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I am not proud of this. I’ve burned through at least 10 dremel cutting wheels, and I’m tired of grinding on my poor Trans Am. I wanted to line up the 4th gen battery hold-down bolt hole with the stock one. I went with Camaromac24’s positioning of the coolant tank. The fill neck was not cooperating, though. Test fitting the tank was a bear. So, I severed the fillet neck towards the bottom. Positioning the tank became a lot easier after that. I was able to properly seat the tank with just a little more grinding on the car. Too make the filler neck do what I want, I went to Lowe’s. I test fit the filler neck with various pvc pipes. The flexible coupling tube for sink plumbing fit snug over the filler neck. I painted it black, and I attached it to the tank with PVC cement. I’ve moved a few LSX relays, and this project should finally be done soon. Again, I’m not proud of this. Fitment became too complex, and I had to switch to ghetto tactics. The shame is almost too much.
The new connection passed the leak test! I noticed some leftover permatex gasket maker in my garage from a past T56 project. Should I apply some to the coolant tank mod for good measure? I’ve come this far, why not?!! Conventional and orthodox are in the rear view mirror.
I did a test fitment, and it went well. I’ll have to grind a bit on the 4th gen tray. I want it to drop fully into the 3rd gen battery slot. I’m also going to clean up the wiring in that area as there are too many wires near the coolant fill cap. I have 3 relays for my radiator fans which was a part of my LS swap. I also have a rather large fuse for my stereo amp.
Ive seen bigger hacks, not too bad. Why didnt you trim down OE filler neck and install it on the lowes piece.
Thanks! I still may do that with the OE filler neck. The threads on the flexible coupling and 45 degree coupling match the OE cap. My plan as of now is to keep the gluing to a minimum.
Now that the holidays are over, I’m finishing the 4th gen coolant tank mod. Finally! I cleaned up the wiring for my LS fan relays. It was a tight fit, but I positioned the tank where I wanted it. The bolt to secure the battery lines up perfectly with the stock position. I used 3 metal screws to secure the tank/battery tray to the frame, and I recessed those screws into the tray. I used a thin narrow strip of aluminum sheet metal and a zip tie to secure the nozzle. The flexible nozzle was long enough, so I didn’t need to add another fitting.
could you please email me you template! my email address is automakr3@msn.com i wanna relocate my coolant tank as well as my window washer tank! thanks
Old thread, but my contribution.
Fusion 360 wasn't able to open that template file, so I made my own template.
3-4 sheets of paper and some wire got me there.
After you cut the hole, the 4th gen overflow weights about 6 oz more than the 3rd gen overflow.
Worth it for the room and aesthetics.
Not an easy hole to cut nicely. A Dremel and a carbide cutter works well for that last 1/8in removal. Haven't installed mounting bolts yet. Will install some Rive nuts when I get further along. Coated in Zolatone 20 textured paint. Before clear coat.
I got mine finished last night as I havnt been able to work on my car for a few months now. Its done and looks pretty good I must say and now theres tons of room under the hood
There's no cutting through the body. The only thing you cut is the battery tray and even that, you're only cutting a (vaguely) triangle in the sheet metal. The tray is thick and won't flex at all.
03-24-2020, 08:07 PM
