I'd melt the bung too. I am certainly going to wait to final drill mine when they are all welded up. After yours melting.
Here's mine.
I drilled mine upside down and used the digi read out to make notes of where the centers were. That way when I did my rails I would know right where the centers are.
Here's where I left off with the bungs faced and center drilled. Good job on yours, I love that 1920's Bridgeport vise. Really, its cool. Not trying to jack your thread with my pics, yours just reminded me.
Here's mine.
I drilled mine upside down and used the digi read out to make notes of where the centers were. That way when I did my rails I would know right where the centers are.
Here's where I left off with the bungs faced and center drilled. Good job on yours, I love that 1920's Bridgeport vise. Really, its cool. Not trying to jack your thread with my pics, yours just reminded me.
#594
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Very nice looking 77nomad!
I got one hold rail held down now... used 1/8" x .5" flat steel bar, cut such that final dimensions after a 90 degree bend were 1.3" x .6".
I tapped the rail and intake for 10-32, used stainless buttonhead screws to hold it down.
As you can see, I'm going to need to notch the rail for electrical connector clearance. Then it's polish time, followed by anodizing.
I got one hold rail held down now... used 1/8" x .5" flat steel bar, cut such that final dimensions after a 90 degree bend were 1.3" x .6".
I tapped the rail and intake for 10-32, used stainless buttonhead screws to hold it down.
As you can see, I'm going to need to notch the rail for electrical connector clearance. Then it's polish time, followed by anodizing.
#595
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
I would like to see before and after on the insides of the runners. I left enough on mine to blend into the runner and keep the injector tip just barely in the stream. I like the cutter you used for the rail. My brother in law makes carbide cutters for a living. All kinds of custom cutter really. Not standard sizes. If I can give him dimensions I could use that to make my bungs in one cut. Lastly did you weld the bungs inside the runners too?
#596
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Re: 2k hp capable street car build
lookks great. I love this build...
I did my own Vic. jr years ago also for a turbo build.
Make my own bungs. etc.. Did like 77man did. I set em down in the runners a little for when I ported and smoothed everything out.
I wasnt going for looks at all. So dont mind the welds
I did my own Vic. jr years ago also for a turbo build.
Make my own bungs. etc.. Did like 77man did. I set em down in the runners a little for when I ported and smoothed everything out.
I wasnt going for looks at all. So dont mind the welds
#598
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Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
I would like to see before and after on the insides of the runners. I left enough on mine to blend into the runner and keep the injector tip just barely in the stream. I like the cutter you used for the rail. My brother in law makes carbide cutters for a living. All kinds of custom cutter really. Not standard sizes. If I can give him dimensions I could use that to make my bungs in one cut. Lastly did you weld the bungs inside the runners too?
Got the rails all polished up and they're off getting hard anodized now.
I'm lucky I saw this, split in the beltdrive belt... got a belt service kit on the way.
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Murphy, TX
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Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
I hope this will be enough fuel for now....